My 1/48 VF-1S Yamato with decals dressed...

[ZorClone]

question: I've applied the Yamato decals to my valk, will this MicroSol stuff work on them even now? If it does what I think it does (flattens the edges out to the plastic to make them less obvious?) then I'd like to see about using it..

and hell yeah, your VF-1S looks stunning!

[wm cheng]

With the gears down and the forward diagonal crack/seam as large as it gets - its not too bad with the decals in place. I applied the decals with the gears up, so the seam closes up, then I let it dry and sliced it with a sharp x-acto knife before I extended the gears again.

You'll notice that there is a whitish blob in the front gear door where the light is. I painted it silver and what you see here is a blob of Microscale Krystal Keeler drying - its essentially white glue that dries exeptionally clear that will form a lens over the silver painted light.

[rnurmin]

Waow, I like it.

WM Cheng: How much does it cost if I want to send my VF-1S to you and have you customize it just like yours ???

[wm cheng]

Here's a shot above showing the light grey artist oil wash in the panel lines.

Hey Graham - if you are reading this, I have a wishlist comment for Yamato - or a real challenge to customizers on this board. I wish Yamato would consider opening up the top chestplate intakes - I don't need it to be very deep, just like the Hasegawas would be fine with a little filler piece in behind. I considered cutting one out (and may still) but the plastic is pretty thick, hard and brittle. For something this scale 1/48 and all the thought that has been put into it - it seems a shame now that we have this flat closed intake right on top where you see all the time.

[wm cheng]

Oh I keep forgetting to answer this question, the decals are not pre-cut nor the decal carrier film pre-cut to follow the contours of the designs. The entire sheet is one large decal film - and you have to cut each thing out individually (and trim as close to the designs as possible). I found the white stuff like the pilots names and skull harder to do since its printed on a white background paper too - but if you look carefully enough with a bright light and patience its managable. Don't any one get scared off with waterslide decals - this stuff is much easier than a model - its pretty forgiving.

Hey ZorClone, as long as you didn't clear coat over it, I think it should still work. I would dab a lot over the decal and let it sit for a while - just let it evapourate on its own. I might do this a few times, and you could help it by pressing down on the edges when its semi-dry. Of course it works best when its wet, but it doesn't hurt to try - and apply and let dry several times. Post some pictures of your bird too - I'd like to see.

A few people have asked me to do this customizing. Well basically, I don't normally do this for anyone else, its kind of a passion of mine. However since I am not working at the moment and I do have some free time (and need cash ), but its not cheap. Basically it takes two full days or so of full time work to get one of these babies up to par - the decals alone took 6 straight hours of work without breaks! Plus you need time to let the oil washes and clear coats dry - mask the canopy. Most people wouldn't/couldn't afford it, so its a labour of love - and I would recommend anyone to try it themselves - its most rewarding. That being said, if I were to do it, I would just charge my time (luckily when I do work I have a great rate, minus a substaintial bonus since I do love this stuff), probabily in the neighbourhood of $300usd or $500cdn + shipping (Valk and decals naturally not included). A props house would proabably charge twice that. Ah, if I don't get real work soon - I might do it for a new VF-1A Max with fast packs

Anyways please enjoy - its really not as hard as you guys make it seem - its just time. And what better way of spending time than with Macross!!

[Myersjessee]

Looks really nice WM...thanks for sharing your tips and techniques! The little extra black on the missiles makes all the difference in the world!

[ManxoChu]

Hory Mory!! That looks out-freaking-standing!! If the Skull-One looks that great in Fighter, how does she look in Gerwalk and Soldier/Batroid?

[ewilen]

Beautiful.

One thing I wonder--how durable are the various sticker/decal options? What can be done/needs to be done to maximize durability? I want to be able to transform my Valks whenever I feel like it, without having to wear gloves.

[Toonz]

now this is REAL VF-1S!

*looking at mine.....bleh....*

how about other modes?

[recon]

Hiya Wmcheng,

Beautiful and Awesome work!!. I was thinking of doing the same when i get my decals from Devin. The clear coat not only protects the decal but also the plastic mold especially for us folks living in hot and humid countries where white turns yellowish in time. Just a question for ya, issit possible to just do decal and panel lining without having to spray a clear coat over them when its finished as im not so sure a lacquer based acryllic clear coat would ruin the paint job of the valk itself? (Rephrased question) If i really do must spray a clear coat, do i have to mask any sections, especially the canopy area? And whats the thinner/paint ratio you used for clear coating your 1/48, issit different from the regular mixture you used to clear coat your models?

