How do you eliminate brush strokes?

[Vifam7]

I've read all sorts of things on how to prevent brush strokes when painting but I'm still somewhat confused.

Generally the more layers I put on the less obvious the brush strokes.. correct?

Even though I use acrylics it's better to thin it down... correct?

I started painting more parts but it's brush strokes galore. Granted it's only the first layer.

Any further tips appreciated.

[David Hingtgen]

I find acrylics to be far better for preventing brush strokes, but it still varies brand-by-brand. I like Pollyscale the best by far followed by Testor's Acryl.

Also--thinner's better, but don't go so thin it dries before it self-levels.

Tried flow-aid? Hunt it down, it helps. http://www.liquitex.com/Products/addflowaid.cfm Found mine at a Dick Blick, but any art store etc should have it. Works for both brushing and spraying. Does reduce opacity just a tad. But 3 good coats looks a lot better than 2 "ok" coats.

SOFT brush. LONG bristles. Minimal strokes (match brush size to area being painted). Assume 10 sec working time.

[Excillon]

By an airbrush or use Spray paint !!!!!!!

Seriously though, I just play around with thinner until I get it right.

[big F]

Yeah thinners works for me too that and fine quality long brushes as mentioned before.

[Skull-1]

Long straight strokes with a wide brush make for a smooth job.

Do not go over the same spot more than a couple of times. As the paint congeals it becomes streakier.

[Vifam7]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Looks like I need to thin my paints a bit before application. I got some terrible streaks on my parts. I guess I'll try to cover it up with the next few layers.

Which is better for Vallejo acrylics? Thinning with water or thinning with thinner?

[big F]

Thinners works for me but some use water but the best thinning agent would be what the Manufacturer of the paint suggests. You can use ISO alcohol with most acrylics. Mostly it can be down to your personal preference at the end of the day.

[winterdyne]

To avoid brush strokes:

1) Use thin paint! Your paint should go on wet so it can self-level, and not so thick that it holds the stroke. Thinners for a brand of paint will usually tend to work best (as they're formulated for that purpose). For tamiya / gunze-sangyo the iso-alcohol / water mix works, for citadel/vallejo just water with an optional drop of washing-up liquid works pretty well too.

2) Use a long-bristle SOFT brush. Hard brushes will pull the paint off the surface, soft brushes will flex and be drawn off the paint, allowing it to self level.

3) Vary direction - work roughly perpendicular to the coat beneath.

4) If necessary, gently sand with very fine sandpaper. This is more used on larger areas, and depends greatly on the 'sandability' of the paint. Tamiya paints sand well as did humbrol acrylics back in the day (they're dry, powdery in finish), citadel / vallejo sand very badly (they're more rubbery in finish).

[redfinger61]

equal parts future + equal parts acrylic paint = a nice even mix for a brush mark free application, works for me...

Ashton

[Noyhauser]

To avoid brush strokes:

1) Use thin paint! Your paint should go on wet so it can self-level, and not so thick that it holds the stroke. Thinners for a brand of paint will usually tend to work best (as they're formulated for that purpose). For tamiya / gunze-sangyo the iso-alcohol / water mix works,

One thing I've found with Tamiya is that they did something to the formulation which forces you to use their thinner. If you don't I've found that white streaks start to occur and it pools differently (for the worse).

[Valkyrie addict]

good tips here...thanks guys

[Vifam7]

good tips here...thanks guys

I'm starting to learn. I've found out that handbrushing anything part larger than a postage stamp is a no-go. I'm finding out that it's much better to use a spraycan (I don't have an airbrush) for anything larger.

I have to seriously consider getting an airbrush. Unfortunately my home simply won't allow for the use of an airbrush. And it's too cold outside.

