treatment Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 (edited) I'm thinkin of finally paint-customizing some discarded chunky-monkeys re-issues and contemplating on getting some Hase-models in the near future, hence the question. Of course, it's the usual Max and Kakizaki colors stuff. --treatment-- Edited October 2, 2003 by treatment Quote
Deadzone Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 Spray paint is the only way to go from where I'm coming from. I tried brush paint. It always comes out lumpy for large areas. The best thing to do is use Tamiya paint through an iwata airbrush. That's the ideal set up. For lower budget paint jobs, buy some spray paint and practice, practice, practice. You won't have the control of the airbrush, but at least it will spray evenly for the most part, and it's cheap. Quote
kanata67 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I spray primer and sealer, but do everything else with good brushes by hand. I Highly recommend the "citadel colour" line in flip top jars, unfortunately they stopped making it over a decade ago and I have a bugger of a time tracking down jars . The new citadel paint isn't bad, but it just doesn't feel the same to me, or have some of the colors I know and love. Quote
mech9T8 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 DO NOT HAND BRUSH! You see brush lines everywhere. I used spray paint quite a bit and it works great. Tamiya is a good brand, just a little on the expensive side though. Just a suggestion, pratice on a scrap piece before you move to your good stuff. Good luck! Quote
bsu legato Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 Tamiya is great, but I'd never use it on a toy. It's probably the most fragile model paint in existence. Quote
treatment Posted October 2, 2003 Author Posted October 2, 2003 thanks for the replies so far. Tho I do have steady hands and have brush-painted stuff before, I am kinda leaning towards spray-paint this time as it seems more convenient and easier than a brush-on. I'm just not sure about which brand to get, as I've not really spray-paint a toy or a model. I see cheap sprays from testors. I still got a bunch of regular krylon, i think. Haven't seen a Tamiya spray, yet. Guess it's about time I find and visit the local model-shops (if any) around here. Quote
GreatMoose Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I like brush painting. It gives your model a more realistic look. Most military paint schemes look like absolute crap up close. They're NEVER even; hence brush painting is a little more realistic. That's just me though, I'm old school. Quote
rocco_77 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I didn't realize that Tamiya paint was "fragile." Does it chip or peal easy? Wouldn't a primer help that at all? So if Tamiya is the most fragile paint, then what is the most durable? And can it be sprayed through an airbrush? Sorry for all the questions, but I am going to get back into modeling as soon as my house is remodeled, and it's great to have all the research done before I start... Plus you guys are some of the best modelers I've seen and I trust your judgements. Thanks. Quote
bsu legato Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I like brush painting. It gives your model a more realistic look. Most military paint schemes look like absolute crap up close. They're NEVER even; hence brush painting is a little more realistic. That's just me though, I'm old school. Well that depends on what scale you're working at. A 1/35 scale AFV leaves a lot of room to fudge the paint job, but at 1/72 scale even the slightest brush mark would be inches wide & deep at 1:1 scale. Quote
Pat Payne Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 DO NOT HAND BRUSH!You see brush lines everywhere. I used spray paint quite a bit and it works great. Tamiya is a good brand, just a little on the expensive side though. Just a suggestion, pratice on a scrap piece before you move to your good stuff. Good luck! I BEG TO DIFFER!!! I hand-paint a lot of my models (sometimes I'll use spray cans -- an airbrush is just too much of an investment for me at this moment) and unless I'm using certain paints (PollyS yellows for instance which are total crap), I have absolutely no problems. I've got 2 P-51D Mustangs, one done by spraying on Testor's Metalizer (Highly recommended, by the way) and one done by bottle-brushing on Tamiya aluminum. No real difference. In the end, it comes down to what you're most comfortable with, but that's my 20 yen. I do agree with Mech9TB though -- Tamiya is THE best of the acrylic paints. You can hardly go wrong with Tamiya bottle paints. I have had some problems with their spray cans, but that may be a problem of technique. Quote
