What putty should I use to build up the sides of something?

[David Hingtgen]

Long story short, and this is actually for a model train, but basically:

I have a resin conversion part, and like many thin-walled right-angle parts, it's not perfectly square in every dimension. And based on the shape, I think it'd be easier to try to build up the sides than to heat and twist it into shape. (I don't even think it COULD be twisted into shape--I think the mold itself isn't square to start with, and there's a sheer lack of material in the piece making one end narrower--the piece would have to STRETCH to be square) It is basically a hollow cube in shape, but from the front, it looks like this:

I just need to "fill out" the tapered sides by a millimeter or so to get a full "cube" out of it. Any suggestions for a type of putty/epoxy etc that would do well for this? It'd only be 1mm thick or so, but it'd be over probably a 1x2cm area on each side. Should I try to scuff up the sides a bit for adhesion? I've also considered gluing on some thin sheet styrene to help build up the sides (don't really want to rely entirely on putty). But I am concerned about cracking---the part will have to be handled quite a bit, even after painting. There will definitely be some flexing it'll have to deal with.

(I've filled enough gaps in my life, but actually "building up" something is pretty unknown to me)

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

http://uk.games-workshop.com/convershunklinic/green-stuff/1/

There's an actual scientific term for it. I just don't remember what it exactly was... Keadinite or something like that. There's other stuff like it which can be more harder or softer after mixing. It's pretty much a two part epoxy.

Use all the possible methods listed in that article which can help provide the finish that you want to achieve.

***EDIT***

Okay found the name and the actual company as well:

Kneadatite

http://polymericsystems.com/kneadatite.htm

Edited July 31, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[MechTech]

Would it be easier to sand it down a bit and put a thin piece of styrene on it?

[lorn_13]

Agree with MechTech

[big F]

Probably easier if you give the dimesions to Mechtech and he could wizz you up one, aparently he`s quite good with styrene.

If not I fear it could be the long hard slog by hand, I had something similar a few years ago took ages to get it right.

[Duymon]

Don't use the green-stuff from Games Workshop, it's far too flexible after cured and is a batty to sand.

For filling you can never go wrong with Milliput. Get the fine-grain version, mix up a small batch, apply and let cure for a day. MIlliput rocks because i've never had trouble with it bonding to anything and it sands down smooth.

Plus, you get a crapload more milliput per dollar than the over-priced green stuff

Edited August 1, 2007 by Duymon

[David Hingtgen]

I think Milliput is available at my local hobby shop---aren't there different versions?

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

LOL green stuff isn't from games workshop. Games-workshop just bought a bunch of the stuff and decided to sell it under their own label.

And yes milliput was the other stuff that I was referring to that's like green-stuff. There's even others seeing that they are all epoxy.

***EDIT***

You'll have to do a search according to the manufacturer's specs on the various epoxies.

Edited August 1, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[HWR MKII]

Aves Apoxie Sculpt. Similar to epoxy putty but far more durable and workable. Its available at the starship modeler store. You can get 4 pounds of it for 40 bucks. It took me 3 years to go through my first 4 pounds.

[David Hingtgen]

I found milliput "standard" (yellow-grey?). $7. Also a $10 version. Isn't there also a "fine" white version?

PS--I've heard of Aves Apoxie--but I really don't need that much. That's part of the reason I never tried it despite people raving about it--the smallest amount they sell is more than I'd ever use in a decade.

[Duymon]

There's a few milliputs but most hobby shops should stock milliput regular and milliput fine-grain. fine-grain may be a lil bit more but it works better for detail work and what-not.

MIlliput actually cures hard and is sandable. Green stuff will be flexible even after curing and is a batty to sand. So stick with millput har har har.

Even the regular Milliput is superior to green-stuff for this purpose.

[big F]

Isn't there also a "fine" white version?

Yeah my brother uses it on his scale boats, sands well and seems to be able to withstand floating in a lake with only a light clearcoat.