My first Battroid Model Kit Weathering

[Sonic]

Hi all

Here is my first weathering of my Battroid Model Kit

If there are any tips please post.

[Excillon]

Welcome! You've got a nice effect going, really. Only two things I can see need fixing. One is you've got some seams going on by the legs. Two is the consistency of the weathering. It seems heavier from the torso up, I'd add more to the legs and panel lines. Also, since you've got a really good battle effect going on, maybe add a few scratches/gouges, or even some bulletholes!

Edited December 6, 2007 by Excillon

[Sonic]

Thanks.

Yeah i still need more work on the legs it's still not fully completed yet. I only work on this when I have free time.

I am getting into airbrushing, just got myself a nice air compressor however the airbrush I was using was cheap and nasty. If anyone has any recommendation on airbrushes that allow really nice fine detailing, please let me know.

Thanks again for the comments and the welcome.

[Valkyrie addict]

Good stuff, nice to see a fellow modeller on the verge of improving his skills, that's one beat up VF-0S, like it, but I have to point out what was said already for your coming models

to need to work on the seam like, a lot of extra work with the sanding, putty, priming, etc etc, but really add to the finished models

as for airbrushing, I've heard very good stuff about the IWATA Eclipse airbrush

[Sonic]

Thanks. Yeah I really want to improve my modeller skills so I don't have to make all my macross models look like beaten up VF's. The reason I went for the smashed up look because I didn't have a good airbrush, I just used spray cans. What primer do I use to fill up the gaps? Can i use the primer from the spray cans? Or do I need to buy airbrush primer?

So you prime your models once you have them glued, then put on the paint coat?

I will look in on the IWATA Eclipse airbrush.

I just bought myself a Professional Air Brush Kit Spray Gun Airbrush # SL-130 from ebay. I am still waiting for it to come in.

Does anyone have any url's showing the steps a professional modeller would take from start of a model kit to the end?

Thanks in advance.

[Valkyrie addict]

oh man...there are several great post around here about steps by steps as well as many links, for the moment you can check this out, lots of tips

Top Ten Tips For First Timers

you should look up MW Chen build up, as well as Drunken Master...their work is amazing

[big F]

you should look up MW Chen build up, as well as Drunken Master...their work is amazing

Amen to that.

Also check out http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/

Theres loads to look at (both real planes and models) and bus loads of tips etc.

[MechTech]

Welcome Sonic! I agree with my fellow MWers and would like to add that you do a "search" for whatever questions you may have. It has probably been done here before! You'd be surprised what you can find around here. I used to subscribe to Fine Scale Modeler. I still buy it occasionally, but with all the help around here and the ability to ask questions (like you did), this "place" has what you need. Keep up on your skills! - MT

[warpaint22]

Hey sonic I'll send you some of my step by steps of the fighters pic's that I've sent you. Great to see you on here. I'll try and get the pic's off today.

[Sonic]

Thanks Steve for all the pics.

Thanks for the tips guys I'll search up MW.

Looks like I just found myself a great forum to hangout. Seems like I am putting my modeling skills in second gear by just hanging here.

[jardann]

Welcome to the boards Sonic! As everyone else has said, fixing the seam lines on your model will be the first thing to do and will greatly improve the appearance. (I hate fixing seam lines by the way and it is an area of my own modelling that needs great improvement as well ) It needs to be done before painting and weathering.

You will need some filler putty to fix those seams, not primer. I suggest Tamiya basic putty. A lot of other people really like a product called Mr. Surfacer. It comes in different consistencies and can be brushed on, then filed/sanded down. Still others use super glue. If you use super glue, make sure you sand it smooth within about 15 minutes or else it will become much harder than the model plastic and will be very difficult to sand. These techniques can be explained (and are explained on many web sites), but really only improve with practice.

Keep up the good work! It looks like you are off to a very good start, and we all love to see examples of each other's work. Hopefully we'll see more of yours soon. Have fun building!

