1/72 Resin Launch Arm kit w/ Max VF-1A Super

[wm cheng]

Unfortunately... I cheaped out on the tape! The base was so large, I started using the regular masking tape - and boy was that a mistake. I forgot how fragile the Tamiya flat paints were, especially on resin. I've been sealing each coat under a clear coat of some kind on my styrene models - which works well at protecting the paint from being pulled up with the masking tape. But I didn't seal each colour in with the base - I just started painting and masking... well, the cheap ass regular masking tape pulled a lot of paint off - the Tamiya stuff worked wonders - I guess you get what you paid for You can see all the white specks as the resin showing through from beneath.

I just painted patches/panels of a different colour of grey to hide some of these spots. Also, I had a few imperfections on the surface of the mold - I was going to just fill them in and sand it smooth, but I thought I'd do some battle damage on them to add a bit of interest. I airbrushed some burnt black on the affected areas and trailed them off as though the ship was moving when it got hit - an effect I did on my X-Wing fighter I stole from ILM modelshops Its a little heavy now, but in the end after I clear-coated and decaled everything - I will spray a dark aluminum metalizer panels over some of the blasted damaged areas as though some of them were repaired with a new panel. I then sprayed some Neutral Grey to lighten the edges of the dark grey surround and darken some panels of the lighter grey surfaces - to tie the surfaces closer together in terms of tonal range. I also faked in a darker shadow line at the top and side edge of the hanger door to give it some depth. I may spray a partial white number on the hanger door.

I have sprayed a semi-gloss clear coat to seal in this paint and prep the surface for decals & oil wash. Just a bunch of misc. warnings and stenciling with some bits of orange, yellow and red colour to match the cell a bit more. Then a final flat clear coat over top of it after the decals & again some dry brushing to pick up the highlights. Somewhere in there I will add the extra optional details.

[Major Johnathan]

Very nice again, the yellow and black really jump out. Who needs refrences, painting guides and instructions when we can just watch you do all the hard work WM...

So... what's after the Launch Arm?

[Viceland]

So... what's after the Launch Arm?  

345580[/snapback]

Finnish the Booster

[IIymij]

shawwwwweeetttt as ever, you are godlike when you paint.

[Zinjo]

So... what's after the Launch Arm?  

345580[/snapback]

Finnish the Booster

345613[/snapback]

Before that, take several beauty shots of the finished kit with a neutral background...

It's a sweet looking project...

I was hoping for a few new ones of the VF-2SS so I could make some wallpapers from them (check you PM bud...).

Edited November 17, 2005 by Zinjo

[Gundamhead]

Mr. Cheng,

You have completely taken our kit and built it in the spirit it was intended. You seemed to have fun while inspiring others. It really helps make the effort worthwhile, and helps keep the hobby alive and well. Amazing craftsmanship, I hope I am able to do my own as well.

And yes, please do post some completed shots with a nice neutral background.

sincerely and thank you,

Joe Belding

[broadshore]

Oh dang that to freaking hot WM. Looking very very sweet.

[Wicked Ace]

I didn't seal each colour in with the base - I just started painting and masking... well, the cheap ass regular masking tape pulled a lot of paint off - the Tamiya stuff worked wonders - I guess you get what you paid for     You can see all the white specks as the resin showing through from beneath.

I just painted patches/panels of a different colour of grey to hide some of these spots.  Also, I had a few imperfections on the surface of the mold - I was going to just fill them in and sand it smooth, but I thought I'd do some battle damage on them to add a bit of interest.  I airbrushed some burnt black on the affected areas and trailed them off as though the ship was moving when it got hit - an effect I did on my X-Wing fighter I stole from ILM modelshops    

345530[/snapback]

It's so sad to me to think that your mistakes come out better than my best efforts on any given day. Though I don't have the time to build models at this point in my life, I'm still hooked on your build-up threads.

edit: "you're" should have been "your." Maybe I should sign up for AA.

Edited November 22, 2005 by Wicked Ace

[neptunesurvey]

If that is one of your mistakes cheng I would hit to see you really screw up.

