Muzaffar Posted November 30, 2011 Posted November 30, 2011 Oh, I see. Well that sucks cause I really liked that tint. Oh well, Thanks y'all.
Graham Posted December 11, 2011 Posted December 11, 2011 CATASTROPHIC FAILURE OF VF-0A I have a first issue VF-0A Cannon Fodder that has been on display in my display cabinet in Gerwalk mode since it was first released. It's probably only been transformed 2-3 times before it went on permanent display and has not been touched in several years. The other day, I noticed that it was no longer standing properly and the nose was touching the shelf of the cabinet. I picked up the toy, to attempt to get it standing properly and the left leg suddenly sheared off at the knee joint. Upon closer examination, I noticed the right knee joint was also cracked almost all the way through. I also found that both the plastic "U" clips that hold the metal hip bar had also sheared off while just standing on display in Gerwalk mode. Anyway, see attached pics. Graham
eugimon Posted December 11, 2011 Posted December 11, 2011 yeah... I just had one of my "replacement" arms fall apart at the elbow. POS
MacrossJunkie Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 Wow. I don't understand how these things are just flat out disintegrating. It's not even like it's under a whole lot of stress. I found one of the "U" clips on my 1/48 Milia VF-1J had also sheared off just like Graham's so I'm not sure if we should expect more failures like that over time or not.
Chronocidal Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) Yep, can't say I'm at all surprised. Each of the pieces Graham mentioned were made using the same plastic that was used for the arms, which we all know tends to explode. I got a first issue 0A, and I SOAKED both entire knee joints in superglue. All sections. Then I added a coat to the hip bar clips for good measure. When I got it, the knees were covered in spiderwebs of stress fractures starting to form. You can see the same types of cracks further up the knee joint in that picture. Those were all over both knees on mine. I saw them from the outside, and then opened them up to soak everything in glue. That plastic was BAD. I think it got better with later releases, but something in that batch of releases just did not work. Edited December 12, 2011 by Chronocidal
Ignacio Ocamica Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 Very bad choice of plastic. Extremely brittle. Checked my two VF-0A's and my VF-0S and they're all fine. Time will tel if they'll suffer the same fate
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 Wow. I don't understand how these things are just flat out disintegrating. It's not even like it's under a whole lot of stress. I found one of the "U" clips on my 1/48 Milia VF-1J had also sheared off just like Graham's so I'm not sure if we should expect more failures like that over time or not. 1st I've heard on the 1/48 man....that sucks!
Luclin999 Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 1st I've heard on the 1/48 man....that sucks! I've had my 1/48th VF-1A on display untouched for years (only transformed once to put it into battroid mode for display) and last year I went to move it on the shelf and noticed a large crack in the leg coming off of the connector pin. That was the last straw for me with Yamato. I am -not- spending hundreds of dollars on these things just so that they can deteriorate like that in five years or less while just sitting on display (in a quiet corner, undisturbed away from sunlight or any UV source). After that, my money has gone into collecting the vintage 1/55th toys. At least they don't just start falling apart over time.
anime52k8 Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) After that, my money has gone into collecting the vintage 1/55th toys. At least they don't just start falling apart over time. have you considered collecting these? They look just as good and are as fun to play with as those 1/55's but they're a heck of a lot cheaper. Edited December 15, 2011 by anime52k8
Ignacio Ocamica Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 have you considered collecting these? They look just as good and are as fun to play with as those 1/55's but they're a heck of a lot cheaper. Hahahaha!!! You're mean, but the comparison is very funny
DyNo Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 My new DX vf-25 has a problem with the left foot not wanting to lock in to place It just slides up and down freely.
Luclin999 Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) have you considered collecting these? They look just as good and are as fun to play with as those 1/55's but they're a heck of a lot cheaper. Have you considered collecting piles of broken plastic? Because that is what Yamato Valks seem to deteriorate into after a few years. Seriously though.. Paying hundreds of dollars for what amounts to pre-assembled model kits that all seem destined to have one or more pieces of bad plastic in them is just ridiculous. Edited December 15, 2011 by Luclin999
valhary Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 I just spent the same but with my escaflowne I was cleaning and the knee joint are disintegrated so add to the list of the bad plastic of yamato toys
eugimon Posted December 16, 2011 Posted December 16, 2011 Don't forget they also give you cancer, hide socks and track in mud after you vacuum
Ghostkiller Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) On the VF-0A, I have exactly the same problems that Graham has pointed this toy is self destructing itself (the shoulder was not the only part concerned) basically, all the dark grey plastic used is bad my worst toy ever.... It was on display in gerwalk mode for ages and now that I have it in my hand, a question comes into my mind : what did I like with this toy .... Edited December 17, 2011 by Ghostkiller
boyarque Posted December 26, 2011 Posted December 26, 2011 this only happened to the first batch of VF-0A right?