[MechTech]

My advice, spray it outside (even in cold weather is alright) then quickly bring it in and stick it in a closet or a room no one is using. The fumes can still be strong so make sure it's not your boiler room . I hate airbrushing, even though I have two sets. When I can get away with it, I use a rattle can. Enamels seem to hold up better to wear anyhow. Less mess and cleaning too. - MT

[Skull-1]

I'm starting to learn. I've found out that handbrushing anything part larger than a postage stamp is a no-go. I'm finding out that it's much better to use a spraycan (I don't have an airbrush) for anything larger.

I have to seriously consider getting an airbrush. Unfortunately my home simply won't allow for the use of an airbrush. And it's too cold outside.

I hand paint nearly all my models. From 1/120 Macross to 1/48 World War II fighters. It all depends on how you do it. If you are working with flat enamels you can get great results with a brush. The wider the brush the better and yes, short bristles are bad for streaks.

Edited January 23, 2008 by Skull-1

[winterdyne]

One thing I've found with Tamiya is that they did something to the formulation which forces you to use their thinner. If you don't I've found that white streaks start to occur and it pools differently (for the worse).

Hmm. I was brush painting white... seemed to work fine. I generally do use the proper thinners though. I can't see the point in shirking a few quid on painting supplies and possibly messing up an expensive toy or model.

[Skull-1]

Hmm. I was brush painting white... seemed to work fine. I generally do use the proper thinners though. I can't see the point in shirking a few quid on painting supplies and possibly messing up an expensive toy or model.

This is sage advice.

The price of doing it right the first time is always cheaper than repeating after you've f'ed it up being an impatient dolt.

<S>

[Vifam7]

My advice, spray it outside (even in cold weather is alright) then quickly bring it in and stick it in a closet or a room no one is using. The fumes can still be strong so make sure it's not your boiler room . I hate airbrushing, even though I have two sets. When I can get away with it, I use a rattle can. Enamels seem to hold up better to wear anyhow. Less mess and cleaning too. - MT

??

I thought Acrylics were less of a mess? Being washable with water and easy to strip with thinner...

[winterdyne]

The stuff you get in a rattlecan is often enamel - MechTech's referring to the fact there's less cleanup time after a rattlecan paint session.

[Vifam7]

One thing I've found with Tamiya is that they did something to the formulation which forces you to use their thinner. If you don't I've found that white streaks start to occur and it pools differently (for the worse).

Hmm. I was brush painting white... seemed to work fine. I generally do use the proper thinners though. I can't see the point in shirking a few quid on painting supplies and possibly messing up an expensive toy or model.

Damn, you guys are right. I'm working with 2 brands of paint right now - Tamiya and Vallejo. Found out that if I mix Tamiya brand thinner with Tamiya brand paint, the paint is brushing much better. Not sure if this is the right way but I'm getting better results by lightly dipping the brush in Tamiya thinner then dip into the paint then brushing onto the plastic.

Still having trouble with Vallejo paint using just plain water. Either too watery or too thick.

[winterdyne]

With the vallejo paints, try having a drop of washing up liquid on your palette and mix a tiny amount in when you thin the paint.

[Noyhauser]

Damn, you guys are right. I'm working with 2 brands of paint right now - Tamiya and Vallejo. Found out that if I mix Tamiya brand thinner with Tamiya brand paint, the paint is brushing much better. Not sure if this is the right way but I'm getting better results by lightly dipping the brush in Tamiya thinner then dip into the paint then brushing onto the plastic.

Still having trouble with Vallejo paint using just plain water. Either too watery or too thick.

I was reading around because of this thread and it apparently the secret ingredient is glycol, which acts as an "drying retarder."

Overall I've found that Tamiya likely near the top for airbrushing, but its too temperamental as a brush paint. You get one shot with it for brushing it on, because it doesn't go on well with a second coat.

[Vince]

brush strokes happen because the paint is drying too fast and too thick, before the days of retarder, we thin the paint and remember to brush in the same direction for one (thin) coat wait until it's somewhat dry, then apply the next coat across the direction of the previous coat. repeat as needed. air brush ready paints are generally too thin for hand brushing. do it right the result can be almost as good as air brush.