wolfx Posted June 20, 2006 Posted June 20, 2006 Hey guys I eventually plan on getting a VF-0. Sometime later this year. I am happy with the hikaru 1S 1/48 I purchased 2 years back. My question is, since I liked the 1/48, how well does the VF-0 toy stack up? You boys think I'd like it? Discuss! 409407[/snapback] Yes you would. Why? Refer 92 pages back. And an added yes since they are fixing the loose joints. Damn you yamato. Kudos to those who would wait for a revision to the 1s run. I just couldn't wait. Quote
do not disturb Posted June 20, 2006 Posted June 20, 2006 after purchasing a 1st ed. roy(too cheap) and 1st ed. monster(impatience), i've realized its usually better to wait for the 2nd production run. but hey, you gotta give it up to yamato for listening to the fans and making fixes when they're needed. Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted June 20, 2006 Posted June 20, 2006 (edited) Which leads me to the question... how exactly did this site begin and who exactly ARE Shawn and Graham? Are they real --- or just legends And more importantly, how do I become like them? (I.E. I wish Yamato cared what my opinions were!) Should I create a new thread about this? 409164[/snapback] HAHA. Yes we should make a thread and sticky it. Or maybe put it in the forum FAQ. Origins of Macrossworld. Who are Shawn and Graham? What/Who is AgentOne? (which reminds me, what happened to him?) 409344[/snapback] You're right. And who in the hell IS agentone?! ---nevermind. Read all the next posts. Clicked the link. Agent one will be banging-anus on Macrossworld no longer. Good. I'm pist that I got a 1st production VF-0 now. Wish I'd have waited. Wish I'd have gotten a super-stealth instead... Edited June 20, 2006 by GutsAndCasca Quote
1/1 LowViz Lurker Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) Buying first edition anything can make you feel bad but you at least got to gloat that you had it first. Ie 1. you buy a nintendo DS which is in high demand and limited in number at first. (those who missed out feel like poo as thier friends get to gloat) 2. newer improved version comes (those who bought the original feel like poo now because they feel pressured to upgrade) all in the name of progress. meanwhile, cheaper secondhand older models are for sale to those who upgrade to newer model. Opening up a lower price point for the bargain hunter who is budget conscious and/or wants a second one for cheap. Newbie buyers who only just jumped in, can now take advantage of better prices in the secondhand market and get stuff they ordinarily would not have been able to buy. Collectors who may not care about mib conditions, can now own more overall valks and post thier number on MWB. It's all good Another example: 1. Masterpiece prime comes out. (you buy it happy to snap it up, gloating that the price will go up as demand increases) 2. Masterpiece prime is reissued (people who missed it, are happy to buy it, no longer pissed they missed out) 3. Masterpiece prime with trailer comes out (all the people who missed masterpiece prime can now get the proper version, everyone is pissed but happy to buy the best version of something) each groups gets to gloat for different reasons. Edited June 21, 2006 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker Quote
Valk-1S Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 I wouldn't feel bad for those who purchased the 1st Issue. Other than Yamato making the joints tigher, nothing else has been mentioned to be improve. And don't forget, sometimes Yamato goes from better to worse. ie Crooked Skull. Other problems that happen to the 1st Issue will still happen in the reissue. eg incorrect arms, broken spike on tailfin, wrong magnets, etc. Unless there is design updates like the 1/48 - nose cone and wingflaps, ppl who have bought the 1st Issue shouldn't feel bad for the reissues. Quote
eugimon Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 meh, I don't feel bad at all. both of mine came fine, they pose well enough. the joints are not 1/48 tight, which would be cool if they were. and if these reissues do come out, I'll probably get one of them as well. Quote
ghostryder Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) I agree, the knee looseness of issue #1 isn't terrible and doesn't affect poseability. The way the legs don't lock to the backpack in fighter mode bugs me more, as that affects my ability to hold the fighter and zoom it around the house . Can they redesign the leg-backpack pegs? In the long run, I think I can fix all the minor quirks of the first issue myself. The paint and tampo printing is essentially perfect on mine, so I'm reluctant to buy another just to get one improvement, only to risk having something else bunged up. I have my 1/48s to "play" with, as they are rock solid throughout. Bring on the VF-0A!! Edited June 21, 2006 by ghostryder Quote
