Max 1a Tv Joke Machine Custom

[DatterBoy]

Always wanted a Max 1A and have had Rohby's recast for some time. I think that painting a JM custom is very much like painting a 1/48, same rules apply on a smaller scale.

Anyhow. I learned a lot of things this first round that I wish I would have done in advance. Probably some really obvious things that I skipped around the first time.

Right now I imagine it looks a lot like what it would be if a TV Max 1A was ever released by Bandai. No decals, fresh out of the box.

Here's what I have so far:

Things I didn't do that I should have:

- sand down areas of friction

- scrub harder to remove the release agent

- used tamiya model masking tape

- waited longer for the paint to dry (it said for 7 days, I waited 1... so impatient)

Still want to:

- decal

- paint visor

- paint wheels metallic

- touch up chipped parts

- tighten leg joints (floppiness)

- loosen arm joints (super tight)

- paint up fast packs

- paint the fat pilot and fit him in

- sand/polish the canopy

- add a layer of flat clear coat (future?) to the whole damn thing

Man, for a small scale JM, this sure does take a lot of work. More as it comes.

Edited January 1, 2006 by DatterBoy

[valkyrie312]

Nice - I made one like that only my blue paint is a little too dark. Yours is perfect. One day I need to repaint and re-detail mine. Keep us up to date on the progress of this project!

[MechTech]

That's not bad at all for a start. Decals, a wash and touch ups will make it all worth while. Yeah, the dreaded "paint drying monster" got me before too (maybe that was the monster attacking everyone during "Lost", season 1 - I haven't seen season 2 yet)! I use spray can enamel paint because I'm so bad about that. Otherwise, I use acrylics. Enamels wear the best though! Sometimes you can lightly buff fingerprints out of the gloss paint if the coats are thick enough.

[DatterBoy]

I used to use enamel, but ever since plastic bonding fusion, I prefer nothing else. Once it dries, hard as a rock. Only real problem is the limited palette to choose from.

I'm using Patriotic Blue and Satin White. Thinking I'm going ot have to get some inkjet waterslide decal paper to finish this baby off. Hope it's not too pricey.

In the process of painting up the fastpacks now.

[EXO]

It's great... can't wait to see it decalled up!

[BoBe-Patt]

sweet!! Good job dood! I might commission you to make one for me!

[Gabe Q]

looks really good

[MechTech]

If you're looking for decal paper, here's a sample pack of clear and white with fixative for $9.75. Here's a link:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=82859

[Fortress_Maximus]

Looking good! Can't wait to see more.

[mojacko]

nice paint job.....cant wait to see more....

[DatterBoy]

Update:

[DatterBoy]

Picked up some Laser Printer Decal Sheets from the shop. Those things are not cheap. Costed about 6 bucks a sheet. Since I can't print white, I had to buy a white and hope that I can match the paint color for the blue. Here's a run down of my costs for this project so far...

- Rohby recast $50

- Fusion Patriotic Blue $4

- Fusion Satin White $4

- Tamiya paints (Red, Yellow, Black, Silver, Green) $6

- Brushes $2

- Decal Sheets $12

- Xacto Set $20

- Tamiya Masking Tape $6

This is pretty much assuming you start with nothing, which is what I did. Of course, a lot of these materials will lend to future projects, but this sucker is coming in well over an original JM, but I have to say... I think it does and will look much better than the originals do.

Things I still need to get:

- Flat lacquer

- Decal Film spray

I plan on doing the decals on Illustrator tonight, hopefully, printing tomorrow and applying as well. We'll have to see.

[DatterBoy]

Update: Beginning to think this thing looks pretty cool even without the decals. Could standalone with only a kite decal and fastpack kite decals. The silver accents on the fastpacks really bring this thing to life.

I think I'm getting addicted to customizing...