warpaint22 Posted February 6, 2008 Posted February 6, 2008 Thats some very nice weathering on that fast pack set genghis, love to see pic's of your valk sounds like you have put a lot of effort in. I'm sure when you get an airbrush you'll be a force to be reconed with . Post some pic's of the 1J when you get a chance. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 6, 2008 Author Posted February 6, 2008 (edited) Hi, this is my first post here Here's what I've been working on for the past week of so. I don't have an air brush. I'm using Gundam marker, pastel chalk, colour pencils and silver paint. Also working on my VF-1J Welcome to Macrossworld. This is looking good so far. Skull-1, those are what I'm talking about! Edited February 6, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
eugimon Posted February 7, 2008 Posted February 7, 2008 That's a great looking bird! I know what you mean about the shoulders though. I haven't touched my vf-0s since I replaced the shoulders but I transformed 1 just for kicks the other night... after transforming the 1/48 vf-1, the vf-0 just seems much more finicky... Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 7, 2008 Author Posted February 7, 2008 (edited) That's a great looking bird! I know what you mean about the shoulders though. I haven't touched my vf-0s since I replaced the shoulders but I transformed 1 just for kicks the other night... after transforming the 1/48 vf-1, the vf-0 just seems much more finicky... I hope the shoulders on this thing hold up. The shoulder halves, socket, and ball joint have been dipped in Future acrylic. Hopefully, this at least strengthens the shoulder halves/biceps if not totally isolates the reacting materials from one another. Shoulders aside, this is a problem: My solution is to take some material from the surrounding areas, but not too much. Edited February 7, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 7, 2008 Author Posted February 7, 2008 (edited) I have to smack myself in the head. I even took pictures of this thing in Gerwalk mode before I noticed that I shot the arms in the wrong color. The lightest shade gray color I used is Testors brand "Light Aircraft Gray," which, I am out of (had this color for years before I used it). Here's where the aggravation begins -- I go to my favorite hobby (model kit) shop only to find out that it is out of business. This is not a short drive for me. I get on the internet and locate another hobby shop within reasonable distance to me. On my lunch break, I spend 45 minutes, round trip, only to be told that "Light Aircraft Gray" has been discontinued and may have changed names (and ID numbers). :angry: Well, I spot Testors brand 1933 "Camouflage Gray" on the shelf, and this looks very much like the gray I used (of course, I didn't have the battroid leg with me to compare. . . ). The helpful gentleman at the hobby shop suggests, "Why don't you just change from 'Light Aircraft Gray' to another shade." LOL. I AM NOT ABOUT TO STRIP OFF THE IRREPLACEABLE DECALS I'VE APPLIED AND TRY TO GET THE LUCKY RATTLE-CAN FADE I MANAGED THE FIRST TIME just because Testors corporation has changed the name and number of the shade I used. Anyway, "Camouflage Gray" works for me, so now that the arms are the correct color, here's a final round of oil wash: edit: If anyone knows for fact that Testors brand "Light Aircraft Gray" has not been discontinued (and that this hobby shop probably just told me this because it didn't have it), then please do not let me know this for my sanity's sake. Edited February 7, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 7, 2008 Author Posted February 7, 2008 (edited) I think I'm going to make a couple of minor changes -- I'm still scratching my head about Tamiya brand Gunship Gray and Gunship Gray 2. Anyway, here's a work-in-progress battroid pic: Edited February 7, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
winterdyne Posted February 7, 2008 Posted February 7, 2008 Looking good! Irreplacable decals? Am I the only one looking at getting into printing them then? Really need to think on how to secure the cash to buy the rig... preferably without taking pre-orders. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 7, 2008 Author Posted February 7, 2008 Looking good! Irreplacable decals? Am I the only one looking at getting into printing them then? Really need to think on how to secure the cash to buy the rig... preferably without taking pre-orders. Maybe "irreplaceable" is a little exaggeration. I do know that some of the decals I used are from discontinued decal sheets. Quote
Fly4victory Posted February 7, 2008 Posted February 7, 2008 (edited) Not as nice as your Sundowner but here is my little project. Edit: The black plastic arms were a first try will try again with cloth. Edited February 7, 2008 by Fly4victory Quote
David Hingtgen Posted February 8, 2008 Posted February 8, 2008 Testors still lists light Aircraft Grey, order it direct if you have to: http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1367 Though most any online shop that sells Testors should have it, it's not from one of their hard-to-find lines like Marine Acrylics... Personally, I've never heard of Testors discontinuing a color. Renaming, once or twice. That particular color's been a staple of theirs for years. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 8, 2008 Author Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) Testors still lists light Aircraft Grey, order it direct if you have to: http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1367 Personally, I've never heard of Testors discontinuing a color. Renaming, once or twice. That color's been a staple of theirs for years. Also, camoflage grey cannot be a match, that's too light, and it's a US color to boot. (Light Aircraft grey is a UK color, it's the belly color of the Tornado and Typhoon) It's possible I recall the color name wrong, but I'm fairly sure I recall it right. Camouflage gray isn't a perfect match, but with all the dirtying up, it's not an issue. Edited February 8, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
PsYcHoDyNaMiX Posted February 8, 2008 Posted February 8, 2008 Looks like a pretty good match from the looks of it. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 8, 2008 Author Posted February 8, 2008 Looks like a pretty good match from the looks of it. Lots of fudging and smudging. Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 8, 2008 Posted February 8, 2008 perfect white done only I might be a sick crazy head but I sand a re did some part due some unnoticeable dust marking due to the airspray apply the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part I want to play with it dammage free !! a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! for the blue part I might have found a good spray maybe more news later Quote
