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Posted

This turkey is JUST getting started.

I thought about using standard FAAST Pack boosters with the VT-1 legs because it looks mean. Not sure if I will or not.

HOWEVER.....

Please note the effects of yellowing UNDERNEATH the stickers. The areas not exposed to light remained white.

Posted (edited)

*sigh*

I can't get it to upload. Why does this happen? When I try to add a photo attachment I get:

"The page cannot be displayed

"The page you are looking for is currently unavailable. The Web site might be experiencing technical difficulties, or you may need to adjust your browser settings."

Edited by Skull-1
Posted

I can't get them up...

Even my FTP server is out of whack. UGH.

Posted (edited)

Jetfire... About to be disected... :)

[attachmentid=39462]

And a little spin on the FAAST Pack theory... :)

[attachmentid=39463] [attachmentid=39464]

Perhaps Orange is a better color?

[attachmentid=39465] [attachmentid=39467]

Sneak preview of the color scheme...

[attachmentid=39466]

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Edited by Skull-1
Posted

LoL love the Jetfire legs I have a pair that are so bad they look like they are in negative without the stickers. Good thing is when you add some paint it all goes away

Posted (edited)

If you want the easy method check out the posts following this one:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...mp;#entry433507

Using a BIC ROUNDSTICK Pen is the easiest method to make swivel thighs.

Some photos:

http://robotech-aod.com/images/ValkToys/Mo...0-%20BIC%20PEN/

IPB Image

Edited by Skull-1
Posted

Yeah Skulls method for thighs is by far the most simplest, and efective.

There are others but all are more work and not really any better. If you want Anime acurate then you need to do more work (trust me there) check my thread in my sig. If it`s just good old posability vs playability then Skulls your man no competition.

Posted

Yeah Skulls method for thighs is by far the most simplest, and efective.

There are others but all are more work and not really any better. If you want Anime acurate then you need to do more work (trust me there) check my thread in my sig. If it`s just good old posability vs playability then Skulls your man no competition.

i agree, you can't get much simpler than this.

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

A little before and after...

:)

Second swivel thigh installed. (This will be replaced with another one later--the angle is slightly off--once the new part is painted.)

IPB Image

Edited by Skull-1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Moving along slowly now...

:)

As much as I love having a Custom section, I'm afraid we're not getting as much attention here as we did in Toys... I'm seeing a lot of customs in that section that should be here, also. Should we post there now or what?

post-318-1180148702_thumb.jpg

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Posted

Moving along slowly now...

:)

As much as I love having a Custom section, I'm afraid we're not getting as much attention here as we did in Toys... I'm seeing a lot of customs in that section that should be here, also. Should we post there now or what?

As I have said before the 1/55 just needs its own section. Interest is high enough to grant it that. Even some sort of sub section in toys would be better than nothing.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

great custom....also wanted to make my 1:55 1S to a Super "O"... but i dunno where to start??? any tips u can share to us??? like how to start paint strip??? primering...painting and finishing??? any tips on how to will surely be appreciated ...thanks!!!

Posted

Thanks!

First thing is first... Start with a Jetfire so you can take advantage of the short nose.

I usually prep every single part by sanding it thoroughly, ESPECIALLY anywhere that parts touch or rub. If you don't prep these areas by adding some clearance for the paint that will be applied you'll wind up with lots of transformation scars.

I took the nose blisters and cut them off with a razor, then moved them down, filled the seams, and sanded them. This is a tough thing to do because of the lines where the nose halves come together. Thorough sanding will again save you a lot of misery.

I'm not a firm believer in primer. I think it can help, but if you use a quality paint it is not necessary and can be a detriment to keeping paint on the toy because it will make the overall paint applied thicker.

Finding custom parts is a must unless someone has some VT-1 armor lying around.

Pine-Sol works well for stripping paint. I use that on areas I can't get the stuff off with sanding.

What else???

Once everything is done... Clear coat. Apply decals. Micro Sol the decals. Clear coat. (Dull coat if necessary.) This makes the decals appear painted on.

Decide what mods you want to use and go for it...

Best of luck and keep us posted.

Posted

great step by step tip...thanks for the tip....just a question....can sanding the toy lessen the seems??? what type of paint do u think is better??? water based or lacquer type??? anyway will post my custom once i started it.....thanks again skull!!!

Posted

great step by step tip...thanks for the tip....just a question....can sanding the toy lessen the seems??? what type of paint do u think is better??? water based or lacquer type??? anyway will post my custom once i started it.....thanks again skull!!!

WET SANDING helps with the seams in a huge way. Make sure you have the parts you are sanding assembled if they are compliments--i.e. arm halves, shoulder halves, fuselage halves, etc.--because you won't get them down properly unless you do.

On some of mine I don't care about the seams as much as I should. I guess I am impatient to get them on the shelf... But it *IS* worth the time.

I use almost exclusively RUSTOLEUM products. Rustoleum Painter's Choice is really very good. For clear coats and dull coats I think Mr. Hobby is the best.

Posted

looks like it is going well. I find it easier to just buy a Boxed ostrich haha j/k im just lucky. just scored my third boxed ostrich. Cheap too.

Posted

well...were doin it the harder way to get a Super "O"....ehehehehe...maybe for a beginer like me....i should just stick on re-painting a 1S rather than chopping off some parts and end up regreting at the end....there's always room for improvement but think ill do it step by step....

Posted
well...were doin it the harder way to get a Super "O"....ehehehehe...maybe for a beginer like me....i should just stick on re-painting a 1S rather than chopping off some parts and end up regreting at the end....there's always room for improvement but think ill do it step by step....

The important thing is to do what you feel happy with doing. Work your way up to the harder stuff as you go along. You`ll be amazed at how quickly you come allong in the skills area. 1/55`s are great for this.

Only work with busted up and yellowed Jetfires and $5 bootlegs as there is a plentyful supply on eBay.

The really bad thing about 1/55 is you just sit there and think "on the next one I`ll do......."

Posted

The important thing is to do what you feel happy with doing. Work your way up to the harder stuff as you go along. You`ll be amazed at how quickly you come allong in the skills area. 1/55`s are great for this.

Only work with busted up and yellowed Jetfires and $5 bootlegs as there is a plentyful supply on eBay.

The really bad thing about 1/55 is you just sit there and think "on the next one I`ll do......."

That is the true curse of the 1/55 right there!!!!!

Or you do like I do and have 6 of them at various stages of completion from 80%-95% and none finished.

I am definitely going to finish the Harriska gray "J" this week. I have to. Otherwise it's just one more thing left undone.

I really made it look like a beat up POS. The sad thing is that it looks like I did it on accident instead of on purpose... But it looks just like a Hornet picture I have so I know I did it right.

Oh well...

Posted

Or you do like I do and have 6 of them at various stages of completion from 80%-95% and none finished.

We are so on the same wavelength

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