For devin: Will the waterslide decals after application stand to up handling without peeling off like regular stickers?

Devin please put me up for a couple of these at the end of the year when you ready for the next batch of production, not forgetting the 1/72 Blueroses custom decals i requested.

Thanks for your help and assistance.

Cheers

Edited September 27, 2003 by recon

[recon]

now this is REAL VF-1S!

*looking at mine.....bleh....*

how about other modes?

Hey toonz,

I would be ordering some of these 1/48 waterslide decals from DEvin. You interested in some?

Cheers

[Toonz]

will be too nervous to apply

[recon]

will be too nervous to apply

Too nervous? Come on im sure they will be much tougher than the regular decals if not as tough as stickers but take a little trouble and time to apply.

[Isamu Atreides 86]

nice work WM. i can't wait for my set from Devin! those things are gonna rock!

[Toonz]

will be too nervous to apply

Too nervous? Come on im sure they will be much tougher than the regular decals if not as tough as stickers but take a little trouble and time to apply.

let me meditate on my emotion

[Hurin]

Just a question for ya, issit possible to decal and panel lining without having to spray a clear coat over it as im not so sure a lacquer based acryllic clear coat would ruin the paint job of the valk itself?

Don't know what is recommended, but I asked this question above and WM said that in this particular case, he applied the decals without first laying down a layer of clear-coat.

I think, however, that this is the exception rather than the rule and he was just excited and impatient.

Best Regards,

H

[wm cheng]

I believe the decals after proper MicroSOL and sealant under the clear coats will be just as durable as the paint finish on the Yamatos. That being said, of course you can scratch them if you wanted to, but I don't believe that just transforming them and playing with this toy is going to damage them. But I'll let you know if I scratch any of them off or if any of them fall off in the next little while. I have Yamato stickers on my 1/60 Yamatos, and they sometimes get caught because their edges are so thick - so in this case I feel the decals will actually last better. No I don't feel I have to be more careful with this toy because of the decals - I wouldn't have chosen decals if I thought I would have to change my playing habits. This is why I chose not to post-shade weather this toy - I think by post-shading, I might have to handle this toy differently. Time will only tell. I would love to hear from others on these boards about their decal storys.

No, I didn't clear coat first then decal - I only clear coated it afterwards to seal in the decals. However I do notice that they do adhere better to painted surfaces than the bare plastic. I suppose one should wash the toy thoroughly in dish detergent to remove any grease from playing before decalling - but one should do that even when applying stickers too.

My clear coat mixture was pretty much the same as my modelling about 2:1 semi-gloss to thinner ratio - its the best mix for my particular airbrush. The only thing was that I sprayed it on rather heavily (much more heavily than I do with plastic models), and several coats - thinking that if some layers scratch off during rough play - then so be it. The finish is identical to the bare plastic one, so one wouldn't notice if a few layers were to be scratched off. Plus all the details are so deep, I wouldn't loose much if the clear coat was thicker - just more protection. The only thing I masked off was the canopy and I retracted the gears when I sprayed. Everything else can be that semi-gloss sheen. In fact, I didn't even do a very consistent coat, I sprayed more where I had decals and markings, but I feathered it off to almost nothing at the nosecones, arms, and feet, since there was nothing to protect there - and I noticed that you really can't see where I had the semi-gloss clear coat and where I had just bare plastic. In hindsight, I guess I should have masked off all the clear parts such as the wing landing lights, and the blue and red lights on the rear gear doors - but I might just brush some future floor polish on them to bring back their glossiness. I can't vouch for all clear coats, but my ModelMaster Acryl semi-gloss clear coat did not react in any way to the Yamato paint finish. I actually feel that the clear coat better protects this toy overall.

