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Posted

Sorry for the LONG delay in updates. I did get a B+ in my class which is good for someone who SUCKS at mathematics!

The ship will float with the hanger deck on it. In fact, with all that stuff just on the bow, the front bow half floats by itself.

Thank you ALL for the many compliments! It helps keep me going when I'd LOVE to be building something else at that time.

UPDATE 13 APRIL 09

I'm back to my days where I was designing and installing high end car stereo systems (except this time much smaller and in a "ship."

First I built this hidden speaker: post-2518-1239649566_thumb.jpg post-2518-1239649596_thumb.jpg

Then I really hated the sound quality (it was the driver) so I ripped it out and now the ramp is hollow again!

Then I built this frame to mount three boards on: post-2518-1239649691_thumb.jpg post-2518-1239649970_thumb.jpg

The two end boards are the sound cards containing the recording. The output of them sounded HORRIBLE. When I took the output, put a load on it and ran it through an amplifier (the tiny, funky shaped board in the middle) it sounds 100% better. Each board only has 30 seconds of time so one will be like alarms and announcements while the other will be "Daedalus Attack" related stuff. Then I can plug an MP3 player into it and play like an hour or two of background stuff (or even music)!

The new speaker unit is made from a MUCH better speaker, styrene tube, and a segment of styrene towel rack holder! It sounds great. Nothing sits above deck in the newer installation:post-2518-1239650100_thumb.jpg That little square in the top right hand corner is the speaker under fine stainless steal mesh. It will be covered a little better later on.

The smaller flashing light by the door failed so I replaced it and added detail:post-2518-1239650230_thumb.jpg

After COMPLETING the controller and looking over the sound cards, I realized I would have to manually actuate the sounds. So how to add buttons to the controller and not make it look overcrowded? This was my solution:post-2518-1239650349_thumb.jpg

The smaller button in the middle controls amp power and the two big buttons control sound effects. The buttons are black with same colored yellow plastic

cut THICKNESS wise from the battery hatch cover. It's a little thinner now, but my buttons match the case!

That's it for now. I still have to wire all of this up. I tried to put this all on the same power supply, but I was getting nasty results despite using filter devices on the power inputs. So one runs off the ship, and one runs off of batteries. That's it for today. - MT

Posted

Well worth the wait MT, looks fantastic!! Also thank you for the modeling tips you sent me, Hopefully in a month or so i'll have something to show off!! B))

Posted

Thanks guys! I'm hoping to wire it all up this week. The yellow controller is for all the the stuff on the top section basically. The Radio control is for the lower hull (piloting and throttles). Basically the "playing around stuff" doesn't need the radio turned on or all the massive 6 volt batteries charged up. This is a bonus at some shows where R/C units must be impounded for safety reasons. - MT

Posted
I'm back to my days where I was designing and installing high end car stereo systems (except this time much smaller and in a "ship."

Better watch out or Tim Westwood may come round to pimp your ride/Daedalus

Posted
Thanks guys! I'm hoping to wire it all up this week. The yellow controller is for all the the stuff on the top section basically. The Radio control is for the lower hull (piloting and throttles). Basically the "playing around stuff" doesn't need the radio turned on or all the massive 6 volt batteries charged up. This is a bonus at some shows where R/C units must be impounded for safety reasons. - MT

I was wondering about how much power all of the controllers would consumer. I'm guessing the R/C shows have an area where you place your boats on display. Like a carshow where you show off all of your cool bling. :D

Posted

Thanks guys. I think my mini van would be a good candidate for a "Pimp My Ride!"

UPDATE 18 April 09

I got all the of the sound gear mounted, hooked up and tested. My son got a kick out of testing it!post-2518-1240084283_thumb.jpg

I'm tired of soldering so today I started work on the sail (bridge). This was cut with a laser for accuracy earlier on if you remember.

post-2518-1240084363_thumb.jpg post-2518-1240084424_thumb.jpg post-2518-1240084466_thumb.jpg

A REAL expensive SD Daeadalus :blink:post-2518-1240084512_thumb.jpg It fits perfect (pheeew!)

That's it for now. I'm contemplating working on some Mospeada bad guys (see What's lying on your workbench post). Take care! - MT

Posted

Wow, I can't even think of what to say. I found this thread today and I'm just blown away buy the size of the project and the ammount of time put into it.

Just a quick question: I'm not good with scale conversions, so how big is a 1/200 Destroid kit anway? I found some old Destroid toys around the house (prob. from Exo-Squad toys) and wasn't sure if they fit that scale.

