HWR MKII Posted May 25, 2005 Posted May 25, 2005 Next project on my list after the ARC and Myersjessee Viper will be a back dated 20 year younger Milennium Falcon.
johnybgood18 Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 Interesting thread.... I have... Nitto 1/24 P.K.A Ausf H0 (75% comp) Nitto 1/24 Prowler (15% comp) Hase 1/72 SV51 Nora type (50% comp) Hase 1/72 VE-1 (5% comp) Trtumpeter 1/35 Type98 (25% comp) et too many more too list here... I really shoul;d get back to model building... See you guys! :-)
Grayson72 Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 Well now that I've completed the battroid kitbash and the Ghost x-9 this weekend I started some new projects. 1/72 VF-1D variable with add-on armor 10% 1/72 SV-51 Ivanov 5% 1/32 F-14 50% (on hold, those PE parts are a pain in the ass)
wm cheng Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 Hey Grayson, I'd love to see your progress on the F-14!
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 Hiya WM, here's a few shots of some of the PE areas.
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Here's another shot of the cockpit, this was done with Eduard PE sets and then I cut up the Tamiya instrumentation decals and individually applied the ones that matched the PE, the others are hand painted, I'd say it was 75%/25% decals/painted. Edited June 1, 2005 by Grayson72
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Here's the forward fuselage, the fit from it to the main fuselage was horrible. Probably because when they updated this kit they kept the old main part and created a new forward part. Almost a 16th of an inch higher and 16th of an inch gap. I had to sand and fill and sand and fill. I still don't think it's perfect but It might have to do at this point. Edited June 2, 2005 by Grayson72
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 Here's some shots of some grill covers on the underside of the fuselage. I had to cut away the molded ones and super glue the new ones on. The super glue really didn't seem to adhere as well as I'd expect it to.
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 Here's another shot of some other ones at the rear of the aircraft.
HWR MKII Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Those grills look like the chaff/flare mods. The F-15 has them in a similar place. The cockpit work on that is amazing. Im extremely impressed. MORE PLEASE. I know the 2 "grills" on the underside of the tail nub are chaff/flare the mods hold 30 chaff or flare each. to make it look real good the flare usually has a little red cap in each stick. try to use a drop of paint on each hole to replicate the cap. I know they are small but you never know right now the mods look empty. Edited June 1, 2005 by HWR MKII
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 Thanks HWR, good to know here's a pic of the forward landing gear bay, nice placement of the ejector pins huh?
Grayson72 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Here's a reference shot just to make this an official Macross thread, big ain't she? Edited June 1, 2005 by Grayson72
VF-19 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 I'm working on a small 1:72nd Academy F-86. Converting it (or so I think) to a RCAF Saber. Just want something simple to do inbetween other things to do.
Ranger565 Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Hey think jesse will appreciate this. Kind of put my macross stuff on hold, so I have been working on other things My OS2U-3 Kingfisher Abord USS Pennsylvania 1943 I have a LONG way to go yet on this plane. Wish I had time to work on it everyday I am a big fan of USN WW II Planes I am not sure wich I am working on next Want to help me decide? F4U-1 Corsair TBM Avenger <---- think it will be this one! SBD Dauntless TBD Devistator SB2C Helldiver SB2U-3 Vindicator- accurate minatures new kit Ranger565 Edited June 1, 2005 by Ranger565
Less than Super Ostrich Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 (edited) Grayson, Are those pre-colored PE? Or did you paint those? Either way they look great!!! I'm working on this figure right now for a diorama I'm doing. (P.S. this is not my picture) Edited June 1, 2005 by Less than Super Ostrich
Mule Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 Well, now that the lightsaber is out of the way, I've been working on some Warhammer 40k figures. I'm not a figure gamer, I just really like Games Workshop's models. I've never done figures before, so this will be a good learning experience.
armentage Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 What's a "PE" area? Photo-etched? I hate to ask such a newbish question, but what exactly does photo-etched mean?
Less than Super Ostrich Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 What's a "PE" area?Photo-etched? I hate to ask such a newbish question, but what exactly does photo-etched mean? PE or photo-etch is the bane of my existence. Actually it is very finely detailed metal parts that provide subtle details for very small parts (primarily because resin isn't strong enough or exact enough to produce these small details. Often times you have to bend the part to fit the area. My problem with them is that they often spring out of my hand and I lose them. Also glueing them is a pain since they are so small and need to be attached with Super Glue. Imagine holding one of these small pieces in a tweezer, applying the Super Glue and having the tweezers stuck together with the PE stuck there too... or it won't get off the tweezer when you are trying to apply the PE. It's horrible. Does anyone have a better way of applying PE?
