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Posted

Hello, I searched but couldn't find the exact info...I got a couple of questions if someone might help me

1. you know the sanding trick to get rid of the seam line on the plastic canopies and dunking it in future? can you do the same with the vacuum formed canopies that come on resin kits?, I got one with a small fingerprint smudge that I would like to get rid off

2. how do you make clear plastic painted but still make it look clear? errr... is it by dunking it on inked future?

3. has anyone here used "Alclad"? to make that worn out metal trick?? how exactly do you use it?? is it by putting a coat of alclad as base and later painting over it and sanding the paint to expose the alclad??

4. can the same worn out metal look be achieved by using regular metal color as base instead of alclad?

thanks in advanced :ph34r:

Posted

1. Vac canopies are usually thinner and more brittle. It'll work, but support the canopy from underneath so it doesn't crack--use some clay or something.

2. As in transparent orange canopies or something? Coloring future works, though most people tend to use Tamiya's clear paints, especially as they have "smoke"--which is basically clear black and very useful for many things.

3. Generally Alclad is applied over a base layer of gloss black. All metallic paints are affected by the base coat, but the polishing/buffing ones are VERY dependent on what they're applied over.

Are you going for the "painted panels with chipped edges exposing bare metal" look? If so, I really think that'd be an utter waste of Alclad, as you'd be at 3+ layers and a lot of effort, with 90% of the Alclad invisible. Just use normal silver in that case, if you want to actually expose an underlaying layer. Some people use little bits of tape, masking fluid, etc to mask off the silver before painting the next layer, then pulling off the tape.

Personally I'd go with applying silver to the edges afterwards by drybrushing.

Posted

Hello, I searched but couldn't find the exact info...I got a couple of questions if someone might help me

1. you know the sanding trick to get rid of the seam line on the plastic canopies and dunking it in future? can you do the same with the vacuum formed canopies that come on resin kits?, I got one with a small fingerprint smudge that I would like to get rid off

2. how do you make clear plastic painted but still make it look clear? errr... is it by dunking it on inked future?

3. has anyone here used "Alclad"? to make that worn out metal trick?? how exactly do you use it?? is it by putting a coat of alclad as base and later painting over it and sanding the paint to expose the alclad??

4. can the same worn out metal look be achieved by using regular metal color as base instead of alclad?

thanks in advanced :ph34r:

1 yes but be careful

2yes

3 Contact Kylwell for a really in depth outlook on it

4 Dont use just silver. its too bright. Steel or aluminum is better. Or use a dark brownish grey to simulate the grungy metal then burnish pencil graphite on the edge and raised area to get the worn metal sheen.

Posted

Regarding question #2:

I use Tamiya clear paints, If you're painting somthing that is supposed to be a light, paint the back of the piece chrome silver first (where a lightbulb would be) then paint the clear color over that.

Posted

Hello, I searched but couldn't find the exact info...I got a couple of questions if someone might help me

1. you know the sanding trick to get rid of the seam line on the plastic canopies and dunking it in future? can you do the same with the vacuum formed canopies that come on resin kits?, I got one with a small fingerprint smudge that I would like to get rid off

2. how do you make clear plastic painted but still make it look clear? errr... is it by dunking it on inked future?

3. has anyone here used "Alclad"? to make that worn out metal trick?? how exactly do you use it?? is it by putting a coat of alclad as base and later painting over it and sanding the paint to expose the alclad??

4. can the same worn out metal look be achieved by using regular metal color as base instead of alclad?

thanks in advanced :ph34r:

1. Yes but as has been noted vacc canopies can be thinner so sand gently

2. Ink can work, so can food coloring, or I just thin Tamiya clears with future and use that.

3. Heh....yeah, works awsome.... Still trying to quantify everything but acrylic over Alclad and rub.

4. Possibly. There are a few metals paints out there that you're not supposed to paint over as they dn't give much grip psurface for teh paint. Haven't worked with them yet but am thinking about giving some a try.

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