Bandai 1/72 Scale Macross Frontier Plastic Models

[TCracker]

Just got mine yesterday and I have mixed feelings over the kit, here goes:-

The good

1) Standard plamo stuffs, easy to build

2) Instructions a cinch to understand

3) Quite faithful reproduction of the 3D model, except for the parts that you needed to swap during transformation

4) Fighter mode is absolutely beautiful

5) Gerwalk is manageable, functional and decently poseable

6) Battriod, not bad. Standard gunpla articulation. Elbows are double jointed, knees are

"kinda" double jointed and shitloads of swivel joints all over. No waist swivel tho, due to the tranformation design. If you are looking for extreme articulation, stick with Revoltech if Kaiyodo ever makes a Revoltech VF-25 (which I think would be a blast:D)

7) Insane amount of panel lines! Good for detail junkies like me (your mileage may vary)

2 sets of stickers (waterslide and stickers) - good option for kit builders depending on your comfort level

9) Hinges on the wings/tailfins and fuselage is hold together with metal rods, which is nice.

Now, the BAD

1) Excellent display piece, but the fighter mode reminds me too much of Yamato's VF-0S, ie a flip flop mess

2) Parts tend to pop off when tf-ing it. Especially the hinges on the hips and the kneecaps (the white cover and the dark grey interior, don't glue the swivel joint, else you cannot TF him anymore). I say, glue the mofo.

3) Feels flimsy in certain areas, the neck brace, the legs covers (white plastic covers) like to, again, pop out

4) The retracting/detracting joint on the ankle point tends to, again, POP out!

5) Some plastic parts are very thin and fragile, so when you cut them from the runner, please exercise caution.

Overall, a nice kit and quite faithful to the animation model. I have been doing Gunpla for decades and in terms of engineering, I give it a thumbs up.

Out of the 3 modes, the fighter mode don't hold together too well but Gerwalk and Battriod is ace in terms of durability. However in terms of looks, the fighter mode is the best.

Amount of time taken to assemble : 3 hours

Panel lining: 5 hours....totally harsh, man.....even the wheel covers have internal panel lines!

Decaling : In Progress

I will post up pics when it is all done...

Cheers,

Tcracker

Edited September 28, 2008 by TCracker

[CosmicSpore]

The Ozma kit I guess is slated to be released in Nov. I have a preorder of the 1/60 and I found one online vendor that carrys the Alto 1/72 kit.

Does anyone have any reccomendations for an online vendor that carry's the 1/72 model kit currrently and would carry the Ozma as well when put on preorder?

Again, I'm pretty new to Macross toy collecting. Any suggestions would be welcome.

I haven't seen any site offering preorders for the Ozma kit.

I think everyone realized that the kits are ultra-popular and they don't really need to take pre-orders.

That's just my guess.

Maybe I just missed them, but I would think some sites would offer pre-orders soon since the kit should be out in 2 months.

Has anyone heard anything about the other two (?) models' releases after Ozma? I'm really looking forward to those two. Even though I definitely won't have the cash if I get the Alto... man, am I in a predicament...

Edited September 28, 2008 by CosmicSpore

[miriya]

Just got mine yesterday and I have mixed feelings over the kit, here goes:-

The good

1) Standard plamo stuffs, easy to build

2) Instructions a cinch to understand

3) Quite faithful reproduction of the 3D model, except for the parts that you needed to swap during transformation

4) Fighter mode is absolutely beautiful

5) Gerwalk is manageable, functional and decently poseable

6) Battriod, not bad. Standard gunpla articulation. Elbows are double jointed, knees are

"kinda" double jointed and shitloads of swivel joints all over. No waist swivel tho, due to the tranformation design. If you are looking for extreme articulation, stick with Revoltech if Kaiyodo ever makes a Revoltech VF-25 (which I think would be a blast:D)

7) Insane amount of panel lines! Good for detail junkies like me (your mileage may vary)

2 sets of stickers (waterslide and stickers) - good option for kit builders depending on your comfort level

9) Hinges on the wings/tailfins and fuselage is hold together with metal rods, which is nice.

Now, the BAD

1) Excellent display piece, but the fighter mode reminds me too much of Yamato's VF-0S, ie a flip flop mess

2) Parts tend to pop off when tf-ing it. Especially the hinges on the hips and the kneecaps (the white cover and the dark grey interior, don't glue the swivel joint, else you cannot TF him anymore). I say, glue the mofo.

3) Feels flimsy in certain areas, the neck brace, the legs covers (white plastic covers) like to, again, pop out

4) The retracting/detracting joint on the ankle point tends to, again, POP out!

