Base Coats, order of operation, thinking ahead

[sqidd]

So I just got me very first model, a Hasegawa YF-19 1:72.

I opened it up last night and took a look-see at what I had to work with.

I was planning on getting started today as far as getting set up, buying supplies, formulating an attack plan, etc. My first question comes down to the base coat.

I will be doing a Foker paint scheme on this puppy which means my base coat will be white. My problem is that I don't know what would be my best bet as far as what paint to use as my base coat. I think I want something that has a satin like finish and will be "preschool" easy to panel line. Keeping in mind I have never panel lined before. In the "top ten" thread Big F posted this:

If your gonna panelline it then use a different type of paint than the one you use to do the rest of the paint.

If you paint acrylic then use an oil based paint for the lines.

If you paint with car paints use an acrylic for the lines.

If you paint in enammels use acrylics to do the lines.

Alternative you can use fine markers or pastles ground in the solvent that wont ruin the paint you just did. ie white spirt for acrylic based paint and window cleaner for enammel based stuff.

If in doubt just try it on an old peice of a plastic food container to see if you got it right.

....which is very helpful as long as I know what paint I will be using, LOL. Can someone recommend what they think the best paint (type more than brand) for me to use would be, and keep in mind I am rattle can all the way on this puppy.

In addition to the request for a good paint to use can someone give me a seal of approval on my order of operation?

This is what order I was thinking of priming, sanding, painting the main sections of the model:

Prime fuselage on spurs

Cut fuselage from spurs

Test fit

Cut, sand, etc to make fit.

Glue

Prime

Paint

Would this be considered a good order of operation in regards to getting this puppy dialed in?

Thanks

sqidd

Edited October 18, 2007 by sqidd

[PetarB]

Sounds like you got the idea.

Use Tamiya Fine White primer in a rattlecan. Awesome stuff.

If you want a stark white base colour, after a very light sand, you could probably just seal this with a Tamiya Clear rattlecan then get started on the decalling. After that, seal again, then a light weather, if you plan to do any weathering.

[sqidd]

Sounds like you got the idea.

Use Tamiya Fine White primer in a rattlecan. Awesome stuff.

If you want a stark white base colour, after a very light sand, you could probably just seal this with a Tamiya Clear rattlecan then get started on the decalling. After that, seal again, then a light weather, if you plan to do any weathering.

I would like to take a crack at the weathering for sure.

Are you saying that if I want a "stark white" (is this a way of saying gloss?) base color that I could spray on a clear after I am done sanding? And if I wanted that "flat" look I would effectively be using the primer as paint?

Do I need to have some sort of clear/sealer on there to be able to do any weathering or panel lining? I'm guessing that if I were to try and do the "apply and wipe" method of panel lining with a primer or flat for a base it will not turn out so hot. Your thoughts?

thanks!

[redfinger61]

A word of caution with rattle cans and those Hasegawa 1/72 kits. The detailing on those kits is very fine, and using a rattle can and all the varous coats you are talking about could quickly "fill" the panels lines and make weathering the panel lines quite difficult.

If you have access to a airbrush, use that instaead, you will get much better results, if you dont have access to a airbrush, then consider recribing the panel lines before you do anything, this will make the grooves deeper, allowing for more coats. If none of that is an option then think about a single coat of a gloss white in your chosen brand, and try weathering the panel lines w/ a pastel chalk wash or pencil, then knock the whole model down w/ a satin clear coat.

Just remember that the more "layers" of paint you have the more detail gets obscured, particularly in a 1/72 scale.

The method I use(varies from model to model)

Assemble model in to various sub scetions; nose, wings, legs, ect

Prime sub assemblies, or pre-shade depending on what I am going for and what scale I am working with. My chosen primer is Mr. Surfacer 1000, VERY thin crisp primer!

Apply color, I use mostly Vallejo acrylics mixed with Future Floor polish and water, leaves the paint already in a semi-gloss state.

If my ration if future to paint was right I go straight to decal apllication, if not a few thin coats of future.

After decal application, I apply another thin coat of future to level out decals.

Oil wash and weather

Dull coat, or sating or whatever final coat

Additional weather

Done!!!! enjoy model!

The biggest problem I think you will have is keeping the layers thin....

Goodluck!!

Ashton

**edit**

to do the "appply and wipe" method you need a somewhat glossy surface, you get better results that way.

Edited October 18, 2007 by redfinger61

[big F]

As far as painting pannel lines you could use the Tamiya rattle can stuff and them make you pannel line paint from something like Humbrol or another oil based paint. Tamiya is acrylic based and Humbrol is oil based so the white spirit wont affect the Tamiya as much as it would if you tried to remove acrylic based pannel line mistakes and overspills etc.

As said by others with rattle cans you want to be putting as little paint on as possible as you`ll quickly fill the really fine pannel lines on the Hasegawa kits.

I know this from experience. The only way out then is the Draftsman pencil method of pannel lining. Which isnt so bad anyhow as a method in the first place.

Using a flat or semi gloss spray coat after all the painting and pannel lines and weather ing etc is done is your best bet for keeping your work fresh.

An air brush would be the best bet in the long run. Even the really cheap sub $30 ones are far better than rattle cans on the small kits and will give you many years of good service. On a 1/55 you can get away with a can as its bigger but thats a whole different area.