David Hingtgen Posted February 8, 2008 Posted February 8, 2008 I have an INSANELY critical eye when it comes to "shades of grey matching". 99.9% of the world may say two colors match, and I'll say "no, the wings are a slightly warmer shade of grey than the belly". It comes up in aircraft modeling forums I go to. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 8, 2008 Author Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) LOL @ David Hingtgen. I know plenty of people like you, when it comes to color. Luckily for me, my project isn't automotive paint. Close enough works for me on a weather beaten combat aircraft. Here's a fun game to play: how many different aircraft grays do you see in the pics I've posted. Note to other members: David Hingtgen is our forum's reigning champ when it comes to "Name Those Colors." the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part I want to play with it dammage free !! a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! I'm with you on the TOY emphasis. I don't know if you've addressed this area, or not, but the back of the battroid shoulder is prone to minor paint scraping (the bottom black colored part of the shoulder). Edited February 8, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
genghis Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Hi again. Finally got my modem working. I have finally finish doing up the VF-1J and the Striker parts. My dial-up modem is wayyy tooo slllowww. I bore shallow holes on the head machine guns so that they look like well... machine guns Will load in more pics when I can get faster connection! Happy Lunar New Year to all at MacrossWorld! Quote
EXO Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 man, this thread rocks. Thanks Wicked Ace and others! Quote
badboy00z Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 perfect white done only I might be a sick crazy head but I sand a re did some part due some unnoticeable dust marking due to the airspray apply the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part I want to play with it dammage free !! a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! for the blue part I might have found a good spray maybe more news later Will you be filling in the seam lines? Also so a clear coat would help prevent major paint scratches. Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Will you be filling in the seam lines? Also so a clear coat would help prevent major paint scratches. that is the base job I will flat clear the baby when alll done Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Wicked Ace refers to the use of Future in the modeling world I found this link which is very helpfull I read that I could even use it to get a red head visor or blue creating your own shades of transparent colors http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 just started the supernova blue paint job scheme on the 19 It is quite a hard scheme to match on the toy straight lines are difficult wish me luck !! ps : Charger69 now you have your teaser lol Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 10, 2008 Author Posted February 10, 2008 just started the supernova blue paint job scheme on the 19 It is quite a hard scheme to match on the toy straight lines are difficult wish me luck !! That blue works pretty well as far as I can tell with the lighting in your pic. Quote
David Hingtgen Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 I like that shade of blue, too. Quote
eugimon Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 that is a sexy shade of blue. paint faster! Quote
charger69 Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 (edited) Woo hoo! Nice bluee, me likes Edited February 10, 2008 by charger69 Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 the blue is actually darker but under heavy lights or the day light it turns out to be nice blue.... the small blue lines are going to be a pain to do thks guys Quote
warpaint22 Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 Lookin nice, that is a nice blue...we all like the blue But yes paint faster can't wait to see this one even just in final paint...cool job. Quote
Fly4victory Posted February 11, 2008 Posted February 11, 2008 Pin-striping with paint is a lost art. Wow, Your VF-19 will look great when finished. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 11, 2008 Author Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) the small blue lines are going to be a pain to do I thought you had a plan already -- it's going to be a real pain without the Super Nove scheme decals. Ghostkiller, have fun with the pin striping that goes with the Super Nova scheme. edit: I am as anxious as everyone else to see this blue Super Nova scheme. Keep the progress pics coming. Edited February 11, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote
winterdyne Posted February 11, 2008 Posted February 11, 2008 Pin-striping with paint is a lost art. A good trick for long fine stripes is to put two blades into your knife, with a spacer between them to spread them apart. Use a good-edged steel ruler and very little sideways pressure and you can cut a very thin strip of masking tape. Still need to be careful with applying it, but I've seen this trick used for pinstriping trousers on large scale figures. Looks like a good method, but have yet to try it myself. Quote
Wicked Ace Posted February 11, 2008 Author Posted February 11, 2008 A good trick for long fine stripes is to put two blades into your knife, with a spacer between them to spread them apart. Use a good-edged steel ruler and very little sideways pressure and you can cut a very thin strip of masking tape. Still need to be careful with applying it, but I've seen this trick used for pinstriping trousers on large scale figures. Looks like a good method, but have yet to try it myself. This is why I love threads like this. Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 11, 2008 Posted February 11, 2008 I was thinking about engraving the bird with the line then the paint stays in between the 2 lines Will figure out thaks gus !!!!!!!!!! Quote
Ghostkiller Posted February 11, 2008 Posted February 11, 2008 even with tamiya tape the line is not perfectly done IMO should I double tape then to get correct lines ??? You can tell on the edge that the blue is siting a little bit higher I may have to gentle sand with wet sandpaper to even the paint I think Maybe my blue is to thick ............... Quote
Grand Admiral Posted February 11, 2008 Posted February 11, 2008 Ok, this will probably drive you guys nuts. Quote
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