Panel lining help

[Gabe Q]

I need help! I'm trying to get this panel lining technique down before I attempt it on my other models but I keep making a mess. I've done plenty of searches but I can't seem to find anything that helps.

I'm using an oil paint thinned with odorless mineral spirits. My problem is, the part gets too dirty and doesn't wipe off cleanly. I've got a coat of future over the part and I let the future dry overnight first. Then today I tried to panel line and made a mess. What am I doing wrong?

Here is the part:

[Gabe Q]

Here is the thinner:

Edited April 24, 2005 by Gabe Q

[Gabe Q]

Here is the oil paint:

[HWR MKII]

What is your base paint oil based(testors/humbrol) or acrylic? Some people swear by future but i still think you should have an acrylic base coat. If your base is oil based you may still have problems. If it isnt lifting your paint try wetting a papretowel or Qtip swab in the thinner, not sopping wet just damp, and then wipe it down again. Artists oils are workable even a day or 2 after you wash them in. It also helps to use a minnimum amount. Let the wash flow for you dont just slap it all over. Tap it into a area where alot of details or panel lines meet and let it flow all around them. Keep the wash thin too. If its too thick it wont flow well.

[Gabe Q]

I use Tamiya acrylic paint and Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color for painting. Thanks, I'll try the Q-tip.

[HWR MKII]

Ok then your paint is fine, its the wash that is a little too thick. Dont scrub too hard because you can rub the acrylic off even with a Qtip.

[jadefalconguard]

Try using raw umber instead of Lamp Black. Raw Umber is much lighter and gives you the same effect. Lamp Black is extremely dark and gives a very smudgy effect if some is left on the plane.

Judging at your pic, using raw umber will give you a better look.

[Gabe Q]

Yeah, I was thinking maybe I should go with a lighter color. Thanks.

[Robert S]

I normaly use a the thinner for the oil paints. The mineral spirits may not have enough bite to clean the excess properly. Also make sure you have a good solid acrylic base (Future works great). Also don't put it all over the part just where you need it. When you clean it make sure that you go with the airflow that way you can leave it a little streaky if you want and it will look good.

If you are just interested in doing just the panel lines maybe you should try technical pens. They use ink as opposed to paint and are very easy to use and come in a number of sizes

Hope this helps

[Kurt]

It appears that you are using water soluable oil paints. I have never tried those but I suspect they don't react that same way as normal oil paint. I have had no problems using odorless turpentine. I use Turpenoid or Eco-House, which is a citrus scented turpentine. You may want to buy a tube of regular oil paint.

[Greyryder]

I use water soluble oil paint for my oil washes. I've used it straight from the bottle, and thinned with water. Works out about the same, either way. It leaves a little patina on the paint, but you should be able to wipe it all the way back with a damp paper towel, or Q-tip. Just don't get it too wet, or it'll wash the oil out of the crevases, where you want it to stay.

This was done with an oil wash:

[hirohawa]

If you are applying the future with an airbrush you need to apply two or three coats, before you can apply an oil wash.

Also use the oil thinner in very very small amounts as it can eat through the future. I barely use any when I apply the oils.

[Grayson72]

Nope it's the water soluble oil paints, you need to use real oil paints, the water soluble oil mixed with the future probably removed the thin layer of future you had on there.

It also looks like your mixture was too thick as well, should be as thin as the mineral oil itself.

How long did you let the wash dry?

Edited April 25, 2005 by Grayson72

[bhop]

I agree that the problem is your type of paint. The point of using oil based paints is so it doesn't interact with the acrylic base coat. If you're using a water based wash on a water based base-coat, you're going to have problems.

[Gabe Q]

How long did you let the wash dry?

I let it dry for about an hour first.

[shdwfx2000]

just a question here, citadel<games workshop>, the folks who brought us the warhammer 40k stuffs, makes "inks" that are intended to be used for weathering and bringing out fine details in pewter/plastic figures. anyone tried them on a model of any kind yet?

[jardann]

I have used some of the GW "inks". They work just fine. They seem like just thinned out paint though. i don't know if they formulate them any different, but they work just like thinned paint. You can easily get the same effect by thinning your own regular strength paint. I guess they are a convenience item.

[Mechleader]

I use Acryllic paint. Found at Walmart or Rag Shop for 60 cents.

First future wax. The apply acryllic deluted with some water. Wait for an hour or two. Wipe with clear glass cleaner. Works just as good. No smell no runs. No mess.

See the end result here....

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...topic=13363&hl=

Edited April 27, 2005 by Mechleader

[armentage]

I've been having trouble with my first attempts at washing with Oils...

Can anyone post some info/links to the actual products they use? When I go to the art supply store, there are just so many options to choose from..

I'm using "Odorless Turpenoid" with "Lamp Black" Oils (not water soluble) on top of a future base. What ends up happening is that my lines do not get filled in (at all) and on ligher colors, the surrounding plastic is somewhat stained by the dark wash.

I need to get a camera and post some shots...

[Gabe Q]

When I go to the art supply store, there are just so many options to choose from..

That's where I ran into trouble, too. I went to Michael's and they have a huge selection of stuff. I didn't know what to get.