5) Some plastic parts are very thin and fragile, so when you cut them from the runner, please exercise caution.

Overall, a nice kit and quite faithful to the animation model. I have been doing Gunpla for decades and in terms of engineering, I give it a thumbs up.

Out of the 3 modes, the fighter mode don't hold together too well but Gerwalk and Battriod is ace in terms of durability. However in terms of looks, the fighter mode is the best.

Amount of time taken to assemble : 3 hours

Panel lining: 5 hours....totally harsh, man.....even the wheel covers have internal panel lines!

Decaling : In Progress

I will post up pics when it is all done...

Cheers,

Tcracker

Wow! Thanks for that review. Very helpful. Very fast. I am so nervous about making this thing.

[azrael]

Now, the BAD

1) Excellent display piece, but the fighter mode reminds me too much of Yamato's VF-0S, ie a flip flop mess

2) Parts tend to pop off when tf-ing it. Especially the hinges on the hips and the kneecaps (the white cover and the dark grey interior, don't glue the swivel joint, else you cannot TF him anymore). I say, glue the mofo.

3) Feels flimsy in certain areas, the neck brace, the legs covers (white plastic covers) like to, again, pop out

4) The retracting/detracting joint on the ankle point tends to, again, POP out!

5) Some plastic parts are very thin and fragile, so when you cut them from the runner, please exercise caution.

i.e. The same issues that haunt all transforming Plamodels/Gunpla. Just because you can transform it, doesn't mean it's a good idea. Watching that vid that was posted earlier reminds me of why transforming models are a "handle with extreme care" issue.

[valkyriepilot]

i.e. The same issues that haunt all transforming Plamodels/Gunpla. Just because you can transform it, doesn't mean it's a good idea. Watching that vid that was posted earlier reminds me of why transforming models are a "handle with extreme care" issue.

Couldn't agree more, I mean look at MG Zeta v2.0, Bandai DID solve most of the flimsyness involved with the v1.0, but still you can't expect it to be THAT sturdy. The transformation gimmick in any transforming plamodel is a "nice to have" feature after all, and as a model, it's not expected to be transformed over and over like a Yam or DX toy...

EDIT: btw thanks to Graham and klam1020 for the awesome scans! As I result I just placed a preorder for the mag too

Edited September 29, 2008 by valkyriepilot

[danth]

Holy crap. Those look absolutely perfect.

What parts are swapped between modes?

[Zeropioneer]

I'm a bit of a noob to Macross Toys and Models so please forgive me.

Where is a good online vendor/website that I could perorder the Ozma kit? I'm assuming its not out yet?

Rainbow Ten is already taking pre-orders for the Ozma version. It's the last item in the bandai section of their model news page:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/news/n-release.html

To order, go read this: http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/howtoorder.html

and then go here:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html

[David Hingtgen]

Holy crap. Those look absolutely perfect.

What parts are swapped between modes?

Hands and shield.

[CosmicSpore]

Why does everyone keep insisting on ordering at Rainbowten?

On the front page it has a big label that says... "SOLD OUT!" and it has been sold out for a while now.

Edit: Sorry, I wasn't talking about the Ozma kit, but the Alto.

Edited September 29, 2008 by CosmicSpore

[valkyriepilot]

Why does everyone keep insisting on ordering at Rainbowten?

On the front page it has a big label that says... "SOLD OUT!" and it has been sold out for a while now.

Dude, it was a PRE-ORDER for the VF-25S Ozma Custom, which is just to be released, not the VF-25F Alto Custom. See below quoted:

Rainbow Ten is already taking pre-orders for the Ozma version. It's the last item in the bandai section of their model news page:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/news/n-release.html

To order, go read this: http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/howtoorder.html

and then go here:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html

Edited September 29, 2008 by valkyriepilot

[regult]

It says that you should paint those gaps not covered by the stickers.

It says that you could reduce the appearance of sprue scars by using Gundam marker (of a similiar color to the plastic).

Thanks a million for translating, I also have a question first row, on putting an accent to the panel lines:

http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...st&id=58626

what pen is recommended and what is used to wipe the excess?

[CosmicSpore]

I must've edited my post as you posted valkyriepilot!

Anyways, I made a mistake thinking someone else was recommending rainbowten for the Alto.

I saw a while back, that a couple people recommended it for the Alto, but it had already been sold out even then.

I thought I was missing out on something, because I still haven't got an Alto...

Edited September 29, 2008 by CosmicSpore

[revelation1]

Rainbow Ten is already taking pre-orders for the Ozma version. It's the last item in the bandai section of their model news page:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/news/n-release.html

To order, go read this: http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/howtoorder.html

and then go here:

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html

Thank you very much zeropioneer! Much appreciated!

