Is There A Easy To Remove Paint?

[ComicKaze]

Hi there, I'm wondering if there's a easy to remove paint for doing testing, etc. that won't damage the plastic underneath? Or if Gundam Marker can be removed like Sharpies ink will harmlessly dissolve with application of rubbing alcohol?

The reason I ask is that I have some vintage 20 year old toys and models that I want to touch up or upgrade with paint but I don't know if I want them permantely painted and don't want to damage them with paint removal if I make a mistake or decide to return it to it's original state.

The plastic is clean, looks like styrene is absolutely clean with no original paint or anything on it. Is this possible to do? The same applies to another toy that has yellowed with age and I might feel the need to cover it up for display but later return it to vintage state.

Edited May 5, 2006 by ComicKaze

[nightmareB4macross]

There\'s a product called SCALECOAT II. It works really well to remove paint without any damamge to plastic. It is mainly used by train and diorama hobbyists. I use it whenever I need to remove paint and have never had any trouble with this. It also lasts a very long time, you can actually use it over and over. I have a bottle that I have been using for the past two years, and it still keeps on working.

[Penguin]

There is a remover specifically for Gundam markers. Check the Hobbylink Japan site. That's where I saw it. I've never used it, though. Gunze lacquer thinner also removes Gundam marker paint. I've used that plenty to clean up my marker errors, and it's never damaged the plastic yet. That's on good ol' polystyrene and resin kits, though. Other materials might not fare so well.

Edited May 5, 2006 by Penguin

[big F]

I have gundam remover pens. They work well and can also be used to smudge the pens to make a dirt or wear marks.

Isopropyl alcohol works well too. Its cheap and can also take off Tamiya acrylics too.

[Macross73]

Sorry this is slighty off topic and no offense if i

seem to hijack this thread but what works well on

removing paint from diecast toys?

I bid and won a customed chogokin figure and i want to redo it.

paint job is poor it looks like nail polish ,propbably acrylic but i'm not sure

what it is.

[nightmareB4macross]

Most standard paint removers will do, only if your talking about the DIE-CAST parts. As for the plastic parts I would highly recommend Scalecoat II.

Plus the bottle of SCII is only $10.00 bucks a bottle of 10oz.

[buglips]

It's not the best method, but Tamiya acrylic can be removed with bleach.

You need to soak the painted parts for about 30 minutes then rinse under warm water. It should simply all wash off.

However, there are some problems:

1. It's harsh and smells real bad.

2. If the underlying plastic was white, it may remain stained (such as if you used a red paint). In which case, after rinsing, nothing will get the staining out.

3. While the bleach probably won't hurt the plastic or metal there's no guarantees. It may also react with various glues or undercoats in unpredictable ways.

In short, it CAN be done... but I would strongly recommend trying something else first. This is just for additional information based on things I have personally tried.

[shiyao]

haha, another tangential question from me:

We all know that removing gundam marker ink from the PLASTIC of the model kit is easily done with tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper. But how about removing gundam marker ink from an ALREADY airbrushed model? Will tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper suffice? Or is thinner necessary? (in which case, how do you remove the gundam marker ink WITHOUT taking off teh paint?!??!)

any help will be welcome this is driving me crazy.

[ComicKaze]

haha, another tangential question from me:

We all know that removing gundam marker ink from the PLASTIC of the model kit is easily done with tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper. But how about removing gundam marker ink from an ALREADY airbrushed model? Will tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper suffice? Or is thinner necessary? (in which case, how do you remove the gundam marker ink WITHOUT taking off teh paint?!??!)

any help will be welcome this is driving me crazy.

397258[/snapback]

I don't think that would be possible unless you gloss or dull coated the model first with a protective layer. You could try rubbing alcohol first.

[shiyao]

okay, here's what's been happening.

i have been completing my models out-of-box, and then topcoating them with a matte finish. no paint, no airbrush - just topcoat.

i then proceed to outline panel lines with gundam marker - and i've discovered that i am unable to use eraser/sandpaper/tissue to wipe away any errors!

so i was wondering if i could just airbrush first, THEN panel line with gundam marker (and therefore rub away with eraser?), and THEN topcoat.

sorry for the confusion.

[thegunny]

Brake fluid for plastics (non silicone type).

Acetone (nail polish remover will do) or oven cleaner for metals.

[Penguin]

okay, here's what's been happening.

i have been completing my models out-of-box, and then topcoating them with a matte finish. no paint, no airbrush - just topcoat.

i then proceed to outline panel lines with gundam marker - and i've discovered that i am unable to use eraser/sandpaper/tissue to wipe away any errors!

so i was wondering if i could just airbrush first, THEN panel line with gundam marker (and therefore rub away with eraser?), and THEN topcoat.

sorry for the confusion.

397458[/snapback]

Your big problem there is the matte coat. A matte finish feels "rough" to the touch because it's basically bumpy at a microscopic level. The marker paint sinks into the little valleys and grooves in the finish. When you try to wipe it away, the tissue fibre is too big to get into these tiny imperfections and can't get at the paint.

If you search for any thread about panel lining on these boards, you'll see a common theme: gloss coat first. The gloss coat is smooth and shiny, allowing paint to flow easily into engraved panel lines, and also allowing you to wipe away errors easily. Then, you apply your finishing coat over that (matte, semi-gloss, whatever you prefer).

I do most of my panel lining using the soft-tip Gundam grey and black markers and 0.02 Copic markers on top of a gloss coat, wiping away the excess to leave only a thin amount of the marker paint inside the actual engraved line. Works like a charm, since the soft tips can get into lines even the small tip markers can't.

[shiyao]

wah, that was very enlightened

so looks like i shall have to purchase gloss coat as well.

there seems to be no end to what i should buy for this &(#$^&@#^#$ hobby.

thanks anyway!

[Penguin]

there seems to be no end to what i should buy for this &(#$^&@#^#$ hobby.

397757[/snapback]

The more you build, the better you get, the more you want to try, the more tools you need... it does not end...