Old Man Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 Yeah, I've tried prying it loose with a thin piece of plastic, but it just won't move. I'm waiting to see if the shop I got it from can contact Yamato, and see what they recommend. I have 2 copies of every Yamato V2, and have no problem disloging the intake out (touch wood) without using any tools. You just need to be very careful and angle the intake in and out to pop it off. Once you learn the trick, it works like charm. You can talk to GU-11 and Macross_Fanboy, as they've had the same problems with their recently purchased VF-1Ds. I've had experience with Yamato Valks before, and believe me, this is not a normal issue.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 Yeah, the only reason it's bending inwards at all is because the intake is splitting down the middle. It's as if Yamato glued the intake to the main body. The thing just won't budge. What most likely ended up happening was that the paint on the diecast plate(that the intake pegs peg into) was not completely dry when the factory workers put the VF-1 together and plugged the intake pegs into it. This results in stuck parts, happens a lot on action figures("stuck joints"). This happened to my VF-1A Super Hikaru. With that one I learned to just pull the intake straight down/out of the diecast plate, just a bit. On my Focker 1S and a few of my other V2's, simply moving the lower leg inwards with the legs in gerwalk mode does the trick, as the diecast area is not as tight. This is how it's shown in the manual too.
Old Man Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 What most likely ended up happening was that the paint on the diecast plate(that the intake pegs peg into) was not completely dry when the factory workers put the VF-1 together and plugged the intake pegs into it. This results in stuck parts, happens a lot on action figures("stuck joints"). This happened to my VF-1A Super Hikaru. With that one I learned to just pull the intake straight down/out of the diecast plate, just a bit. On my Focker 1S and a few of my other V2's, simply moving the lower leg inwards with the legs in gerwalk mode does the trick, as the diecast area is not as tight. This is how it's shown in the manual too. I thought that might have been the reason, I just wasn't certain. Thanks for the clarification, Shin Densetsu Kai. How should I go about releasing the part?
Vi-RS Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 I thought that might have been the reason, I just wasn't certain. Thanks for the clarification, Shin Densetsu Kai. How should I go about releasing the part? You might wanna make the leg in Gerwalk mode, then release the chest plate from back plate, pop the chest plate up so you have room to use something to pry the tab undernealth the chest plate.
Froy Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 Last night I was cleaning my valks and decided to transform the YF-19 from figther to battroid and noticed that the right arm was a little lose, tried to tighten the screw but nothing then after releasing the pressure I noticed a huge gap on the upper arm just like if I had loosen the screw, I dismounted it and the joint fell in to pieces. See pics. The thing is that I haven't touched this thing in years !!! Is there any way to get a repleacement arm? in case I can't fix it.
Chronocidal Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 Yeesh.. yep, those first pics are the same place my YF-19's arms failed, straight out of the box. That arm design just sucks. Judging by the texture of that plastic, it's the same explodium as the VF-0's arms, and there is just not enough structure there to hold a screw. What I wound up doing was just gluing the entire upper arm together around the screw. I sincerely hope Yamato remakes the YF-19, it just doesn't hold a candle to any of the recent stuff they have in terms of engineering.
GU-11 Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 I wonder if the scheduled July reissue of the YF-19 will incorporate all the necessary fixes like the DN and BoP? I'm thoroughly satisfied with the DN's build and quality, but I've always wanted the original color as well. Hopefully, this upcoming release will have fixed all the problems. Just in case, I might just wait for a review before clicking on that "Buy This" button.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 (edited) Well, I got back from Hawaii last night and the leg was waiting for me and what did I do? I fudged it away. I put the small fitting that goes around the ball joint on the die cast bar inside the leg first instead of around said ball and then in the leg. I tried to take it out but it was too late so in the end I had to split the intake to get it out and that was not easy at all and left a few gouges on the seam, but it's covered up when in fighter and gerwalk modes. I tried cementing it but the seam was to wide with the few gouges and discolored the paint. The good thing is that it split down the peg perfectly instead of breaking off the one side like at first. So I think this VF-1D is relegated to Fighter mode and I might pick up another, I don't know. I would like to pick up the 1/60 kit and scrap the 1D for parts, namely the nose since I have an idea to make a VFA-102 VF-1 if I can get decals made in 1/60 scale. What happened was my fault this time, I got excited and when I put that fitting in the leg first I realized my error. I've decided against calling Yamato and telling them to send me a new, but next time I need a part, I should ask them for directions for disassembly and assembly as reminders. Edited June 28, 2010 by Macross_Fanboy
GU-11 Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 Well, I got back from Hawaii last night and the leg was waiting for me and what did I do? I fudged it away. I put the small fitting that goes around the ball joint on the die cast bar inside the leg first instead of around said ball and then in the leg. I tried to take it out but it was too late so in the end I had to split the intake to get it out and that was not easy at all and left a few gouges on the seam, but it's covered up when in fighter and gerwalk modes. I tried cementing it but the seam was to wide with the few gouges and discolored the paint. The good thing is that it split down the peg perfectly instead of breaking off the one side like at first. So I think this VF-1D is relegated to Fighter mode and I might pick up another, I don't know. I would like to pick up the 1/60 kit and scrap the 1D for parts, namely the nose since I have an idea to make a VFA-102 VF-1 if I can get decals made in 1/60 scale. What happened was my fault this time, I got excited and when I put that fitting in the leg first I realized my error. I've decided against calling Yamato and telling them to send me a new, but next time I need a part, I should ask them for directions for disassembly and assembly as reminders. Ouch! Sorry to hear about what happened. I'd better pay extra attention when replacing my VF-1D's leg once it arrives.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 Ouch! Sorry to hear about what happened. I'd better pay extra attention when replacing my VF-1D's leg once it arrives. Yeah, I'm pretty disappointed at myself. I guess I'll order another one next month maybe.