Oh, btw... in the delivery method portion of the order form what would I put considering I'm in the US and I'm ordering from Japan I'm assuming? Sorry for all the questions; I'm pretty new at ordering things from over seas. In other words what shipping method do you guys recommend?

Edited September 29, 2008 by revelation1

[badboy00z]

Thanks a million for translating, I also have a question first row, on putting an accent to the panel lines:

http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...st&id=58626

what pen is recommended and what is used to wipe the excess?

"Gundam" markers are what a lot of people use. You can either use paint thinner, rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid to remove the excess.

Another method is called the "wash". Thin some paint so it's like milk consistency. Dab some on the plastic and let it run down the panel lines. Wipe off excess.

[wolfx]

"Gundam" markers are what a lot of people use. You can either use paint thinner, rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid to remove the excess.

Another method is called the "wash". Thin some paint so it's like milk consistency. Dab some on the plastic and let it run down the panel lines. Wipe off excess.

Keep in mind i'm an amateur modeller.

I've used both Gundam Markers and wash methods. Gundam Markers has good effects but tend to rub off over time if you don't seal it with a clear coat. Wash method saves you ALOT of work that is done with markers and again requires you to clear coat over it to preserve it during handling.

[MechTech]

revelation 1 - Welcome! You're best bet for ordering anything from Japan/Hong Kong is trackable. It costs about half the cost of the kit on average, but you have to ask yourself how much you want it in one piece.

When ordering from HLJ.com, I always use EMS: http://www.hlj.com/hlj_shipping.html Surface can take long and the longer your package travels, the more it will get squashed - about a month later! - MT

[revelation1]

revelation 1 - Welcome! You're best bet for ordering anything from Japan/Hong Kong is trackable. It costs about half the cost of the kit on average, but you have to ask yourself how much you want it in one piece.

When ordering from HLJ.com, I always use EMS: http://www.hlj.com/hlj_shipping.html Surface can take long and the longer your package travels, the more it will get squashed - about a month later! - MT

Thank you MT for the response. Much appreciated.

[Fly4victory]

That SMS VB-6 is hot.

Wonder how long before there is a decal sheet released?

The modifications shown in Hobby Japan to the front landing gear make the model look so much better.

Looks like the origional gear was used as the base and then new parts were glued on.

Edit: According to HLJ, my VF-25 just shipped.

Edited September 29, 2008 by Fly4victory

[TCracker]

Feedback time, guys.

I managed to decal up the VF-25 and overall it looks good. I am bias towards the Gerwalk mode so I am going to leave the kit like this for the time being. I have TFed it to Battriod and looks like any MG Gundam kit.

A word of warning, ppl. I found out that there are 2 points (for my kit t least) is already exhibiting signs of breakage.

The hinge connector that holds the wings together is at the verge of breaking and cracks are apparent on the hinge itself.

Hope you can see it.

The metal rod that hold the tailfins exerted pressure on the hinges and the pegs are already broken. So a word of advise, when turning the tailfin, do it slowly. The excessive pressure will cause it to crack and break. But I have a fix for that, will share it when I am done with it.

Still alot of decaling to go, but good display piece nonetheless.

Left the Princess alone at the moment, going for a week break, will paint him up when I return.

Edited September 29, 2008 by TCracker

[valkyriepilot]

Nice buildup TCracker! and Thanks for the tip on the stress points. Hmmm, I guess the plastic in those points are really thin then. The transformable 1/100 Strike VF-1S also by Bandai had a similar problem too, the tailfins' hinges had the same thin plastic and, even though the pivot points were plastic and exerted less pressure/friction on the parts holding it, was also liable to cracks and breakage. Other Gundam kits with similar pivoting stress loading points are prone to cracking and breakage as well... Guess I'll be really careful with mine when I build it and attempt any transformation then

[carzooyah]

Thanks for the gerwalk pics! I'm a big fan of gerwalk mode as well. Too bad the kits are all sold out I hope the reissue comes out soon. There's still a lot more Macross fans deprived of their own VF-25 D:

[regult]

"Gundam" markers are what a lot of people use. You can either use paint thinner, rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid to remove the excess.

Another method is called the "wash". Thin some paint so it's like milk consistency. Dab some on the plastic and let it run down the panel lines. Wipe off excess.

Hm...I used the famous gundam pen for panels once, and it did rub off with Tamiya thinner, but the thinner was cracking the plastic...

maybe alcohol with diluted in water is safer for gundam pens? will experiment

Keep in mind i'm an amateur modeller.

