Need advice on paint stripping.

[Grand Admiral]

Hi everyone,

I need some suggestions on stripping Testors enamel paint from a 1/48 valk. I buggered up a project and I need to correct it, if possible.

The basic off-white color is the plastic color, so if I can strip the paint effectively, I can simply re-paint to achieve what I wanted to do in the first place.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

[Skull-1]

1) Paint thinner dipped rag. Wipe as necessary until paint gone.

2) Lemon-Scented Pine-Sol Soak. Submerge it in that for a week or ten days. This will remove all paint on the part.

[Grand Admiral]

Ok, thanks. Might try the Pine Sol method. I already tried the paint thinner wipe and it really smears the paint around pretty badly.

Pine Sol isn't going to melt the plastic, is it?

[winterdyne]

Assuming you want to clean the entire part you have a few options:

1) Oven Cleaner. One of the nasty caustic ones may lift the paint, and shouldn't harm the plastic. Mr Muscle is a UK brand. Apply, leave for a couple of hours, and scrub with a old toothbrush. Repeat if it seems to be working. Oh, wear gloves!

2) Enamel Thinner, q-tips and elbow grease. The thinner should work on the enamel, but may attack the plastic. Use sparing amounts of solvent on the q-tip, apply with one end and almost immediately remove with the other and be prepared to spend a long time. If you're really brave, use cellulose thinner (lacquer thinner). This will remove the paint, and will attack the plastic. Be prepared to deal with abrasion marks and stuck fibers from the q-tip. And note that if the q-tip's not real cotton, the thinner will disolve it. Use if you're in a hurry, and don't mind sanding the part down again, or plan to polish it up. DO NOT USE solvents on the canopy. Repolishing canopies is a lot of work.

3) Sand it off. 600 grit paper's fine. Should leave a fairly scuffed surface, good for re-priming and repainting. Use finer grades to smooth the finish, and polish in light motions, varying the stroke as you progress through grades. You will need to wash the part repeatedly as you go.

4) Wadding type metal polish. This lifts paint fairly well, but can polish the plastic (actually had the legs on my valk with a mirror finish at one stage). Lightly sand to roughen it.

Note that all of these with the exception of the oven cleaner will change the finish of the plastic. Not so bad if you're repainting the whole part, but may not help you if you're just trying to remove a stripe.

If you need to sharpen up a line due to overspray this trick works (but is tricky to master on a painted surface). Get a straight razor blade. VERY gently touch down the razor's edge on the line you want to trim to. Now shave toward that line with the razor, putting no pressure on it (just let the weight of the razor do the work). If you put too much pressure on, you'll scratch the surface underneath. Also make sure there's no dust or other foreign material on the surface. What should happen is the dry paint will flake off the underlying surface, but when you come to the scored line the flakes will break on that stress line leaving you with a neater edge. The razor for this has to be exceptionally sharp - thinner than the thickness of paint you're trying to remove, and it has to have a dead straight edge. If it's not sharp enough, or the edge is ruined, you'll get scratches.

[Grand Admiral]

Thanks for the tips. I'm currently trying the Pine Sol method, I'll see how that turns out.

[warpaint22]

You could also try a product called ELO ( Easy-Lift-off) made by Polly S ( Testors), it's a model paint and decal remover that works on most paint but really works well with enamel paint. Apply, let it soak into the paint, wait for the paint to crinkle, then scrub with toothbrush. I've just used it to great effect but be warned the vapor is very harmful and combustibale. Great product though and wont eat any plastic.

[winterdyne]

Any idea what a UK brand for that would be? Sounds good stuff, but such things are expensive when imported. :-(

[thegunny]

Plain old brake fluid. Any type except silicon. Won't hurt the plastic.

[warpaint22]

Any idea what a UK brand for that would be? Sounds good stuff, but such things are expensive when imported. :-(

Well over here it is just sold with the testors paints, I mate grabbed it for me I think at a model railway store. I think it was designed more for scale railroad modelers as I haven't seen it in any basic hobby shops but that's nothing new over here. Try any hobby stores that carry a large range and it should be there, it's bottle size is 2 FL. OZ and that's $10.00 AUD but it seems to go a long way. Testor products are hell expensive so I rarely go nere them.

[Grand Admiral]

Plain old brake fluid. Any type except silicon. Won't hurt the plastic.

Will brake fluid strip the paint quickly, or is it something I would need to soak the parts in for an extended time?

[emajnthis]

i've used denatured alcohol to remove paint from toys (transformers, GI Joe's, etc.), but can't say i've done it on a 1/48 so i dunno how it will affect the plastic.

