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Posted

I caved and bought a VF-25 model today. I've never built a model before, American or Japanese. I can read Japanese ok, how difficult do you guys think this is gonna be? Never used waterslide decals before either, am I in for a disaster?

Posted

Never done waterslide? I'd go with the stickers. And if you've NEVER done a model at all, I'd get a cheap Gundam or something first to experiment on.

If nothing else, try to do a decent amount of "internal" parts first to get a feel for cutting the parts off, etc. (since the nosecone is the very first thing built, and will be fairly obvious if you do a bad job--that is NOT a piece you want for one of the first times you ever remove a part from the sprue)

As for reading Japanese---can't hurt, but frankly won't help much---almost all model kit instructions are pretty much like Lego instructions----just follow the pictures. :) ::edit:: Well, if it's your first kit it'll help by explaining the symbols they use.

Posted

well now I am hesitant to build my vf-25 alto when I know that the super will be coming out. The super is what I want most. Maybe I will build this non-super with a non canon scheme. Maybe even apply those minmei guard decals I have on to it. That is even more work though. hmmmmmm.....

Very excited about this whole line too. Definitely need the vajra kit and the luca if they do super version.

Posted (edited)
Urgh, according to the website, those decals ("Deculture Edition") will only be given to those who buy alto's VF-25 at the show. Darn, so wanted the ranka decals for my Monster!

Well if someone could get a clean scan of them, you could make your own.

Or at least get a copy from someone who can make their own.

I'd really like to have a copy too.... not that I have a Monster, though..... :(

Edit: Although, I did just realize that they have some white on about half of them, and most printers don't print white...

Edited by CosmicSpore
Posted

Fot those like myself that are not skilled modellers, I'd definitely recomend the stickers. They look good and stick very well.

Graham

Posted

Speechless... I was like... 5 minutes with my mind blank after seeing the three variants of the VF25. I would have content if Bandai just release Alto and Ozma VF25... Speechless... It's official, I'm throwing away my other plastic model collection for the Macross F plamo!

Posted (edited)

You know what? I should have waited for the Alto Super packs, but somehow, the urge to get the bare VF-25 was too much for me to resist *slaps himself*. Thank goodness I'm skipping the bare Ozma VF for the fully armored one... I hope. *resist....resist...*

Anyway, some comparison shot between the 1/72 VF-25(unfinished, will put the decals later once I get myself a gundam marker or two) and Yamato's 1/60 YF-19(no decals for I'm scared of tearing them. Damn water decals):

post-5089-1224239070_thumb.jpg

Can a Bandai stand hold a Yamato 1/60? Just curious.

EDIT for better image.

Edited by MangledMess
Posted

I was watching the last episode and realized that I had totally forgotten that Alto also goes Full Armor. It would make sense that if Bandai decides to make the Ozma Full Armor they will also do this one - and include Michel's sniper rifle as well :D

Speaking of which, Michel's sniper rifle does not seem to be able to transform... -just yet- I hope.

th_Macross_Frontier_058.jpgth_Macross_Frontier_062.jpgth_VF-25G_045.jpg

Posted

Definitely planning to purchase 2 Ozma versions, 2 Michel's ones and Luca's one.

Already got one Alto.

I think about a special version of paint.

I will post some pics. :lol:

Posted

Looks like being patient and waiting to order is paying off! Good stuff coming soon (not that I predicted that or anything ^_^ ) - MT

Posted
Speaking of which, Michel's sniper rifle does not seem to be able to transform... -just yet- I hope.

It's only a mock up like the head and super parts.

Posted
It's only a mock up like the head and super parts.

yeah, you'll also notice that the lenses on the head are just painted on,

it looks like for the Michel and Luca versions they took a couple alto kits painted them the appropriate colors and stuck on Resin parts unique to that model.

Posted
yeah, you'll also notice that the lenses on the head are just painted on,

it looks like for the Michel and Luca versions they took a couple alto kits painted them the appropriate colors and stuck on Resin parts unique to that model.

Yeah, but at least we know they are working on them and they aren't scrapping the model line. I still can't wait for these!!!!