m0n5t3r Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 man, this thread has been pretty active lately... i still wait for the day to come when people are gonna post here just one word - "nothing"... ... i'd also like to get a second 1D in the future, but i think i'll wait for a re-issue w/ the new crotch just like the 1J and upcoming 1A re-issues.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted June 28, 2010 Posted June 28, 2010 I thought that might have been the reason, I just wasn't certain. Thanks for the clarification, Shin Densetsu Kai. How should I go about releasing the part? What I did on my Super VF-1A Hikaru and VF-1J Hikaru was pulled the intakes straight down. You actually don't need that much room, it will only go down a few centimeters if any. The culprit isn't so much the narrow tab that plugs into the side, it's the square peg atop the intake that is too tight due to the diecast plate above being painted on the area that the peg plugs into(sorry for the run on sentence).
GU-11 Posted June 29, 2010 Posted June 29, 2010 Yeah, I'm pretty disappointed at myself. I guess I'll order another one next month maybe. Hope you get a good one this time; the -1D's currently out of stock at HLJ, though. BTW, if it's not too much trouble, would you mind posting a tutorial on replacing the leg? I'll definitely benefit from some advice and pointers.
boyarque Posted June 29, 2010 Posted June 29, 2010 Hi guys, I received my VF-1D today...and the leg is tight like my VF-1J and what other members reported. However, no cause for alarm. After squeezing the legs with slight pressure, I noticed the intake would not separate from the die-cast part BY THE TOP stub, and not by the SIDE PEGS.... So what I did was I inserted the sharp end of a stapler remover between the small openings of the intake and the die-cast part, apply light pressure by pushing the tips of the stapler remover against the die-cast part, while simultaneously squeezing the legs ( the valkrie's...not mine )gently...and voila!!! Nothing broken I'm happy to report. Though I noticed the stubs are quite 'disfigured'(for lack of better term), so I suspected either the factory workers forcefully pushed in the legs or maybe it's just a mold degradation... Just my 2 cents...
Chronocidal Posted June 29, 2010 Posted June 29, 2010 That's kind of what I've suspected might be the problem. If the intake molds have degraded, they're going to get sloppy in areas like that tab, and the tabs are going to grow. Even if the metal plate doesn't change, those tabs are going to get bigger and bigger over time, and the tabs will always give way more than that metal plate, which is why they can still manage to mash the tabs into their slots. You had the right idea pressing the tabs down from above the intake plate, that's probably the only way to pop the legs out without snapping off the tabs. The issue is a difference in the direction of force on the tabs.. pushing the intakes upward into the plate is just direct pressure on the tab, but the method of rotating the legs inward to pop those tabs loose puts a twisting and shearing force on the tab, which is much more nasty on the plastic. The only way to ensure they don't get stressed is putting pressure on the tabs from directly above, using some kind of tool to press the pegs out directly through the metal plate.
boyarque Posted June 29, 2010 Posted June 29, 2010 I think you're right on that. And I am thinking of filing the tabs a little bit, just to reduce the tightness and tension, but not too much that it'll be loose in the socket. About the yellowing canopy, I don't think it's because of age, I think it's designed that way. Because when I compared the canopy of my Max's 1A, Roy's Lo-Vi and Hikaru's 1J, they all have varying degree of 'discoloration'...so it might be intended that way. On another note, if like Choronocidal said, there's a mold degradation (my VF-1J experinced same problem), I strongly advise that we all be prudent on future VF-1 releases...meaning be careful when popping off the legs of the valks.