[wm cheng]

I will definitely take some proper pictures when I'm finished - but I'm not done yet. Although it shaping up to be a big one, so it will be hard to find proper lighting and a neutral background large enough to shot this baby when I'm done.

Ah! I've long given up on "the" perfect model - I now know with my emmense expertise that it does not exist - and I should strive for it... but not kill myself when I don't achieve it. Its kinda zen now... I just have to learn of more creative ways to turn mistakes into opportunities.

Well... I was kinda worried when I couldn't log into MW for the last few days?! I got a few more things done. I started to decal the base as well. I was trying to take clues from aircraft carriers and hangers - but I didn't want to over do it and take too much attention away from the arm and Valkyrie, since that is the actual model piece. The base, to me should remain in the background to the main model. However, I wanted to add the "dots" of colour that we see in the animation cell - so I mainly chose yellow, red and orange decals.

(excuse the next few shots - I forgot to turn the tungsten while balance setting back on my digital camera - hence the orange cast on the photos)

[wm cheng]

I started working on the few extra pieces that Gundamhead had provided as optional add-on detail for the base. I first sanded off some of the extra resin on the back of the pieces by rubbing it against a rough sandpaper (its actually good to rough up the back side - save time in using a coarse paper, gives the surface some tooth for the glue to bite, plus we never see the backside) place flat against the table surface.

[wm cheng]

You might of noticed that I found some cool orange decals "01" from an old Crusher Joe kit - so this became Hanger 01. I thought the main hanger doors were a little barren, so I decided to mask a partial "01" on the large doors themselves to add a little interest. I lightly airbrushed a very light coat of flat white on the masked area.

I also took this opportunity before I glued down the optional details to dry brush some white and a little silver onto the raised details of the hanger surround. This ties it into the launch arm a little more and evens out the weathering while tones down the decal colours. Additionally, I added a few panels of Alclad "Dark Aluminum" on the surface of the base - I thought the blast marks were a little overdone, so I'd tone them down by "performing a few repairs" as though someone had come by and welded a few new silver panels to cover the blasted areas but hadn't painted them the hull colours yet (ala Star Wars rebel fleet)

The newly applied optional details were airbrushed with Alclad's Dark Aluminum for the pieces to be applied to the lighter grey backgrounds and Alclad's Steel for the ones that were applied to the dark grey hanger surround. They kind of stand out right now, but will recieve a dark oil wash to pick out their vents, and a lighter grey dry brushing to tone them down a little bit (not too much since I wanted a little bit of a metallic gleam for the base surface).

Lastly, I wanted to show a close up of the "battle damage". I quite liked the molding "mistakes" - I guess there was something in the mold when the resin was poured - but they sure don't look like bubbles. With a little creative airbrushing for some charring and streaking, and a little silver dry brushing to pick out a metal edge - I think they look like "blast" marks quite convincingly. And it was easier than filling them with putty and sanding! anything to reduce sanding!!

[wm cheng]

I just had to fit it all together for the weekend - and I'm happy to announce that its been supporting my Valkyrie up like this for the last 72 hours without a hint of sag - now I did goop on the extra 5min epoxy at the claw fingers - and I highly recommend doing that especially if you intend to display the base flat instead of hanging it against a wall. The inner fingers are what really supports the Valkyrie, but then again, the Hasegawa model isn't that heavy to begin with (also I did re-glue the three connection points on the backpack - the two hinges and that flat finlike area with 5min epoxy too - but that was all it needed, I think screwing it would be a little over kill).

[wm cheng]

Lastly for tonight... I thought the base was kinda cool just for other aircraft - it really has an aircraft carrier quality to it - especially the outboard elevators.

Hmm... maybe Gundamhead & Jessie can sell it with just the base aswell...

So I need to weather and oil wash the newly added optional details. And lastly, (which I'm looking forward too) I get to add all the wiring and hoses to connect up the arm, wrists and claw portions in the next few days.

[Zinjo]

You know what, if you place a few "panels", gugaws and details on your workbench, it could double as the side of the ARMD since it already photographs as a metallic surface.

