Yamato 1/60 scale YF-19 problem thread.

[Twoducks]

My FP version has really loose joints though. So they didn't fix that.

You can say that again!

I've only done a transformation cycle on it. Nice complex and fun transformation (a lot more enjoyable than the 21), but the REAAAALLY loose arms dampers this. The right one can't have the shoulder angled.

Posabilitty is weak (specially due to the looseness) when compared to the 1/48 king. The non locking cheast is REALLY anoying.

Another thing, I feel like the wings should lock better in fighter but I can't. Haven't tried the FP in plane mode yet.

[Sumdumgai]

Fast packs should tighten up the YF-19 in fighter mode. Well... It does for mine.

[DarkReaper]

Fast packs are the worst things I can do to my yf-19.

[Getsuga Tenshou]

Hi guys. Bought my very first valk last week which so just happens to be a YF-19 with fold set.

I just transformed it to Gerwalk and Battroid mode these past few days. I posed it around for a bit in Battroid mode. However after 2 or 3 poses, the hip part (the part connecting the torso and the legs) started to get loose. Now I couldnt do the exact same poses which I did just earlier. Is there a way to sort of tighten up that particular spot? Please help meeeeeeeee.

[ruskiiVFaussie]

Hey man, try taking apart the pieces and layer them with clear nail polish.

[arrow]

i just transformed my 19 last night after having it for a few months. Does the 21 stand on its own in battroid mode( I was wondering why they added a stand)?

[m0n5t3r]

21 is pretty hard to pose standing w/ the small feet esp. when the ankles are fully extended as it should be in b-mode. i think the included stand w/c is the same w/ the sv-51's is just a way to charge for more $$$

BTW, has anybody bought the supposed "re-stock/re-issue" of the standalone YF-19 that was (and still is) made available again on Yamato's website a couple of months ago? I heard from one local shop that its supposed to be w/ the fixes according to correspondence from Yamato... but i want to make sure from somebody who's bought one recently...

[shadow strikers]

Just what we need, another -19 thread. Anyway, I'd like to address the primary, big, debilitating, sorrow-inducing, major problem experienced by some -- the fuselage problem. I posted a picture of what to look for in Graham's review thread, but I suspect it will escape some, as the thread has grown to 50 pages as of now.

I hope this thread is allowed to remain, not to induce panic or Yamato-bashing, but to inform. I hope this is helpful. If you have stress marks (or a break), please post up so that we can find out how widespread this is -- hopefully we only have a few, isolated cases; also please include when (approximate date) you ordered or received your impaired -19. For those that have a -19, here's what to look for: white stress marks under the black screw heads.

maybe you should contact yomato and tell them to use that new ab plastic that is like super tough durible and dosnt brake i mean they used it on other figures tell them to remake that with ab plastic and it that add die cast then less plastic to worry about

[Pierre]

Aren,t most of the 19's core upper arm parts made of pom.

[UN Spacy]

21 is pretty hard to pose standing w/ the small feet esp. when the ankles are fully extended as it should be in b-mode. i think the included stand w/c is the same w/ the sv-51's is just a way to charge for more $$$

BTW, has anybody bought the supposed "re-stock/re-issue" of the standalone YF-19 that was (and still is) made available again on Yamato's website a couple of months ago? I heard from one local shop that its supposed to be w/ the fixes according to correspondence from Yamato... but i want to make sure from somebody who's bought one recently...

Did you remember to use the ankle locks at the back?

They make the YF-21 much easier to stand in Battroid.

[stram8777]

I would like to try and order replacement hinges from Overdrive that were talked about in this thread. Does anyone happen to know what part numbers they are? I can't seem to find this information in my instructions/manual.

[indigofx28]

I would like to try and order replacement hinges from Overdrive that were talked about in this thread. Does anyone happen to know what part numbers they are? I can't seem to find this information in my instructions/manual.

when I ordered replacement parts for the 21 I called it what it was. in example right wing parts, fuselage parts behind the cockpit. etc.

over drive is pretty good it may take a bit but there good.

[melbin234]

i bought my yf-19 last jan, and left it inside the cabinet, then i tried to transform it for the first time at battroid mode last feb 21,. it was already a disappointment everything was so loose and to my surprise the head part fell off thinking maybe its just a loose connection but NO it turned out to be a big crack which causes the head and hand part, to be detached from the body.

after experiencing this, sad to say, im not a yamato fan anymore but still a macross die hard, im suppose to buy the vf-1a 1/48 hayao kaizaki, vf-1a with super &strike parts hikaru, and the vf-oa......

its my hard earned money.....

and im buying a new and free defect toy not a problem toy, which causes sleepless nights....

im sorry for being too harsh on yamato.

[edwin3060]

So thats.. what, 3 cases of the YF-19 neck having problems now? Its surprising that it is coming up now so many years after the YF-19 was launched.

[Cent]

probably not such a great idea to newly stress the neck of untransformed YF-19's after allowing the plastics to brittle over the years.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

I can't remeber how many times I transformed my YF-19 (bought it december 2006 when it came out), so far so good.

The only problems are a crooked gunpod and a loose shoulder flap!!!

