Hey! What are you working on?

[brannon]

Ok I did it my first custom, I have not traceformed it you scared to damage the paint but I will evantualy. Just to know how do you guys stop paint scraping?

i just saw that big hole in the fighter is this the one that was bought a couple of weeks back? cause i was planning to do the same thing.

[hal9000]

Yes this is the su-51 that was for sale a week ago, the tail fins spin very freely. The panil lines were with a Koh-i-noor Rapido sketch art pen got it a Michels. And for the tempo I just worked around them. but for sealing and protecting the finish Krilon hi-gloss and than a Krilon mat what do you think?

[miriya]

I looks fantastic. Really. The lines are defined but not overdone. The paint job is clean and sleek with good flow of color variation. And the finish looks great. Really sweet.

[miriya]

Have you transformed it yet? I would love to see it in Battroid mode. Also, what color is the pilot on these CF ones?

[hal9000]

Nope I havent transformed it yet, I going to clear coat it mon and let that dry pick tue or wed of gerwalk and battroid, The pilot is Green like hulk green kinda ugly.

What do you guys use for a clear coat, I'm thinking a Hi-gloss then a Mat both krilon.

[misterryno]

Nope I havent transformed it yet, I going to clear coat it mon and let that dry pick tue or wed of gerwalk and battroid, The pilot is Green like hulk green kinda ugly.

What do you guys use for a clear coat, I'm thinking a Hi-gloss then a Mat both krilon.

It all depend on what you want to use....a spray or a brush on. I prefer spray and have recently started using Testors Dull Coat which you could find and Hobby Lobby or Michaels or any other hobby shop I am sure. There has been some rumors a page or 2 back saying that this dull coat will help yellow your figures but there has also been some good defense of it. I used it on my VF-1A after stickering and panel lining for I am feeling that it will not yellow my figure...plus I DO NOT keep my figures near sunlight at all. BTW...GREAT JOB on that SV-51.

[nightmareB4macross]

Great work the both of you Ghostkiller and NMB4M.

NMB4M, what did you use for that larger ladder? Is it scratch built?

Thanks.

Yes the ladder is scratchbuilt (to a certain extent). The steps are pre-fab from Plastruct in 1:48 or "O" which is actually 1:43.

[Excillon]

Nope I havent transformed it yet, I going to clear coat it mon and let that dry pick tue or wed of gerwalk and battroid, The pilot is Green like hulk green kinda ugly.

What do you guys use for a clear coat, I'm thinking a Hi-gloss then a Mat both krilon.

I've personally used both testors flat and gloss, as well as Krylon's. IMO, Krylon has given me better results. I use the "Triple thick" glaze, followed by reg. old Matte coat finish. Just use the Glaze SPARINGLY. The first time I used it I was doing a TF Alternator custom, and I sprayed equal amounts of glaze/matte. I had to coat it in Matte like 4 times to get rid of the shine. Came out great though.

[Excillon]

Sooooooo......when Ron said this.....

You are saying that he is lying? I mean....what does this awesome custom specialist have to gain by giving false information? Can you suggest another type of Dull coat spray that I could find easily?

I don't think he's lying. He's just sharing HIS expierience with it,which is the entire purpose of these threads. Nothing personal, but that response to his statement could have been worded better. It comes off as sounding like instigating.

As for something easier to find, as I said before in the above post, just go to walmart and get Krylon Triple thick glaze, and matte finish. Also, in a pinch, Krylon paints aren't a bad substitute.

[hal9000]

OK so this is a few pics one of every mode and a Big fighter W/boost.

Will post more later I shot almost 400 pics ya 400

[renkenjutsu]

I bet you're expressing how happy you are with your custom with those 400 pics I'm feeling happy looking at it too. Nice work

Edited June 10, 2008 by renkenjutsu

[thegunny]

Sooooooo......when Ron said this.....

