Yf-19 Step-by-step

[DrunkenMaster2]

Thanks for the feedback wm cheng!! Good tip on how to airbrush with layers, yeah I paint with thin coats, when I first started using an airbrush I use to paint thick thinking it will be faster, but nope.

Now time to paint the little details on the plane. Here I tape the plane to protact from overspray.

Here I paint with Metallic Grey.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! Overspray I hate when that happens . Now I'll have to sand the overspray down and repaint the sanded area.

[VF-19]

It's still good to have the ordinary scribing tool, too.  The curved saws are great for replacing panel lines on the rounder parts.

Really though, since I've gotten my micro saws, I don't know if I've ever built a kit without using them.

377377[/snapback]

I've found that the large straight micro-saw is great for removing small parts from the parts trees. They don't go flying, they don't get damaged, and they land in the palm of my hand.

Great progress on the YF-19. Like David, I've got to get my own someday...

[David Hingtgen]

I have seen overspray travel across an entire room (I have several things with itty-bitty blue specks over them now)---that is why I mask off ALL of a plane when spraying. Use plastic bags---grocery sacks, even garbage bags if it's a BIG model.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well I'm back thanks for all the feedback. David Hingtgen I may have to cover everything from now on, when I airbrush lots of overspray. I ran into a problem with my plane, when I airbrush I put one to many layers on and lost some of the detail on the plane. So I had to use Tamiya Paint Thinner, which is great it doesn't harm the plastic only the paint. So basically I had to start over on the plane .

Here I begin to put some detail using one of my airbrushes. It's a iwata brand, I like this one because it's for small detailing, it's the size of a pencil mark.

[DrunkenMaster2]

With the iwata airbrush I started to paint some black burnt detail on the engine and gunpod.

Edited March 19, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

wm cheng here is my problem I think I bent this part one to many times . Does anybody know how to fix this I'm looking to melt this part together and sand it down. I tried super glue then fill the seam with putty and sand it down, but it keeps opening back up. I want to melt this back together, does anybody know a glue or any product that can do this?

Edited March 21, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[big F]

You might be better trying some apoxy resin it has a bit more give than superglue or filler and can be sanded and painted. I used some not to long ago to bo something similar with some instrument pods for the car. I used Devcon we use it at work to glue security systems onto projectors and plasma screens. My friend glued his car side trims on with it. This stuffs very strong.

[wm cheng]

wm cheng here is my problem I think I bent this part one to many times  .  Does anybody know how to fix this I'm looking to melt this part together and sand it down.  I tried super glue then fill the seam with putty and sand it down, but it keeps opening back up.  I want to melt this back together, does anybody know a glue or any product that can do this?

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Thats a nasty crack - damn, its in a flexible part of the wing root too. The first thing to do if you are going the solvent type cement route is to clean the super glue residue out of the crack (maybe hard) but the solvent can only work when there is a good styrene to styrene bond. I recommend using the tube cement and try to get it into the actual crack surface so that it oozes out both sides (top and bottom) and tape/clamp or affix it so that there is constant pressure pushing the crack together to form a tight seal. Don't touch it for a day or so to make sure that it fully cures. Then you sand away the excess styrene/glue that has oozed up from the crack (only after its fully cured).

You can also use epoxy (resin type) glues such as 5min epoxy, but you need to rough up the styrene surface so that there is some "tooth" for the resin to grab hold of. Usually these types of 5min epoxies offer the greatest strength - however in your case, since the actual mating surfaces are quite small and it would be tough to get a good amount of epoxy glue into such a small crack since they are quite thick in consistency and will cure in 5 minutes! I wouldn't recommend epoxy for your type of repair.

Good luck and keep us posted to how your repair job goes - its through these accidents that we learn the most about the hobby. Wouldn't a model building process just be boring if everything went well!

[jardann]

Is there any way you can get a small piece of plastic in under the crack?

I think that if you can cut a thin piece of scrap styrene and glue it under the cracked area it would help bond the parts together.

Something that would look like this:

Top of plane __________ ___________

underneath fuselage ----------------

That would spread the stress along a larger surface area and give a much larger glueing surface. Of course that might interfere with the wing part that goes in there next so you would need to be careful. Good luck!

