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Posted

I am in love. THAT is the kind of design I can get behind. People can say what they will about retro styling, but if done right it works. And to me, this works.

It could be that I think the golden age of automotive styling was the 1930s though, which this obviously draws heavily on.

Posted

Hmm, interesting. Kinda puts me in the mindset of a Morgan Aero 8: if it were more thoroughly modernized or something. What's it based on? The Z4?

I kinda like the AC Mamba myself. But this one's nice, too.

Posted

question: what tire company makes a tire with some really good stiff sidewalls that will fit a 15-inch wheel and be about 27-28 inches tall and about 8-10 inches wide?

I would use stock car slicks, but with as unpredictable as the rain tends to be here, I don't want to wreck my car on my way to an event, since I'd be using slicks there anyways.

Posted (edited)

Bigger wheels FTW :p

(but seriously, what kind of vehicle, and what kind of racing?)

Edit:

Sounds to me like a truck tire, about a 235-75-15. You could probably find a drag slick that big... which wouldn't have stiff sidewalls at all, and neither would any other truck tires, I'm sure. If this is for a car, you need some seriously smaller tires...)

Unless you mean the rims are 8-10 inches wide...in which case you'd be looking at upwards of a 275.

Edited by Raptor
Posted

Yes, I'll go with Raptor's questions on this one. The intended use and vehicle would help. That dia seems a bit tall. Try looking at the charts here: http://www.sascosports.com/products/specs.php?type_id=17. Lots of different tire specs, and some general info links at the bottom of the page. The closest thing I saw to your requested dia would be a Goodyear CAN AM slick [yikes!]. Or try Bob Woodman's page. Check under Goodyear, under the Sports GT link. The Eagle G-19 is about the only one I saw that might be the size you're looking for.

Posted (edited)

the car: my chrysler. The use: Drifting. (after y'all get done laughing, let me know)

probably 15x8's or 15x10's for the wheels, which are gonna be Cragar #397's. I'm already planning on getting rid of the inner fender's and mini-tubbing the rear's.

(I'm almost fixing to go to the local short track and buy their used tires after each saturday night for drift usage)

EDIT: these are the wheels i'm wanting for it

crr-397_w.jpg

Edited by Lightning 06
Posted

Well, what are the stock tire sizes?

If you want stiff sidewalls, DON'T GET 15"s! Get 17"s instead! They have about the best selection of high-performance rubber, anyway. Lower profile tires will give you much more road-feel and stiffer sidewalls.

You're probably going to have to have some suspension work done if you put 255 or wider tires on the car...since the level up grip is gonna go way up.

Posted

I'm totally rebuilding the car; so, yeah, it's gonna get the suspension fully redone. new sway bars, Mopar Perf's "Dirt Track" rear leaf springs, etc....

Posted (edited)

Why the monster sidewalls? If you're running 15"s, I'd recommend the Falken Azenis Sports in something like 245/60/15 (not sure if they still make that size or now), or, if you want to go really hardcore, Toyo RA-1s. (For grip driving.)

Excellent cheaper choice is Hankook RS-II. If you want to keep it American, the Goodrich T/As are very well-regarded, too. Look around at reviews and stats on Tire Rack.

Edited by Commander McBride
Posted

if your drifting, dont use anything more then a 60 series tire, your going to be "rolling the bead" otherwise

Posted

Those 15" steel wheels are likely cheaper $$, which I'm guessing is part of what makes them an attractive option? But going even to a 16" will open up more options as far as available rubber to go on 'em. Also, bear one thing in mind if you plan on running that meaty 10" wide wheel: the size of the contact patch will be pretty big. Sure, it's gonna look tough, with those ultra wide rear meats, but that wider contact patch will require more power/rpm's to break traction, and thus mean you'll be flogging your engine more; there'll be a lot more sustained time way up in the rpm band. The sidewalls on a way-tall tire like you have in mind will also be more prone to flex longitudinally [sp?] as well as laterally--the rear tires of top fuel dragsters provide a good, exaggerated example of what I mean. That too, could possibly make it harder to break traction?

Posted
Those 15" steel wheels are likely cheaper $$, which I'm guessing is part of what makes them an attractive option?  But going even to a 16" will open up more options as far as available rubber to go on 'em.  Also, bear one thing in mind if you plan on running that meaty 10" wide wheel: the size of the contact patch will be pretty big.  Sure, it's gonna look tough, with those ultra wide rear meats, but that wider contact patch will require more power/rpm's to break traction, and thus mean you'll be flogging your engine more; there'll be a lot more sustained time way up in the rpm band.  The sidewalls on a way-tall tire like you have in mind will also be more prone to flex longitudinally [sp?] as well as laterally--the rear tires of top fuel dragsters provide a good, exaggerated example of what I mean.  That too, could possibly make it harder to break traction?

412146[/snapback]

well, the initial motor build is gonna be pushing 500hp, so breaking traction won't be the problem. If I had to "plus-size" the wheels, it would probably be to 17's, then I'll use the 17-inch version of the Torq Thrust II's, but I would like to go with the 15's for the stock-car look. (which the project is gonna be "based" on)

Posted

For drifting definitely go with 17's; Power to break the wheels is great, but it would work GREATLY in your favor if you had skinnier taller tires to throw around a solid rear. If you look around you can get a nice pair of 17's with rubber for $5-600 dollars shipped (at least that's the price i was able to find most recently).

Posted

500hp? Well, why didn't you say so? In that case--stand on it and watch that smoke! :D Actually, those Cragars do come in 17's, and only about $60 a pop.

Yeah, I like the Torq Thrust II's too. Eventually, I'd like to get some 16"x8"s and 17"x11"s to slap under my ride.

