Directions For Panel Lining

[sqidd]

I'm sure this is somewhere, but does anyone have som buletproof instructios on how to panel line? I need to do a few of my Valks. That looks great!

[Valkyrie addict]

it has been explained several times on the forums here, but I know it's pain to search for it, since I've search for hours before and been left with a few doubts, there are several ways, the easiest one was actually explained very nice in one of MW Cheng step by steps, but his links are down now

anyway, here's a links that might help

say cheese

Edited September 23, 2007 by Valkyrie addict

[warpaint22]

I use a copic 0.02mm pen. They are awesome for panel lines, I used to use gudam panel line pens but found the copic to be muck better and a lot thinner. You can order them from HLJ though they seem to be backordered.

http://www.hlj.com/product/TOO04187

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

I don't think MWCheng's links are down...

FYI:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...;f=23&t=691

***EDIT***

Sorry. Not all the links are down. XD

You can just use some Future Floor Wax (manufactured by SE Johnson wax company) with a mix of some black paint, panel line as you please, dry and use Windex or any ammonia based solution to removed the excess.

Edited September 24, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[fernarias]

Why not see how it's done on a video:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=F30RL-wlYGw&amp...ted&search=

or on a VF0

http://youtube.com/watch?v=fU4W0ncGWxw&amp...ted&search=

They are both using enamels on top of lacquers but you can get the same effect with enamels on top of acrylics.

F.

[Lukas]

Are the results better if you are doing it the way shown in the vids, or are markers (copic or gundam) just as well?

I'm new to all this and aside the fact that I love panel lined valks, I'm quite scared to fail and fart my valk up while panel lining the "pro way".

So if markers are good too, I would use them instead... now please just tell me they all are doing it like in the vids because it’s faster ^^ loool

[miriya]

I have yet to panel line my valks but in looking at what people are doing I like the mechanical pencil style. If I do it I will probably try that. However if I was going to panel line a stealth I would probably use a black gundam marker or copics.

[Lukas]

Maybe I should add that I would like to panel line a 1/48 scale Yamato and don't want to take it apart ^^

What method would you suggest to use here? Of course I would try out both methods on a regular cheap plane model kit first...

Edited September 26, 2007 by Lukas

[warpaint22]

I really think a set of copic's are a grate investment, you can get three colours for doing panel lines and it's just nice and easy, I think I saw that gundam (GSI) is doing a really fine mechanical pencil now for adding panel lines. I prefer these options than painting on a wash for lines on my yammies as if you are not confident using them you could make a mess, all the different ways work and work well it's just what you would feel confident doing. Pencil and markers are great and simple to use and the yammies have wide deep lines to follow, with a pencil and gudam markers a clear coat would have to be done, copics will once dry be pretty permanent just make sure that you clean up mistakes as you go with a damp cotton swab as once dry you'll need to use alcohol or thinner to remove it. It's all just practice.

[Lukas]

Great... So I'll by 2 Gundam Markers (Black and Gray) and 2 copics (Black and Light Grey) to see which are better and for the future. Did I understand it right that I have to clear coat when using Gundam Markers and Pencils, but not if if I used copics?

[ghostryder]

Great... So I'll by 2 Gundam Markers (Black and Gray) and 2 copics (Black and Light Grey) to see which are better and for the future. Did I understand it right that I have to clear coat when using Gundam Markers and Pencils, but not if if I used copics?

Seriously, for a white valk and your first time, go with a 0.03mm mechanical pencil. For the little amount time it will take you, the results will be fine and you do not need to clear coat. I play with my valks, and the panel lines do not rub off at all. Take a look at Swoosh's M&M VF-1Js in the "strike a pose" thread for a better visual. This full frontal of my avatar valk will also give you a better idea of what pencil looks llike:

Edited September 27, 2007 by ghostryder

[Lukas]

Wow... looks really good for the amount of work it should take. And Swoosh's M&M valks were panel lined with a mechanical pencil too?

I think I'll do it this way than... But just to understand the difference. Why do I have to clear coat panel lines made with a copic oder gundam marker, but not the ones made with a mechanical pencil? It's quite the same for me (noob haha). ^^

[ghostryder]

Wow... looks really good for the amount of work it should take. And Swoosh's M&M valks were panel lined with a mechanical pencil too?

I think I'll do it this way than... But just to understand the difference. Why do I have to clear coat panel lines made with a copic oder gundam marker, but not the ones made with a mechanical pencil? It's quite the same for me (noob haha). ^^

If you use a very thin lead pencil (0.3mm), the lead should be deep enough in the panel groove such that your fingers will never touch it. I guess some people use thicker lead, and have rub-off issues?

Keep in mind, pencil lead darkens quite a bit if you clear over it. So by not clear-coating, you will have ultimate control over the final darkness of the line.

