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Posted

I bought a elint seeker recast and wanted to know what the best 1/55 is to get for it, pretty much a color choice i guess a VF-1A brownie?

Posted

jetfire and the super o' come closest to the original seeker body as it has a blunted nose. If you are going to be painting it to look like an original you might as well score an inexpensive mechanically sound jetfire as yellowing won't matter since your painting it.

on the other hand I did like how my seeker set looked dry mounted on the brownie. Ican take pics of a couple side by side with a real seeker if you want. Keep in mind I have a real seeker, but only rob's armor.

Posted
jetfire and the super o' come closest to the original seeker body as it has a blunted nose. If you are going to be painting it to look like an original you might as well score an inexpensive mechanically sound jetfire as yellowing won't matter since your painting it.

on the other hand I did like how my seeker set looked dry mounted on the brownie. Ican take pics of a couple side by side with a real seeker if you want. Keep in mind I have a real seeker, but only rob's armor.

I totally forgot that it has the blunted nose, i needs a jetfire,,, anyone got one?

thanks Katana

Posted

mechanically sound and in need of a paint job... I can probably help you out. Did you score the conversion kit or just the armor? I'm putting in my smooth-on order this week and will probably be experimenting while I try and track down a boxed seeker, so if you need the head/wings/cockpit let me know. ;)

Posted
mechanically sound and in need of a paint job... I can probably help you out. Did you score the conversion kit or just the armor? I'm putting in my smooth-on order this week and will probably be experimenting while I try and track down a boxed seeker, so if you need the head/wings/cockpit let me know. ;)

I got the conversion kit, I'm definatly interested in what ya got, yeah, i want to do a full paintjob and make it look factory, no panel lining or shading.

thanks

Posted

Speaking from experience, I recommend the Hikaru VF-1J reissue.

1.) they are relatively easy to find and inexpensive.

2.) with a reissue you are guaranteed to get a brand new Bandai, and the reissues have some upgrades.

3.) the grayish color of the Hikaru VF-1J is the closest to the gray color used on the Elintseeker.

Whenever possible, never use a white valkyrie to make a transforming gray valkyrie. Every time the paint gets chipped, you will see white underneath. The same goes for the VF-1A CF.

You can actually keep the stock Hikaru VF-1J color, by carefully removing the chest stripe/etc., and then you will only have to paint the nosecone yellow, and the resin wings/head to match the gray of the Hikaru. Don't use sandpaper to remove the undesired paint, because it will leave scratches. There are several "chemicals" available which will remove paint and not damage the plastic underneath. Just use the chemicals in moderation, and don't let the plastic parts soak in the paint remover.

By keeping the stock plastic, you'll never have to worry about paint damage, and all of the other work that goes along with a full blown repaint.

Posted

I totally agree with ChristopherB. Also, speaking from experience, a very effective paint remover is called Scalecoat. This media is spefically designed to remove paint from any plastic of resin parts without consequences. The paint that needs removal does not require soaking of parts. It is very easy to use and can be done by just swabbing Scalecoat over the paint to be removed and after a few minutes just wipe the paint away.

A VF-1J Reisssue is the most recommendable walk to use as it required only removal of the red paint that destiguishes to be a 1J. The other marking can be left alone and will give you a much cleaner and more orginal look to your custom.

With regards to the resin items, all parts must be cleaned, sanded, filled, sanded, primed (this is my method of choice), as it helps to remove imperfections from the recasted items. You can use a paint from Krylon (Smoothest Finish) grey to completely match the original color of the VF-1J plastic.

I have posted several pictures of a VF-1A low vis that has this technique applied to it. Mind youm this was the first time I used Scalecoat and Krylon Smoothest Finish Paint, with exemplary results. Search for the thread the pictures are rather large but you'll get the picture.

NOTE: You will note that the metal parts are the only painted items, while the blue parts are actually dyed (Plastikote, Shale Blue).

Good Luck on your custom, and have a blast doing it. Don't forget to post pics of your progress.

Late',

NB4M

;)

Posted

thanks for all the replies,

whould a jetfire nose "bolt up"to a reissue? (to get the correct stubby look)

Posted (edited)
whould a jetfire nose "bolt up"to a reissue? (to get the correct stubby look)

It would bolt up without a hitch, but then that would mean a total repaint of he nosecone and the entire valkyrie itself (so the color would be consistent throughout).

As previously suggested, just paint the nosecone of the VF-1J resissue.

****Always remember less paint mean less paint chips.

;)

Edited by nightmareB4macross

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