Edited December 7, 2007 by jardann

[warpaint22]

A great product to use for seem lines is Mr Dissolved Putty which is very thin and is a lot easier to use than a standard tube type putty. It also has the advantage of penertrating small gaps rather than just covering over them, you can also apply it and after about 30 secounds you can wipe the excess off with a cotton swab dipped in white spirit, the result is that the putty will stay in the grove but will be romoved from the higher surface. This is great for filling seems inside of air intakes and 99% of the time requires no exrta attension except primer.

Also remember that you don't always have to use putty at all if you use a solvent rather than a glue such as Mr Cement S as it wield the plastic togeather like wielding steel. If you align the parts correctly you will find that you can sand out most seem lines without the use of putty, but you will need to learn how to rescribe panel lines however you'll need to do this even with putty. Most of my models that you have seen of mine have next to no putty at all, only when a gap has to be filled.

Try using a solvent instead of a glue as I did this about ten years ago and your models will look better just by making this change as you get no glue oozing out of seems. But one tip, as solvent is water thin you use capillary action to draw the solvent along the parts to be glued, but make sure your fingers are not anywhere were the solvent can reach them, such as panel lines where the solvent may run down to where your holding the parts. As it has the same effect as having wet glue on your fingers and your left with your finger tips imbedded in the plastic, and that means more sanding, filling, hard work.

Model building is 80% prep work and the more prep that goes in the better the end result. Take your time, invest in quality products and read about all types of models even if the subject has little interest to you. I posted a great site with great tips and awesome step by steps, these guys are really masters at what they do.

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/howtoindex.htm

[Sonic]

Thanks, I will check that site out.

So after washing all the parts i should coat the plastic in a layer of primer, so it allows the paint to stick?

should i get the primer that is for the airbrush, or will the normally spray can primer be ok to use?

[redfinger61]

Thanks, I will check that site out.

So after washing all the parts i should coat the plastic in a layer of primer, so it allows the paint to stick?

should i get the primer that is for the airbrush, or will the normally spray can primer be ok to use?

I find the canned stuff tends to be a little thick for the hasegawa models...if you have a airbrush invest in some Mr. Surfacer 1000 and the branded thinner, the stuf applies very thin and gives a good bite for the paint to stick too. just use it in a well vented area.

Another tip, anywhere on the model where you may see some of the inside of the model, like where the head attaches, or the feet, or near the vents, ect...paint those areas black, or hell paint the whole inside of your model black, this way if someone catches the inside of your model on a quick glance the black tends to make it a little less obvious.

[Sonic]

Nice, i will try this out on my next model. I think this one might be hard to fix up.

I have such a thick layer of gloss spray can paint on the surface of this model. This is because I didn't get my nice airbrush yet.

Should i strip the whole model of it's paint and redo?

[jardann]

You could strip it, but I would wait until you have some more building experience. That kit will wait while you work on some other things and you can always strip it later when you're ready. In the meantime, it will serve as an example to you to show your progress as your skills improve.

If you can't find the Mr. Surfacer, I have used the Games Workshop primer with good results. It is a spray can and comes in white and gray, I think maybe black too. You should be able to find it where gaming miniatures are sold. It goes on very thin and will not obscure the fine detail on the Hasegawa kits.

Depending on the kit, I sometimes use Krylon gray primer from the spray can. I like the way it works and it is cheap, but as redfinger said, it can be a little thick for the fine detail that is on the Hasegawa Macross kits.

[winterdyne]

...If you can't find the Mr. Surfacer, I have used the Games Workshop primer with good results. It is a spray can and comes in white and gray, I think maybe black too. You should be able to find it where gaming miniatures are sold. It goes on very thin and will not obscure the fine detail on the Hasegawa kits...

Yeah, it's good stuff. I used it on my yammie. Tamiya paints stick to it very nicely. It does have a slightly grainy finish but it sands up nicely.