Chronocidal Posted June 30, 2010 Posted June 30, 2010 Well, it's a possibility anyway.. I couldn't say for sure, but it's something that happens over time, and it's more likely than the holes in the metal piece shrinking. As far as filing the tabs down goes though, I wouldn't be too worried about that. The clips already do a decent job of holding the hips in place, and you have the rear tabs helping in fighter mode, so you might only be a little floppy in gerwalk mode. Besides, if the tabs get too small, you can add a little glue to them to build them up again. I know I probably sound like a broken record sometimes touting the usefulness of superglue, but I've used it to fix so many problems I've lost count.
Muzaffar Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) I glad haven't transformed any of my Yamato valks and probably never will. I just Can't stand the thought of breaking something on those expensive things. Edited July 1, 2010 by Muzaffar
Froy Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 I glad haven't transformed any of my Yamato valks and probably never will. I just Can't stand the thought of breaking something on those expensive things. Buy a $100 up transformable toy and not transform it even once!?!? That does not make any sense, at least to me.
Damaramu Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 My VF-1D has been sitting on my desk for about a week in fighter mode, looking pretty. Last night I decided to take the plunge and transform it and..... All is well! I popped off the nose and head and carefully loosened the legs up near the intake. I pulled the legs down into the gerwalk configuration and gently rocked the intakes side to side and when there was a bit of room (I could slide a thin guitar pick in there) I popped the legs off successfully. Looking at the pegs, I noticed no deformities or stress marks. Same with the shoulder joints. I'm not exactly sure what these "knurled" pins are supposed to look like but mine were smooth. The shoulders moved freely with no unusual resistance. They were also stress mark free. I did notice the hip joints seemed a little...looser than normal. Well, looser than the joints on my Hikaru VF-1S. Nothing too bad, it can still hold a pose well with no sagging or what have you. It's definitely not in the realm of 1/60 ver. 1 looseness! I guess I lucked out with this one!
GU-11 Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 My VF-1D has been sitting on my desk for about a week in fighter mode, looking pretty. Last night I decided to take the plunge and transform it and..... All is well! I popped off the nose and head and carefully loosened the legs up near the intake. I pulled the legs down into the gerwalk configuration and gently rocked the intakes side to side and when there was a bit of room (I could slide a thin guitar pick in there) I popped the legs off successfully. Looking at the pegs, I noticed no deformities or stress marks. Same with the shoulder joints. I'm not exactly sure what these "knurled" pins are supposed to look like but mine were smooth. The shoulders moved freely with no unusual resistance. They were also stress mark free. I did notice the hip joints seemed a little...looser than normal. Well, looser than the joints on my Hikaru VF-1S. Nothing too bad, it can still hold a pose well with no sagging or what have you. It's definitely not in the realm of 1/60 ver. 1 looseness! I guess I lucked out with this one! So far so good, no problems with my first few transformations. Guess I lucked out! Glad to hear it! I guess the general rule here is when your VF-1 happens to be unusually tight around the intake pegs, you should try to gently pry the leg loose with something first instead of sticking to the instructions.
boyarque Posted July 2, 2010 Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) Buy a $100 up transformable toy and not transform it even once!?!? That does not make any sense, at least to me. well how's this for tops...a friend in a local private broadcasting station own almost ALL VFs produced....but NEVER knew what they are and what anime they are from.... But I'm getting offtopic here... and GU-11, yes, that's the general idea coz I do not think it happens to vf-1d exclusively... Edited July 2, 2010 by boyarque
Macross_Fanboy Posted July 2, 2010 Posted July 2, 2010 Oh well, I got the note from Yamato with my leg and they said they have encountered considerable reports of the same thing and urged we read the instructions, although I think that one comment is bullshit since I have over 14 of the damned things and this is the first. Oh, and I got no pics so I couldn't show you all how, but I'm sure in the model kits some has a build up guide for it.
maximilian_jenius Posted July 2, 2010 Posted July 2, 2010 Yesterday arrived my quarter. and I notice that the shoulder are very tight, and I'm afraid to brake the shoulder-arm rotation piece, is like a inverted T, if you move the back plate of the shoulder where the guns are, there is a screw. that screw hold together a black little metal piece section main body section and together holds the "inverted T". my question is, this "inverted T" piece is resistant to moving the shoulder between the different modes (carrier and attack mode) or I risk to breaking as the Zero shoulder the back plate on the shoulder is the gray one down the two screw in this pic and if you move that plate you will find the black metal piece.
