Macross Aircraft Models

[Paragon]

Hello! This is my first post on these forums, though I've been a big fan of Robotech since I was young. I've also seen Macross Zero, though thats about the extent of my Macross experience.

Anyway, I'm a bit a card model (or papercraft, if you prefer) designer, and while re-watching the Macross saga from Robotech, a couple of the less important aircraft caught my eye. I design simple cardmodels of aircraft and offer them as free downloads at Paragon Carmodels, my website. I've currently designed at least 37 models (depending on how you count them, and whether you include variants), and am very interested in adding Macross aircarft models to my offering. Aircraft like the VC-33 Mom's Kitchen, VC-27 Tunny, F203 Dragon II, etc. I've got all the files from the Macross Compendium that can help with design, and it really isn't quite enough yet. Right now I'll have to do some drawings to account for top views, unless any of you know where I can find more schematics of these aircraft. Flat top, bottom and side views are most useful.

I'll post my progress here for all of those interested. I also suggest you take a look at the Zealot Hobby Forums where I will probably give more updates.

[badboy00z]

Pretty cool paper models.

[Paragon]

I finished the prototype today and put it together, this is the result (sorry for the messy build):

I expect to release several colored versions on my website tomorrow or the day after.

Edited February 6, 2008 by Paragon

[Paragon]

Progress:

I expect the files to be available on my website tonight (GMT -5).

[Paragon]

The final versions are now done, and are available on my website, which is once again www.freewebs.com/paragon19/

[maximilian_jenius]

EXCELLENT WORK MAN!!!!!

I will make it today.

I wonder if you could make the model of the Walhalla III from VFX video game series

[Taylor_VFA122]

That's pretty cool. How do you color something like that and what kind of glue would you use. That Blue Angles F-25 is my favorite so far. It would be cool to see more Macross kits. VF-11, VF-0, and VF-25 . . . hint hint

Edited February 8, 2008 by Taylor_VFA122

[nightmareB4macross]

Hi Paragon,

Welcome to Macrossworld.

Those are really nice cardmodels. That VC-33 looks killer.

[Paragon]

That's pretty cool. How do you color something like that and what kind of glue would you use. That Blue Angles F-25 is my favorite so far. It would be cool to see more Macross kits. VF-11, VF-0, and VF-25 . . . hint hint

Just print the kit with a color printer. I suggest 110 lb cardstock. I also just use regular white glue, with a paintbrush for application.

[Taylor_VFA122]

sweet. I look forward to seeing new stuff

[Paragon]

Everyone should feel free to post images of their own builds, I'd certainly be glad to see them.

My next model will probably be a real plane, the English Electric Canberra. After that, I'm thinking of doing the VC-27 Tunny, or the Cat's Eye.

Maximillian, right now I'm sticking with aircraft, and I would need a lot more reference images than that for my design style, but if you can find enough, its certainly not out of the picture.

As for the VF-11, I know of a site that has a model of it, but if you want it you'll have to PM me, one of the other models is called "Osaka Rapes Pyramidhead", and I'm not sure the mods would want me linking to that?

[Hikuro]

After downloading a bunch of these paper models I just gotta know.....how the HELL do you do these? most of these don't even have instructions, and I don't know if you fold on the lines or on the flaps, or anything, it's just so confusing...I can like guess where these pieces go but I dunno if I'm right.

I was working on a VF-11C with some instructions, but i couldn't figure it out, some of the folds are so complex. I had to give up when i was trying to attatch the shoulders onto the main body and then it started to really look like crap.

I've got a 1/32 and a 1/48 VF-4 I wanna put together, but it's just........I dunno 0_o what do I do? someone hold my frakin hand XD

[SchizophrenicMC]

After downloading a bunch of these paper models I just gotta know.....how the HELL do you do these? most of these don't even have instructions, and I don't know if you fold on the lines or on the flaps, or anything, it's just so confusing...I can like guess where these pieces go but I dunno if I'm right.

I was working on a VF-11C with some instructions, but i couldn't figure it out, some of the folds are so complex. I had to give up when i was trying to attatch the shoulders onto the main body and then it started to really look like crap.

I've got a 1/32 and a 1/48 VF-4 I wanna put together, but it's just........I dunno 0_o what do I do? someone hold my frakin hand XD

Well, well, Hikuro. I didn't know you couldn't do everything...