Once again, great job.

Posted

Thanks 505! I'm getting bored building it :lol:

Pineapple salad - Welcome to MW and thank you! A 1/200 VF-1 standing up is 2.4 inches tall. A figure is about 8mm tall.

UPDATE 27 APRIL 09

Most of my work has been on the sail and the funky towers going on top of it. The most complicated (and detailed one) I'm hitting first, the tactical bridge. I'm forming the towers by vacu-form to make them light! These sit at the very top and have to be light to keep the center of gravity down.

post-2518-1240859164_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1240859263_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1240859280_thumb.jpg

The sail bottom is left off so I can put the deck with people and crane components in it.post-2518-1240859332_thumb.jpg

Not a lot of pictures, but LOT of sanding and a lot of measuring/shaping. That's it for now. - MT

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks Claude!

UPDATE 10 MAY 09

I got some work done on the tactical bridge. You can also say I went into the furniture and decorating business too ^_^ .

The tactical bridge basics post-2518-1241938296_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1241938335_thumb.jpg

post-2518-1241938459_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1241938514_thumb.jpg Completed chairs with "bridge bunny" to scale.

Here's the furnished bridge BEFORE making further changes post-2518-1241938603_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1241938629_thumb.jpg

Next comes what I think is a sensor array post-2518-1241938742_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1241938696_thumb.jpg

And the final assemblies to include a test fit post-2518-1241938805_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1241938836_thumb.jpg[

attachment=66759:Test_Fit_Bridge_1.JPG]

The parts will fit perfect when glued, these are just test fit to show assembly. Next I'm on to the mast and making some radars that turn (even though there's none in the lineart). Even the Aegis destroyers have rotating surface scan radars! - MT

post-2518-1241938853_thumb.jpg

Posted

you have the skill of an artist and the patience of a saint to achieve this much, the attention to detail and quality is outstanding, thanks MT for making my jaw drop ;p

Posted (edited)
post-2518-1241938514_thumb.jpg Completed chairs with "bridge bunny" to scale.

:o are you kidding me?!?! incredible.

Edited by MilSpex
Posted

Mech Tech you are my Idol man, seriously how on Earth did you do that!!?? You are sparing no details for this project!!!

Posted
I think that MT is way ahead of you :lol:

MT, you continue to amaze. Seriously.

Holly cow they are small. :)

Posted
Holly cow they are small. :)

Its not the size that counts, but how you use it!! If just the parts amaze us all, can't imagine when its painted & Air brushed!!! B))

Posted

Watch Yamato steal MechTech's sound effects idea and incorporate them into the 1/2000 SDF-1!

Posted (edited)

Not to jump on the bandwagon, amazing.

If you need an escort, please let me know.

Mine is in 1/96 scale but still might look cool in the photos:

DSC04671.JPG

Eric

Homeport Model Ships

www.homeportmodels.com

Edited by Sputnikk
Posted

Thank you everyone for the compliments! The encouragement has helped a lot! There's other kits I'd rather be building too right now.

Progress has been slow. My workshop got an unexpected upgrade this weekend when my wife decided she wanted two more bookcases! I had to rearrange my shop to fit the other two cases in "my area." The advantage is that all my books are now in my shop. Disadvantge - lots-o-dust!

Thanks Eric! Your site has some great kits on it. Any chance you might reduce your drawings 50% and make them 1/200? That's what I want to build, an Arleigh Burke class destroyer. I've even got most of the armament too from other scratch builds. I thought about using Gator Board, but was concerned about the weight. Most of my major structure is carbon fiber square tune with .020" walls plus additional details.

Minor UPDATE 18 MAY 2009

The key part to the whole bridge assembly has been keeping it light. All the pieces you are seeing are no more than .010" or .020" thick. That's why the vacu-forming. Consistently thin walls and no putty to make curves that are thin and light.

This is all I have so farpost-2518-1242674906_thumb.jpg

The uneven areas behind the windows is where the masts will extend and project upward from. This is a weird designed bridge. That's it for now. - MT

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

All I can say is "what the....!" I was blown away when I saw the tiny little bridge bunnies. The attention to detail is incredible. You really need to submit this to a model magazine or something once it is all finished. Maybe Big West will offer to buy it from you and stick in some Macross museum at their corporate office. :)

Wouldn't it be cool that once you finish it another person continues the legacy and starts on the SDF-1. :D

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