[Grand Admiral]

I just checked the parts and used a toothbrush to scrub a wing. The paint was loosened up a lot, but unfortunately it smeared around and still stuck to the plastic. Strangely, the existing tampo printing was unaffected.

I'm hoping that further soaking will help.

Edited January 2, 2008 by Grand Admiral

[big F]

I have heard good things about break fluid, it's not the most environmentally good product as your supposed to dispose of it in the chemical disposal at the local Amenity dump or at a Car/Truck repair shop. Do not pour it down the drain when your done You can get seriously fined for it by the local authorities if seen or caught. You can use it more than once though if you strain out all the paint bits with an old tea strainer or the like.

Oven foam cleaner like MR Muscle is great just get a plastic container (I use an old measuring jug) put the parts in and spray in enough to cover them place it somewhere quite out side or in the shed etc and leave for a few hours. then do exactly as winterdyne says. Do it out side if pos as the stuff is not the most healthy of things to breath in.

Edited January 2, 2008 by big F

[Skull-1]

I just checked the parts and used a toothbrush to scrub a wing. The paint was loosened up a lot, but unfortunately it smeared around and still stuck to the plastic. Strangely, the existing tampo printing was unaffected.

I'm hoping that further soaking will help.

Leave it in PINE-SOL for a week and do not touch it.

Just let it soak.

Trust me.

The reason it takes a long time is the thing that keeps your plastic safe. You don't want to dip it into something that's gonna' eat the plastic.

I remember once as a kid soaking a model in paint thinner. HA HAHAHAHA! Woops.

[Grand Admiral]

Leave it in PINE-SOL for a week and do not touch it.

Just let it soak.

Trust me.

The reason it takes a long time is the thing that keeps your plastic safe. You don't want to dip it into something that's gonna' eat the plastic.

I remember once as a kid soaking a model in paint thinner. HA HAHAHAHA! Woops.

Does the Pine Sol completely dissolve the paint, or will I be left with residue?

The parts either need to be 100% clean or I need to buy a new valk and just use these parts to make some other kind of custom.

[Skull-1]

Does the Pine Sol completely dissolve the paint, or will I be left with residue?

The parts either need to be 100% clean or I need to buy a new valk and just use these parts to make some other kind of custom.

The longer you soak it the cleaner it will get.

It depends on your patience level.

It should remove EVERYTHING.

[Grand Admiral]

Ok, I'll keep it in the Pine Sol for a week and see where I'm at. Thanks.

[thegunny]

Will brake fluid strip the paint quickly, or is it something I would need to soak the parts in for an extended time?

Depends on the type of paint.

I've had paint literally peel off as the brake fluid touches it and in other instances it has taken a few days.

Just make sure you wash it all off as it will eat any new paint you put over the top

Best thing about it is that it's cheap, re-usable & will not harm the plastic. I've had plastic figures (both poly prop (soft plastic) & poly styrene (hard plastic)) soaking in it for months and no damage to them what so ever.

[Sonic]

I found that using either oven cleaner or car degrease will do the job.

Just spray the thing on and leave it in a small plastic container for an hour or so then come back with a tooth brush and scrub off the paint.

I also recently did a complete paint strip.

[big F]

I remember once as a kid soaking a model in paint thinner. HA HAHAHAHA! Woops.

LOL me too

Bye Bye Toy... Sniff sniff

[do not disturb]

brasso and steel wool works well.

or try the chameleon paint remover....google it.

[mojacko]

for acrylic paints....i used Mr Muscle (kitchen/oven cleaner)...works like wonder!!!

abt brake fluids...ive read somewhere...that the more you use it on your toy....the plastic becomes brittle...??? is this true guys???

Edited January 4, 2008 by mojacko

[misterryno]

Hey all, I was looking to try the Pine Sol method on a 1/55 Jet Fire. Will this method hurt/discolor the die cast parts if I don't feel like taking him totally apart? Or will I need to take the figure completely apart and then hope to remember how to put him back together again?

[thegunny]

for acrylic paints....i used Mr Muscle (kitchen/oven cleaner)...works like wonder!!!

abt brake fluids...ive read somewhere...that the more you use it on your toy....the plastic becomes brittle...??? is this true guys???

Never happened to me and I've been using brake fluid to strip various types of plastic for years. You just have to make sure you use every day plain old brake fluid. Some of the more high performance brake fluids may have additives that could effect some types of plastic but they are expensive and you are wasting your money because you only want it to strip paint not stop you from 200mph

[misterryno]

Hey all, I was looking to try the Pine Sol method on a 1/55 Jet Fire. Will this method hurt/discolor the die cast parts if I don't feel like taking him totally apart? Or will I need to take the figure completely apart and then hope to remember how to put him back together again?