I've used both Gundam Markers and wash methods. Gundam Markers has good effects but tend to rub off over time if you don't seal it with a clear coat. Wash method saves you ALOT of work that is done with markers and again requires you to clear coat over it to preserve it during handling.

Did try very diluted tamiya "flat black" enamel and it didn't really look great, will probably use some kind of enamel grey. Have 0 experience with acrylic paint but feels it would work better.

The thing with Alto's VF is the white...too much white and those seamlines to allow transformation are huge, so putting an accent to all panel lines will help disguise the real gaps. I didn't even get the Alto custom and already drooling over the Ozma custom! first time I have to wait longer than you guys...Graham, are you there? any news from Wanchai??

[Master Dex]

Ok, I have questions. I don't plan on getting the Alto because I'm waiting for the Ozma (debating whether to preorder form RanbowTen or wait for HLJ preorder). However when I get that I want to sticker/decal it and panel line it. I've done stickers before and I remember trying panel lining once in the past on a gundam 1/144 model (can't remember how it turned out, I don't have the model anymore).

My questions include, for panel lining a lot of people seem to recommend something called a gundam marker. The time I tried it I think I just used a really thin-tipped marker, so is this gundam marker better for this and where can I get one? Also is some time of washing method necessary or is that for if you mess up?

Second question, I am familiar with stickers but a lot of people seem to like decals more and until recently I had no idea how they worked. Now I know they involve water to apply but I am still really confused about them. How exactly do you apply decals? Also since I am so new to that idea do you think I should just stick with stickers instead?

Ok, that was 3 questions I guess, I lied. Actually I wonder something else too, whether or not it would be easier to apply stickers or decals to the parts before building it, it might be easier but I am not sure.

[David Hingtgen]

What most people call Gundam markers for panel lining are just very fine-tipped markers. In fact, most actual brand-name Gundam markers have large tips---only a few are small and made for panel lines. I've used both, and the difference is almost nil.

Wash---different usage of the word. Refers to "flooding" an area as opposed to "washing up". Instead of individually inking each panel line, you use a thinned ink/paint and just kind of haphazardly apply it all over, and it'll go into the lines by itself. You will then have to remove the excess by, ironically, washing it off. Why use this method? More subtle panel lines. My planned method for when I get mine.

I assume we're getting a lot of first-time builders here. Anyone know of a good "how to build models" FAQ? ARC doesn't seem to help much, nor does the rec.models.scale FAQ---a zillion Q's, but short A's.

[miriya]

David, I used some of the pro modelers weathering wash on my glaug. I found at first that the wash, when wet did not "stick" so well to the plain raw plastic. It sort of beaded around on top of the pastic a bit. I kept at it and applied more and more wash and when it dried it stuck pretty well. Rubbing the excess off was interesting because sometimes I was rubbing out of the panel lines too but I think that is the hardest part, rubbing off the excess but not too hard so that it gets out of the lines as well and getting the right moisture with the paper towel was tricky as well. I decided to leave some of the parts quite dirty but against that almost semi transparent white (not very creamy, maybe tending towards the blue side) the dark wash looks a bit strange. I did a clear coat over everything once I finished the rubbing.

I am wondering if i should have applied a dullcoat first, then done the wash. and then another clear coat after rubbing off the excess. I have a feeling that a dullcoat may give more grit for the wash to hold to. What do you think?

[Jarrod]

Just got mine yesterday and I have mixed feelings over the kit, here goes:-

The good

6) Battriod, not bad. Standard gunpla articulation. Elbows are double jointed, knees are

"kinda" double jointed and shitloads of swivel joints all over. No waist swivel tho, due to the tranformation design. If you are looking for extreme articulation, stick with Revoltech if Kaiyodo ever makes a Revoltech VF-25 (which I think would be a blast:D)

Now, the BAD

2) Parts tend to pop off when tf-ing it. Especially the hinges on the hips and the kneecaps (the white cover and the dark grey interior, don't glue the swivel joint, else you cannot TF him anymore). I say, glue the mofo.

3) Feels flimsy in certain areas, the neck brace, the legs covers (white plastic covers) like to, again, pop out

4) The retracting/detracting joint on the ankle point tends to, again, POP out!

Check again, there is indeed a waist joint! Well, its more of abdomen joint, but its there, and it rotates.

I don't have any of the problems above, after numerous transformations...in fact I don't see HOW the anked joint pops out. It's totally enclosed, and has locking mechanism to keep it in the proper position.

Should have pics of mine up on Wednesday or so.

Jarrod

[PetarB]

Can someone please post a pic of the new assembled model in fighter mode next to a Hasegawa VF-1?