Edited March 21, 2006 by jardann

[David Hingtgen]

I was also thinking of something like jardann's idea.

Also, if you're going for a solvent/cement bond, you might want to let it dry a LONG time. I once needed something to dry for a month before it truly set. (I checked at the 1 week and 2 week marks, and it was still a bit soft and flexible--but after 1 month it was done and was fine forever after) Model glue may "cure" in a few hours or a day, but like concrete, it won't be UTTERLY cured for a long time. If you REALLY let it set, you should be able to get a bond that is resistent to separating.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Everybody thanks for the help . One thing I hate about modeling is set backs, just when you think your doing good something always happens, either with paint or a broken part.

Now is this the cement that everybody talks about? I test it on a scrape piece I had laying around. So far it's holding and it melt the plastic pretty good. I apply it in the middle where the crack is, and apply it on the top and bottom.

Now the waiting begins I'll sand the glue off first then putty the model to level it off. That way it won't look like it has a dip in the back, again thanks for the help everybody.

[wm cheng]

It works better when you push the crack together and hold while the tube stuff sets - I find even if you sit there and hold it in your hands (pushing it together) for 60sec or so, it really helps with the strength of the bond (versus just letting sit on its own)

That old testors orange stuff is what I've been using since I was 7! I should try some of the newer glues out there - old habits are hard to break. I do use crazy glue, and liquid cement from time to time.

[DrunkenMaster2]

It works better when you push the crack together and hold while the tube stuff sets - I find even if you sit there and hold it in your hands (pushing it together) for 60sec or so, it really helps with the strength of the bond (versus just letting sit on its own)

That old testors orange stuff is what I've been using since I was 7!    I should try some of the newer glues out there - old habits are hard to break.  I do use crazy glue, and liquid cement from time to time.

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Yeah I use that orange stuff along time ago too, now I use super glue on everything. I want to try that liquid cement from Tamiya and the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. When I glue that orange stuff I held it for 60 seconds, that was last night. It's holding pretty good, may apply some more in the crack that I missed.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well I have good news and bad news. The bad news first the orange glue didn't hold I let it dry overnight. When I started to sand off the glue to smooth it out, the whole piece fell off . Now the good news, after I read about Tamiya Cement and the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement how they both can melt plastic I went to my local hobbyshop and bought both. This is one great product!!! It's holding and not letting go . First I apply Tamiya Cement to both pieces and push both side together for about 60 sec and put a piece of sand paper to hold it up so it can dry level. Then I let it dry overnight to fully cure. It worked !!

Here is what I used, great stuff!!! The Tamiya Cement in the orange bottle is for big stuff like glueing the fuselage or gunpod anything that's big, you apply it on both side of the pieces that you are glueing, if it oozes out in the seams, thats a good thing. The kit is melting and you will have a good bond when it drys. It will fill in gaps and helps avoid having to putty later.

The Tamiya Extra Thin, the green bottle is for little cracks, I just run it down the pre-built seam.

Here I layer a bunch of putty so it can be level when I start to sand.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is what the crack looks like now. I decieded to paint a thin coat to see where I'm at. Still need to sand and add a little more putty, but it looks good so far, no crack and looks like a soild piece.

[DrunkenMaster2]

YES !!! Crack what crack !? Finally finish the crack and it looks great, all I have to do is rescribe some lines, and little touch up here and there and I can go on to finish the model.

[specr0101]

Nice job! I love the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. I use it for every bond. It fills small gaps nicely. On my YF-19 build, I used very little putty for the seams. I just ran some thin cement and squeezed the joints till they oozed. I then sanded down the joints leaving a clean line angle.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well I'm back . Thanks for all the kudos. Will here I putty and tape all the parts that I want to airbrush. Here I used yellow Tamiya tape and scrape paper, to make sure I don't get overspray on the model.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Next using flat white XF-2 I airbrush all the parts, using my Iwata Eclipse HP - BCS airbrush.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is what the flat white looks like after I peeled off the tape and paper. I looks cool!! Next I'll use Model Master Lacquer Overcoat Semi-Gloss to protect the paint.

