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Posted (edited)
It sounds bad but is not really that hard

QFT. Yamato valks are *designed* with customisers in mind I'm sure. The plastic sands well, takes paint well, they come apart easy and (better yet) go back together pretty easy. The hardest thing will be matching the blue. That said, chances are there's a tamiya shade that matches exactly.

Edit: If you're planning on painting the back side, I'd advise against sanding it if you can help it- try the oven cleaner and scrubbing brush method first. Otherwise, you'll have to polish it up to get a nice finish.

Edited by winterdyne
Posted

Yes, if you're sensible. The only tricky bits are removing the screw covers from the leg and getting the canopy off. Everything else just unscrews nicely or is held on with a pin that you can push out with a pointy tool then remove with pliers. Make sure you use a good screwdriver and plenty of pressure as some of the screws are quite tight, and ruining the screw head is not good.

For the screw covers I found it best to use a VERY sharp, VERY pointy knife (or a dressmakers pin) to prise it up - anything else will scratch the surrounding area (meaning sanding / filling work). The canopy is held on by a part that's quite firmly attached over the top of the hinge. I reckon the only way to get it off is to snap it off (but it should glue back fine, especially if pinned).

Posted
QFT. Yamato valks are *designed* with customisers in mind I'm sure. The plastic sands well, takes paint well, they come apart easy and (better yet) go back together pretty easy. The hardest thing will be matching the blue. That said, chances are there's a tamiya shade that matches exactly.

Edit: If you're planning on painting the back side, I'd advise against sanding it if you can help it- try the oven cleaner and scrubbing brush method first. Otherwise, you'll have to polish it up to get a nice finish.

Thanks winterdyne. B))

Posted (edited)

I don't know anything about pine-sol. For the oven cleaner, I put my parts in a clear plastic take-away food tray, with lid. Spray the foam over it, cover it, and put it aside. You'll be able to see when the foam's died down, at which point rinse and scrub with an old toothbrush or nail brush. You'll probably need to repeat a few times. Seems to take a couple of hours for the foam to die down. Depending on the paint, you may need 3-4 repeats to clean something up well.

Edited by winterdyne
Posted
Oven cleaner works very well.

Thanks

easy off takes care of the enamel, a little acrylic, and might turn lacquer into a mess.

other than enamel, safest thing to do is find out what brand and type of paint and wipe of with their thinner.

you'll know when to stop.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

OK, sorry if this has already been answered... But....

What can I use to paint strip a revoltech or Fraulein figure? I think they are Vinyl and I do not want to melt them.

Also....

What can I use to paint strip a Mighty Muggs? which I think is PCV or Vinyl.

Posted
Just reporting back, the Pine Sol didn't really help very much with the Testors enamel paint. It softened the paint but did not remove it.

I'm primering and re-painting everything. <_<

Pine Sol works flawlessly in my experience with it over the past five years or so. It requires patience, but I am confident that it does not damage the underlying plastic.

I am not willing to take the chance on oven cleaner or brake fluid. If it is powerful enough to strip paint off that quickly then it is probably causing harm to the underlying surface.

Posted
I am not willing to take the chance on oven cleaner or brake fluid. If it is powerful enough to strip paint off that quickly then it is probably causing harm to the underlying surface.

Ive tried it mostly on Chunkys and even the cheap ass $5 ones come out the otherside ok.

It really only effects the oil base in the paint. it just softens the paint in the same way it softens the grease and gunk in your oven. The only reason it works well on the model paint is because its like the grease it sits on top of the plastic surface and doesnt penitrate the plastic/metal underneath, etching primer would be a differnet matter.

I can underatand everyones aprehensiveness over this though. I have used it on UPVC window frames and my turbo oven for years and have had no effects to the various plastics etc. The only stripper you should be worried about is anything that is solvent based oven foam cleaner and brakefluid are not. Not sure whats in Pine Sol as i cant get it in the U.K but as others are more than happy both here and in othe rforums then it's safe to say its ok.

Posted
It really only effects the oil base in the paint.

Well what's the primary ingredient in plastic if not oil or petroleum of some sort? YIKES. :)

Posted (edited)

I had a bad experience with Brake Fluid, it took forever to remove the paint and ate the underlying plastic on a blast shield, it made it real soft and doughy. I still haven't tried anything to remove the paint on my new Blast shield, but Brasso, steel wool and 1250 sand paper seem to be doing the trick for the other parts of my Valkyrie. II am just apprehensive on anything clear.

Edited by MacrossA
Posted

I just soaked my Mighty Muggs Han Solo in Pine Sol for 24 Hours and it has not effected the paint whatsoever. Do I need to soak it longer or use a different product. I may try the OOPS or the Brasso next week. Any thoughts?

Posted
I just soaked my Mighty Muggs Han Solo in Pine Sol for 24 Hours and it has not effected the paint whatsoever. Do I need to soak it longer or use a different product. I may try the OOPS or the Brasso next week. Any thoughts?

I left my JetFire parts to soak for like 48 hours min. and it helped a little bit. I am sure there are better easier ways than the PineSol method which also makes your house smell funny <_<

:ph34r:

Posted (edited)
I left my JetFire parts to soak for like 48 hours min. and it helped a little bit. I am sure there are better easier ways than the PineSol method which also makes your house smell funny <_<

:ph34r:

Soak in PineSol for a minimum of a week. One or two days won't do much.

Also, use a sealed Tupperware-like container. No smell. I use the Lemon scented PineSol regardless as it is easier on the nose when I do open it up. Works flawlessly.

Edited by Skull-1
Posted
Soak in PineSol for a minimum of a week. One or two days won't do much.

Also, use a sealed Tupperware-like container. No smell. I use the Lemon scented PineSol regardless as it is easier on the nose when I do open it up. Works flawlessly.

Thanks! I will let little Han sit in there for a week!

Posted
Soak in PineSol for a minimum of a week. One or two days won't do much.

Also, use a sealed Tupperware-like container. No smell. I use the Lemon scented PineSol regardless as it is easier on the nose when I do open it up. Works flawlessly.

Thanks...I will try this again. I did'nt seal the ware. It may help quite a bit as you say. THANKS AGAIN.

:ph34r:

Posted
Thanks! I will let little Han sit in there for a week!

Give it time and the paint will begin to bubble and flake...

Then give it a good scrub with a bristle brush and re-soak as needed.

Posted
Give it time and the paint will begin to bubble and flake...

Then give it a good scrub with a bristle brush and re-soak as needed.

Great! Thanks for the help! I will do that and report in a week!

Posted

Oven cleaner can be the same. You spray it on leave it and nothing happens do it three times and by the third the paint is all flaky and washes off with water and a nail brush. Other times the mere mention of the stuff has the paint all falling off.

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