This way the kit can stay flat on it's back for photography..

Something to consider...

[Myersjessee]

WM...wow...let me reiterate Joe's comments and say thank you! I tell you, I do these projects for the fun...and lately the Launch arm hasn't been fun. The molds are poorly laid out (my fault) and a pain to run (also my fault) Yet, all my frustration just washed away when I see how good this can look! Thanks for sharing all the time, and tips. Amazing!

[Major Johnathan]

I never would have thought the base would look so good, it reminds me of the old Imai factory kit. Very Macrossy.

[broadshore]

Awesome work WM! That Launch arm came out awesomely nice.

[Wicked Ace]

Just when I've reached the point of awe, wm adds, "I found some cool orange decals. . ." Simply amazing!

[THOR]

you're my hero!

we're not worthy!

[neptunesurvey]

you're my hero!

we're not worthy!

346970[/snapback]

What Thor said.

[wm cheng]

Thanks all!

Hey, hasn't anyone started building their yet? I couldn't wait to tear into it! How about Gundamhead or Jessie? I'd love to see any of your works if you started on the arm.

As I mentioned earlier, I started attaching the extra hoses that were supplied. I first drilled out the circular depressions that Gundamhead provided so that I had something to seat the wires into (it allows for a better glued connection)

There is a photo in the instructions which show where the supplied wires go into on the arm. It also makes sense that you'd need connections across a major "joint" in the arm which slack in the hose for potential movement. The kit supplies the hoses with a bit extra on the ends which I trimed off and I bent the hoses/wires into shapes that approximated the lineart drawings before gluing them into the holes I drilled in the resin arm. I did change the forward mounting position of the thick black wire so that it tucked in at an angle - the original location forward of the bulkhead seamed to be in the wrong direction.

[wm cheng]

I then added some smaller scale hoses up forward on the arm. Instead of using the supplied yellow wire for this (I found that the supplied yellow was too flexible and did not hold its shape) I used some wire I had lying around that has a stiffer wire core that allowed me to shape it the way I liked and it held that shape.

The photo below showed one of the lineart drawings I was using as a guide.

Of course I had to paint the wires black first, before I glued them in place with crazy glue. I also had to touch up some of the wires and mounting holes with a brush with ModelMaster Acryl flat clear coat to disguise some of the excess crazy glue that showed around the edges. The crazy glue dries glossy and shiny, and the flat clear-coat helps blend it into the rest of the flat finished arm.

[wm cheng]

I think I'm about 98% done... just a bit of a oil wash on the newly added optional surface detail pieces and some hydraulic oil leakage on the actuators and some clips to look like they are holding the newly added hoses in place.

What do you guys think about that red wire/hose near the base? Does it stand out too much? Does it look too much like a red wire? I can't decide whether I should paint it out dark grey to match everything.

Then it will be off to a decent photo shoot against a dark background...

[Zinjo]

I think I'm about 98% done... just a bit of a oil wash on the newly added optional surface detail pieces and some hydraulic oil leakage on the actuators and some clips to look like they are holding the newly added hoses in place.

What do you guys think about that red wire/hose near the base?  Does it stand out too much?  Does it look too much like a red wire?  I can't decide whether I should paint it out dark grey to match everything.

Then it will be off to a decent photo shoot against a dark background...

347128[/snapback]

It looks like it needs to be dirtied down more to tone down the color and make it look as though it's been grease and oil stained.

I've never seen any red cables stay red very long in an industrial enviroment.

The addition of the red hose color is fine, it just may be too bright and distracting.

A few mild examples:

http://www.pbase.com/benace/aircondition

Edited November 24, 2005 by Zinjo

[Viceland]

Like Zinjo said, keep it red, but weather it a bit more.

I can't find the words to describe how awesome this is, you should bottle up some of that talent and sell it!

[rarityraider]

Amazing work... You're making a professional movie props !!

Would you take a completed photo album at studio for sharing as usual ?