Posted
For drifting definitely go with 17's;  Power to break the wheels is great, but it would work GREATLY in your favor if you had skinnier taller tires to throw around a solid rear.

412235[/snapback]

The car has a solid rear?

Uh, have fun fighting to control that.

Posted

I'd still like to use 15's if possible.....I know for the DoH movie, they were using BFG Radial T/A's on the stunt cars...

Posted
For drifting definitely go with 17's;  Power to break the wheels is great, but it would work GREATLY in your favor if you had skinnier taller tires to throw around a solid rear.

412235[/snapback]

The car has a solid rear?

Uh, have fun fighting to control that.

412301[/snapback]

Actually I have no idea if it does or not, he did not specify what model or year of Chrysler he has. For drifting solid rears do quite well, just look at the Drift Mustangs. I did however read an article lately where for the American market, M3's make wonderful drift cars (since we don't get any of the good japanese cars... yet).

Posted
For drifting definitely go with 17's;  Power to break the wheels is great, but it would work GREATLY in your favor if you had skinnier taller tires to throw around a solid rear.

412235[/snapback]

The car has a solid rear?

Uh, have fun fighting to control that.

412301[/snapback]

independant rear is harder to "hang out" in the corners
Posted

Yes, but it's easier to bring back in at the end of the corner.

Don't forget that drift car setup is much less about the ability to get the car sideways than it is about making the car easy to control at high angle. Drift cars are setup for quite a bit more grip than you'd expect, because the higher the threshold of traction loss, the more sideways the car can be in a slide and still come out of it well.

Posted

the car is a '77 LeBaron, which is mechanically identical to a Dodge Diplomat (but with different trim/badges)

post-170-1151114688.jpg

It's gonna stay a solid rear, and I'm starting to lean towards keeping it an automatic instead of the 4-speed swap...

it's got 215/75/R15's on it now, but I know those won't work once the new drivetrain is in and the suspension's totally fixed.

Posted (edited)

I don't think an automatic will do you much good in drifting; for one you can't use the heal toe method to power the wheels loose (well, i guess you could but it'd be a LOT less predictable) and if you're going to drift with your e-brake, then be prepared to replace the lines every couple track days. 500hp sounds like a lot, but considering the weight of the vehicle, it's really not as much power/weight wise as you'd imagine. Just look at the D1 vehicles and that'll give you an idea of the power to weight required for track drifting (350Z's, Mustangs, Silvia's, all have between 350 and 450hp but also weigh in at no more than 3000lbs).

Don't take anything i say the wrong way, i would just hate for you to invest tons of money into a vehicle that is not going to suit your needs.

Edited by emajnthis
Posted (edited)
I don't think an automatic will do you much good in drifting; for one you can't use the heal toe method to power the wheels loose (well, i guess you could but it'd be a LOT less predictable) and if you're going to drift with your e-brake, then be prepared to replace the lines every couple track days.  500hp sounds like a lot, but considering the weight of the vehicle, it's really not as much power/weight wise as you'd imagine.  Just look at the D1 vehicles and that'll give you an idea of the power to weight required for track drifting (350Z's, Mustangs, Silvia's, all have between 350 and 450hp but also weigh in at no more than 3000lbs).

Don't take anything i say the wrong way, i would just hate for you to invest tons of money into a vehicle that is not going to suit your needs.

412582[/snapback]

well, there was an El Camino that was campaigned for the last 3 seasons by a team that used a supercharged 350 with an automatic, they did really well too, since they were'nt one of the teams with a big sponsor...

the mustangs are pushing well over 600hp and weigh at 3000-3400lbs...so I think my initial target power level is gonna work until I get good at it, then I'm gonna go for a crossram intake and a set of Indy heads with a lumpy cam which should just touch the 700hp mark.

I mean, I'm pretty much an oddball, but y'all should know that by now, since it'll be almost 3 or 4 years I've been a member here.

EDIT: added the quote since it's a new page for those who have the standard number of replies before it shows a new page.

EDIT2: don't worry ejmanthis, I'm not offended at all. If I wind up not really liking drifting, I'll still wind up with a nice race car out of the deal.

Edited by Lightning 06
Posted

LMAO, that's friggin cool! I bet it does wonders for getting rid of tail-gaters. :p A twin-engined scooter in the works? This guy is in-sane. But I mean that in a good way.

Couldn't he have picked a larger car, though? Lord knows, I wouldn't want that intake so close to me if I were driving it. I keep thinking of that Navy footage where the deck worker gets sucked up into the intake of an A-6 as it's prepping for takeoff. :blink:

Posted

It's cool, but the RUF Cayman Kompressor is waay better at the same price (same 3.8liter flat but the RUF is supercharged), running times equivalent to the 911 Turbo.

Posted

I love frameless doors, it's such a small thing, but it means a lot to me. Car looks great, the only thing that worries me is that it's a Dodge, so it will probably perform better but cost about 6 grand more than anything in it's class.

Posted (edited)

Meanwhile, Ford will continue to sell Mustangs like gangbusters in the interim. Not that that matters much though--they're still in pretty rough shape financially, aren't they?

Oh well, I'm sure Chrysler is coming into this knowing they won't match the Mustang in sheer volume of sales. But that will work to the advantage of Dodge enthusiasts? Future collectibility is more readily assured.

I concur with earlier posts: expect "SRT" and other versions to come at considerable markups. $36-40K sticker price wouldn't surprise me a bit. <_<

I think I like Doug Schramm's front fascia better

plumrtchallengerfront1tx.jpg

Edited by reddsun1
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