Thankyou.

[Master Dex]

Check again, there is indeed a waist joint! Well, its more of abdomen joint, but its there, and it rotates.

I don't have any of the problems above, after numerous transformations...in fact I don't see HOW the anked joint pops out. It's totally enclosed, and has locking mechanism to keep it in the proper position.

Should have pics of mine up on Wednesday or so.

Jarrod

Sounds like it depends on personal experience and how you handle it. Good to see it has a "stomach" joint of some type.

To David:

Thanks, that is an interesting method but I don't want to do anything too extensive really. I only build snap models because I don't enjoy building resin models with glue and cement and I don't want to paint anything so the most I want to do is apply stickers. I think I will do panel lining too but I am going to go for the method of using a marker to individually doing each line. I may panel line before assembling to make it easier for me.

As for the gundam markers themselves is there a good place to get them or any generic thin tipped marker since I don't have one anymore? I can probably find it by searching but I figure someone here would know a good place.

I'm going to re-post my other questions on decals and such since I am still looking for answers:

Second question, I am familiar with stickers but a lot of people seem to like decals more and until recently I had no idea how they worked. Now I know they involve water to apply but I am still really confused about them. How exactly do you apply decals? Also since I am so new to that idea do you think I should just stick with stickers instead?

[miriya]

Fine tip gundam marker for panel lining, gray...

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02

[miriya]

waterslide decal application...

http://www.gamerabaenre.com/waterslide_decal.htm

http://searchwarp.com/swa220683.htm

http://www.minifigcustomizationnetwork.com/howto/897

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal

[Master Dex]

Fine tip gundam marker for panel lining, gray...

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02

***

waterslide decal application...

http://www.gamerabaenre.com/waterslide_decal.htm

http://searchwarp.com/swa220683.htm

http://www.minifigcustomizationnetwork.com/howto/897

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal

And thank you fellow Zentradi ace pilot.

I was thinking black for panel lining but I guess gray makes more sense in the long run. Anyway, thanks again for the help, much appreciated.

[Vifam7]

As for the gundam markers themselves is there a good place to get them or any generic thin tipped marker since I don't have one anymore? I can probably find it by searching but I figure someone here would know a good place.

Try gundamstoreandmore.com for Gundam markers. I suggest getting the "Sumiire Gray Paint Marker #21". It's acrylic based and comes out easy with water if you make a boo boo.

Edited September 29, 2008 by Vifam7

[David Hingtgen]

I own http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02 and it's "almost black". It's kind of a dark purple-grey and somewhat translucent. I only use it on white. I've wondered about that #21 Sumire grey, I think it may be more 'grey' as opposed to te almost black of #2.

Miriya---thanks much for the report. I've got a Gundam Wing HG kit I'm going to build to try some things out on, including the "dark dirt" wash. I'm going to try hand-brushing flattened Future on it too. Will try putting the wash over a flat clear coat vs over bare plastic too. I plan to "perfect" my technique before I build my VF-25. Current theory/plan after your comments:

Build, decal, slightly flattened future, wash, flattened future. Because I want the wash over the decals, and a double clearcoat will help really seal in the decals (as we know they can't take many transformations it seems).

TCracker---how much did you paint on yours? Fingers, head lasers, canopy frame, and....?

[Master Dex]

I own http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02 and it's "almost black". It's kind of a dark purple-grey and somewhat translucent. I only use it on white. I've wondered about that #21 Sumire grey, I think it may be more 'grey' as opposed to te almost black of #2.

Miriya---thanks much for the report. I've got a Gundam Wing HG kit I'm going to build to try some things out on, including the "dark dirt" wash. I'm going to try hand-brushing flattened Future on it too. Will try putting the wash over a flat clear coat vs over bare plastic too. I plan to "perfect" my technique before I build my VF-25. Current theory/plan after your comments:

Build, decal, slightly flattened future, wash, flattened future. Because I want the wash over the decals, and a double clearcoat will help really seal in the decals (as we know they can't take many transformations it seems).

TCracker---how much did you paint on yours? Fingers, head lasers, canopy frame, and....?

I wasn't sure which marker to get but I am planning to get Ozma's VF-25 and considering that it is largely gray what do you think would work best? If I go with a gray marker it might not show well.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

I'm not going to use pens and stuff for panel lines. I'm just going to flood the panel lines like I used to do to my old gundam models and stuff.

Anyone who owns and finished it completely break anything yet?

Would be good if bandai upscaled the 1/72 kits and made the plastic stronger/thicker or whatever. Hehe nobody likes the 1/60 toy!