I think all of us would like to hear you say "Yes"

[wm cheng]

I added some small wireing/hoses to the signal arm today as per the lineart. I had to paint the wires dark grey before I glued them down with crazy glue. Again, I drilled little holes so that the wires had something to seat itself into.

I also darkened and weathered the red hose - thanks for the reference pictures and suggestions, I agree, the red hose is nice in there - and now that its weathered and darkened, it doesn't stand out so much.

I also did an dark oil wash over the newly added surface optional parts to pick out their recessed details. I also added a brown wash to the hydraulic cylinders - a word of caution here, the thinned down oil/varsol mixture actually attacks the Tamiya silver marker. I forgot about this (I actually learned it doing one of the intake fans on an earlier model - some of you might of remembered the ?!@#$@ incident) of course I forgot and watched it attack the silver on the cylinders. Its not too bad, luckily I didn't add too much. Remember what I said about the fact that there are never any perfect models?!

[EXO]

I'm always astounded in how you continue to amaze me. Just when I think I have grasp of how good you are, you come out with something like this which takes me to another level of being blown away. I'm looking forward to the finished pictures. Make sure they're big enough to make backgrounds or maybe even posters of.

[wm cheng]

Well, here's a tease of some pictures I took... I'm not very happy with them; firstly, I don't have any solid background big enough (its a tough shape to photograph), secondly all the photos are somewhat blurry (or at least not as sharp as they could be) because its been so dim lately, and the model has such odd dimensions that I need to stop down to try and maintain any sort of depth of field to keep as much of it in focus - however by doing so, I don't really have enough light to keep the shutter speed as high as possible to avoid camera shake at these low lighting conditions. Lastly I can't go outside - its too cold now to photograph in natural daylight. I'll see if I have anytime next week to try again (or I can get back to work on the Boosters! )

[wm cheng]

I get some dark grey or black mat board or paper next week to try again. Oh, I forgot one thing, the red and white lettering on the signal arms. I might try to do my own artwork to get my inkjet printer to create something. Here's a few shots with the Valkyrie attached. If I get around to a better photo shoot next week with a proper background - I'll post larger sized photos on the Models forum like I used too and link it to this build up.

[Gundamhead]

I don't know if it's just creative types or not, but do you know when you get a idea in your head on how you want something to work out, and in your head you can see it, but trying to explain it to others makes you seem like a babbling buffoon, but you know it will be great when it's done...

Well in other words, a picture is worth a thousand words. You've showed us what was in my head.

BTW, you might be a little afraid of that...

I do hope to to get some work going on mine soon, but I know what you mean about this thing being a pain in the ass to photograph. I thought it was just me.

[neptunesurvey]

Your painting skills and attention to detail make this such a beautiful kit. Seeing this level of work from people, like you, inspires me in continuing to work on my own modeling skills. Thanks.

[Zinjo]

I'd suggest a few possible things for the beauty shots:

1. Use your workbench cutting board as the backdrop (it is grey and photographs with metallic sheen). Add some painted scrap sheets of styrene with some panels layed on and a few bits of available detail (painted if you like) so that it resembles the side of the ARMD carrier. (Top down shots and even a few angle shots would be possible, at least until the panels disappear).

2. Using the grey placard sheet you are considering buying and do the same to create the illusion that we are looking at the side of the ARMD (same as above, however with a large enough sheet you could get away with a few hand drawn panel lines for distance detail)

3. Photograph the arm with the valk attached and signal boom "only" against a black background. Over expose it sufficiently so all the colors show against the black (too many shadows along the edges tend to bleed into the object piece). We can do a lot with raw footage like that in photoshop... The best thing is that you can shoot multiple angles, so long as the hanger door isn't showing (we'd already have those beauty shots from the top down shots).

You do have a few shots there that are usable as they are. Generally the ones of the Valk and the arm only. To get the hanger door may take a bit of "creative" background fill...

A few suggestions to consider...

Edited November 26, 2005 by Zinjo

[chrono]

Great work!

A shame that the kit wasn't designed to be angled. That would've given some sweet looking shots.