GutsAndCasca Posted July 8, 2006 Posted July 8, 2006 (edited) I have blue masking tape, for smooth surfaces. It works great, but sometimes, it is just a pain in the azz to have to chop it down and into tiny enough pieces to cover some spots. Is there something else out there I can use instead of having to use tape? If there's something reliable and form-fitting (and versatile) can someone please let me know? Thank you! (I know substitute is spelled wrong in the title. Damn. I was in a hurry, I gotta' get back to playing DYRL on PS2!) -- (ARMD mode) Edited July 8, 2006 by GutsAndCasca Quote
mojacko Posted July 8, 2006 Posted July 8, 2006 ever try liquid friscket??? not so sure w/ d spelling but its sounds like it....eheheheh Quote
big F Posted July 8, 2006 Posted July 8, 2006 There are several liquid mask products available I have used the Humbrol one in the past. It paints on and you can peal it off after Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted July 8, 2006 Author Posted July 8, 2006 right on. Thanx! liquid stuff. I'll have to look that up. Quote
MechTech Posted July 9, 2006 Posted July 9, 2006 Dudes, I just read in Fine Scale Modeler where one guy had problems masking OVER his other paint jobs whithout removing the masking tape and tearing it up. It's slightly off topic, but here goes. He uses slightly damp coffee filter paper! Sounds funky enough to work too! Model Base Guy once suggested Glad "Press and Seal" too. - MT Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted July 10, 2006 Author Posted July 10, 2006 (edited) I will check into all of these. I bought some liquid stuff the other day and tried it out... worked okay. But if you don't get it think enough it bleeds paint. - THICK, I meant thick. Edited July 10, 2006 by GutsAndCasca Quote
big F Posted July 10, 2006 Posted July 10, 2006 I will check into all of these. I bought some liquid stuff the other day and tried it out... worked okay. But if you don't get it think enough it bleeds paint. - THICK, I meant thick. 414801[/snapback] Yeah thats the problem I had with it. The method I ended up using was to mask out the area as much as possible with tape and then fill the edge of the area with liquid mask. The only problem is you have to build it up and it can take ages. Also the new layer of mask can make the other layers become wet again. Once you paint it you have to remove it a few days later as it sometimes wont come off. You can also liquidmask paint in little remove tabs made of scrap paper to help to get it off after paint the area as it can be a pain sometimes. Quote
Mechwarrior Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 I have had good results with tinfoil on many models myself, that and masking tape (low adehsive). Quote
Naked Posted July 13, 2006 Posted July 13, 2006 (edited) I havent done any model building in years, but I paint cars for a living. You'd be amazed how well Vasiline works works for lil masking areas where tape wont stick or can get tape samll enough. Lil bit on a brush , q-tip, or dental glue brush.Try it out ,wipes right off, Pam works too. I use these for droping a lil clear in a fish eye or just lil touch up. Dental glue brush Edited July 13, 2006 by Naked Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted July 13, 2006 Author Posted July 13, 2006 Vaseline? That's an interesting one. Quote
big F Posted July 13, 2006 Posted July 13, 2006 Oooooh! dental supplies. The source of so many modeling aids. One of our clients is a dentist and he let me loose in his stock cupboard. Quote
big F Posted July 13, 2006 Posted July 13, 2006 Yeah it still cost me some, but I was like ooh I could use that for... and that would make a really good .... etc. But He said that the dental probes and stuff that they use usually get chucked after they get blunt so he said you should ask dentists to hold them for you as they make great modleing tools. I have various scrapers and probes and such and a small spatula thing they use for applying the stuff that make fillings. the pointy probe is great for scribing pannel lines Quote
olivers Posted July 14, 2006 Posted July 14, 2006 I use Tamiya tape, comes in 6/10/18mm then Mr Masking Sol Neo and that works fine. It is a sort of latex you paint on then peel off later (like copydex if you know what that is). I have heard that the earlier version Mr Masking did pull paint off as do some of the other variaties of masking film. The Mr Masking Neo seems fine to me. Quote
Pat Payne Posted July 14, 2006 Posted July 14, 2006 A real good solution is (and I'm being serious) Silly Putty -- the rubbery stuff that comes in eggs. It goes on nice (although it will spread if you leave it on for an extended period of time -- it also has a risk of drying, but you have to leave it on for weeks on end for that to happen), leaves hard mask edges, has zero danger of paint underseep, and 99 out of 100 times comes off clean (if you're masking canopies or other areas where there is a pronounced gap, some will seep into the gap if you leave it on too long, but it can be cleaned out easily with a toothpick). And it will not take off accessory parts if they're glued on properly. Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted July 15, 2006 Author Posted July 15, 2006 hahaha! I actually went to the store and bought silly putty for that purpose several days ago! Haven't tried it yet, but I thought it seemed like a good idea. Oh wow do I feeel cool now. Quote
Pat Payne Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 hahaha! I actually went to the store and bought silly putty for that purpose several days ago! Haven't tried it yet, but I thought it seemed like a good idea. Oh wow do I feeel cool now. 416525[/snapback] That's what we're here for, G&C Quote
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