Skull-1 Posted January 30, 2007 Posted January 30, 2007 (I accidentally posted this over in Customizing. Please delete that one not this one.) I would love to know what our Valkyrie model experts use to flatten the paint on their models. I heard that Gunz-Sanyo (or whatever it is called) is non-yellowing. Well, I heard that about Kyrlon Matte Finish Clearcoat and found it to yellow with time. It didn't give me the flat finish I wanted any way so that one is out the window. Does anyone have GENUINE experience with a TESTOR'S DULLCOTE *EQUIVALENT* that will not yellow? I am talking raw flat, not matte, not glossy, but *FLAT*. That Gunz product has me particularly curious. Does it yellow with time on white paint? Many thanks in advance for your help. Quote
Duymon Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 (edited) Most people will tell you to mix future with a flat base (like Tamiya) and spray it on. You should be able to find some web-sites that have the correct ratios on mixing it. Works wonders and have never heard a complaint about it in the last 5 years that I've known the technique. Edited January 31, 2007 by Duymon Quote
Skull-1 Posted January 31, 2007 Author Posted January 31, 2007 Thanks. Of course, that would require me to learn to airbrush. *GASP* Quote
PetarB Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Gunze-Sangyo spray flat clear worked really well for me. It's been about 12 months since I first used it and I have seen no evidence of yellowing at all. Quote
jardann Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Some of the problem may be with the white paint too. I know a lot of modelers add a touch of blue to the white paint to avoid yellowing. Quote
Kylwell Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 I use Testor Acryl flat. Never had a yellowing issue (yet). Quote
Grayson72 Posted February 1, 2007 Posted February 1, 2007 I use Testors Dullcoat lacquer, oh well Quote
Skull-1 Posted February 3, 2007 Author Posted February 3, 2007 (edited) Anyone else? Mr. Cheng? Anyone? Will have to try that dot of blue in the white paint. Will that make it turn GREEN instead of yellow? LOL Edited February 3, 2007 by Skull-1 Quote
big F Posted February 4, 2007 Posted February 4, 2007 Anyone else? Mr. Cheng? Anyone? Will have to try that dot of blue in the white paint. Will that make it turn GREEN instead of yellow? LOL Why not just put a dot of yellow in At least then you wouldnt have to wait. Quote
TER-OR Posted March 4, 2007 Posted March 4, 2007 I like PolyScale's flat. Airbrush two fine coats, don't allow it to look glossy while airbrushing and you'll do fine. It's the best I've used so far, and no yellowing. Quote
promethuem5 Posted March 7, 2007 Posted March 7, 2007 What results have you guys gotten wtih some of these producst hand-brushing... I know that Valeijo Matte Medium works great brushed on, but something like Micro-Flat brushes on glossy... Quote
Jasonc Posted March 9, 2007 Posted March 9, 2007 I use the Model master flat. With any clearcoat, what I've found and tested is the amount that is sprayed on. I've found that some of the clearcoats seem to almost cook the paint. It may be some sort of chemical reaction, but what it looks like is that the more clearcoat you spray, the more yellow it becomes. There is a fine line that I've been able to do that lets you put spray your coat out, and it doesn't yellow white color at all. Best bet is to spray a junk piece white, and test out the various clears. Can't tell how much I've spent on finding what works for me. but light coats they always say, I would double that for clearcoats. Quote
cowie165 Posted March 13, 2007 Posted March 13, 2007 but something like Micro-Flat brushes on glossy... Micro-Flat users: Does this actually work!? I've tried brushing and spraying; both with little success. The last spray was over Future and it barely put a dent into the Future shine... Any pointers for this Micro-Flat noob? Quote
promethuem5 Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 I've been TOLD that Micro-Flat will airbrush on flat, but I'd believe you if you said it won't... Quote
cowie165 Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 I've been TOLD that Micro-Flat will airbrush on flat, but I'd believe you if you said it won't... Maybe that's the problem! It is pretty darn thick; after thinning it with water no doubt I've just diluted that much it doesn't dull the shine... Thanks p5 Quote
azrhino Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) For a flat finish I use Testors Dull Cote. For a Semi-gloss/Satin finish, I use Tamiya Flat Base mixed with Future and shot through an airbrush. It takes a little experimenting to get the right level of "glossiness" but shoots nicely. Edited March 14, 2007 by azrhino Quote