Matrix Soul Posted January 9, 2012 Posted January 9, 2012 (edited) Friggin' poop on a stick, transformed my 1/60 V2 VF-1D tonight and noticed a cracked shoulder hinge, does anyone have a spare? Would really appreciate it. Edited January 9, 2012 by Matrix Soul
boyarque Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 Hi all, just a quick question: My YF-29 Durandal was kept in a box in battroid mode for a while, and when I took it out recently to display, I noticed one of the antennas is crooked/canted to one side. Any tips on how to straighten out the antenna? Thanks in advance.
GU-11 Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 Hi all, just a quick question: My YF-29 Durandal was kept in a box in battroid mode for a while, and when I took it out recently to display, I noticed one of the antennas is crooked/canted to one side. Any tips on how to straighten out the antenna? Thanks in advance. I'm assuming it;s made of soft rubber like the Ver.1 VF-25's. Some people recommend heating the affected part up with either a hair dryer or hot [NOT boiling] water before straightening it, and allowing it to set until cool. I've no idea how effective method this is, but there are the only two I've heard of. Hope this helps. I'm assuming it;s made of soft rubber like the Ver.1 VF-25's. Some people recommend heating the affected part up with either a hair dryer or hot [NOT boiling] water before straightening it, and allowing it to set until cool. I've no idea how effective method this is, but these are the only two I've heard of. Hope this helps.
blackconvoy_D01 Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 Hi, Like an idiot, I've lost the stable legs to my VF-0S Ghost. Can anyone help me by telling me where can I obtain replacements? Or sell me replacements?
moose Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 Hey guys looking to get in to the 1/60 line I am interested in this 1/60 VF 1J http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00197. Does this have any know issues shoulders, or crotch problems Thanks in advance
usagiz Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 Hey guys looking to get in to the 1/60 line I am interested in this 1/60 VF 1J http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00197. Does this have any know issues shoulders, or crotch problems Thanks in advance I got this one for Christmas, its ALL good, updated shoulder hinges, leg locking, clear canopy!
moose Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 I got this one for Christmas, its ALL good, updated shoulder hinges, leg locking, clear canopy! sounds good will look to get it, hope HLJ has some massive macross sale soon!
SkyfireWho Posted February 1, 2012 Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) hey everyone- new to collecting, new to this forum, seems like a really cool forum so far and ppl have been real helpful in regards to my first post. one thing im noticing is a strong bias for the Yamato models (as opposed to the Bandai's). what is the main gripe against Bandai's? not defending one way or another, just hope to get some insight on how to position myself for future purchases thanks! Edited February 1, 2012 by SkyfireWho
BlueMax Posted February 2, 2012 Posted February 2, 2012 Hi, Skyfirewho, welcome to the The world of Macross collecting (your wife/ GF and wallet are going to hate you for it) Main gripes against Bandai is the perception that they are not as committed to the Macross franchise even though they have the technical ability to make really nice products. This was especially so before maybe before or around the start of 2011. Since then they have given us pretty nice stuff. However, Yamato has been committed to the Macross franchise since like more than 12 years ago and they have given fans the most complete and aesthetically pleasing collection of 1/60 valkyries and mecha across the various Macross series/ OVAs, sans Macross Frontier, which is of course the domain of Bandai. Also one very big gripe against Bandai is the fact that they like to have "exclusives", as compared to Yamato stuff which are generally released for retail, with a few exceptions. This means, for collectors outside of Japan, paying much higher prices than the original listed prices, which are by no means cheap in the 1st place, and an extra layer of difficulty in gettinmg these exclusive products, in say getting a third party to buy it in japan and paying the 3rd party fees on top of whatever costs. Latest case in point: VF-25 (F and S) Super packs and Armor packs. All of which are exclusives, compared to Yamato's Super Packs and GBP-1 armors, all of which have been mass released or at least easily available. Also, we have an insider to Yamato in the form of Graham (As in "Shawn and Graham's Macross World"), who gives regular feedback and suggestions to Yamato. So these are partly the reasons why people are probably more partial to Yamato compared to Bandai. However, of course consumer loyalty is fleeting and we will support whoever listens to fans and comes up with outstanding products at affordable prices.