The more complex ones are hard. I tried my hand at the 1/48 VF-4, and I agree, it's hard. My advice, build the less complex VF-1s before the VF-11, YF-19, and 1/48 VF-4.

My advice: solid lines generally mean "Cut", dotted means fold back, and dashed means fold forward. This isn't always the case, but normally. Also, when applying glue, use a toothpick dipped in elmer's. It's the most effective way to do it, and it REALLY helps if you have very thin-nose tweezers to hold the bond and attach small parts. Take it from a papercrafter.

My current projects:

HWR-00 Monster Mk. II

12:1 version of SF Papercraft VF-1S

Design a Perfect Transformation VF-1S (This one's actually coming along...)

SF Papercraft VF-1S FAST Pack

VF-11

YF-19

VF-4

M&M VF-1Js

VC-33 Mom's Kitchen, a la Paragon

[Hikuro]

Yeah god, I got a VF-19 and looked at that going ".................................what?"

So dashed lines you fold forward? You mean like how you normally fold a piece of paper or you fold it white side up? color side down? Don't really follow on t hat.

But you serious? you cut the solid lines 0_o? This is pretty confusing to me.

But tooth pick and elmers that I can cover.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Yeah god, I got a VF-19 and looked at that going ".................................what?"

So dashed lines you fold forward? You mean like how you normally fold a piece of paper or you fold it white side up? color side down? Don't really follow on t hat.

But you serious? you cut the solid lines 0_o? This is pretty confusing to me.

But tooth pick and elmers that I can cover.

Like I said, it's a general rule. It's not always true. For example, the attached Angel Birds pic. That's a fold line. The papercraft doesn't follow the law of Papercrafting. (If you want it, PM me. I also have the VF-1S Skull-1 and a FAST Pack on the same (Actually, there's a slight difference) scale.)

So, Here's the general rule:

Cut Solid lines

Fold Dashed Lines Backward (I got that backwards last time)

Fold Dotted Lines Forward

That's illustrated in the VF-11C Papercraft, as shown in the other attached image.

Folding backwards (Mountain Fold) is when you're facing the colored side and you fold the paper away along that line.

Folding Forward (Valley Fold) is when you're facing the colored side and you fold the paper towards you along the line.

They're named such, because a backwards fold creates a "mountain" in the paper, and vice versa.

I believe your VF-11, YF-19, and VF-4 are from the same source. All 3 of the ones I have have instructions. I'm rather certain they're the only ones of their type, as well. They include instructions, you know.

[Hikuro]

HAH! I couldn't even do that chibi VF-1S battroid.....it got all lop sided but I atleast had much of the upper body left...I can still build it just gonna be soooooo funky.

[SchizophrenicMC]

HAH! I couldn't even do that chibi VF-1S battroid.....it got all lop sided but I atleast had much of the upper body left...I can still build it just gonna be soooooo funky.

If that's the case, you kinda suck... Work on your papercrafting skills. With simpler stuff, of course. For example, Sonicscape (Jun)'s Paper Gadgets line. He's got a micro DS Lite, a bunch of Xbox 360s, Iphone, PS3, all kindsa stuff...

[Urashiman]

Ah I c .. some people seem to have issues with building my models

ask me any question and I will answer it

here a render of all my planes

[Knight26]

they look nice but with such a white background it washes them out, choose a more neutral khaki background next time if you can

[SchizophrenicMC]

Ah I c .. some people seem to have issues with building my models

ask me any question and I will answer it

here a render of all my planes

So...

On the VF-11C, how would you suggest going about sticking the pre-fab sections together? That's why I have yet to make one. I don't fancy getting pre-fab sections together, and I can't think of a way. I plan on printing it again, so I can do it right.

[Hikuro]

To be honest, I'm looking for instructions on the VF-4....That's what I really want to build seeing how you never can find a decent Resin model and there's no toy out : / and I kind of just wanna go and woosh one around for fun.

[Urashiman]

So...

On the VF-11C, how would you suggest going about sticking the pre-fab sections together? That's why I have yet to make one. I don't fancy getting pre-fab sections together, and I can't think of a way. I plan on printing it again, so I can do it right.