You are saying that he is lying? I mean....what does this awesome custom specialist have to gain by giving false information? Can you suggest another type of Dull coat spray that I could find easily?

I'll throw my 2 bobs worth in and state catagorically that I (with I being the operative word) have NEVER had any yellowing with testors Dullcote and I've been using it for well over 20 years. I thin it approx 50/50 with high grade acrylic laquer thinners (not GP thinners) and airbrush it at around 20psi.

[jardann]

Hey HAL, Love that camo on the SV-51! Great job and thanks for showing it off!

[Skull-1]

I'll throw my 2 bobs worth in and state catagorically that I (with I being the operative word) have NEVER had any yellowing with testors Dullcote and I've been using it for well over 20 years. I thin it approx 50/50 with high grade acrylic laquer thinners (not GP thinners) and airbrush it at around 20psi.

That may be the key. In the 24 years I *DID* use it, I took it right out of the can. It yellowed without exception.

Most of my models have white in them, be it paint or markings, and they all yellowed. The older planes and those with heavier coats have the most yellowing. I actually wound up stripping decals off of many planes and redoing them because a Balkankruz looks pretty stupid when it is black and yellow instead of black and white...

[Skull-1]

Sooooooo......when Ron said this.....

You are saying that he is lying? I mean....what does this awesome custom specialist have to gain by giving false information? Can you suggest another type of Dull coat spray that I could find easily?

He isn't lying. That would be too harsh a word even if the parts were somewhat yellow. I would wager that if he were to hold the parts up to something that was as white as when he started the model he would see a difference though.

That said, someone noted that different formulations or mixes could be the culprit. Likewise using thinner coats might be the key. YMMV. There is a *TON* of info on the Internet about yellowing caused by the Testors product. I am simply confirming this to be true in my experience.

I have only been using Mr. Hobby (Gunz-Sanyo) for a year or so... I won't know if it yellows until much later, but it is easily available at your local hobby specialist or online.

Edited June 10, 2008 by Skull-1

[Skull-1]

It all depend on what you want to use....a spray or a brush on. I prefer spray and have recently started using Testors Dull Coat which you could find and Hobby Lobby or Michaels or any other hobby shop I am sure. There has been some rumors a page or 2 back saying that this dull coat will help yellow your figures but there has also been some good defense of it. I used it on my VF-1A after stickering and panel lining for I am feeling that it will not yellow my figure...plus I DO NOT keep my figures near sunlight at all. BTW...GREAT JOB on that SV-51.

Why take the chance when there are other products out there that do NOT have ANY reputation for yellowing?

Frankly, there are enough people out there who have had TESTORS Dullcote yellow that I would avoid it even if I didn't have firsthand experience with the phenomenon.

At the least I would not use it out of the can...

[thegunny]

The Dullcote in the can is more than likely different to the Dullcote in the bottle. This is often the case with model paints.

Just about all the models I've used it on are white or shades of light grey and they are still white or shades of light grey with the decals looking as good as ever (method maybe ).

It's obvious you're on a bit of a crusade to bag Dullcote which is fine but you've made your point once so let misterryno make up his mind without constantly reflogging the same "Dullcote yellows" dead horse.

[misterryno]

The Dullcote in the can is more than likely different to the Dullcote in the bottle. This is often the case with model paints.

Just about all the models I've used it on are white or shades of light grey and they are still white or shades of light grey with the decals looking as good as ever (method maybe ).

It's obvious you're on a bit of a crusade to bag Dullcote which is fine but you've made your point once so let misterryno make up his mind without constantly reflogging the same "Dullcote yellows" dead horse.

Thanks! I hope it does not yellow...but only time will tell eh!?!

[Skull-1]

The Dullcote in the can is more than likely different to the Dullcote in the bottle. This is often the case with model paints.

Just about all the models I've used it on are white or shades of light grey and they are still white or shades of light grey with the decals looking as good as ever (method maybe ).