HWR MKII Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 I usuallu use a small dot of model glue to "tack"the PE in place then i take a toothpick with CA on it and let the glue run between the PE part and the model. After the model glue dries it holds the part in place well enough to allow me to put the CA (super glue) on without it sticking to fingers or tweezers.
wm cheng Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 Thanks so much Grayson - please keep posting, I'm really interested. I love the F-14. Which kit was yours again? It looks exactly like my 1/72 Hasegawa - but is your's 1/32? I'd like to do all this - but in 1/72 scale! But there's so much more aftermarket resin stuff for 1/48 and 1/32 - you could get a wheel well aftermarket kit if the pins bother you - or just add wiring over top of them. LTSO - yes PE parts are a pain@! but they look so good when you get them right. The worst is gluing canopy lugs to clear parts, if you're not careful, the crazy glue hazes the clear canopy - I know there are special crazy glues that will not craze the clear part - but I have yet to try them.
Less than Super Ostrich Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 I usuallu use a small dot of model glue to "tack"the PE in place then i take a toothpick with CA on it and let the glue run between the PE part and the model. After the model glue dries it holds the part in place well enough to allow me to put the CA (super glue) on without it sticking to fingers or tweezers. That is excellent advice. SOunds like it takes major time. I often get too anxious when I'm modeling at midnight... the only time my family lets me have my alone time. Coffee is my friend.
Grayson72 Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 I'll have to try the tacking in place trick, so you let the model glue dry before you try to add the CA? What kind of model glue? the really fluid stuff or the gooey testor's orange stuff? How long do you give the glue to dry? I didn't call it out earlier but the shot of the forward wheel well bay has a PE part dead center of the pic, it's the triangular piece in the middle. I had to bend three sides of it. I bought this really great PE bender, I can't imagine doing the PE stuff without it. WM - the F-14 is the Tamiya 1/32 kit.
HWR MKII Posted June 2, 2005 Posted June 2, 2005 If you use a small enough dot it will be dry really quickly withing 5 minutes or so. I use the tube stuff from testors. Liquid cement is good but sometimes tube glue is still the way to go. The part will still fall off if you arent careful applying the ca since the PE parts wont bond to plastic or resin with it but it provides enough of a bond to hold it there while you get the CA onto a toothpick. I mainly use this method on the really small bits. The larger PE parts usually have enough room to apply in the normal method.
HWR MKII Posted June 5, 2005 Posted June 5, 2005 Well Shes done. Introducing the Colonial Viper MKI. Studio scale model cast by Myersjessee.
HWR MKII Posted June 5, 2005 Posted June 5, 2005 Look at the sharpness and depth Jessee has achieved in his casting. Bravo! . I dont know if he is still offering this kit in his lineup but if he is i highly reccommend it.
Mechleader Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 NICE VIPER! Here is mine...and it's Macross!!!! Lol. Hase Strike and Gerwalk.
HWR MKII Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 Nice work. I like how sharp you kept the panel lines on those.
promethuem5 Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 I have since finished these, but these pics are from a few days ago... And yes I know, the pics suck... Ben
Druna Skass Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 Along with the PG Wing 0 I have, I've also got an F-15S/MTD in the works. Took an old Hornet and F-15C kit that I built when I was a kid, cannibalized the Hornet for the rear horizontal stablizers and fixed them onto the F-15C. I'm not hardcore like a lot of you guys here so it'll still have the round nozzels and look like the AF Delta Strike version instead of the Ace Combat version. Going to repaint it and slap on some ISAF markings.
Grayson72 Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 Along with the PG Wing 0 I have, I've also got an F-15S/MTD in the works. Took an old Hornet and F-15C kit that I built when I was a kid, cannibalized the Hornet for the rear horizontal stablizers and fixed them onto the F-15C. I'm not hardcore like a lot of you guys here so it'll still have the round nozzels and look like the AF Delta Strike version instead of the Ace Combat version. Going to repaint it and slap on some ISAF markings. I'm sorry we only allow hardcore here
Mechleader Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 Thanks. I use a future and then an acryllic paint. Let it dry and then wipe with glass cleaner. the Strike is done. I will post pics of both when I finish the Gerwalk. I only used two kits for that one The Hase Batt and the Super kits.
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