Posted

I started building the VF-25 and it's going ok so far. The visor for the Battroid head is clear and not green? WTH! Or did I get a defect?

Posted

I found this on Toysdaily. Is this the 1/72 Vajra that was shown a few months ago?

aj026.jpg

Posted
I found this on Toysdaily. Is this the 1/72 Vajra that was shown a few months ago?

yep, pics showed up here a couple of day's ago. it's just a 3D print only painted now, and the tag by it says "sale unconfirmed"

but there's hope, and it looks awesome.

Posted

Gah, I just noticed something:

Going by the pics at M3 and checking with the anime, every VF-25 has different color feet. I would take that as meaning they are PAINTED, and not merely "bare heat-burnished metal". However, they are all in the "possible jet engine exhaust hues" category. Alto's is brownish, Ozma's is dark steel grey, Michaels is medium grey, Luca's is light grey.

So I'm wondering if painting the engine nozzles metallic, might actually be quite wrong. (Basic "olive drab" paint is darn close to the molded color in the Alto kit)

However---the Super and Armor pack booster nozzles of all 4 valks seem to match Alto's feet. I doubt the booster nozzles are painted, but then why are the battroid feet of Ozma etc so clearly a different color than Alto's? And why don't Ozma's booster nozzles match his valk's nozzles?

And of course--why have Alto's feet a "weird" color, and not red or black or something, if they're painted? But then even if they are "bare metal"--why are they so different from the other 3 -25's?

Posted
Gah, I just noticed something:

Going by the pics at M3 and checking with the anime, every VF-25 has different color feet. I would take that as meaning they are PAINTED, and not merely "bare heat-burnished metal". However, they are all in the "possible jet engine exhaust hues" category. Alto's is brownish, Ozma's is dark steel grey, Michaels is medium grey, Luca's is light grey.

So I'm wondering if painting the engine nozzles metallic, might actually be quite wrong. (Basic "olive drab" paint is darn close to the molded color in the Alto kit)

However---the Super and Armor pack booster nozzles of all 4 valks seem to match Alto's feet. I doubt the booster nozzles are painted, but then why are the battroid feet of Ozma etc so clearly a different color than Alto's? And why don't Ozma's booster nozzles match his valk's nozzles?

And of course--why have Alto's feet a "weird" color, and not red or black or something, if they're painted? But then even if they are "bare metal"--why are they so different from the other 3 -25's?

Could that not be explained as the nozzles simply them being at different stages of oxidation/heat discoloration? A slightly different material used depending on the particular variant's needs? I wouldn't look too deeply into it, it's just anime.

Posted
Yeah, but Alto goes through several different (yet identically painted) valks in the series... :)

perhaps they have a slightly different engine variant for each model.

Posted (edited)

Never mind, didn't notice those pics were posted as I don't come to the model section that often.

Edited by Sumdumgai
Posted

Since the super pack was previewed, I have this funky idea:

I'll use tiny magnets inside the valk and the add-on parts instead of letting pegs or slots do their work. Now, the problem lies in using a base VF-25F/VF-25S to deal with this. As you can see with the leg armor, they transform snugly without the armor and with the armor. Problem is translating this to model kit form. Does it seem like there has to really be made a gap (by method of a saw) in that concave corner that joins the sides and rear of the legs?

Note, I plan to do the magnet attachments for the armored and super packs.

Posted
Note, I plan to do the magnet attachments for the armored and super packs.

Why not, Yamato did it on the VF-0 series and others have done it on other Hasegawa and Bandai models.

The little rare earth magnets are perfect for the job.

Posted

I was just on that site, do any of those magnets fit the kit now for the legs or if even possible the wings since the have a problem staying locked in fighter mode? if so i am going to buy some for my kit before it gets here

Posted

I bought myself a can of Mr Top Coat and practiced spraying it on a sacrificial Wing Gundam before i try it on the VF-25F. It is Flat/Matte. I'm not sure if this is the best one to use. It definately makes plastic look abit frosty(?) making it lose its "plasticky toy" effect. Prettty nice after application. I'm just wondering if i should leave clear parts (the visor and canopy) from being top coated cuz it does seem to make transparents parts (as shown by Wing Gundam's core thing) become a bit frosty.