Anybody have an answer too this???

[nightmareB4macross]

Anybody have an answer too this???

Take the figure completely apart and submerge the plastic parts only, in a bath of Pine-Sol for a period of 24 hours. From what I've seen, it doesn't alter nor degrade the plastic in any way.

DO NOT soak the metal parts or they will begin to rust.

[misterryno]

Take the figure completely apart and submerge the plastic parts only, in a bath of Pine-Sol for a period of 24 hours. From what I've seen, it doesn't alter nor degrade the plastic in any way.

DO NOT soak the metal parts or they will begin to rust.

THANKS ALOT!!! I will start this project tonight then.

[ruskiiVFaussie]

Hey guys, umm, how about the heatsheild plastic? Just use paint thinner and else that is recommended in the thread already?

I ask this because a fellow macross worlder is in need to mod a sparey heatsheild. and now i'm questioning if the heatsheild is actually molded in the colour as is (like Vf-1A Hikky red). Is this the case? Paint over maybe? Please help. Thanks guys.

Edited January 27, 2008 by ruskiiVFaussie

[winterdyne]

1/48 heatshields are made of the same stuff as the canopy. Oven Cleaner works, but bear in mind it's the *back* surface that's painted (cos it receives less scratching). On my custom I painted the whole thing (looks better) but you must sand it down well and give it a good thick coat of future to protect it, and also sand the chestplate to provide a little extra clearance.

[MechTech]

The Pine Sol should be like a mild turpentine - same source for the base - pine sap. I had no idea about the power of Pine Sol. I soaked some old aircraft parts in it for restoration and it got the gunk and paint off !!! - MT

[altermodes]

Hey guys, umm, how about the heatsheild plastic? Just use paint thinner and else that is recommended in the thread already?

I ask this because a fellow macross worlder is in need to mod a sparey heatsheild. and now i'm questioning if the heatsheild is actually molded in the colour as is (like Vf-1A Hikky red). Is this the case? Paint over maybe? Please help. Thanks guys.

Thanks ruskiiVFaussie, for asking on behalf....

1/48 heatshields are made of the same stuff as the canopy. Oven Cleaner works, but bear in mind it's the *back* surface that's painted (cos it receives less scratching). On my custom I painted the whole thing (looks better) but you must sand it down well and give it a good thick coat of future to protect it, and also sand the chestplate to provide a little extra clearance.

As i'm new to doing anything like this (please forgive ).......

What type of sandpaper?

and is that any oven cleaner?

Edited January 28, 2008 by altermodes

[winterdyne]

The sandpaper I use is from the local auto shop - all are 'wet and dry', in a range of grits - 320 (very coarse - only use where you need to remove a lot of material), 600 (general surfacing prior to painting / priming) and 1200 (between coats). I don't bother with sanding the canopy, but if you do, you need to use 1200 grit, and then a polishing compound (toothpaste works) and then future. Work wet on the raw plastic and allow to dry fully before painting.

The oven cleaner is UK Mr Muscle brand, a foaming type. Strips paint but the vapour is terrible - makes me retch and cough, so don't work with this in enclosed space - I put the parts in a carton from a chinese take away (plastic tray type) spray the foam over them, then put the lid on. Seems to contain the fumes.

[altermodes]

The sandpaper I use is from the local auto shop - all are 'wet and dry', in a range of grits - 320 (very coarse - only use where you need to remove a lot of material), 600 (general surfacing prior to painting / priming) and 1200 (between coats). I don't bother with sanding the canopy, but if you do, you need to use 1200 grit, and then a polishing compound (toothpaste works) and then future. Work wet on the raw plastic and allow to dry fully before painting.

The oven cleaner is UK Mr Muscle brand, a foaming type. Strips paint but the vapour is terrible - makes me retch and cough, so don't work with this in enclosed space - I put the parts in a carton from a chinese take away (plastic tray type) spray the foam over them, then put the lid on. Seems to contain the fumes.

ok thanks .....

now i have to bring up the courage to do this......

As the only reason, i want to repaint this heat shield is that the 1/48 Super Max i recently got didn't come with a heat shield.

[big F]

ok thanks .....

now i have to bring up the courage to do this......

As the only reason, i want to repaint this heat shield is that the 1/48 Super Max i recently got didn't come with a heat shield.

It sounds bad but is not really that hard

[altermodes]

It sounds bad but is not really that hard