decals vs stickers

[xsjado]

i have a couple of virgin macross toys and i don't know whether to go with stickers or decals. what are the positives and negatives of each as far as:

ease of cutting / applying

durability

anything i'm not thinking of

thanks!

[anime52k8]

Which you go with depends on what you plan to do with your valk.

If you intend to handle it regularly, and just looking for something to substitute factory Yamato stickers/give you more options, go with stickers.

If your going for a display only piece that’s getting other details. Go with decals.

The stickers look more toys like when applied, but are much more durable and easier to work with.

Decals look nicer, but are trickier to work with, and require the clear coating of the valk afterwards (all decals no matter how good will eventually dry out and have a tendency to flake off.)

Both will require cutting.

[thegunny]

(all decals no matter how good will eventually dry out and have a tendency to flake off.)

I've got 20+ year old models with still perfect decals. Guess I haven't waited long enough

Decals are thinner and conform to the surface better giving a painted on look if done properly. They require a lot more effort that stickers but are worth it if you don't want the toy with stickers look.

[Night Stalker]

I've got 20+ year old models with still perfect decals. Guess I haven't waited long enough

Neither have I, I guess. It depends on what the decal paper it was that the decal was printed on.

[big F]

Neither have I, I guess. It depends on what the decal paper it was that the decal was printed on.

I have a kit where the decals all started to peal a few years ago. Mostly on the areas where there is no paint and the decal is straight onto the plastic there was no clear seal etc put on this model as when I was 14 I didnt know about such things. I guess that they are pealing due to inferior quality or down to the release agent that is undoubtably on the plastic, as I never washed kits before making them untill a few years back this kit has been built for at least 20 years now FYI.

[Night Stalker]

Yeah I have the same thing on some of my kits that were built. When we were younger we didn't know all the tricks that we do now. Heck even a spray can paint job was a long way off when we were kids. Those were the days.

It all boils down to your surface, washing it, etc.

They adhere very well to a glossy and smooth surface as opposed ot a flat rough surface. Anytime you apply decals you should wash the area to remove any finger oils first and make it nice and clean. The glass smooth surface will get the better adhesion of course. As stated above, clear coating your valk will have the best results all around. Years ago, we would put the decals on any surface no matter what and clear coating was something we just didn't do mostly due to skill. Devin and I both use the same product for a coating over our decals to help protect them. But of course the more handling you do, anything is going to come off, including the original paint.

Edited February 17, 2007 by Night Stalker

[big F]

Hell back in the day using a spray can on something so small ended in a wasted can of paint and a sploggy undetailed run encrusted mess.

[anime52k8]

I've got 20+ year old models with still perfect decals. Guess I haven't waited long enough

did you put some sort of sealer or clear coat over the decals?

[thegunny]

did you put some sort of sealer or clear coat over the decals?

Er if you mean did I do it properly, then yes

I usually put a coat of gloss (Testor's Glosscoat) then apply the decals using a setting solution so they conform to model's surface better, let them dry for at least 24hrs than apply either a gloss or matt (Testor's Dulcote) coat over the the entire model as required.

You can eliminate the gloss coat part by painting the model in gloss paint to begin with then applying a matt finish if required after completion.

I always apply a finishing coat as I weather my models using pastels and they will rub off or smudge if not protected.