VF-1S Strike Battroid Valkyrie step-by-step

[wm cheng]

Well I started to paint some parts. I'm using Tamiya paints. I'm using metallic grey (XF-56) for the feet and grill and anything that is metal. I used flat black (XF-1) for the little part and dry brush metallic grey around the grill. Looks good I like how it came out. Next I'll shade some detail after I finish using metallic grey.

Hey DM2, try Alclad Metalizers - I used to use Tamiya colours on my Valkryies too, but I found the metal particles in the paint to be too big for the scale, it looked rough. But then I was told to try Alclad (http://www.alclad2.com/lacquer_colors.html) and I have never looked back - the stuff is amazing! It really makes your parts look like metal. Its airbrush only though.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Hey DM2, try Alclad Metalizers - I used to use Tamiya colours on my Valkryies too, but I found the metal particles in the paint to be too big for the scale, it looked rough. But then I was told to try Alclad (http://www.alclad2.com/lacquer_colors.html) and I have never looked back - the stuff is amazing! It really makes your parts look like metal. Its airbrush only though.

I notice that too, the particles are big, really shows when you look up close the the model. After looking at that website I'm going to have to some of that Alclad!!!! Guess I need to strip that Metallic Grey today. Does anybody know where to buy them? I heard they are little high, but I also heard it's worth the price.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Had time to work on the strike pack today. I seen this done by someone else before, and I thought it was a good idea. First I drilled with my pinvise a couple of holes, then took a very sharp x-ecto and cut from hole to hole. Then with my sharpe x-ecto I trimmed around the edges then sand. Here you see that I used a screen mesh for vents.

Edited July 26, 2007 by DrunkenMaster2

[wm cheng]

Hey Drunken Master,

The real trick about the Alclad stuff is that they have to go onto an absolutely smooth finish - the styrene plastic is great, but make sure you've filled all your seams perfectly, since the stuff is so thin, it will show any imperfections. I would also recommend getting the Alclad primer too, its fantastic, pre-thinned, and I only use it on areas that I will be applying the metalizer too. It will show any imperfections in the seams right away before you use the metalizer. Yes, its a bit more expensive, but it goes a long way (as long as you don't spill any ) And it has advantages over other products such as that you don't need to buff it in the end to get the metal finish (but of course you can too to get a different sheen) and the best part, you don't need to seal it, a lot of other metallizers require a sealant - otherwise it comes off in your hands, but the sealant/clearcoat dulls the metal finish. I would keep all the metalizer parts away from the clear coats and glue them on at the end when you are finished, this way, they stay nice and metal-like!

Regarding the mesh, cool mod, but you should really use a much finer mesh for the model, you're only getting a few holes in each slot. If you went through the trouble of cutting out the slots, go through the trouble of going to a hobby store, and getting a piece of mesh that is in scale with the model. I've included a shot of the mesh I got for the Booster, its really fine, and you get two pieces for $7, but you'll probably only use like half of one piece for all four areas of slots. I think its made for car modeling, but it will look much closer in scale for your slots. Also you can use a flat file to smooth out the flat openings between the drill points as I've done on the booster there to the right. Good luck!

Looking great so far!

[DrunkenMaster2]

WM Cheng, yeah after looking at that mesh, I'm going to go with something smaller for the vents. Well I found a website that sold Alclad Metalizers, let me say YOU HAVE TO BUY THIS!!!! This stuff works great!!!! Here I airbrush "steel" for the gun and vents and anything that is metallic. Next I'm going to airbrush some shade with "Jet Exhaust".

[Gabe Q]

I keep hearing about this Alclad stuff. Looks like I'm gonna have to try it.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I shade the metallic parts for the valkyrie. I use Alclad Jet Exhaust, came out very nice. I really like how the gun turn out!!!!

[DrunkenMaster2]

Ok here I airbrush flat white XF-2 on all the parts that is white. I airbrush a very light coat of flat white, just enough to cover the primer. Next I airbrush light grey XF-66 for shade, may look ugly but when I go over it again with flat white it'll bend in better.

Edited August 2, 2007 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Finish the shading on the flat white, I have to say I'm quit please how it turn out. Next I'm going to seal the flat white and light grey. Then do the panel lines, and finally apply the steel on the vents and guns on the head.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I layout the battroid to get a better look at, it's going to look good once I apply the decals!!!

[DrunkenMaster2]

Had some time today to do some painting.

First I sealed all the flat white with Model Master Lacquer Overcoat semi-gloss, then when that dried I masked off all the area that was not going to be painted, I made sure I masked everything off twice, I had problems with overspray (arghhh I hate overspray). I airbrush Alclad "steel" on all the parts that needed it, again if you haven't use this paint I highly recommand it.

Next I peel off all the tape, came out pretty good.

For the gun on the head, I airbrush Alcald "steel" then shade it with Alcald "Jet Exhaust", to give a look that the gun has been fired.

Next I'll fill in the panel lines. Until then thanks for looking, and I hope your enjoying the step-by-step.

[redfinger61]

Looking good, I am currnetly working on a VF-1S, I am putting on the decals on doing the panel wash now. I agree as well about the Alclad, the stuff is great!

I dont know what method you will be using for the panel lines but I am very pleased w/ the oil/oderless mineral spirits combo that I am using.

I have read that most people let the oil sit in the panel lines for a hour or so, I tried somehting different and let it sit for a bout 10min, and the effect was great!, I used straight black though as opposed to a dark greay. Letting the oil not sit as long left aome really cool faint streaks all along the model, instant weathering!!