I wouldn't bother stripping - better to keep it as an example of what you were like. I have a rather embarrasing hand painted RX78-2 Gundam on my shelf for that reason. That said, there are still some details on it that I like.

[big F]

I wouldn't bother stripping - better to keep it as an example of what you were like. I have a rather embarrassing hand painted RX78-2 Gundam on my shelf for that reason. That said, there are still some details on it that I like.

That figures

Although I have just found the last part in mothers attic of my 1/200 Arii/Imai Monster which I built some when round 1985. Its gonna recive some modern day love via a visit to oven cleaner vile just because its too good to let it rot

[Sonic]

oh.... too late, last night i use enamel paint thinner to strip the paint off the parts, it was nasty. The thinner ate through my rubber gloves. However the parts came out clean again.

This model and the YF-19 are the only models I currently have to work on. The other macross models are on back order.

[jardann]

Oooh You're lucky, using paint thinner to strip an entire modle can be very messy or even dangerous!

Next time, ask around for some better alternatives. I use a product called "Greased Lightning." It is a degreaser and is biodegradeable. Lots of people use Easy Off oven cleaner or Castrol Super Clean. You do have to take care when using any of these, but they won't harm the plastic and are easier to deal with than straight paint thinner. Many paint thinners will attack (melt) the plastic and the fumes can be very dangerous.

Looks like you will have another shot at finishing the battroid though! Good luck and have fun!

[big F]

Dont let your hobby harm your health you can use foam oven cleaner it can smell a bit but you can flush the left overs down the drain. I do mine in a plastic measuring jug in the Garage. Just put the parts in and cover them with the foam cleaner and leave for a few hours and them wash off the results under the tap with a a bit of encouragement from a nail brush. Repeat until clean. Easy Peasy

[warpaint22]

Dont let your hobby harm your health you can use foam oven cleaner it can smell a bit but you can flush the left overs down the drain. I do mine in a plastic measuring jug in the Garage. Just put the parts in and cover them with the foam cleaner and leave for a few hours and them wash off the results under the tap with a a bit of encouragement from a nail brush. Repeat until clean. Easy Peasy

Now that's a good idea, I'll try that next time I screw a paint job.

[Sonic]

The thinner ate through 4 pairs of plastic gloves. It didn't seem to eat through the plastic, since I rubbed the thinner on with a cloth and then with water. Come to think about it, after stripping some of the parts I was pretty light headed. Probably never gonna sit in the the closed room like that again.

Here are a few images of my workstation that I just setup, and how the parts turned out.

My new airbrush & compressor.

[Sonic]

Oooh You're lucky, using paint thinner to strip an entire modle can be very messy or even dangerous!

Next time, ask around for some better alternatives. I use a product called "Greased Lightning." It is a degreaser and is biodegradeable. Lots of people use Easy Off oven cleaner or Castrol Super Clean. You do have to take care when using any of these, but they won't harm the plastic and are easier to deal with than straight paint thinner. Many paint thinners will attack (melt) the plastic and the fumes can be very dangerous.

Looks like you will have another shot at finishing the battroid though! Good luck and have fun!

I tried the Car Degreaser and it works like a charm. just cleaning up the parts now.

[Valkyrie addict]

hehehe, you should open the window next time, hehehe

you were lucky the paint thinner didn't eat trough the plastic and erased the panel lines

I can't see if you got any sanding paper in your setup...

[Sonic]

hehehe, you should open the window next time, hehehe

you were lucky the paint thinner didn't eat trough the plastic and erased the panel lines

I can't see if you got any sanding paper in your setup...

Picture2 has some sand paper on the bottom right hand corner. I have 3 types of paper that I use to sand my parts.

All parts are nice and clean, just like it came out from the box. Besides the fact that I did all kinds of %$#* to it and abused it.

It's a sad day for my battroid, last night while I was cleaning the parts I wasn't thinking for a second and washed the parts with the drain hole open.

One of the parts said goodbye to the others and jumped into the abyss.