kanata67 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I like brush painting. It gives your model a more realistic look. Most military paint schemes look like absolute crap up close. They're NEVER even; hence brush painting is a little more realistic. That's just me though, I'm old school. amen brotha If you use a cheap brush you get what you deserve... Sable at a minimum. I like the old citadel with a nice chem since outlawed because you can adjust the consistence so it actually "flows" and leaves no lines with a nice brush. After a wash and sealer it often gives more detail than spraying can achieve. Though I have seen some airbrushing masters do amazing things, which I can't... so I don't try... Oh yeah... it's not just that the paint on a real aircraft is sprayed for function rather than beauty, but on military craft the scheme is rarely uniform up close. Many a f/a 18 I fell off while washing had suffered various discoloration from normal operation as well as mass paint removal by overzealous linemen using improper scrub pads . Lets just say when you scrub the numbers off a bird, it leads to some confusion . But hey... I was only in the navy, what do I know Quote
David Hingtgen Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 Even the worst-painted military equipment "scales out" to much finer than the finest brush-strokes. (Man, I've seen F-14's I swear were painted with rollers from Sears) Anyways--spray! I spray everything if at all possible. Little bitty parts. Wheels, tires, canopy, missiles. My basic rule is this: if it's less than one "brush stroke" wide, than it can be hand painted. Since the brush is wider than the part, you'll only need one stroke to cover the entire piece, and thus there will be no brush strokes. (Unless you've got thick paint). Quote
bsu legato Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 I didn't realize that Tamiya paint was "fragile." Does it chip or peal easy? Wouldn't a primer help that at all? I used to use Tamiya to "improve" a bunch of my old GI Joe toys, and it always rubbed off with handling. On models, I find that it too rubs off and scratches easily. But aside from building it, how much do you handle a model? Just cover it with a clear coat and you're set. Depending on what plastic you're working with, you may want to prime it before painting with Tamiya. I find that it never wants to stick to the plastic Dragon uses. Quote
kanata67 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 the clear coat ou use makes all the difference bsu legato... spray silicon bio-degrades in something like 500,000 years. Don't spray indoors but I put water based acrylic painted mini's in a snow globe, clear coated, assembled it, and filled it with water and I had no problems with paint loss for the years I knew the girl who it was given to. Than again I use the same clear coat on my car Quote
bsu legato Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 the clear coat ou use makes all the difference bsu legato... Oh definitely. I always spray on some kind of clear onto my models. I just wanted to point out that my experience with Tamiya on toys only extended to my pre-teen days. But even with a clear coat, I still don't know if I'd trust Tamiya on a Yamato. Quote
kanata67 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 the clear coat ou use makes all the difference bsu legato... Oh definitely. I always spray on some kind of clear onto my models. I just wanted to point out that my experience with Tamiya on toys only extended to my pre-teen days. But even with a clear coat, I still don't know if I'd trust Tamiya on a Yamato. I always go for over kill. I try to make my customs able to withstand my stupid friends as well as a factory toy would... if not better. Maybe I should'a been an engineer, but making a toy strong enough to get dropped is important to me. One of my first recast projects will be a bullet-proof ve-1... Though I need to invest in some industrial wax as I'm gonna have to burn the molds off the "deck sealent" I plan on using . Quote
vf-24 Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 tamiya spray paints and brush on paints have been good. hardly any brush streaks. as for spraying, you probably already know this but spray lightly and build up. also warming up the spray can has helped give a better spray from what i've read on other car modeling sites. apparently what some hobbists do and suggest is that they take the tamiya can and let it sit in some warm water for a couple of minutes and then they spray. mind you, don't put it in hot boiling water. that would be bad! there's some science for doing this. if i can find the info on this i'll post it here. Testors in my opinion takes too long to dry and can get messy. at least with the tamiya acrylic paints, they're easy to manage and clean up. plus it doesn't smell as much as testors. but that's just my preference. Quote
mech9T8 Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 I never got results I liked with a brush, that's why I said not to go with the brush technique. But try it out and see if you like it. As for Tamiya sprays, I used the laquer which I was told is VERY durable. Turned out great! Quote
Angel's Fury Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 DO NOT HAND BRUSH!You see brush lines everywhere. I used spray paint quite a bit and it works great. Tamiya is a good brand, just a little on the expensive side though. Just a suggestion, pratice on a scrap piece before you move to your good stuff. Good luck! Ditto! Even though Tamiya paints are sometimes on the expensive side, it's worth it if you want the best results. Quote
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