Warning

[kensei]

Note for the hips on the VF-1. When transforming from GERWALK to Battroid mode, you will want to begin to move the legs at the hips. However, if the legs get stuck, and you have to apply more than finger tight tension on the thing to get it moving, DON'T. Stop transforming this thing at once.

Upon discussion, Valk-1S and I have come to the conclusion that Yamato has installed the rubber polycap that surrounds the metal ball joint of the hip soon after paint application. This causes the paint to stick and seize the leg in place. It is recommended that you remove the leg, undo the block surrounding the hip and removing the polycap and cleaning the ball joint. You will regret forcing the joint because you will crack the block surrounding the hip, which will lead to a looser leg.

Edited December 14, 2006 by kensei

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Thanks for the warning!!!

I checked all of my valks and none has the blocks broken. Well, the legs never got stuck

[eugimon]

that's a really great tip, thank you!

Also, I noticed on mine, that sometimes the socket for the hip joint isn't placed properly on of the sides of block, leaving weak/thin areas.

[promethuem5]

Haha, thanks for the warning Kensei.... that happened to my VF-1S Roy from the last run... big ole' chunk of the sucket broke off, so I had to get a replacement hip socket from here on the boards... I'm pretty sure you're right, the rubber bit is slighty bonded with the paint on the ball...

[nightmareB4macross]

This is very bad news. So, could this mean, valks sitting in dry storage in some collectors closet could actually be binding at the hips?

[kensei]

No worries guys.

This is very bad news. So, could this mean, valks sitting in dry storage in some collectors closet could actually be binding at the hips?

Not really a problem, the fix will take less than five minutes.

[promethuem5]

NB4M, I think it was more a specific production run problem where they assembled the hips too soon after painting the hip bar and it bonded there, so the problem was Out of Box, cuz 2 other 1/48s sit in poses for a good long time and never had any problems...

[kensei]

Begs the question if any of the first editions actually ever had this problem. It happened on my 3rd ed Roy, 1st issue Hikaru VF-1J, and lately VF-1J Stealth.

[promethuem5]

Wow, that many? it only happened on my 3rd ed Roy...

[Hurin]

Begs the question if any of the first editions actually ever had this problem. It happened on my 3rd ed Roy, 1st issue Hikaru VF-1J, and lately VF-1J Stealth.

Both hips on my first release Hikaru 1A cracked. But, I'm not sure if we're talking about the same cracking. Mine cracked on the actual hip piece (also the intake in fighter mode).

[kensei]

The parts that I mention are BD2 and 3.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...c=7776&st=0

If you actually got the intakes cracked, man, that is bad luck.

[Hurin]

The parts that I mention are BD2 and 3.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...c=7776&st=0

If you actually got the intakes cracked, man, that is bad luck.

Yep, different part in my case (R-L1 and L-L1). But wasn't a big deal. Found spares here.

[do not disturb]

are you guys for real? these things are breaking like that?!?!?

i guess the 1/48 ain't all that durable afterall.

[jenius]

Anyone have a pic of a cracked one? I'm tryin' to get a better idea for what's happening... I'm a pretty visual guy.

[UN Spacy]

I'd also like some pics of the so called damage.

[mojacko]

pix please b4 i frickin crack my newly purchased VF-1J....

[kensei]

Sorry, threw the piece away before I took a pic and cannabilised it from my 1st ed Roy and sold the rest.

Just follow the link I posted above, and take a look at that part. Imagine a crack going right through from one side of the screw to the other.

Just take note of the first post, if it turns easily with normal finger pressure it's fine. If it doesn't, and you ant to apply more force, stop and undo it.

I'll take pics of the part soon, with the fix.

Edited December 19, 2006 by kensei

[promethuem5]

Like kensei said, if it works, dont worry, but if OUT OF THE BOX the joint doesn't move, stop applying pressure and disassemble it... it seems to be a manufacturing hiccup, not a developing problem for already handled valks...

Wish I could take a pic of the damage as I still have the broken hip for my Roy, but the box and valk are way away in storage right now...

[mojacko]

kensei mentioned to remove the legs of the valks....does this mean disassembling it completely??? and how do we clean it BTW???

sori for the stupid question....just afraid i might ruined my 1st ever yummy.....

[kensei]

transform it to gerwalk mode and swing the legs down to the battorid position but don't transform it anymore.

Pull the legs directly out sideways, they will detach.

Then get to work on the block. You need a phillips head screwdriver.

[Valk-1S]

Like kensei said, if it works, dont worry, but if OUT OF THE BOX the joint doesn't move, stop applying pressure and disassemble it... it seems to be a manufacturing hiccup, not a developing problem for already handled valks...

Wish I could take a pic of the damage as I still have the broken hip for my Roy, but the box and valk are way away in storage right now...

Yup exactly what have been said. If you can't turn the legs from the ball joint, don't force it. A couple of my third issue Roys were like that. After removing the legs and opening up the parts you can see the paint stuck to the rubber piece. Once you remove the rubber piece from the ball joint and put it back, it should be okay, but test it again to see whether you can move the leg. If not, open it again and try cleaning the paint off.