cowie165 Posted March 18, 2007 Posted March 18, 2007 Most people will tell you to mix future with a flat base (like Tamiya) and spray it on. You should be able to find some web-sites that have the correct ratios on mixing it. Works wonders and have never heard a complaint about it in the last 5 years that I've known the technique. 1st use, 1st complaint I sprayed about 1:8 flat base:Future on my black S-37. Now the beautiful black finish looks like it has been dusted with light grey? wtf? Please tell me it dries clear... Quote
Kylwell Posted March 18, 2007 Posted March 18, 2007 1st use, 1st complaint I sprayed about 1:8 flat base:Future on my black S-37. Now the beautiful black finish looks like it has been dusted with light grey? wtf? Please tell me it dries clear... Tamiya Flat Base seems to work well with Tamiya Gloss paints but I've had limited sucess using it to make Future flat. Limited in that the best I've ever gotten is a nice satin finish. And yes, it dried clearer than it sprayed. Quote
cowie165 Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 Sadly, 24h later, she still looks the same. Perhaps I didn't mix the base adequately or something. Perhaps it just shows up on a black kit more obviously. Cheers for the post Kyle Quote
cowie165 Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 (edited) Ugh. Double post. Edited March 19, 2007 by cowie165 Quote
Replicant Mechanic Posted March 27, 2007 Posted March 27, 2007 When I have finished painting a model I usually give it a coat of straight future (which makes it shiney) to act as a base for decal application. Having a smooth glossy surface really makes the decals go on easy. After that, some decal setting solution and another coat of future and what ever weathering I am doing and then I usually top it with Testor's Dullcoat. To prevent yellowing problems I put a single drop of blue paint in every bottle of white I buy before I use it. Mix it really well and you will never see the blue in the white or any yellowing later either. On an unrelated note: Drop a couple of BBs in the bottle with the drop of blue. It won't stop yellowing but the next time you use the paint it will help mix it when you are shaking the bottle. I do this with all my paints and it makes mixing a bottle you have not used in 6 months a lot easier. Quote
big F Posted March 27, 2007 Posted March 27, 2007 (edited) When I have finished painting a model I usually give it a coat of straight future (which makes it shiney) to act as a base for decal application. Having a smooth glossy surface really makes the decals go on easy. After that, some decal setting solution and another coat of future and what ever weathering I am doing and then I usually top it with Testor's Dullcoat. To prevent yellowing problems I put a single drop of blue paint in every bottle of white I buy before I use it. Mix it really well and you will never see the blue in the white or any yellowing later either. On an unrelated note: Drop a couple of BBs in the bottle with the drop of blue. It won't stop yellowing but the next time you use the paint it will help mix it when you are shaking the bottle. I do this with all my paints and it makes mixing a bottle you have not used in 6 months a lot easier. Thanks for the tips. One question though what do you thin your Future with ? Or do you just air brush it neat. I was thinking of trying it with Distilled Water, as a thinning agent Edited March 27, 2007 by big F Quote
Replicant Mechanic Posted March 28, 2007 Posted March 28, 2007 (edited) I don't thin the future. I want a nice glossy coat to act as a base for decal application and to be a barrier between my original paint job and any weathering I do. I put a second coat between the decals and the weathering so any weathered effects on the decals like chipping has to be done 1st. More than once I have made a mistake while weathering and the future let me correct it without having to worry about the paint job. If you are doing a wash the future is a good base for this too as the smooth surface will help the wash flow into seems. Just make sure to clean your airbrush really well after using it to put the future on. Another thing future is great for is giving the cockpit canopy a glassy look. This probably isn't news to anyone but just in case I will tell it anyway. Take the canopy and dip it in future. Pull it out slowly so you get a nice even coating. Holding it at an angle as you pull it out so that a corner is the last part out helps. You can touch the corner to a rag to remove the small amout of excess future that usually pools there. This gives a nice finish when dry and is a lot easier than using a buffing compound. Edited March 28, 2007 by Replicant Mechanic Quote
Kylwell Posted March 28, 2007 Posted March 28, 2007 I thin my Future with about 10% Tamiya thinner. Seems to help it go down smoother. Than and my Future has gotten thicker over the last few years. Quote
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