I forgot to mention, an easy way to panel line darker plastic (fastpacks, gunpods) where pencil might not show up too well is Sakura Pigma Micron pens (0.25mm). These are alcohol-based artist pens that clean up with spit/water when applying, but stay on pretty well after drying. Here's some examples of the Pigma pen on fastpacks and gun (these were my first attempts, so don't laugh):

Edited September 27, 2007 by ghostryder

[Lukas]

Looks good too. But still the one question... why not to use gundam markers oder copics (0.02mm) without coating? Should be the same as with the pancil. As long as I don't touch or rub IN the panels its okay, isn't it?

[ghostryder]

Looks good too. But still the one question... why not to use gundam markers oder copics (0.02mm) without coating? Should be the same as with the pancil. As long as I don't touch or rub IN the panels its okay, isn't it?

You can do either, assuming the paint line isn't so thick as to make contact with your fingers while handling. You can always paint without clear coating and see if it stays on. If it doesn't, touch up the panel lines and clear coat. IMO, if you use stickers and you handle your toys, clear coating isn't worth the trouble.

[Lukas]

Thanks for all the answers... this community is really great!!! And yes I ordered Devin's Stickers with a protective coating and so I don't plan on coating my valk. Let's see how I'll do the panel lining, but either way it shouldn't be a problem as I don't plan on playing with it anyway ^^

Thank you once more!

[ghostryder]

I don't plan on playing with it anyway ^^

HA! I'll believe that after you get one valk for each mode

[Lukas]

Of course I'll transform it from time to time for display purpose. With playing I thought of the "traditional" way, like little children do it with cars, planes or whatever ^^ You know... own sound effect making and "playing" haha

[warpaint22]

Of course I'll transform it from time to time for display purpose. With playing I thought of the "traditional" way, like little children do it with cars, planes or whatever ^^ You know... own sound effect making and "playing" haha

That's for when the wife takes the kids out. Haha Just on the point of the gundam markers and the copics, the copics are alcohol-based but I don't beleave the gundams are. But you should find as ghostryder has said that the panel lines on the 1/48 are nice and deep, so smudging should not be a problem if you use a really fine mech pencil or the copics. I think you will find the gundams will smudge without a clear coat, and adding a clear coat is just an other thing that could go wrong and spoil the whole thing for you. I'd go with the pencil or copics ( or any thin alcohol based pen), great thing with pencil is a eraser is the only real clean up tool you need if you make a mistake ( I sure you wont anyway ) but just take you time and you'll have a much nicer looking valk than out of the box. Let us know how it turns out.

Edited September 28, 2007 by warpaint22

[cowie165]

Another very good panel line DIY: http://www.scalespot.com/reference/panellines/panellines.htm

[roboferret]

Another style of panel lining worth mentioning is chalk washes. I really like the easy cleanup and the idiot-proof application method. It is also a great way to add general weathering while doing panel lines at the same time.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...shes/tnt026.htm

http://www.world-war-2-airplane-model.com/washes.html

[kkx]

Another style of panel lining worth mentioning is chalk washes. I really like the easy cleanup and the idiot-proof application method. It is also a great way to add general weathering while doing panel lines at the same time.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...shes/tnt026.htm

http://www.world-war-2-airplane-model.com/washes.html

Thanks for posting these links.

The first link is where I first learn about pastel chalk wash. It was good to re-read it again.

I was trying to find a idiot proof method when I work on my first model.

I really recommend this method to any first timer. It is very easy and you can redo from start very easily if you make a mistake or don't like the result.

With a little bit of patient (on shallow panel line, the chalk get wiped off quite easily) I manage to get very good result using this technique. I am very happy with the final look.

Even beginner can achieve pro result with this. It feels like cheating.

The extra bonus of weathering effect is also a big plus.

For a first timer, panelling and weathering are very daunting tasks. The risk of ruining the result of hours of hard work makes me feel really uneasy, until I learn about this method.

[misterryno]

I use a copic 0.02mm pen. They are awesome for panel lines, I used to use gudam panel line pens but found the copic to be muck better and a lot thinner. You can order them from HLJ though they seem to be backordered.

http://www.hlj.com/product/TOO04187

I was searching for these Copic 0.02mm pens myself and have not found one yet...but I have found 0.03mm Copic Pens......will those be too thick???

[warpaint22]

I was searching for these Copic 0.02mm pens myself and have not found one yet...but I have found 0.03mm Copic Pens......will those be too thick???

0.03 should be fine, I don't think you would see a differance between a 0.02 to a 0.03 and for 1/55, 1/60 and 1/48 it should be perfect.

[misterryno]

0.03 should be fine, I don't think you would see a differance between a 0.02 to a 0.03 and for 1/55, 1/60 and 1/48 it should be perfect.

Frickin awesome...I am going to see if I can go to Hobby Lobby and get some this evening. I am going to be bored so I might as well make my figs look sweeeeeeeeeet.

[MechTech]

Thanks for sharing that link! That's a new one on me. - MT