Well, duh. I already acknowledged that could be the case. HOWEVER, considering I've tried every conceivable method for use with a rattle can (refrigeration, heating in a pot of water, spraying on cold days, hot days, high humidity, low, thick, thin) and seen it yellow over and over again I'm convinced it is crap. Many will concur.

I like the airbrush idea diluted 50/50 but I'm not an airbrusher so that's out for me. Hopefully Mr. Hobby will work...

It's obvious you're on a bit of a crusade to bag Dullcote which is fine but you've made your point once so let misterryno make up his mind without constantly reflogging the same "Dullcote yellows" dead horse.

It's obvious *YOU* don't know how to read. There is no crusade here. Simply an attempt to save a friend (and anyone else who cares to listen and perhaps *RESEARCH* ) a little grief and a LOT of expense.

Hey, if you get fubared when DULLCOTE bites you in the ass just remember you heard it here beforehand.

I, too, hope it works out for anyone who uses it. I have no faith in the product and will never use it again.

[Toboro]

I've used dullcote on three of my custom yamatos straight out of the can with no worries. My two cartoon versions and my Jetfire. All are fine. Try it for yourself. Mine stay out of the sun so maybe that has something to do with it.

[Skull-1]

I've used dullcote on three of my custom yamatos straight out of the can with no worries. My two cartoon versions and my Jetfire. All are fine. Try it for yourself. Mine stay out of the sun so maybe that has something to do with it.

Best of luck regardless. I will say the thinner the coat the better. That seems to be the theme.

[thegunny]

Well, duh. I already acknowledged that could be the case. HOWEVER, considering I've tried every conceivable method for use with a rattle can (refrigeration, heating in a pot of water, spraying on cold days, hot days, high humidity, low, thick, thin) and seen it yellow over and over again I'm convinced it is crap. Many will concur.

I like the airbrush idea diluted 50/50 but I'm not an airbrusher so that's out for me. Hopefully Mr. Hobby will work...

It's obvious *YOU* don't know how to read. There is no crusade here. Simply an attempt to save a friend (and anyone else who cares to listen and perhaps *RESEARCH* ) a little grief and a LOT of expense.

Hey, if you get fubared when DULLCOTE bites you in the ass just remember you heard it here beforehand.

I, too, hope it works out for anyone who uses it. I have no faith in the product and will never use it again.

No need to get narky pal.

You are constantly bagging Dullcote. Let it go. We all know you don't like it so leave it at that. Every time anyone says anything about Dullcote up you pop and start the crusade all over again.

It works for me and it works for others. Accept it and move on

Edited June 12, 2008 by thegunny

[vincenzosk8]

For panel lining :

guys pls avoid markers..........

pls use paint + diluant

apply

and wash the excess with 1OO% diluant with a tissue

Thank you for the trick Ghostkiller.

But, I wonder... if the panel lines are traced over a previous paint, there may be a risk to remove this last one with the 100% diluent ?! Or to blend the black of the lines with the background paint color ?!

I plan to custom my 1/60 Millia's Queadluun-Rau... it will be my first customization... ^^!

[Ghostkiller]

Thank you for the trick Ghostkiller.

But, I wonder... if the panel lines are traced over a previous paint, there may be a risk to remove this last one with the 100% diluent ?! Or to blend the black of the lines with the background paint color ?!

I plan to custom my 1/60 Millia's Queadluun-Rau... it will be my first customization... ^^!

no issue you have to do it softly

I use White Spirit as diluant... it is not too strong

[Ghostkiller]

see the result of my project "VF-1S damaged valk" after finishing the panel lines....

it is a very effective tehnic

[vincenzosk8]

see the result of my project "VF-1S damaged valk" after finishing the panel lines....

it is a very effective tehnic

Okay ! White Spirit ! Thank you ! ^^ Your VF-1S is very impressive ! ^^

On your VF-1S, the panel lines are directly on the plastic, so no risk of blending. Have you got a model with panel lines over custom paint ? Are there any issues when using mat finition instead of glossy finition with this technic ?

