007-vf1 Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 Here what I been working over the past 2 weeks. Small as they may seem they were a heck of a challenge just like a hasegawa. I realized after I have taken these pics that some decals are missing here and there. -first the mighty VF-5000 G Quote
007-vf1 Posted September 25, 2003 Author Posted September 25, 2003 second my favorite one and the hardest one to built...putting those UUM-7 MMP was rally a pain is the butt. I didn't drill them in so I have to hand hold to the resin peg until the glue would dry on the wing. I am surprised of seeing the under mechanism detailed on the model; I brough it up with a simple oil wash DYRL VF-1A hikaru Quote
007-vf1 Posted September 25, 2003 Author Posted September 25, 2003 (edited) Last one for now and one of my favorites Like all the other models these are panel shaded, oil washed and micron pen detailed...pretty much like Seichi did with his Doyushas ( that was my inspiration) but for some reason the white color reflects too much light and blurs the detail almost completely. Since these kits are always stiff and dull I decided to drill holes on the joints and make them posseable. these are the smalles possible joints I have found on the net that I could accomodate on the elbos.... They are 1/144 Yellow submarine resin kits; about 50% bigger than the Nichimos and about 2/3 smaller than the Hasegawas DYRL VF-1A battroid.. Edited September 25, 2003 by 007-vf1 Quote
CHAVAKAISER Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 men..... you are good!!!! excelent work Quote
wm cheng Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 Hey it looks great - amazing micro works. Maybe you could take a picture along side of something we know the scale of - I know they are small. Keep up the good work, what about the canopy on that Gerwalk - I know its small, but have you thought about cutting thin black decal strips and piecing them together to form the canopy frame, the VF-1 is pretty much straight segments. I love the VF-5000G Quote
vt102 Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 Very nice. I like the weathering and detailing on those small little buggers. I wish I had the tallent and supplies to detail/weather like that. Here is my 1/144 YS VF-X. Quote
vt102 Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 By the way....don't you hate that the wings sag. My fighter has that same problem on one of it's wings. Quote
007-vf1 Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 Thnaks for the compliments guys VT102- I can tell by yours modeling skills that indeed they are as good as mine or better. I just took my models a step further by making it more complex. I used the very same techniques you would on any bigger scale. nothing new that hasn't been already cover on other treads. Whatever people say, an airbrush is a must supply to bring the best of what a kit can offer. W Cheng- thanks for your kind words, The canopy is not the original, somehow I lost it somewhere along all of the dacals( arrgghhh!! ). I used the hasegawa and some of the other macross option decals and the imai 1/144 model canopy I found somewhere to make up. The gerwalk will remain like that until/unless I don't find them later. Twinkie P- that's the resin Yellow Submarine in 1/144 scale Now some scale pics for comparison... first pic, 1/72 hasegawa ostrich and a 1/144 doyusha second pic 1/72 hasegawa battroid Quote
Myersjessee Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Vitja...the 5000 looks amazing! Quote
Gerwalker Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 I love that scale!! Nice models 007-VF-1!! The battroid looks great and the 5000 is gorgeous! I think that the problem you have with the pics not showing the details is that you use flash. Don't use it!! The camera flash tends to flat all detailsm, produce sharp ugly shadows and even make the paint translucent producing some weird effects on scale models. The best light source is the sun (indirect sunlight is the best) but you can use a pair of tungsten lamps close to the model (you will need to correct the hue of the pics later since tungsten lights are yellow, some cameras could do that directly) If you still want to use flash you should deviate it's light so it doesn't illuminate the model directly (there is a lot of on-line articles on how to photograph models) As for the wings sagging: some resins can be make maleable by heating them with hot water or a hair dryer. This way you can bend the parts to it's proper position (don't know if the resin in your models can be treated this way but you can try with spare parts or even the resin chunks the parts are attached on) Quote
007-vf1 Posted September 30, 2003 Author Posted September 30, 2003 Gerwalker- ; Thanks for the tip. I kind of figure that out along some of the pics I took but since I didn't have a sunny day I didn't took more. Then my little brother took the camera with him to an indianpolis car race over the weekend. I'll try the heating method as you suggested. Regarding your question about the 1/144 VF-11c model; I used some 1/72 hasegawa decals and 1/170 imaii old decals (great for the 1/144's), as I have use them on the VF-5000 as well. Thanks MJessee and memphis... Quote
VFX Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 Damn nice work there guy. Your going to make me want to hit my stash of Yellow Sub kits Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.