DestroidsRage Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 I aquired a Colt 1851 Navy revolver, but its kind of rusted and needs some work, so I lent it to a friend to work on it, however he needs schematics to make sure he doesnt screw anything up. I've looked on google and stuff, and I cant seem to find schematics for the Colt 1851 Navy revolver. Mine is the old type with the octagonal barrel. Its a reproduction obviously, but a very nice one. So can anyone give me a link, or send me a picture of the schematics? We can dissasemble most of it, but the barrel and cylinder and stuff refuses to budge, probably bad rust dammage, but yah. Thanks in advance! Sorry for this being off topic, but so many people are knowledgable about guns here I figured this is the best place to ask -BEN-MAN- Quote
Mechamaniac Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 Might help if you posted it here. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...=ST&f=26&t=2210 But a very (and I mean very) quick search on Google revealed this link. http://www.coltparts.com/pt_51navy.html Hope it helps. Quote
Opus Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 If it's so rusted that you can't even break it down I would suggest not shooting it even after you get it cleaned up. The strucural integrity may be comprimised. Then you might have to change your name to StumpysRage. That is if it doesn't kill you. Quote
bsu legato Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 (edited) Depending on the make, you can get all the parts you need from here. https://www.vtigunparts.com/ab2240000Equick...ick/default.asp The most common replicas are Uberti, Pietta and Armi San Marco. If it's just surface rust, as is common for black powder guns that haven't been properly cared for, then some blueing/rust remover might clean it up. However, if the gun is pretty bad, you may have to replace some of the smaller parts like the cylinder hand. Edit: the barrel wedge (the thingy holding the barrel assembly onto the gun) can be difficult to remove, even on a new Colt. Make sure that you've loosened the wedge screw, and try tapping the wedge out the left side with a wood mallet. Edited October 25, 2003 by bsu legato Quote
Sumdumgai Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 Also be careful of the nipples on the cylinder, if they're messed up you could have some trouble when you fire the thing. And although this may be just common sense, but don't dry fire it, you can crack the nipples on the cylinder (the little knubs you put the percussion caps on). If you plan on going shooting with it once it's fixed up, careful to make sure that the bullets aren't getting jammed in the barrel. Once I was shooting a black powder revolver and I didn't realize the bullets were some how being wedged in the barrel. I was wondering why I wasn't seeing new bullet holes in the target, when I decided to check out the barrel. As it turns out I had four bullets jammed in there. Damn I was lucky the thing didn't blow up in my face! Good luck with yer new baby! If you got turned into StumpysRage, you'd probably ge roaming around looking like my avatar! Quote
DestroidsRage Posted October 25, 2003 Author Posted October 25, 2003 Thank you very much for your help you guys! I knew that I'd aquire a wealth of knowledge from you guys! And yah... I think I need to buy one or two new parts. In particular a new wedge that holds things together, and the piece that secures the loading arm to the front of the barrel. Right now the loading arm is just kinda hanging there. Most of it is surface rust, and from that site, it seems like the parts that I think we'll have problems with will be easy to replace. And thanks for the tips! I actually would have had no idea that dry firing it would be bad! I guess theres still a lot I have to learn. But this gun is awesome, and Im perfectly willing to learn all I need to in order to properly maintain and use it If black powder guns rust so easily... How do you protect them? Coating them in oil or something? When this thing gets cleaned up I dont want it to get rusty again It seems like this will make a wonderful first gun for me! I've shot guns before, but I've never owned one personally. It seems like it will be fun to break this gun down, clean it, all of that stuff. I cant wait My gun says "made in Italy", and there was a small roundish logo on part of it, but it was illegible. So I dont know which reproduction company made mine... At any rate! Thank you very much guys!! -BEN-MAN- Quote
bsu legato Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 If black powder guns rust so easily... How do you protect them? Coating them in oil or something? Heh...that's the real trick of it. Basically, you have to scrub the entire gun off in hot soapy water. And make sure you do it less than 24 hours after shooting it. Once you've finally cleaned it up, pour boiling hot water over the parts to rinse them off. The boiling water will heat up the metal and evaporate any surface moisture. Most gun oils aren't really "black powder friendly." On my Remington, I've taken to using Ballistol on it. That stuff rocks! If it says "Made In Italy" then it's likely a Uberti or a Pietta, since I believe that Armi San Marco's are from Spain. It might make a difference which make it is when ordering replacement parts. You might have to do some checking to see which makers proof marks is closest to yours. Quote
DestroidsRage Posted October 31, 2003 Author Posted October 31, 2003 Ok, we got everything apart. Except we cant get the Base Pin (the pin that holds in the cylinder) out of the cylinder!! Should it just pull out? is it screwed into the barrel? How should I go about getting it out normally? Thanks a bunch! -BEN-MAN- Quote
bsu legato Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 (edited) I'm not quite sure what you mean. The "base pin" is what the cylinder revolves around. It's #21 in this diagram. It's fixed to the frame, and to avoid damaging it or the frame, it should only be removed by a gunsmith. The barrel is held onto the base pin with that wedge. If you've gotten the wedge out, but are having trouble removing the barrel then there's one quick way to work it free. Rotate the cylinder so that there is not a chamber lined up with the rammer, and use the loading lever to force the barrel assembly off of the frame. Edit: If there's some rust sticking it together, you could always try some penetrating oil. Even good old WD-40 might work. Just let it soak in overnight, then try to pull the two assemlies apart. Edited October 31, 2003 by bsu legato Quote
DestroidsRage Posted October 31, 2003 Author Posted October 31, 2003 What I mean is.. The base pin is rusted so that the cylinder cant turn around it. So we were trying to get the base pin /out/ so we could clean everything up. However, it simply wont come out. Do you think its just really corroded? Or is there something were missing? Right now we have everything dissasembled, except for the base pin still being firmly stuck in the cylinder. Ya know. Were probably going to just buy a new base pin and cylinder, but yah. -BEN-MAN- Quote
bsu legato Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 Oh, so you have the barrel assembly off, but the cylinder won't come off the base pin/frame? Hmm...that is a bit of a problem. With the barrel off, the cylinder should just slide off the pin, assuming you've taken out the locking mechanism. All I can suggest is drowning it in WD-40, and let it soak in for a couple of days. If you still can't free it up, you may be up a certain creek, if you know what I mean. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.