[UN_MARINE]

you guys might want to check the hip parts beside the neck part with said fracture.

right in front of the painted gray arrow/line detail & behind the intake.

mine has fractures on both hip/intake parts, they go all the way through to the gray hip balljoint part.

it's amazing they even cracked there, all my YF19 does is stand. i don't even transform it much.

EDIT: pic!

there it is right in the middle of the picture.

sorry about the bad phone camera pic.

Edited February 24, 2009 by UN_MARINE

[edwin3060]

Oooh. I guess Yamato's plastics do become enbrittled over time then.

[Cent]

What I'm saying is... If you've never transformed your YF-19 before, you mind as well not do it at all after leaving it there for years. The fuselage plastic has probably gotten brittle, and pegs that hold the neck together hasn't been worn out enough to allow a smooth, stressless transformation.

So either break in your YF-19 right away, or don't transform it past gerwalk.

[wolfx]

No cracks appearing on mine YET....but i feel afraid now.

I wonder what Beware of Blast has to say about these issues, being the "yamatoed" man that he is. Where's he these days anyway?

[m0n5t3r]

no cracks yet on mine w/c i got just last year... but i did loosen the screw w/c is on the right side of the neck to relieve the stress it was putting on the plastic w/c might have caused the crack on melbin's 19...

[melbin234]

hm..... plastic becoming brittle after years or even months of storage.....

better find another toy line that would last at least 5 years without problem

[mpchi]

The theory of brittle yamato plastic after some years might actually be true. Yesterday, my first release 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru just had its right arm elbow swivel cylinder peg broke off clean while I was posing it. It was in display case in the past years with some posing or transformation only once in a long while. That cylinder peg broke off clean from the 'disc', dismembering the entire lower right arm. Looks like just posing and the ratchet elbow had been stressing that peg little by little as it get weaker through time, then broke off without any force needed, like what you would normally pose the arm. Needless to say, 'yamatoed!' once again.

I don't see similar crack on my YF-19 just yet, though I leave it in battroid mode mostly. But wouldn't surprise me if issues start surfacing as the plastic gets older.

Edited February 25, 2009 by mpchi

[eugimon]

man, all these reports freaked me out, I broke mine down the other night to check for stress marks or cracks, all good so far.

[edwin3060]

Just a point in Yamato's defence-- all plastics will eventually get brittle, whether it is because of plasticizer migration or oxidation of the polymer chains. Dyed plastics (like Yamato uses) may get brittle even faster, depending on the type of dye used. It is just part and parcel of having a plastic product, just like how metal products will eventually corrode over time. I really don't think that Yamato should be faulted for this here.

[mpchi]

Just a point in Yamato's defence-- all plastics will eventually get brittle, whether it is because of plasticizer migration or oxidation of the polymer chains. Dyed plastics (like Yamato uses) may get brittle even faster, depending on the type of dye used. It is just part and parcel of having a plastic product, just like how metal products will eventually corrode over time. I really don't think that Yamato should be faulted for this here.

Not sure if thats a good defence though. I got some colored plastic figures (Takatoku, Takara, Bandai...etc.) thats more than 20-30 years old. I don't even see stress marks on their pegs thats not even half as thick as the broken swivel of my 1/48 1S.

[QuinJester]

I'm sure the thickness (or lack thereof) of the plastic itself makes the plastic breakdown more evident. On a heftier molded piece, any breakdown of plastics would be less noticeable and take longer to go into effect. The plastic around the neck of the YF-19 is almost eggshell-thin.

[edwin3060]

I'm sure the thickness (or lack thereof) of the plastic itself makes the plastic breakdown more evident. On a heftier molded piece, any breakdown of plastics would be less noticeable and take longer to go into effect. The plastic around the neck of the YF-19 is almost eggshell-thin.

Yep... if you want durable toys you end up with the Bandai DX VF-25... Every part is thick, which contributes to an overall chunky design. Yamato has no choice but to go with thin plastic in order to replicate the looks of the toy.

[QuinJester]

Yep... if you want durable toys you end up with the Bandai DX VF-25... Every part is thick, which contributes to an overall chunky design. Yamato has no choice but to go with thin plastic in order to replicate the looks of the toy.

For the most part, this is true, but the part that's broken in this case could easily have had more substantial plastic thickness.

Who knows, maybe it was just the grade of plastic they used. Hopefully in the future if they do any repaints they'll use a slightly more resilient mix of plastic. The plastic on the new V2 VF-1's feels much stronger and more sturdy than the stuff they used on the YF-19 and 1/48

[eriku]

Not sure if thats a good defence though. I got some colored plastic figures (Takatoku, Takara, Bandai...etc.) thats more than 20-30 years old. I don't even see stress marks on their pegs thats not even half as thick as the broken swivel of my 1/48 1S.

It's a pretty terrible defense, honestly (no offense, edwin). I've got many, MANY toys that are 20-30 years old and almost all of them are in perfect condition with no stressing, no degradation. Sure, they will degrade given more time, but they've already lived decades longer than a typical Yamato toy. Plastic should not stress and degrade after a few years. If it does it's crap plastic, crap design or both.

