Help with 1/100 Valk. Kit

[skull_leader_v1]

I recently got one of the older ARII 15th aniversary resissue 1/100 VF-J figher kits(hikaru tv colors) and i am getting around to doing the build. I havent built a kit this small in a long time and this will also be the first time i use an air brush. first question is-

the ARII instruction sheet calls for three colors. I went with a little more of an of white for the white and the black looked from the pitctures to be a matt black so i picked those up. the red i couldnt find a really good match for. Its lised on the sheet as H3... anyone know what this means and what would be a good match and where i can get it?

It has water transfer decals which for me are kind of odd as its been almost 10 years sence i used that kind of decal(on a pinewood derby car too, never on a plastic model and never something as small as some of these) I guess the point of this would be

1)how do i even aply these things?

and

2) do you have anytips for keeping them straight and flush when aplying them?

This Kit has a 1/6 scale soft vinyl hikaru figure with it. any pointers on painting him? he's already kind of a peachy flesh tone, but it doesnt really match the skintones in the anime.

lastly, i want to make shure on the order of this-

Primer- Paint- Decals- sealer- Panal lines- Sealer? is that right or is there anything missing or anything that needs to be dropped?

[Chad Dunham]

Hi, I can help with a few of your questions. "H3" refers to Gunze Sangyo red paint. Personally, I think plain Testors enamel red is a pretty good match. Are you using acrylic or enamel paint?

If you really want to get picky, the "official" color mixes for those old kits go something like this (all refer to Gunze Sangyo paint):

"Bare White"=95% H1 Gloss White + 1% H16 Yellow-Green + 4% H40 Flat Base

"Bare Red"=96% H3 Gloss Red + 1 or 2 drops of H2 Gloss Black + 4% H40 Flat Base

"Metal Black"=45% H18 Steel + 45% H2 Gloss Black + 10% H40 Flat Base

Hasegawa says to use FS36622 Camouflage Gray for the white areas, BS638 Dark Sea Gray for the inlets and Steel for the feet, and Shine Red for the red. All are available in Tamiya or Gunze Sangyo paint.

As for the water-slide decals, all you really have to do is submerge the decal in hot water for several seconds, let it rest for a few seconds, then use a brush to put it on the kit. If you pre-wet the kit with water or special decal setting solution, you can manipulate the decals a little more before they settle down into place. Be sure you put a sealer onto your kit before you apply decals if you are using flat paint. Otherwise, the decals will "silver" and won't set properly. A lot of people airbrush Future floor wax over the paint for this.

Good luck!

Chad

[skull_leader_v1]

Hi, I can help with a few of your questions. "H3" refers to Gunze Sangyo red paint. Personally, I think plain Testors enamel red is a pretty good match. Are you using acrylic or enamel paint?

If you really want to get picky, the "official" color mixes for those old kits go something like this (all refer to Gunze Sangyo paint):

"Bare White"=95% H1 Gloss White + 1% H16 Yellow-Green + 4% H40 Flat Base

"Bare Red"=96% H3 Gloss Red + 1 or 2 drops of H2 Gloss Black + 4% H40 Flat Base

"Metal Black"=45% H18 Steel + 45% H2 Gloss Black + 10% H40 Flat Base

Hasegawa says to use FS36622 Camouflage Gray for the white areas, BS638 Dark Sea Gray for the inlets and Steel for the feet, and Shine Red for the red. All are available in Tamiya or Gunze Sangyo paint.

As for the water-slide decals, all you really have to do is submerge the decal in hot water for several seconds, let it rest for a few seconds, then use a brush to put it on the kit. If you pre-wet the kit with water or special decal setting solution, you can manipulate the decals a little more before they settle down into place. Be sure you put a sealer onto your kit before you apply decals if you are using flat paint. Otherwise, the decals will "silver" and won't set properly. A lot of people airbrush Future floor wax over the paint for this.

Good luck!

Chad

for the white i wound up getting the Tamiya spray on flat white and the semi gloss black. so im pretty sure those are acrylics right? Im not a fan of testors enamels due to the messes ive made of some Gundam kits.(even after letting the paint dry, red smudes still made it onto every other part. )

where can i get the floor polish?

thanks so much

[Chad Dunham]

where can i get the floor polish?

If you're in the USA, you should be able to get it anywhere there's a decent selection of cleaning products (Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc.).

[ChaosWarrior]

Well, it seems like you got most answer already, but since I asked about colors for another of ARIIs 1/100 kits here:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21191

I've learned a few things. First all colors, as Chad said, referred to is Gunze Sangyo and if you look closely on the instructions there are lines pointing to some parts and there the letter H with an encircled number indicating the matching GS color for that part. Also Hasegawas instructions provided on this site is very useful.

Isn't the Hikaru rather small, like 1/24 (mine is)? I think most color brands have skin tones that will be useful as a base color.

ChaosWarrior

[skull_leader_v1]

for the white i wound up getting the Tamiya spray on flat white and the semi gloss black. so im pretty sure those are acrylics right? Im not a fan of testors enamels due to the messes ive made of some Gundam kits.(even after letting the paint dry, red smudes still made it onto every other part. )

where can i get the floor polish?

thanks so much

can this be used for sealing the whole kit after all is aid and done, or should i use a spray on clear coat?

[skull_leader_v1]

primed it this afternoon. so ill probably begin to do assembly next weekend. does anyone have tips on working with contour putty?

[cowie165]

Future floor polish becomes the clear coat.

Once you have finished with colours and assembly, spray future (light coats, don't go to town), add decals, future again, decal, weather, top coat (satin or flat? up to you).

Mark

[skull_leader_v1]

Future floor polish becomes the clear coat.

Once you have finished with colours and assembly, spray future (light coats, don't go to town), add decals, future again, decal, weather, top coat (satin or flat? up to you).

Mark

is that to say that i still use the polish for the top coat, and if so how do i get the diff. finishes? im sorry, im new to using clear coats, untill this kit i just primed, painted, decaled, did the panel lines and stuck it on the shelf ;

[cowie165]

The choice of top coat will depend on which finish you are after. Say you are making a 1/24 car: you're looking for a shiny gloss top coat, therefore you'd use Future.

If you're looking for a satin/semi-gloss, maybe for mecha or a small scale gloss finish, you could use Future with Flat Base added.

If you want an aircraft/valk with a matte finish, you could use any of the flat finishes from your local hobby store.

One of the coolest parts of using a sealing/clear coat over your base paint work is that if you bugger up the panel lines or weathering, you can simply wipe it off with your solvent and then start again; all without damaging your base colours.