The part that committed suicide was the little light thing on the shoulders of the battroid.

Edited December 14, 2007 by Sonic

[Excillon]

Picture2 has some sand paper on the bottom right hand corner. I have 3 types of paper that I use to sand my parts.

All parts are nice and clean, just like it came out from the box. Besides the fact that I did all kinds of %$#* to it and abused it.

It's a sad day for my battroid, last night while I was cleaning the parts I wasn't thinking for a second and washed the parts with the drain hole open.

One of the parts said goodbye to the others and jumped into the abyss.

The part that committed suicide was the little light thing on the shoulders of the battroid.

well, maybe if he's weathered and battle damaged, it got blown off. That's what I'd do. Better yet, take a clear plastic sprue, cut a few small pieces and put them in the lost piece's place, make it look like it got shattered!

personally, I didn't think your first attempt was that bad. I would have worked with it rather than dissected it. the torso I thought actually looked pretty good, as did the head. But it's your model, so what you think is all that really matters.

Edited December 14, 2007 by Excillon

[winterdyne]

well, maybe if he's weathered and battle damaged, it got blown off. That's what I'd do. Better yet, take a clear plastic sprue, cut a few small pieces and put them in the lost piece's place, make it look like it got shattered!

personally, I didn't think your first attempt was that bad. I would have worked with it rather than dissected it. the torso I thought actually looked pretty good, as did the head. But it's your model, so what you think is all that really matters.

I'd check the U-bend / drain trap first. It's surprising what gets left behind in there.

[Sonic]

Yeah I checked the U-bend pipe, it's about 2M deep down, no way I will find this piece. I would have to just make the piece collateral damage of a battroid battle.

I just bought myself the same model kit and a few others today, but I will build up my skills before I attempt to build these ones.

[Sonic]

Here is a photo of my first attempt of doing pre-shading.

I seriously need some more practice in doing this LOL

[Sonic]

Anyone know any good tutorial pages for airbrushing?

[Excillon]

www.aircraftresourcecenter.com is a good site for tips.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is a photo of my first attempt of doing pre-shading.

I seriously need some more practice in doing this LOL

Wow that's way too dark, unless your going for that look. If your going to pre-shade on white, you should go with light grey.

[winterdyne]

I have a few tips that I found useful:

1) Strip the brush down and get familliar with it. You'll need to be able to do this quickly and efficiently to clean it when changing colour, or if you made a mix too thick.

2) Have a sheet of card to hand (from a cereal packet is great). Test your spray on this, and get the technique right before you aim your brush at your model. Helps with judging distance, paint flow and air pressure. Also helps to check your paint is thin enough.

3) Use thinner paint and more coats. Too thick a paint mix will clog the brush and cause spatter. You'll hear it and feel it. If it's spattering you can't paint any more without cleaning the needle. Sometimes just spraying through neat thinner will do the job, sometimes you'll need to strip the brush down.

4) If you're unsure about preshading, use a more subtle selection of colours - Grey rather than black. Expect it to look really messy at first. You get a look closer to finished sooner, which helps your confidence. When preshading, the over coat (base colour) is EXTREMELY thin. You'll use many many passes. Again, have the card to hand to practice.

Edit: 2 More:

5) Make sure your compressor has a tank. Compressors without tanks tend to 'pulse' which cause odd things to happen if you're trying to spray a reasonably uniform line (like for preshading). Bigger tank, longer time spraying.

6) Buy the BIG (250ml I think) bottles of Tamiya thinner. Don't buy the little jars, they're way more expensive. Buy a good quality, fine point sable brush for touchup work. Don't skimp on painting supplies, go with what works best. Unless you're really looking for a challenge.

Edited January 7, 2008 by winterdyne

[Sonic]

Wow that's way too dark, unless your going for that look. If your going to pre-shade on white, you should go with light grey.

The pre-shading was ok dark, I just went over with a few layers of white to cover it.

Shot at 2008-01-07