Edited April 16, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[ChaosWarrior]

Nice work!

It's nice to read this step by steps. I picked up a lot of good tips and they also made me realise how many tools I'm missing I'll have to save up for some scribing tools and perhaps an airbrush.

ChaosWarrior

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I started to fill in the panel with oil paint, but first I sprayed a lacquer overcoat to protect the paint from the oil paint. I like to use Winton Oil Color, the colors I going to use to paint the panel is gray. I mixed black and white till I get gray and thinned it out with Mineral Spirts Odorless paint thinner. I'll let it dry for two hours then wipe with a tissue paper if I miss any lines I'll repaint it, till I get it right.

[nightmareB4macross]

Here I started to fill in the panel with oil paint, but first I sprayed a lacquer overcoat to protect the paint from the oil paint.  I like to use Winton Oil Color, the colors I going to use to paint the panel is gray.  I mixed black and white till I get gray and thinned it out with Mineral Spirts Odorless paint thinner.  I\'ll let it dry for two hours then wipe with a tissue paper if I miss any lines I\'ll repaint it, till I get it right.

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This looks like it\'s going to be a very nice build. Great Job DM2!

[specr0101]

Does this Winston brand oil dry completely in 2 hrs? It looks like it's laid on there pretty thick.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Does this Winston brand oil dry completely in 2 hrs?  It looks like it's laid on there pretty thick.

392001[/snapback]

No it doesn't completely dry in 2 hours I usally let it set for 2 hours then I wipe, only draw back with the oil paints is the slow drying time. I think I did lay it on to thick I should have thin it out more, but it looks good so far I'll post pic soon.

[Excillon]

Personally I'm all for Gundam markers for panel lines. But then I'm not much of a model builder really.

[wm cheng]

Yep, it looks really thick - the idea is to thin it down so much that the capillary action of the liquid draws itself into the recess lines. There should only be little dabs where your brush touched the line to clean up afterwards (the rest of the line shouldn't need clean up). Just becareful you're not wiping too much - it may eat into the protection layer beneath. I specifically use oils for their slow drying time, it gives me more time to weather and wipe away the excess. You don't want to let it dry completely before you wipe away the excess (especially seeing how heavy you laid it on). Use as little of the mineral spirits as required.

Below is a shot of my oil wash process (and this one is really messy compared to what I usually do) - however the YF-19's lines are rather shallow.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well I'm back, again thanks for the tips wm cheng they are always helpful!!! Here is what my YF-19 looks like with the panel lines fill in.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I used black oil wash I try to make all the parts look used, since it's a test plane I figure the landing gear gets a work out. Next I'm going to look to see if any touch ups are needed and do some repair, then I'll do a light gray shade on some of the panel lines.

Edited April 18, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[specr0101]

I guess I should give oil washes a try again. I didn't have much success. Everytime I wipe, it comes out. I've stuck with watered down acrylics...way to time consuming.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well I airbrush some shade in the panel lines with light gray. It looks pretty good , I happy how it came out. Once I apply the decals I think it will look really good.

[ChaosWarrior]

Looking good! I'm looking forward to seeing it with decals on.

ChaosWarrior

[DrunkenMaster2]

Thanks ChaosWarrior, the decals did the trick!!! Well I almost finish the decals. I use MicroSet and MicroSol both are AWESOME a must buy if you are applying decals. The MicroSet, just use a brush and brush it over the whole decal. This will soften and melt the decal a bit so that it "sucks" onto the surface of the kit. After you apply the solution to the decal what ever you do -- "DON'T TOUCH THE DECAL!!!!!" You'll see the decal wrinkle a little, but when completely dry it will be flat on the kit. After it dry's you might get airbubbles poke a small hole and reapply MicroSol. Let it dry overnight.

I apply MicroSet on the panel lines but be careful this solution is stronger then the MicroSol.

Edited May 12, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is my YF-19 with the decals apply, man talk about alot of decals. It looks greats with them on. More pics soon need to finish apply the decals. After that I'll fill in the panel with oil wash to finish it off.

Edited May 12, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[specr0101]

Nice job with the decals!