Muzaffar Posted July 2, 2010 Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) Buy a $100 up transformable toy and not transform it even once!?!? That does not make any sense, at least to me. I like Macross for it's cool plane designs. I am not a model builder and so I buy the toys. I don't really care much for the battroid or gerwalk mode. Edited July 3, 2010 by Muzaffar
GU-11 Posted July 3, 2010 Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) Oh well, I got the note from Yamato with my leg and they said they have encountered considerable reports of the same thing and urged we read the instructions, although I think that one comment is bullshit since I have over 14 of the damned things and this is the first. Oh, and I got no pics so I couldn't show you all how, but I'm sure in the model kits some has a build up guide for it. I agree; all my other VF-1's are fine (touch wood). Some of them might be rather tight around the intake pegs, but they still came off intact without much trouble. I never had to pry at them or attempt any alternative method of transformation--just angled the legs inward and they detached. While I don't want to make any guesses as to what the underlying problem is, the fact that they're chalking it up to user negligence is IMO rather irresponsible. Edited July 3, 2010 by GU-11
Kelsain Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 Hmm, couldn't find the VF-11B thread, otherwise I would've posted there. Finally getting the chance to mess with my 11B last night, I noticed 1 thing less-than-ideal. The printed emblem on the heat-shield is off center! Anyone else ever have this problem? I noticed there was a sticker on the sheet, but I'd have to remove the old one. I might even replace it with something else. Anyone have any ideas how I could remove the painted logo with minimal difficulty/damage? Also, it seems there should be an additional sticker placement diagram in the manual. It doesn't even show where the UN Spacy logos would go! Thanks!
GU-11 Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 Hmm, couldn't find the VF-11B thread, otherwise I would've posted there. Finally getting the chance to mess with my 11B last night, I noticed 1 thing less-than-ideal. The printed emblem on the heat-shield is off center! Anyone else ever have this problem? I noticed there was a sticker on the sheet, but I'd have to remove the old one. I might even replace it with something else. Anyone have any ideas how I could remove the painted logo with minimal difficulty/damage? Also, it seems there should be an additional sticker placement diagram in the manual. It doesn't even show where the UN Spacy logos would go! Thanks! The logo on my VF-11B's off center too.
boyarque Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 hmmm..dunno whether this should be posted here, but I purchased a 1/48 VF-1J Miria type in the past and I noticed the right intake cover was missing, though I wrote it off as QC failure and just let it be....UNTIL, my friend bought a unit of 1/48 VF-1J Max type last week, and discovered the heatshield is missing! Tsk!
Valk009 Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Not sure if this has been discussed already? Anyways, I just noticed that my 1/60 Yamato ver. 2.0 metallic shimmering clear coat on the canopy is cracking. The valk was transformed once into battroid mode and left for display since new a year so back. I just noticed the cracks yeasterday when I transformed it back to fighter mode. So, I guess I will need to somehow remove all the paint, any ideas on the best sway without damaging the canopy?
atreyu2112 Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 The canopy on my VF-1S DYRL Focker has the cracking as well. And my 1J TV Hikaru has shoulder syndrome on BOTH sides! Ug. I sure hope Graham will take another order for parts (crossing fingers).
Vi-RS Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Not sure if this has been discussed already? Anyways, I just noticed that my 1/60 Yamato ver. 2.0 metallic shimmering clear coat on the canopy is cracking. The valk was transformed once into battroid mode and left for display since new a year so back. I just noticed the cracks yeasterday when I transformed it back to fighter mode. So, I guess I will need to somehow remove all the paint, any ideas on the best sway without damaging the canopy? I guess you meant this? It happens.
boyarque Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Finally, I found the time to snap pics of the VF-1D 'issue': if you can see the pics above, the plastic stubs on top of the intake seemed a bit deformed...tiny bits broke off after I managed to remove the legs from the pegs... Upon closer inspection on the metal plates, reveal: ....on the lower edges of the peg hole, I noticed the surface is uneven. At first I thought it was the excess paint, but after trying to scratch it off, found out that it was part of the metal plate itself! Two course of action here, file off the edge or file off the plastic stubs...and since I only have a plastic filer on hand, I filed the edges of the tabs just a teeny bit. And now, I can transform my VF-1D AS PER INSTRUCTION......
Vi-RS Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Finally, I found the time to snap pics of the VF-1D 'issue': if you can see the pics above, the plastic stubs on top of the intake seemed a bit deformed...tiny bits broke off after I managed to remove the legs from the pegs... The peg is still good, not deformed. It just has some worn edges since you pulled it out with force while it was stuck. Mine didn't come out easily as other V2 I have, but I tried couple time by angle the intake couple time to pop it out.
boyarque Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 The peg is still good, not deformed. It just has some worn edges since you pulled it out with force while it was stuck. Mine didn't come out easily as other V2 I have, but I tried couple time by angle the intake couple time to pop it out. yes, deformed, worn or whatever....force HAD to be used, check the pics of the metal plate. And no amount of angling or squeezing or jiggling can pop the intakes out, unless I want to end up with broken pegs like many others. DO NOTE however, after I filed the plastic tabs THEN only I managed to use normal transformation.
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