Edited September 27, 2003 by wm cheng

[recon]

I believe the decals after proper MicroSOL and sealant under the clear coats will be just as durable as the paint finish on the Yamatos.  That being said, of course you can scratch them if you wanted to, but I don't believe that just transforming them and playing with this toy is going to damage them.  But I'll let you know if I scratch any of them off or if any of them fall off in the next little while.  I have Yamato stickers on my 1/60 Yamatos, and they sometimes get caught because their edges are so thick - so in this case I feel the decals will actually last better.  No I don't feel I have to be more careful with this toy because of the decals - I wouldn't have chosen decals if I thought I would have to change my playing habits.  This is why I chose not to post-shade weather this toy - I think by post-shading, I might have to handle this toy differently.  Time will only tell.  I would love to hear from others on these boards about their decal storys.

No, I didn't clear coat first then decal - I only clear coated it afterwards to seal in the decals.  However I do notice that they do adhere better to painted surfaces than the bare plastic.  I suppose one should wash the toy thoroughly in dish detergent to remove any grease from playing before decalling - but one should do that even when applying stickers too.

My clear coat mixture was pretty much the same as my modelling about 2:1 semi-gloss to thinner ratio - its the best mix for my particular airbrush.  The only thing was that I sprayed it on rather heavily (much more heavily than I do with plastic models), and several coats - thinking that if some layers scratch off during rough play - then so be it.  The finish is identical to the bare plastic one, so one wouldn't notice if a few layers were to be scratched off.  Plus all the details are so deep, I wouldn't loose much if the clear coat was thicker - just more protection.  The only thing I masked off was the canopy and I retracted the gears when I sprayed.  Everything else can be that semi-gloss sheen.  In fact, I didn't even do a very consistent coat, I sprayed more where I had decals and markings, but I feathered it off to almost nothing at the nosecones, arms, and feet, since there was nothing to protect there - and I noticed that you really can't see where I had the semi-gloss clear coat and where I had just bare plastic.  I can't vouch for all clear coats, but my ModelMaster Acryl semi-gloss clear coat did not react in any way to the Yamato paint finish.  I actually feel that the clear coat better protects this toy overall.

Hi Wmcheng, Thanks for the advice!

Im not too comfortable with applying an untested clearcoat on an expensive toy, so i was contemplating on just doing panel wash and decal application. Maybe i would try to locate a ModelMaster Clear acryllics here or test try a clear coat on the missles provided first. Devin did mentioned that even without doing a clear coat to seal in the decals and panel wash, they are still pretty durable. Ultimately i wish to apply a thin layer of clear coat to protect the decals as well as the basic mold of the valk from yellowing due to environment reasons or handling issues. another question for ya, you mentioned about using elmer glue to secure the missles in place in the Fps, i was wondering if i could use Tamiya liquid cement instead?

Wmcheng could we have pictures of it in battroid or gerwalk?

Thanks

Edited September 27, 2003 by recon

[wm cheng]

I honestly believe the clear coat is the way to go to protect the decals - I even clear-coated my older 1/60 that had stickers on. The clear coat seals in that tiny gap between the edges of the stickers or decals. Look for some acrylic non-laquer clear-coat look for any alternatives that are water based - they are generally weaker and kinder to the undersuface. I am sure the Aquous stuff or Polly S clear coats would do - I doubt any of them will attack the plastic so the missile idea probabily would not help. If there is any concerns, it would be the painted areas, such as the black stripes or the yellow markings in the case of the VF-1S. Gernerally laquer thinner will take most thing off - so be warned.

No, do not use tamiya liquid cement (unless you want a permanent bond). In fact don't use any "solvent" type glues - they actually "melt" a bit of the plastic to bond or fuse the pieces together. Now I'm not sure what ABS or kind of plastic these Yamatos use and whether they desolve like stryene which is what plastic models are and melts quite easily with liquid cement - but lets not tempt fate. Just common white glue will work best, because you can remove it after - hell, even rubber cement will do! Just stay away from contact cement, CA glues (unless you want it to be more permanent), epoxies, methel hydrate, or some of the more esoteric stuff out there.

I'll post other poses later - after the weekend, I want to get back to my YF-21 thread!!

[Dat Pinche Haro!]

u gotta give it up for wm cheng...seems like he can always improve on perfection

[recon]

u gotta give it up for wm cheng...seems like he can always improve on perfection

You can say that again, Thats why i always follow on his leads cos of his vast experience and knowledge in regards to modelling.

