TV Ghost - 1/72 model kit

[Less than Super Ostrich]

dibs on the one in the middle

[honneamise]

dibs on the one in the middle

386222[/snapback]

Well, the two on the left have some air bubbles ´cause they were for testing out where the "problem spots" of the molds are - don´t know if you want THESE....

Right now I´ve been experimenting with white paint and the resin does almost look like like plain polystyrene now, less translucent.

For the gear parts I have added aluminium powder to make the stuff harder, I put one of the models on wheels and try if they are strong enough. I think it works unless you point a hairdryer at full heat right on the landing gear.

[Mechmaster]

This is currently registering around 10.5 on my droolometer!

Keep up the amazing work, I can hardly wait for the announcement that you are ready to start shipping.

[nightmareB4macross]

dibs on the one in the middle

386222[/snapback]

Well, the two on the left have some air bubbles ´cause they were for testing out where the \"problem spots\" of the molds are - don´t know if you want THESE....

Right now I´ve been experimenting with white paint and the resin does almost look like like plain polystyrene now, less translucent.

For the gear parts I have added aluminium powder to make the stuff harder, I put one of the models on wheels and try if they are strong enough. I think it works unless you point a hairdryer at full heat right on the landing gear.

386237[/snapback]

How about placing brass or steel rods in the mold cavities, prior to pouring? The resin should flow around the rod and make for stronger pieces.

[Gundamhead]

Probably a bit overkill. You could just as easy lop out a section and replace it with styrene, brass, or aluminum if warping is what worries you. they seem pretty basic

[Gundamhead]

dibs on the one in the middle

386222[/snapback]

Well, the two on the left have some air bubbles ´cause they were for testing out where the "problem spots" of the molds are - don´t know if you want THESE....

Right now I´ve been experimenting with white paint and the resin does almost look like like plain polystyrene now, less translucent.

For the gear parts I have added aluminium powder to make the stuff harder, I put one of the models on wheels and try if they are strong enough. I think it works unless you point a hairdryer at full heat right on the landing gear.

386237[/snapback]

I'd like one nice casting. However, would you be willing to sell some of your rejects cheap? I got a diorama in mind.

[MechTech]

Looks great honneamise! Better get a couple of those on flying patrol to keep our fellow MW'ers under control. It sounds like they're gonna riot!

Have you tried any color dies (besides paint) to tint your resin? It's great stuff! I built a whole Destroid Phalanx in color. No more scratched paint to worry about!

"Keep 'em flying..." - MT

[neptunesurvey]

Looking great as usually honneamise.

[honneamise]

Looks great honneamise!  Better get a couple of those on flying patrol to keep our fellow MW'ers under control.  It sounds like they're gonna riot!

Have you tried any color dies (besides paint) to tint your resin?  It's great stuff!  I built a whole Destroid Phalanx in color.  No more scratched paint to worry about!

"Keep 'em flying..." - MT

386366[/snapback]

MechTech I found out that my resin company offers a special paste that comes in several colours, guess you can mix any colour you want. But I´d never leave a resin kit unpainted - over the years they get darker and they yellow as hell, no way around that unless they invent UV-proof resin. If you expose a resin part to direct sunlight you will notice the yellowing (or "browning" if the part was yellow at first) within a week, but only on the sun-lit side! Looks messy.

[Sdf-1]

Colored resin is also easier to prep work I would think. White doesn't show imperfections very much. And I think MechTech meant that the possible scratches don't show up as badly as in white resin. Just guessing. I must say I'm a fan of Captain's colored castings.

Edited April 1, 2006 by Sdf-1

[Grayson72]

Not sure why you'd want to go to the extra trouble and expense. Since they're models and you'll be painting them. There shouldn't be any scratches unless you're PLAYING WITH YOUR MODELS! LOL j/k

Edited April 1, 2006 by Grayson72

[Sdf-1]

Indeed, I don't see a reason why would there be scratches if you handle models normally. Does it really add the price of a kit noticeably if it's dyed, let's say grey? I wouldn't think so. Of course I might be wrong.

[Sar]

Indeed, I don't see a reason why would there be scratches if you handle models normally.

386587[/snapback]

I don't know... I've accidentally scratched paint jobs while I'm constructing the model before. I tend to leave mine on a shelf, so there's not much opportunity for post-construction damage. Thinking about it it's probably better that I did notice such damage before I finished the kit, though, so that I could properly deal with it before it was too late...

Does it really add the price of a kit noticeably if it's dyed, let's say grey? I wouldn't think so. Of course I might be wrong.

386587[/snapback]

I've used powdered pigment for colouring resin before, and for the volume of pigment I needed the cost was negligible compared to the cost of the resin - something like £5 for a tin that looked like it'd last for 5 or 6 kilos of resin. Although I wasn't using enough of the stuff to make the resin a really rich solid colour, my main goal was just to distinguish it from other bits of resin.

[chrono]

For the gear parts I have added aluminium powder to make the stuff harder, I put one of the models on wheels and try if they are strong enough. I think it works unless you point a hairdryer at full heat right on the landing gear.

So is powdered aluminium cheaper then powdered calcium?

I'm only asking because Rubbermaid uses 14% calcium in some of their products for the same purpose. Only difference is that Rubbermaid looks for the cheapest of cheap source products to use!

