Glues for models

[Gerwalker]

This was asked in Myersjessee post (angel bird post) and Pfunk suggest me to post it in a new topic so, here we go:

QUOTE (wm cheng @ Oct 8 2003, 08:13 AM)

Hmm, I guess I would be treated like a kid too (at age 34) - I use testors glue too!!

Although, I have been looking at some of those other types of glues now. I've used CA (crazy) type glues, liquid cement, white, and epoxies, but there are two other types that I may want to explore. One is this Tenax stuff, some kind of chemical solvent, and the other seems to be Methyl Hydrate (?) - I think they bond acrylic display cases with this stuff. My main reason thus far for staying away was that I feel I have been breathing in enough bad stuff that I don't need some other solvent in my lungs. I was hoping that I could find something that bonds as quickly as CA, but stronger and easier to clean up leaving no white film or residue. If anyone has ever used these glues, I would love to hear your experiences

William (sorry Jesse for this digression from your wonderful model):

Methanol [67-56-1]

Methyl hydroxide

Synonyms: Carbinol; colonial spirit; columbian spirit; columbian spirits; Methanol; Methanol ; METHYL ALCOHOL (METHANOL); ; Methylol; monohydroxymethane; pyroxylic spirit; Wood; Wood alcohol; wood naphtha; wood spirit;

That stuff is highly toxic, mainly if you drink it but fumes are also nasty and I doubt it can be used to glue plastic. Maybe the stuff you mentioned is Methyl ethyl ketone or MEK

[78-93-3]

Synonyms: 2-Butanone; butan-2-one; Butanone; Ethyl methyl ketone; meetco; MEK; methyl acetone; Methyl ethyl ketone; Methyl Ethyl Ketone ; Oxobutane.

This exactly what Testors liquid glue is made of and is not very toxic (at least is not carcinogenic)

Avoid chlorinated solvents as trichloromethane and the like (they are excelent glues for plastic but they can also destroy your liver as well)

Here you can find some good info about glues:

Modeling glues

Fine scale forums about glues...

There is also some cyanoacrylate (aka super glue) that doesn't fog but it's very expensive compared to the normal type (I can find it in my Loctite catalogue if you want)

I personally use Revell Contacta Liquid cement (the one with a needle) and super glue as my basic modeling glues. Sometimes I use Testors (I ran out of that and I'm trying to get some MEK for free instead of buying more )

What do you people use for glueing?

EDIT: for adding comments and links

Edited October 8, 2003 by Gerwalker

[VF-19]

I actually use three types of glues. A thick glue, a somewhat thinner glue (has the consistency of some oils), and a really thin glue (water like consistency).

The thick glue is the regular stuff in the testors orange tube.

The thinner glue is a Xylene based glue, also from testors.

The really thin glue is Tamiya's modeling cement.

From what I found, the thick glue is great for stuff with lots of gaps, the thinner stuff is great for snap together models (like the Gundam kits), and the thin glue is excellent for small parts that attach to a larger part.

That's my two cents.

Oh and I also use 90 minute epoxy and superglues on occasion, but they're really for repairs for when I break somthing (like my Max 1A. See the What's wrong with my Yamato thread in the Toys forum to see what I did to fix it).

[ewilen]

I'm a very inexperienced and, frankly, lazy modeller, but I do have one thing I've learned about CA: it dries harder (much harder) than polystyrene. So be careful, especially if using it as a filler, because when you sand it down, you're likely to sand down the plastic and leave the cement. (CA can be used as a filler either in the Zap-a-gap formulation and/or by putting baking soda in the gap and adding crazy glue.)

[VF-19]

I'm a very inexperienced and, frankly, lazy modeller, but I do have one thing I've learned about CA: it dries harder (much harder) than polystyrene. So be careful, especially if using it as a filler, because when you sand it down, you're likely to sand down the plastic and leave the cement. (CA can be used as a filler either in the Zap-a-gap formulation and/or by putting baking soda in the gap and adding crazy glue.)

That's why I use putty and regular modeling glue for filling seams... I'd rather have the stuff that I use to fill seams to be softer than the plastic around it...