I dunno what u mean with "pre-fab section", pictures or explaination please

To be honest, I'm looking for instructions on the VF-4....That's what I really want to build seeing how you never can find a decent Resin model and there's no toy out : / and I kind of just wanna go and woosh one around for fun.

there should be instructions on my website www.sd-sascha.de.vu

EDIT:

I fixed the het intakes of the VF-11. Looks like many have problems with this part. I also redid the texture, will be available soon.

Edited January 11, 2009 by Urashiman

[SchizophrenicMC]

I dunno what u mean with "pre-fab section", pictures or explaination please

there should be instructions on my website www.sd-sascha.de.vu

EDIT:

I fixed the het intakes of the VF-11. Looks like many have problems with this part. I also redid the texture, will be available soon.

For example, the nose section is a prefab section that must be later attached to others, like the fuselage and such.

[Urashiman]

For example, the nose section is a prefab section that must be later attached to others, like the fuselage and such.

This is simple. They are just glued together one by one. First build the mainbody of the VF-11 and then the nose is made up of rings that go into each other ...

[big F]

Paper models rock I am in awe of anyone who can design them. Actually making them is not so hard if some one has done the designing work for you

[SchizophrenicMC]

This is simple. They are just glued together one by one. First build the mainbody of the VF-11 and then the nose is made up of rings that go into each other ...

Well, I know that, but my trouble is keeping it together in the right shape as I glue it. Any tips?

[Urashiman]

Well, I know that, but my trouble is keeping it together in the right shape as I glue it. Any tips?

I didn't have this problem (even if my hands are huge and need to use a pincette).

Try to use fast hardening glue (like UHU glue ... works fine for me)

and you need patience ... many patience. don't try to build it too fast, take your time and try out how pieces need to go together before you glue them together. That's all I can say.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I didn't have this problem (even if my hands are huge and need to use a pincette).

Try to use fast hardening glue (like UHU glue ... works fine for me)

and you need patience ... many patience. don't try to build it too fast, take your time and try out how pieces need to go together before you glue them together. That's all I can say.

I am patient. But when a model breaks when you attempt to assemble it, I lose patience.

I know how they fit, but the problem is getting them to stay while the glue sets... I might try UHU... (What's that stand for?) Also, getting the last flap in with enough force on it to push it against the internal surface for a strong bond

[Urashiman]

I am patient. But when a model breaks when you attempt to assemble it, I lose patience.

I know how they fit, but the problem is getting them to stay while the glue sets... I might try UHU... (What's that stand for?) Also, getting the last flap in with enough force on it to push it against the internal surface for a strong bond

http://images.google.de/images?hl=de&q...sa=N&tab=wi

UHU is the german word for owl

do you use the right paper? 120-180 g/m² paper is the best for papercraft. don't use normal 80g/m² paper or your papercraft will be easy destructible.

[SchizophrenicMC]

http://images.google.de/images?hl=de&q...sa=N&tab=wi

UHU is the german word for owl

do you use the right paper? 120-180 g/m² paper is the best for papercraft. don't use normal 80g/m² paper or your papercraft will be easy destructible.

I use... 160gsm. Great stuff, I use it for ALL my papercrafts.

I'll hafta find some good glue, and needlenose pliers are a must. (Lost my last pair)

[SchizophrenicMC]

Anyone got any ideas as to the VF-11C intakes? I'm having trouble figuring out how they go on the plane. They're assembled, but I can't figure out how Parts 13 and 12 relate to 10 and 11, respectively.

[Urashiman]

Anyone got any ideas as to the VF-11C intakes? I'm having trouble figuring out how they go on the plane. They're assembled, but I can't figure out how Parts 13 and 12 relate to 10 and 11, respectively.

I don't need ideas ... I know how it has to be glued. here some pics.

Hope this helps ... the upper flap on the intake of parts 10 and 11 must be folded upwards.

[Chronocidal]

Heh.. I love coincidences like this. My office has just been going through a random papercraft fad, mostly simple box caricatures and the like. Me, being the aircraft nut, built a couple of Ojimak's planes, then stumbled onto the YF-19 and YF-21. After my first iteration on copy paper failed, I went and bought some 65 lb stock, and tried again.

So far, this one's been going well, I've got a couple of pics up of the progress on both tries.