Posted
I bought myself a can of Mr Top Coat and practiced spraying it on a sacrificial Wing Gundam before i try it on the VF-25F. It is Flat/Matte. I'm not sure if this is the best one to use. It definately makes plastic look abit frosty(?) making it lose its "plasticky toy" effect. Prettty nice after application. I'm just wondering if i should leave clear parts (the visor and canopy) from being top coated cuz it does seem to make transparents parts (as shown by Wing Gundam's core thing) become a bit frosty.

The clear parts will become dull when that is applied. Put some masking tape over these areas will prevent them from looking like frost on glass. ^_^

Posted
The clear parts will become dull when that is applied. Put some masking tape over these areas will prevent them from looking like frost on glass. ^_^

Ahhh...noted. Thanks ron. ;)

Posted

Easier to just not apply the clear parts, then spray. Versus masking them. The whole thing's snap-fit, so it's not a problem attaching parts later or slightly out of order.

PS--I just decaled the 'red triangle on the crotch plate'---anyone gotten this to fit perfectly? I'm up to my "atomic bomb of decal set" and it's still not matching up/conforming quite right at the corners. It actually doesn't seem to be quite the right shape/size in the first place--slightly oversized, and the "curved" upper section shouldn't be IMHO. I considered inking that marking on myself, but figured I'd give the decal a try. (I doubt the sticker would work well at all really--90 degree bends only 1mm thick?)

PPS to anyone decaling---the decals do seem to be "typical Japanese" in that they respond very well to hot water, and not so well to decal set. However, they do respond to decal set better than "previous generation Hasegawa" decals--anything from 2002 or earlier or so.

Posted
Easier to just not apply the clear parts, then spray. Versus masking them. The whole thing's snap-fit, so it's not a problem attaching parts later or slightly out of order.

PS--I just decaled the 'red triangle on the crotch plate'---anyone gotten this to fit perfectly? I'm up to my "atomic bomb of decal set" and it's still not matching up/conforming quite right at the corners. It actually doesn't seem to be quite the right shape/size in the first place--slightly oversized, and the "curved" upper section shouldn't be IMHO. I considered inking that marking on myself, but figured I'd give the decal a try. (I doubt the sticker would work well at all really--90 degree bends only 1mm thick?)

PPS to anyone decaling---the decals do seem to be "typical Japanese" in that they respond very well to hot water, and not so well to decal set. However, they do respond to decal set better than "previous generation Hasegawa" decals--anything from 2002 or earlier or so.

I just want to make sure, you're using a decal set like Micro Set, right?

maybe you should consider using an actual Decal softener, a little bit of that will make a decal conform to almost any shape.

Posted

I have 4 decal "fluids", in order of strength:

Micro-Set

Micro-Sol

Solvaset

Champ

Champ is "the atomic bomb of decal set". It is FAR stronger than Micro-Sol when it comes to melting/conforming. Solvaset and Champ are both "1-step" solutions, that do what Micro Set and Sol do, together. But I generally only use them "if needed" as they can literally melt weaker decals into puddles of goo. And both are stronger than anything Microscale makes. If anyone has a close-up pic, I'd like to see how well they did with theirs. (I can only find close-up pics of stickers)

The problem is simply the shape--no decal wants to make a 90-degree bend around a curved raised triangle. It's basically your standard "black dot on an airplane nosecone done as a circle decal" situation, just flattened out a bit.

Posted
if you need some tips on masking, try browsing the buld-ups in this gallery:

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/F18F/photo_frame.htm

Thanks for the link. I am interested in day 11.

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/F18F/day11.htm

It shows the guy trying to remove a seam line from the canopy where he sanded it down which makes it look all scratched up, then he applied some ceramic compound thing and it looks brand new! Wow...like magic. What does the ceramic compound do? I'm asking cuz my canopy is abit screwed due to paint thinner melting the plastic abit.

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