[ewilen]

Yup, I've learned my lesson. But what I hate about the putty I've tried (Testors) is that it flakes. What's do you recommend?

[David Hingtgen]

Despite being harder, I much, much, much prefer CA as a filler as opposed to any epoxy/putty. No matter how fine, they all have grain, but CA does not, and it utterly doesn't shrink. It also "flows" and self-levels a bit---smoother filling/seams. I always mask off the surrounding plastic before sanding. And if need be, you can polish CA as smooth and clear as glass--it's certainly the only filler you can use on clear parts.

PS--anyone know of a SLOW-drying xylene/toulene (like Testors) out there? When you're gluing 18+ inches on each side, one piece, it almost always dries before I can get cement all the way around the hull, and have sections that don't adhere. (Nothing's worse than the "pop" sound made from a submarine splitting in half, then finding the glue dried before you even got the two halves together)

[Myersjessee]

I was using a lot of Ambroid Pro Weld....but its the Methylene Chloride stuff....not so good for you...works well on models though.,..

[VF-19]

Yup, I've learned my lesson. But what I hate about the putty I've tried (Testors) is that it flakes. What's do you recommend?

Hmm... Well there is only two putties I've tried.

Squadron White

Tamiya standard putty

By far I like Tamiya putty. Less shrink, sands smoother, and takes a little bit longer to dry. I like it when my putty takes a tad bit longer to dry, as it leaves me with more working room. While squadron's is ok, It doesn't compare to Tamiya.

David:

Have you tried the regular Testor's glue, the one in the Orange coloured metal tube. While it is in a gel-like consistency, it does take a bit of time to dry.

The other option for you would be to get some 30 min epoxy and use that to glue the halves of your ships together... Although, I'm not quite sure how well the epoxy will hold...

If all else fails, you could line up the two halves, tape them together, and then using some spare plastic sprue parts, you could use that to hold the two halves together.

Oh well, experimentation has always lead to interesting stuff.

[TER-OR]

I've taken to using Tenax most of the time, with the capillary applicator. If you align your parts well, and tape them together, you just touch the joint and it flows in place. Dries quickly too. Essentially similar to Ambroid.

MEK and MeCl2 are much more dangerous than a lot of other glues.

For instance, the microscale and non-toxic testors cements are just orange terpenes. Not toxic, but very slow solvents. I generally prefer to do all the dryfitting first and then spot on the Tenax.

[Gerwalker]

I've found this site looking for Tenax composition. The link deals with glues, fillers and plastics:

Thinking about plastics

[kanata67]

I still use "super gel" [availible at wallmart's tool dept] as it's as strong as super glue and stays where you put it so you don't have to deal with any of that nasty glue drippage. My only warning is don't get in the habit of taking the top off with your mouth while you use it as you will sooner or later miss when putting the cap back on and glue your lips together. The really sad thing is I've done it more than once

[nedragdnuos]

Hi, I'm just wondering what do you guys use for gluiing clear parts to plastic without having the glue either fog it up or run inside and ruin the clarity.... Ive heard that PVA wood glue work well and dries clear, but its a bit thick for some delicate thin sections...

[Gerwalker]

Hi, I'm just wondering what do you guys use for gluiing clear parts to plastic without having the glue either fog it up or run inside and ruin the clarity.... Ive heard that PVA wood glue work well and dries clear, but its a bit thick for some delicate thin sections...

Hi,

Vinyl glues (a.k.a. white glue) can be diluted with water if you need it thinner.

[nedragdnuos]

Thanks Gerwalker, I'll give that a try today and see how the parts turn out!!

[David Hingtgen]

There are special "clear parts" glues. Micro-kystal-kleer (sp?) is one. Also look for watchmaker's cement--for gluing quartz crystals. But diluted white glue is a popular option.

PS--don't dare use super glue. Worst thing in the world for clear.

[Gerwalker]

PS--don't dare use super glue. Worst thing in the world for clear.

Except if they are the non-fog cyanoacrilate (CA) glue type (a.ka. super glue).

Yes, David, there are non-fog CA suitable for clear parts. Check here:

look for Poly Zap glue

or here:

Super-Gold and Super-Gold+