viperbite Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 (edited) Well... it's been sooooooooo long since I posted my last work here... To say sorry to you guys, I bring you new stuff. I can't tell that it's my brand new work,but it was finished last fall, the whole production time was like two weeks. The kit was build out of box, while building this I felt Hasegawa did make a good kit... I used pre-shading with regular shading during my painting job, and it looked pretty well... Hope you like it. The other two were also my old works, I build the B version for VF-31 Tomcatters and the A version for Top Gun Aggressor. Edited May 8, 2007 by viperbite Quote
Fly4victory Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 Wow, those look great. Did you use an oil wash of the panel lines? Quote
big F Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 I like it. Good to see your also quite handy with a camera too. Quote
Fred_Scuttle Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 Sweet looking kits. Thanks for showing them off! My god - that is fantastic. Airbrush? Any modeling tips for that finish? Quote
ChaosWarrior Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 Looking awesome! Very nice work! ChaosWarrior Quote
Berttt Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 Nicely done.... and for me the best part is that they are fully finished kits. I really should get a move on.... Quote
aaajin Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 the finishing on leg fast packs looks superb, looks real to me. I wish I have your skill man. Excellent job Quote
mojacko Posted May 17, 2007 Posted May 17, 2007 man those are awesome!!! great painting skills!!! as well as shooting skills!!! ... Quote
Dante74 Posted May 17, 2007 Posted May 17, 2007 Beautiful! And the same goes for the A an B versions. Quote
Poonman Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 yeah I want to hear how he did that. tips and tricks please! Quote
viperbite Posted May 19, 2007 Author Posted May 19, 2007 Well...I cannot say I have tips or tricks... but I do have something that can be shared... hope that can be helpful. First, you probably need to strengthen this area, carefully drill and a steel wire would be enough. Making these holes would do fine for the final effect And I also cut the fingers individually to make a good fit and effect Quote
Poonman Posted May 21, 2007 Posted May 21, 2007 you must have a really nice camera too. those first pics looked really professional. Quote
Ignacio Ocamica Posted May 21, 2007 Posted May 21, 2007 Really nice models!!! Wish I had some of your skills Quote
promethuem5 Posted May 22, 2007 Posted May 22, 2007 That is some amazing work. Your model looks really nice, and your photography skills are impressive as well. You should be very proud of this finished work and frankly, I'm floored by it. There is one naggling thing that I keep noticing tho that keeps it from being effectively perfect... there is some visible decal film, especially around the decals on the dark surfaces like the FPs and leg fins... there is some silvering under some of these decals, and it detracts from the overall very professional look of the model. I don't know if you used it or not, but an application or two of decal setting and/or softening solutions would blend those decals right into the dark surfaces, especially if the decals were applied to a glossy surface that you then matte-coated to further blend the decals in and make them look painted on. I personally can't wait to see more work from you! Quote
viperbite Posted May 22, 2007 Author Posted May 22, 2007 Thank you promethuem5, the things you pointed out did nag me, but frankly, I did use decal softer for them, but didn't work very well, especially on the dark color area, I guess a gloss coat under the decals is the ideal way. And let's continue... After the assemble, I used Gunze's Mr. White Surface 1000 for coating, it coule help you to check if there is anything not that good on the surface and can be as the color paniting basis, especially for the rubber parts. I used Alclad 2 Jet Exhaust mixed with some drops of Pale Burnt Metal for the metal color. Then I made the pre-shading, I used Gunze's Navy blue and NATO Brown. I used Gunze's c318 Light Grey mixed with some white for the basic color. Then I used even whiter grey for the high-light areas, and NATO Black for the strips, for me, pure black is too black. In the actual world nothing is pure black due to a lot of reasons esecially the sun light and air. Quote
promethuem5 Posted May 23, 2007 Posted May 23, 2007 Thank you promethuem5, the things you pointed out did nag me, but frankly, I did use decal softer for them, but didn't work very well, especially on the dark color area, I guess a gloss coat under the decals is the ideal way. Hasegawa decals and decal solutions usually don't mix anyways... They're really an odd duck at times. Quote
astromanED Posted May 26, 2007 Posted May 26, 2007 I'm anxious to read and see (great pics) your process for painting the leg fast packs. they, as well as the rest of the model, look phenominal. Quote
Beltane70 Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 There is one naggling thing that I keep noticing tho that keeps it from being effectively perfect... there is some visible decal film, especially around the decals on the dark surfaces like the FPs and leg fins... I didn't even notice those until I read this post! Good eyes, promethuem5! Still, even with the flaws, the kit looks amazing! Quote
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