[edwin3060]

It's a pretty terrible defense, honestly (no offense, edwin). I've got many, MANY toys that are 20-30 years old and almost all of them are in perfect condition with no stressing, no degradation. Sure, they will degrade given more time, but they've already lived decades longer than a typical Yamato toy. Plastic should not stress and degrade after a few years. If it does it's crap plastic, crap design or both.

But how many of those toys have thin plastic parts necessary for anime accuracy? If that part of the neck was wider, the entire rear end would have to be wider. Granted, not by much but that may still have been a factor. Either way, it has only occurred in two cases so far, so I'd say that those were isolated cases-- heck, Bandai has had more broken screws for the VF-25! Let's not get our panties in a bunch over this.

[eriku]

But how many of those toys have thin plastic parts necessary for anime accuracy? If that part of the neck was wider, the entire rear end would have to be wider. Granted, not by much but that may still have been a factor. Either way, it has only occurred in two cases so far, so I'd say that those were isolated cases-- heck, Bandai has had more broken screws for the VF-25! Let's not get our panties in a bunch over this.

Many of them have thin plastic, actually. Regardless, thin plastic doesn't equal poor plastic. It sounds like you are saying stresses and breaks are perfectly acceptable in the name of anime accuracy.

As for the screw thing on the DX 25, what is the point of bringing that up? There have been far, far more problems with Yamatos plastic than there have been with the VF-25 screw. Aside from that, it's just not a good comparison because they are different materials and a screw isn't a part of the structure of the toy. It holds pieces together, and if it breaks it can be replaced. If a part of the structure of the toy breaks, it's broken and it will always be broken even if you slather it with glue. I'm not appoligizing for Bandai here, but lets put things into perspective: screws that break are obviously because they're either crappy screws (as so many are these days, even ones I get from the hardware store) or because they were inserted too tightly (or more likely both). Many of the parts that break on Yamato valks are due to a design flaw or poor choice of plastic for a particular area. This is not a dis on Yamato. They probably didn't forsee some of the problems that arise later or they probably would of done something differently. Perhaps they could have used POM on that part of the YF-19. I'm sure there are solutions besides, "Oh well, it just has to break and that's OK".

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

The plastic on the new V2 VF-1's feels much stronger and more sturdy than the stuff they used on the YF-19 and 1/48

Except the shoulder hinge.

Bandai has had more broken screws for the VF-25!

Yes and documented in another thread, and overall not as prevalent as a problem as the problems indicated here. More of isolated cases.

If a part of the structure of the toy breaks, it's broken and it will always be broken even if you slather it with glue. I'm not appoligizing for Bandai here, but lets put things into perspective: screws that break are obviously because they're either crappy screws (as so many are these days, even ones I get from the hardware store) or because they were inserted too tightly (or more likely both). Many of the parts that break on Yamato valks are due to a design flaw or poor choice of plastic for a particular area. This is not a dis on Yamato. They probably didn't forsee some of the problems that arise later or they probably would of done something differently. Perhaps they could have used POM on that part of the YF-19. I'm sure there are solutions besides, "Oh well, it just has to break and that's OK".

Agreed. Yamato used POM on the canards, so what's to stop them from using it elsewhere?

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Just a point in Yamato's defence-- all plastics will eventually get brittle, whether it is because of plasticizer migration or oxidation of the polymer chains. Dyed plastics (like Yamato uses) may get brittle even faster, depending on the type of dye used. It is just part and parcel of having a plastic product, just like how metal products will eventually corrode over time. I really don't think that Yamato should be faulted for this here.

That defence does not stand up to other collector targeted toys from other Japanese companies, big or small. Sure Yamato is a smaller company than some of their rivals, but they are going for the same target market, and the plastic ought to be strong enough, better, if not on par with their rivals if they want to compete. If not, their toys are little more than pre-built models that will eventually break. They've been in the industry for how long now? Surely translating complicated anime designs like the YF-21 and the SV-51(impressive engineering on that one) to perfect variable toys is much more difficult than choosing a plastic that doesn't break. That is one problem that I hope that Yamato rectifies, because they do make beautiful toys, but everyone, that goes for guys like me who play with the toys, to guys who leave them on display, hates having toys that eventually break. I don't think super glue will fix the SDF-1 if the arm falls off.

Great ambition and brilliant engineering, but come on make the things out of extremely durable materials that won't erode and break down over time. Choosing durable material has absolutely nothing to do with looks and anime accuracy.

[edwin3060]

Actually, choosing a plastic that doesn't break may be harder! Especially given that the parts are moulded in colour, which means that they have to use dyes etc. To see if a piece of plastic will break if you torque it after say 5 years, you actually do have to leave it there 5 years and then torque it--- there is no way of testing the material any other way that will allow you to extrapolate the life cycle. Yamato does have many, many problems with its engineering design and maybe choice of plastics, I'm just saying that in this ONE instance, they really should not be blamed.

I mean, you could demand that Yamato leaves a hundred YF-19s in their basement for 5 years before transforming once to see if it cracks, and then doing a statistical analysis to see if they should really use POM for that part, but that wouldn't get you anywhere.

Edited February 27, 2009 by edwin3060