First off, the diagrams. From what I've tried, I believe the light blue lines are valley folds (crease away from you) and the dark blue are mountain folds (crease toward you). That should help a little.

The biggest drawback is that the instructions don't actually show the tabs, or where they go, so that takes some experimentation. Some tabs are actually a bit too big for the areas they're meant to go into, so they may need trimming down.

For folds, I generally hold the piece up to a light, and fold it over a metal ruler to get a sharp edge. Most folds I'll only lightly crease, since that's usually all you need, unless you really need a sharp corner. Remember, these models are made out of computer polygon models, and any quad face and be made 2 unique ways, with opposing triangles. Many of the creases are meant only to help the quad faces bend the correct way to make the desired shape.

What really takes the most practice here is figuring out the proper order to do things in. Making things in an order that allows you access to the interior of the model until the last possible moment is crucial.

The VF-11 seems to have the same sort of nose structure as the YF-19, a set of rings. I actually found the most useful way to build the nose is one piece at a time, alternating top and bottom. Build the very front of the nose first, and then add either the next top or bottom piece alternatively. This way, you can press down on the tabs on the inside of each as you glue, and if you let the previous structure dry well, it will give you a solid construction to glue new pieces onto. It's also easier to fit the pieces together this way, since you don't have to line up the tabs from one whole ring on the inside of the previous piece.

The real key is to not glue anything to the outside of a sealed box. If you have to press something down on the outside of a closed form, you'll probably crush it. So, it takes a lot of thinking ahead.

Now, if you really want to strengthen things later, you can spread a thin layer of glue over the whole model, or at least key structures. I did this with one of Ojimak's flying models, and coated the entire nose in glue after it was done. For stationary models this isn't such a big deal, but if you plan to fly them, they can crush VERY easily if they crash.

One thing about paper I found out from experience: the YF-19 WILL work with standard copy paper, but only just barely. To be honest, with the YF-19, thin paper can be a blessing in some areas, because there are many layers of paper going together, and since these are based off computer polygon models, thickness is NOT taken into account in the design. My first version was actually closer to 1/72 than 1/60, since it was printed using an option to fit to the printable area of the paper. The smaller size may have helped.

The rear fuselage on the YF-19 is very complicated, and can be tricky to put together if you don't crease the paper in the right places. I didn't crease the fuselage pieces enough on my first one, and though it's okay, it's a bit warped, because without the creases, the paper decided to bend where it wanted to, in the direction it wanted to. That's why my second version has every crease made very carefully.

One last thing that isn't really necessary, but helped me a lot with the more complicated pieces: a hobby knife. I did the first version with scissors at my office, and while it worked, it wasn't great. The new version I've been cutting out entirely with an Exacto knife, and it's helped to keep the pieces very cleanly cut.

K, for the pics

The one with the nose already attached is the first one I tried. In order to attach it, you have to glue the rear portion of the nose tube to the top of the main body. On my first one, I built the whole nose first, and holding the nose down to it crushed the body. On the new one, I glued that rear portion to the upper body panel before I even built the body.

The bottom view shows the difference good creases make. On the first one, I didn't crease the bottom, and when I tried to attach everything, it warped. I wound up having to slit two seams with a knife, and retape them in order to make a shaping crease. The bottom of the new one though is nice and even.

Edit: Holy crap, I just realized how much I wrote. Sorry for the length, but I hope it's useful info.

Edited February 15, 2009 by Chronocidal

[badboy00z]

That's badass.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Badboy's right.

I like Ojimak. His planes own. I just wish he'd release the non-flying ADF-01... I WANT THAT PLANE, NYARGH!

Moving on, I'm just having trouble conceptualizing where everything goes. I don't have a lot of experience with the VF-11's design. I can easily do a lot of VF-1 models, just out of knowledge of its design. Also, it would stand to reason that a VF-17 wouldn't be incredibly hard, since it's so polygonal, anyway. I don't plan on making a YF-19 or 21 any time soon just because of all the curves involved.

I know how to papercraft. I've been doing it for a while now. I have an entire bookshelf devoted to my papercraft, and it doesn't even hold them all. Now, I'm attempting to convince my father to allow me to print 18 pages of SFPapercraft Gallery's VF-1S in 12:1 scale (of the original model) and 18 pages of the Monster Mk. II Papercraft. He doesn't want me to "Waste the Ink!"