Roy's Blues Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 I agree, the knee looseness of issue #1 isn't terrible and doesn't affect poseability. The way the legs don't lock to the backpack in fighter mode bugs me more, as that affects my ability to hold the fighter and zoom it around the house . Can they redesign the leg-backpack pegs? In the long run, I think I can fix all the minor quirks of the first issue myself. The paint and tampo printing is essentially perfect on mine, so I'm reluctant to buy another just to get one improvement, only to risk having something else bunged up. I have my 1/48s to "play" with, as they are rock solid throughout. Bring on the VF-0A!! 409805[/snapback] Mine has that as well. I am cosidering getting some magnets and some crazy glue for quick fix Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 I wouldn't feel bad for those who purchased the 1st Issue. Other than Yamato making the joints tigher, nothing else has been mentioned to be improve. And don't forget, sometimes Yamato goes from better to worse. ie Crooked Skull. Other problems that happen to the 1st Issue will still happen in the reissue. eg incorrect arms, broken spike on tailfin, wrong magnets, etc. Unless there is design updates like the 1/48 - nose cone and wingflaps, ppl who have bought the 1st Issue shouldn't feel bad for the reissues. 409720[/snapback] Freaking crap. I've been spelling "Mospeada" as "Mospaeda" all along. I thought it was the A before the E. (Ebay was my 1st exposure to the name, during a search for Gakkens) Damn. Quote
takatoys Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 Just got the Yamato VF-0S and looks amazing. The toy is in perfect condition, no complaints except for the joints in the arms that should be tighter or with a clicking mechanism. Size is perfect, the quality looks better than other previous Yamato toys, tampo markings including the one on the control panel are a mayor plus. I think this is the best macross toy released so far. Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) I personally like the VF-1's the best so far, but that definitely is some great detailing work. Nifty! My mind might change when they release the VF0A though... CRAP. It just hit me. I should have done my panel lining on my Zero-S before I put the freaking stickers on. Damn... guess I won't be paneling. CRAP. Edited June 21, 2006 by GutsAndCasca Quote
ghostryder Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 CRAP. It just hit me. I should have done my panel lining on my Zero-S before I put the freaking stickers on. Damn... guess I won't be paneling. CRAP. 409893[/snapback] Just peel em off, panel-line away, and wait for Takatoy to come out with his VF-0 stickers Quote
aaajin Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 yeah takatoy, dont tell me you use yamato's stock stickers on that one!. go do your homework n make us, VF-0S owners, proud! Quote
takatoys Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I used my own set of VF-0S stickers that I just made and will be for pre-order soon. I will give the details on a new topic this weekend. Yamato used the kite symbol scale of the old 1/60 VF-1S and for me, it is too small. It looks much better if you use the kite symbol of the 1/48 as I did on the nose of the zero Quote
eugimon Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I used my own set of VF-0S stickers that I just made and will be for pre-order soon. I will give the details on a new topic this weekend. Yamato used the kite symbol scale of the old 1/60 VF-1S and for me, it is too small. It looks much better if you use the kite symbol of the 1/48 as I did on the nose of the zero 409907[/snapback] are you going to provide both sizes on your sticker sheet? Quote
GutsAndCasca Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 Provide both sizes! Make us as cool as you, taka! Quote
Vermillion21 Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 Nice detailing of the VF-0S Takatoys! Impressive pics. Quote
Fly4victory Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 (edited) Larger Markings! That is why it looks so much better. Waiting in the wings for the pre-order. Looks great. Edit Spelling Edited June 22, 2006 by Fly4victory Quote
Vermillion21 Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 Panel lining .... does that mean you guys use a fine tipped black pen and trace over the "indented" lines of the toy? Quote