Ashton

[DrunkenMaster2]

Thanks, redfinger61 for the "looking good" comment. Ok started the panel lines. I like to use oil paint too. I use Winton oil color, I mixed black and white to get grey, then pour mineral spirits to make it like water and mix it up. Then I dip my paint brush and touch the panel line, if I did it right it should fill in the panel line all at once, then go to the next one. I usally wait for about an 1 hour, before I wipe it off. If I wipe off the panel line I just reapply the oil wash and do it agian, till it sticks.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well finish the panel lines. Need to do some touch ups, but other then that I'm finish. Next I'm going to seal it, then apply the decals.

[DrunkenMaster2]

more.....

[DrunkenMaster2]

and finally...

[wm cheng]

Looking good DM2!!

Just a hint, maybe next time you could vary your oil wash so that its not all black, have some lighter greys for the panels and revits that don't get accessed a lot, and save the black for the moveable surfaces such as slats, flaps, ankle circles or vents (this makes them stand out more) while knocking back some of the other surface details so it gives depth.

[MechTech]

Looks great so far! I missed out on a lot when my phone line was down! - MT

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well finish the decals, and man it looks cool!! Next I'll fill in the panels.

Don't use the decal for the canopy. I painted with three colors of Tamiya paints to get that light red.

Here are the steps to get that color.

Primer > Flat white (XF-2) > Spray a light coat of model master semi-gloss (needs the gloss of the flat white, for the clear red to work) > Clear Red X-27 (make sure it's on white, if it's on a primer the clear red will be dark, needs a white surface to work, if you did it right the clear red will almost look like pink.) > and finally a very very light coat of Red X-7 (spray too much red and you'll get a dark red).

[DrunkenMaster2]

And finally.....

Next I'll finish touch ups on some parts, and finish the panels on the decals, then I can finally put the battroid together. Then start to paint the strike pack.

Looks good so far, here are the three battroid next to each other, white with shade > white with shade and panel line > and finally, the decals

Edited September 1, 2007 by DrunkenMaster2

[moss]

Looks good!!! nice an detailed job.

[Valkyrie addict]

talk about dedication... hehehe, good job!

[Straycatt]

Just a quick question.... Wasn't Hikaru's bird numbered 011 not 001????

Nevermind.... 001 is correct...

Great build BTW... Cant wait to see it finished.....

Am I correct in that you used the heatshield with the raised Skull rather than using a decal???

-Adam

Edited September 2, 2007 by Straycatt

[DrunkenMaster2]

I thought the same thing 011, then I check out my movie DYRL to make sure. You weren't the only one that wasn't sure what number it was.

Yeah for the heatshield I used the raised skull, just added the decal on top of it, had to use micro sol for that decal.

Just a quick question.... Wasn't Hikaru's bird numbered 011 not 001????

Nevermind.... 001 is correct...

Great build BTW... Cant wait to see it finished.....

Am I correct in that you used the heatshield with the raised Skull rather than using a decal???

-Adam

[redfinger61]

Looks good!!

A quick suggestion for you, paint the inside of the legs, where the exhaust buckets will be, flat black, also paint inside the body area underneath where the head will be flat black as well, I did that on mine and it really added some depth and got rid of some of that annoying white that you see some times in models..

Ashton

[big F]

Looks good!!

A quick suggestion for you, paint the inside of the legs, where the exhaust buckets will be, flat black, also paint inside the body area underneath where the head will be flat black as well, I did that on mine and it really added some depth and got rid of some of that annoying white that you see some times in models..

Ashton

Good idea.

[MechTech]

It's coming along very nicely! - MT

[PetarB]

Thanks for sharing, this is an excellent build-up!

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well finally found a mesh that wm_chang uses, I like it, so much better then what I was going to use.

Here is the website where I order the mesh:

http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/vie...mp;idproduct=53

After I dry fit this part they didn't line up right, so I cut the nubs off, they fit so much better and line up great. Made it easier for me to putty and sand.

Edited October 22, 2007 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Finally I was able to primer and sand. Finally ready to paint. Does anybody know what color I should use for the strike pack? I'm thinking about Tamiya Medium Blue XF-18 with a couple of drops of Tamiya Dark Grey XF-24.

[DrunkenMaster2]

I primer and airbrush the burners with Alclad Steel, and shade with Alclad Jet Exhaust, for the strike pack.

[PetarB]

The mesh looks much much better. The discolouration on the exhausts look great too. Looking forwards to the next stage...

[redfinger61]

Those are not the origonal thruster cones for the manuvering thrusters....where did you get the new ones?

Ashton

[big F]

Finally I was able to primer and sand. Finally ready to paint. Does anybody know what color I should use for the strike pack? I'm thinking about Tamiya Medium Blue XF-18 with a couple of drops of Tamiya Dark Grey XF-24.

I use XF-18 1/3 2/3 XF-8 and a dash of X-10

It looks really good and the X-10 gives it a slight metal look that IMO make it look more real.

You can also use XF-50 and mix that with XF-8 that work too.

For a total TV look you can use XF-18 and a dash of olive green (forget which number), at the end of the day its up to you.

Once you find the colour you like mix a load of it as you`ll want all your future kits to be the same colour, you can store it in an old thinners jar or a small Jam jar or something air tight.

[warpaint22]

The colours listed look close 60% Navy blue and 40% medium blue but I like to add a few drops of dark sea grey. Ypur build up is awesome and I really like the mesh in the strike cannon, top job.

Edited October 25, 2007 by warpaint22