I'm currently thinking about proceeding the dark lines (2 mm width) between the very light grey and the dark green on the legs like this :

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/m...toms/tqr-10.jpg

(I haven't start at all - I'm still thinking hard in order to not commit mistakes... I'm waiting for my second Q-Rau in shipping too. ^^!)

Edit : Post Link Problem

Edited June 12, 2008 by vincenzosk8

[Skull-1]

No need to get narky pal.

You are constantly bagging Dullcote. Let it go. We all know you don't like it so leave it at that. Every time anyone says anything about Dullcote up you pop and start the crusade all over again.

It works for me and it works for others. Accept it and move on

And it causes problems for many as well, therefore, I will continue to sound the alarm. Frankly, I wish someone had warned me years and years ago because short of redoing your model there's nothing that can be done to fix it when it turns yellow.

If you don't like it tough.

A word to the wise: thin it out before you use it and use a light LIGHT coating even with that (and if it is in the can shake it for as long as you can stand it before you spray). Someday I may try that 50/50 dillution method if Mr. Hobby proves to do the same thing.

Apparently thre is a different formulation for Europe than the Americas. That can also be an issue.

I've also heard of airbrushers mixing in a few drops of blue to help prevent yellowing. Another idea to keep in mind.

Edited June 12, 2008 by Skull-1

[Ghostkiller]

Okay ! White Spirit ! Thank you ! ^^ Your VF-1S is very impressive ! ^^

On your VF-1S, the panel lines are directly on the plastic, so no risk of blending. Have you got a model with panel lines over custom paint ? Are there any issues when using mat finition instead of glossy finition with this technic ?

I'm currently thinking about proceeding the dark lines (2 mm width) between the very light grey and the dark green on the legs like this :

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/m...toms/tqr-10.jpg

(I haven't start at all - I'm still thinking hard in order to not commit mistakes... I'm waiting for my second Q-Rau in shipping too. ^^!)

Edit : Post Link Problem

my advice will be : be quick !!! and go softly

I recommand to do that on matt finish ! glossy is not for planes lol

another job done but it was weathering + a bit of panel lining

but I have cleaned the excess with white spirit

[vincenzosk8]

my advice will be : be quick !!! and go softly

I recommand to do that on matt finish ! glossy is not for planes lol

another job done but it was weathering + a bit of panel lining

but I have cleaned the excess with white spirit

Wow ! Just one thing to say : Technic totally approved !

Thank you very much !!!

[misterryno]

No need to get narky pal.

You are constantly bagging Dullcote. Let it go. We all know you don't like it so leave it at that. Every time anyone says anything about Dullcote up you pop and start the crusade all over again.

It works for me and it works for others. Accept it and move on

I'll keep using it for I am not afraid and my valks. stay out of the sun. They are all naturally fair skinned and burn easily . Plus...I really like the finish it gives the valk.

[Skull-1]

I'll keep using it for I am not afraid and my valks. stay out of the sun. They are all naturally fair skinned and burn easily . Plus...I really like the finish it gives the valk.

Mine stay out of the sun as well.

Point is, I love the finish but not the yellowing. Keep your eye on it. I'd wager a six-pack it yellows on you. (I hope I'm wrong.)

[ron5864]

I just finished a 1/48-scale support crew and equipment set from Hasegawa for one of our members. The support crew uniform is painted as close to the Macross SDF TV show colors, yellow/tan with red collar.

[Kicker773]

wow ron i love it!

[miriya]

I LOVE the crew!

[MechTech]

Those guys look great Ron! You just need the sound of the Macross air raid siren blasting in the back round!

If you don't mind the humble suggestion, get a thin sheet of clear styrene and a paper hole puncher. For 1/48th, use the punch outs for stands on each foot. They blend color to whatever you put them on. Keep up the awesome work! - MT