Cheers

[pfunk]

A few people have asked me to do this customizing. Well basically, I don't normally do this for anyone else, its kind of a passion of mine. However since I am not working at the moment and I do have some free time (and need cash ), but its not cheap. Basically it takes two full days or so of full time work to get one of these babies up to par - the decals alone took 6 straight hours of work without breaks! Plus you need time to let the oil washes and clear coats dry - mask the canopy. Most people wouldn't/couldn't afford it, so its a labour of love - and I would recommend anyone to try it themselves - its most rewarding. That being said, if I were to do it, I would just charge my time (luckily when I do work I have a great rate, minus a substaintial bonus since I do love this stuff), probabily in the neighbourhood of $300usd or $500cdn + shipping (Valk and decals naturally not included). A props house would proabably charge twice that. Ah, if I don't get real work soon - I might do it for a new VF-1A Max with fast packs

Heck yeah,

It took me about 2 straight hours to do a wash on one fastpack, gotta finish now. Who do I get ahold of to get some decals? I wont be applying any clearcote untill I buy my airbrush (Ireally dont want to do it with a spray can) So I'll be living with a fragile 1/48 till then

[Swoosh]

If spray can is my only choice, any good suggestion? Tamiya? Gunze?

e.g. Gunze Sangyo's TOPCOAT (Water Base)

[recon]

If spray can is my only choice, any good suggestion? Tamiya? Gunze?

e.g. Gunze Sangyo's TOPCOAT (Water Base)

If that is the last alternative, i would recommend Gunze Sangyo's TOPCOAT (Water Base) or Mr Hobby Clear Coat (Water base). But cons is pressure not constant, may indue splattering at low pressure.

I would rather you get a modeller at any hobby shops which im sure that is plenty in Hong Kong using an airbrush to do a clear coat for ya. But bearing in mine the coat has to be water based not acryllic lacquer.

Cheers

[Hurin]

Hey WM, how about a few words about your photography technique. I've got a digital camera. But obviously. . . both its capabilities and my skills are lacking. . .

How do you get such clear, detailed, close-up pictures!?!

Thanks!

Hurin

[memphis]

AWEsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[wm cheng]

Hmm, phoot technique eh, well if its one world its light and lots of it! I use a Nikon 990 - I love this camera, its a bit old by todays standards, but has an excellent macro (can focus as close as 0.3 inches from lens) and one of the best light meters in a digital camera I have ever experienced.

1. LOTS OF LIGHT, usually I use the sun, or overcast outdoor daylight since I don't have studio lighting anymore. In direct sun, you get harsh shadows, so lightly overcast or in shadow outside is fine.

2. Simple background where ever possible - makes your subject stand out

3. Lots of depth of field - if you've got lots of light, you can stop down (use a smaller aperature or higher f-stop number) so the foreground and background is in focus. This tends to make the photo sharper and the scale larger.

4. Get close to your subject, have it fill the frame whenever possible.

Thats about it, let see some of your creations!!

[Fortress_Maximus]

Great work wm! Post more if you've done anything new.

[valkyrie312]

Beautiful valk!

I need to get a 1/48 VF-1S! (Too bad I'm a poor teacher.)

David

[CdnShockwave]

Beautiful valk!

I need to get a 1/48 VF-1S! (Too bad I'm a poor teacher.)

David

It's ok, I'm a poor student.

Awsome apps!

[Gabe Q]

WM, you never posted any pics in battroid mode.

Puh-leez!

[Rusty]

It's really nice see again da WM CHEN works!

[jezter101]

gotta find me a new pair of shorts.. peed in my shorts after looking at those pics.. DARN THEY LOOK FINE!!

[VF-19]

What I'd really like to see is how the decals have held up after TWO YEARS (wink wink, nudge nudge) of being on Roy's VF-1S.

I snagged a Miria 1J today for $200 CDN (a little bit cheaper than HLJ! ), and now I'm thinking about getting a waterslide set for her...

[nightmareB4macross]

VF-19 Posted on Apr 21 2005, 10:33 AM

  What I'd really like to see is how the decals have held up after TWO YEARS (wink wink, nudge nudge) of being on Roy's VF-1S.

I snagged a Miria 1J today for $200 CDN (a little bit cheaper than HLJ! ), and now I'm thinking about getting a waterslide set for her... 

Is that like the waterslide set Barbie has?