1/1 LowViz Lurker Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 I use a technical pencil. I don't want to make any mistakes. Quote
izzyfcuk Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 I use a technical pencil. I don't want to make any mistakes. 410497[/snapback] Use black enamel and turpentine %10 enamel black + 90% turpentine.. use a fine tip brush to dip and let the pain flow into the panel lines. any mistakes can simply be wiped away with a cotton bud dipped with turpentine. Quote
ghostryder Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 (edited) I use a technical pencil. I don't want to make any mistakes. 410497[/snapback] Ditto, 0.3mm mechanical. Fast, forgiving (for us novices), and more subtle than paint. I also use a Pigma micron 005 (0.2mm) black pen for darker parts like fastpacks, feet, and intake covers. In the process of penciling/penning my zero now.... as well as tightening those pesky loose knees and leg-backpack peg connections Edited June 23, 2006 by ghostryder Quote
Wicked Ace Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 The VF-0S is a beautiful, big bird. It is impressive even next to a 1/48 scale VF-1. I'm glad I got one with "tail spikes" intact and correctly placed magnets. Quote
eugimon Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 (edited) fraking double post... Edited June 23, 2006 by eugimon Quote
Wicked Ace Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 oooh, such a sexy custom low viz... 410669[/snapback] Not yet. Quote
eugimon Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 oooh, such a sexy custom low viz... 410669[/snapback] Not yet. 410675[/snapback] !!! AWESOMENESS !!! Quote
Wicked Ace Posted June 24, 2006 Posted June 24, 2006 (edited) For those concerned about loose joints, I wouldn't worry too much. Edited June 24, 2006 by Wicked Ace Quote
ghostryder Posted June 24, 2006 Posted June 24, 2006 After spreading (thinly) some epoxy on the leg-backpack tabs and between the knee swivel joints, I'm happy to say the fighter mode is as solid as my 1/48s. This goony bird is panel lined and waiting for Takatoy stickers... Quote
eriku Posted June 24, 2006 Posted June 24, 2006 Just spent an hour of quality time panel-lining my Zero (used a .3mm drafting pencil since it was my first panel-lining project) and I fell in love with it all over again. This thing is so many kinds of cool that it makes me dizzy to think about the YF-19...it seems hard to beat the Zero. One thing I never really noticed before is that the hatch where the leg bar plugs into in battroid mode seems to hang a little loosely in fighter mode. No matter what I try it doesn't seem to want to hold tightly or flush with the fusalage. It's not hanging open or anything, but it's definately noticable. Any suggestions? Quote
eugimon Posted June 24, 2006 Posted June 24, 2006 ghostryder- how did you get the epoxy in the knee swivel joint? everything seems glued up pretty tightly on mine.. Quote
Valk-1S Posted June 25, 2006 Posted June 25, 2006 (edited) Finally had a chance to open one of mine last night. Everything was perfect except the knee swivel joint was a little loose. Also, 2 out of 7 the airbreaks don't close as well as its sticking out a little. Was pretty scary to bend the legs down to transform from fighter to gerwalk. The lock was soo tight, that I had to use quite a bit of force to get the legs down. Almost afraid I broke it. The zero looks much better proportion wise to the 1/48 but the 1/48 locks in place much better. Edited June 25, 2006 by Valk-1S Quote
ghostryder Posted June 25, 2006 Posted June 25, 2006 (edited) ghostryder- how did you get the epoxy in the knee swivel joint? everything seems glued up pretty tightly on mine.. 410978[/snapback] I knew I should have taken more pics... anyhoo, the white thigh halves are held together by 1 long screw, and only the back seam is lightly glued (on mine anyways). I was able to break the glue joint no prob. Once you do that, there are 2 tiny screws that hold the lower gray pieces above the knee. The swivel socket and stem are inside these gray pieces. Just spread about <1/2 mm of 1-ton epoxy on one flat side of the swivel joint, let set, and put back together. I didn't even bother to re-glue the white thigh halves. Next up, I may try the elbow swivels, but those don't bother me as much. edit - watch out for those 2 metal pins inside the thighs, almost lost 1! Two more for the road... now where's that darn pitot tube?? Edited June 26, 2006 by ghostryder Quote
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