SkyfireWho Posted February 2, 2012 Posted February 2, 2012 thanks Blue! much thanks for the breakdown on the Yamatos vs Bandais with everything said, i'll probably focusing (if my funds allow it ) on Yamatos because of how they seem more closer in proportion/aesthetics to the series since i wanted my next purchase to be for something I can have on my desk at work, I'll probably get a Bandai 'chunky monkey' because i know my coworkers will be handling/transforming (and hopefully not breaking) it hmm... potential of having someone break it has me thinking twice. maybe go cheap and get one of those Toynami models Hi, Skyfirewho, welcome to the The world of Macross collecting (your wife/ GF and wallet are going to hate you for it) Main gripes against Bandai is the perception that they are not as committed to the Macross franchise even though they have the technical ability to make really nice products. This was especially so before maybe before or around the start of 2011. Since then they have given us pretty nice stuff. However, Yamato has been committed to the Macross franchise since like more than 12 years ago and they have given fans the most complete and aesthetically pleasing collection of 1/60 valkyries and mecha across the various Macross series/ OVAs, sans Macross Frontier, which is of course the domain of Bandai. Also one very big gripe against Bandai is the fact that they like to have "exclusives", as compared to Yamato stuff which are generally released for retail, with a few exceptions. This means, for collectors outside of Japan, paying much higher prices than the original listed prices, which are by no means cheap in the 1st place, and an extra layer of difficulty in gettinmg these exclusive products, in say getting a third party to buy it in japan and paying the 3rd party fees on top of whatever costs. Latest case in point: VF-25 (F and S) Super packs and Armor packs. All of which are exclusives, compared to Yamato's Super Packs and GBP-1 armors, all of which have been mass released or at least easily available. Also, we have an insider to Yamato in the form of Graham (As in "Shawn and Graham's Macross World"), who gives regular feedback and suggestions to Yamato. So these are partly the reasons why people are probably more partial to Yamato compared to Bandai. However, of course consumer loyalty is fleeting and we will support whoever listens to fans and comes up with outstanding products at affordable prices.
Shaorin Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Hey guys looking to get in to the 1/60 line I am interested in this 1/60 VF 1J http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00197. Does this have any know issues shoulders, or crotch problems Thanks in advance i'll probably be getting the 1/60 FOCKER 1S available there sometime in 2012...
Macross_Fanboy Posted February 5, 2012 Posted February 5, 2012 Ok, now for another VF-0 gripe, this one has to do with my VF-0S though, when I initially got this re-release in 2010 as a reward for my harrowing life or death experience, I attempted one transformation. I couldn't get it because of the swing bar, so I just said eff it and put it back in fighter mode. Now, I want to change up my M0 display and the bar cannot go in no matter how hard I try. It isn't a hard thing to do at all because my CF-0 is lying in a heap in Battroid mode with Nora readying the execution. Anybody else experiencing some kind of warped swing bar? It's a damn shame I live in the States now so I can't send it back to Yamato and sick my wife on them.
mr.chogokin Posted February 5, 2012 Posted February 5, 2012 The vf0s has been known to have very tight plastic pincer grips. Just use a bit more strength to yank the swing bar away and sand the pincers down.
Macross_Fanboy Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 The vf0s has been known to have very tight plastic pincer grips. Just use a bit more strength to yank the swing bar away and sand the pincers down. No. I took a look at my CF-0A once more and I discovered this!! See? Now look at these last two: See how the number should be facing away from the backplate clamp for Battroid mode? Apparently the sweatshop worker was exhausted when he put my particular VF-0S together. I'm trying to get the bar off and flip it, but it seems like it was set in place and then the plastic piece where the third set screw for the torso/fuselage goes is cemented on or something. Any expert modelers have any recommendations on how I should go about this corrective backbone surgery?
mr.chogokin Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 ah, I see. This misassemble is also known on the vf0s. In fact, I made the same fix on my friends copy. All you need is a thin screw driver to push away the pin and everything else will be easy to fix.
Macross_Fanboy Posted February 11, 2012 Posted February 11, 2012 ah, I see. This misassemble is also known on the vf0s. In fact, I made the same fix on my friends copy. All you need is a thin screw driver to push away the pin and everything else will be easy to fix. Where exactly? I got a tiny eye glass frame flat tip and it just seems to be damage the plastic piece where the 3rd set screw goes.
Chronocidal Posted February 11, 2012 Posted February 11, 2012 I remember seeing someone with this problem before, and I'm not sure they were ever able to fix it. The way the swing bar is assembled can make it impossible to get out from what I remember them saying. They just couldn't push the pin out to get the bar detached to flip it around. Taking a look at mine.. you have to remove the three screws holding the backplate on. Looks like you've already done that from your photos. What you need to do is find a way to get the swingbar to pop out of the slot it's in on the back side of the lower back plate. This is where I remember another person giving up, because they could not get that pin to pop out of the place it sits. It's in there good, and you might need to chip away at some of the surrounding plastic to let it free. Then you'd need to push the pin out somehow, pull the swingbar back through the hole, flip it around, re-insert the pin, and then put everything back together. What might be easier to do, but I don't know if it would work... you could just flip around the lower segment of the swing bar. The section of the bar that the hips are attached to is offset a little on that lower pivot point, so flipping that over may be all you need to get it to latch into the nose.
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