[onezero]

Well, I'd be in for a couple if it ain't too late. I really should read this board more often.....

[Grayson72]

Shouldn't be too late, wow that brings the total to one short of 60, you hit the jackpot Thorsten.

[specr0101]

I couldn't resist...please add me to the list for "1" as well

Thanks!

[Ranger565]

with 60 orders, how will the first ones go out? IMHO. those who have been with the project from the beginning should be able to pay first. I have no problems with everyone getting there wish. But thoes who have been with this from day one, should get first crack at the kit.

my 2 cents

[MechTech]

honneamise, you're right about the yellowing. I build engineering parts out of resin too other than model stuff. I like dying to see that the resin is thoroughly mixed and for a proffesional appearance. I haven't had any dyed parts yellow yet, even after several years. I can't vouch for the color white though. In your case, I could see not using dye to keep production cost down. Plus everyone is going to paint their's anyhow (those who actaully get to buiding them) It's more of a customizing thing really. Take care. - MT

[honneamise]

I think I will try to make like 3 batches with 20 kits each. Ranger 565 I had the same thoughts, I think it is just fair to PM the first people who were interested in the kit first. I can´t handle that many kits all at the same time, so it will take a few weeks before all have their PM - but I´ll keep casting (and making new molds to ensure clean parts) until all orders are filled.

As for coloured parts, dye is not expensive. I chose white because of the white portions of the kit - my thoughts were that you´ll need less base colour to actually paint it white if the plastic is already as close to white as it can get. Grey looks somewhat better on unpainted parts and it would make the painting of the blue part easier. Still, if there´s white involved, I always regard it as a limiting factor.

For example, I bought 3 Hasgawa VF-1J kits to build the Hikaru, Max and Millia versions but I avoided the Max/Milia 2-kit because I HATE to paint white on blue/red plastic.

Of course I can cast subsequent kits in a light grey if you like it better.

Regarding reinforced landing gear struts, I had considered putting rods into the molds before casting, but the main gear legs are straight at the wheel wells, then bent outward, then straight again at the wheels - takes hours to bend a metal rod to the right shape, especially if you had to do it 120 times! So I just made them from resin/aluminium (don´t know if this is the cheapest stuff but I already had a can of it) and tried out if the gear can sustain the weight of the plane. Actually, I´ve even put an addidional weight of 500g on top of it and it is still on its wheels!

[Gundamhead]

Hmpf. Big talk, getting it first, but are you gonna actually build it first?

B'side, ain't that the way all our ordering here is done anyhoo?

with 60 orders,  how will the first ones go out?  IMHO.  those who have been with the project from the beginning should be able to pay first.  I have no problems with everyone getting there wish. But thoes who have been with this from day one, should get first crack at the kit.

my 2 cents

386722[/snapback]

[Sdf-1]

What was the price again? I have temptations about this kit... Must resist...resist...Or must I..? Argh!

[Ranger565]

Hmpf. Big talk, getting it first, but are you gonna actually build it first?  

B'side, ain't that the way all our ordering here is done anyhoo?

with 60 orders,  how will the first ones go out?   IMHO.  those who have been with the project from the beginning should be able to pay first.   I have no problems with everyone getting there wish. But thoes who have been with this from day one, should get first crack at the kit.

my 2 cents

386722[/snapback]

386763[/snapback]

Bah I ment no disrespect.

[Grayson72]

What was the price again? I have temptations about this kit... Must resist...resist...Or must I..? Argh!

386765[/snapback]

Get it now or regret it later.

[Gabe Q]

What was the price again? I have temptations about this kit... Must resist...resist...Or must I..? Argh!

386765[/snapback]

Get it now or regret it later.

386801[/snapback]

Grayson's right. That's the only reason I have a bajillion unbuilt kits. Good luck finding one later on.

[Sdf-1]

What was the price again? I have temptations about this kit... Must resist...resist...Or must I..? Argh!

386765[/snapback]

Get it now or regret it later.

386801[/snapback]

Grayson's right. That's the only reason I have a bajillion unbuilt kits. Good luck finding one later on.

386802[/snapback]

Of course I know that, but I can't afford every freaking thing at the same time.

[neptunesurvey]

Yes, you can. Just don't eat for a few days.

[Sdf-1]

Yes, you can.  Just don't eat for a few days.

387234[/snapback]

Well, Macross isn't the only thing I love, and buy related kits.

[specr0101]

Well you can go w/o food for at least 30 days and water for 3 days...

Yes, you can.  Just don't eat for a few days.

387234[/snapback]

Well, Macross isn't the only thing I love, and buy related kits.

387338[/snapback]

[neptunesurvey]

*bump*

[honneamise]

I´m at it... first run is almost finished, more to follow... I´m so fed up with the smell of resin and these sticky fingers I get:( my room is a mess but the kits look great.

[Chas]

Sticky fingers hunh?

Oh right! you mean from casting.

[Fly4victory]

What is the process to order and then send payment for the models?

[Less than Super Ostrich]

I'd state your interest in buying it in this thread. Then I think Thorsten will contact you with the details.

[MechTech]

honneamise, you thought you'd have a life and major modeling project going at the same time? My wife gets annoyed when I do big casting projects. It usually means stuff laying around and around. Not to mention the smells. Even with the non-stinky stuff. Great results mean hard work though. Keep it up! Happy molding! - MT