boyarque Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 Which attachment point are you talking about in the first part above? If it's the rear joint that you disengage for gerwalk (the one where the fast pack or leg snaps underneath the wing), I've always had a tried and true method for doing that without just pulling. Basically, I pull the wings out, and press the tip of a thumb into the small crevice between the fastpack or leg with my fingernail against the leg, and press down gently with my other fingers near the foot. The finger acts like a wedge to disengage the big tab, and it generally pushes the leg down without much trouble at all. thanks for the info! I'll try that next....
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 Well, I called Yamato and whaddya know? They'll send me a whole, brand new leg for my VF-1D free of charge, totally awesome!
GU-11 Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 I don't want to cause any panic attacks for VF-1D owners here, but I just received my VF-1D, and it's got that same intake peg problem as Macross Fanboy's. The difference is that in mine, the leg came off easily without problems, but the peg was broken in the process. On the other hand, I suspect the peg had already been broken at the factory, as it felt almost too easy when I detached the leg. I managed to glue it back with a drop of cyanoacrylate (letting it cure in Battroid mode overnight to maximize bonding strength), but man, right out of the box.... And I thought the shoulder hinges were the only potential flaws on the VF-1 molds.
GU-11 Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 Another update to the VF-1D fiasco. I just noticed that the canopy on mine was yellowed. Just to make sure, I tried looking through it, and sure enough, everything filtered through it was tinted yellow. Even when I first lifted the flap on the box, I noticed the VF-1D had a weird tone of beige, turns out it was UV damage. What, do the factories leave their parts out in the sun to bake? It's official: I just paid good money for old stock with a broken right leg peg. Great, just mother-effing great....
Froy Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 It's official: I just paid good money for old stock with a broken right leg peg. Great, just mother-effing great.... That may explain why the 1D is still on sale after 3 weeks and over a 2nd re-stock.
Vi-RS Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 I don't want to cause any panic attacks for VF-1D owners here, but I just received my VF-1D, and it's got that same intake peg problem as Macross Fanboy's. The difference is that in mine, the leg came off easily without problems, but the peg was broken in the process. On the other hand, I suspect the peg had already been broken at the factory, as it felt almost too easy when I detached the leg. I managed to glue it back with a drop of cyanoacrylate (letting it cure in Battroid mode overnight to maximize bonding strength), but man, right out of the box.... And I thought the shoulder hinges were the only potential flaws on the VF-1 molds. Both my VF-1D from the very first release came out great, the intake is tight but they are fine. There is a way to remove the intake from the torso so that you can release the peg without breaking it. Another update to the VF-1D fiasco. I just noticed that the canopy on mine was yellowed. Just to make sure, I tried looking through it, and sure enough, everything filtered through it was tinted yellow. Even when I first lifted the flap on the box, I noticed the VF-1D had a weird tone of beige, turns out it was UV damage. What, do the factories leave their parts out in the sun to bake? It's official: I just paid good money for old stock with a broken right leg peg. Great, just mother-effing great.... The VF-1D is in orange tan color like the VT-1 compared with other valkyries which is off white and white. That may explain why the 1D is still on sale after 3 weeks and over a 2nd re-stock. So you are making conclusion that HLJ still has them because these VF-1D have broken peg? That is hilarious assumption and conclusion.
GU-11 Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 (edited) Both my VF-1D from the very first release came out great, the intake is tight but they are fine. There is a way to remove the intake from the torso so that you can release the peg without breaking it. I followed the instructions exactly, by angling the leg inwards to release it. After hearing what happened to Macross Fanboy's VF-1D, I was extremely careful during that part of the transformation, but the damn peg broke on me...twice. No matter how you look at it, it was a defective leg peg, since the other leg stayed perfectly intact each time I transformed it. Unless there's another (better) way to detach the leg, it seems pretty obvious that Yamato's got batch of bad leg pegs. The VF-1D is in orange tan color like the VT-1 compared with other valkyries which is off white and white. I realize that the VF-1D and VT-1 both have an orange-and-beige color scheme; it'd just that my -1D's tone of it looked "wrong" somehow. It just looks "jaundiced", for lack of a better term. While I'd really like to say that it was just my eyes playing tricks on me, it doesn't explain the yellowed canopy. Edited June 24, 2010 by GU-11
Muzaffar Posted June 24, 2010 Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) just got the re-issue VF-0S, still floppy like before but alas, it's great valk btw, does anyone here suffered center breakage for Yamato YF-19 1/60 scale? got mine just now... Does your have the same intake gap/not fitting into the fuselage problem I have? http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=33217&view=findpost&p=856138 Edited June 24, 2010 by Muzaffar
Muzaffar Posted June 24, 2010 Posted June 24, 2010 imagine the utter shock that i got when the right thigh of my sv 51 nora exploded the very few times i transformed it frm fighter mode.it gave an extremely loud bam when i bend the knees to gerwalk form without first extending it out which i forgot.the front thigh piece flew off, along with the lower leg which crashed down to earth in a heap.i gathered up whatever senses that was left and immediately set to super glue(a generous amount in fact) the broken parts back.shock number two came when my dad came to me three days later to ask me whether this small piece of metal rod belongs to one of my toys.this time i went a little CRAZY when i went to unscrew the other leg and found it had a similar piece of metal rod. well what the heck lol.hope every sv 51 owners can learn from this nightmare of mine This is why you don't transform Yamato valks. You're suppose to love Macross for it's cool plane designs, not the robot modes.
Muzaffar Posted June 24, 2010 Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Well.. one problem with the YF-19 in general is that they used a ton of glue to hold it together. Short of prying the entire shoulder assemblies apart, there's nothing you can really do to tighten them up. Mine are too floppy to hold their own weight up, let alone a gunpod. Frankly... I've kinda come to terms with the YF-19... or maybe just given up. I didn't pay nearly full price for it, so I don't mind too much. But I can't see myself spending any more money on that mold. Compared with Yamato's more recent work, it's just an incredibly flawed design. I got got my DN yesterday and it's nice and tight but the only annoying problem I saw were the gaps around the intake area which connect to the fuselage. Other than that, it's solid. Oh, and to keep it nice and tight I am never gonna transform it. And I totally agree that it's a flawed design. Edited June 24, 2010 by Muzaffar
Froy Posted June 24, 2010 Posted June 24, 2010 Ok I'm offcially in PANIC! Just got my new 1D tried to change to battroid mode but the pegs over and on the inner side of the intakes do not want to cooperate, they just don't pop-out from their holes. Any solutions before I destroy them using brute force?
Muzaffar Posted June 24, 2010 Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Here are the gaps that I was talking about on my YF-19 DN. Is there any way to fix em? I really hate this "bulk chin" under the fuselage. This is why it's a flawed design. Edited June 24, 2010 by Muzaffar
GU-11 Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 Ok I'm offcially in PANIC! Just got my new 1D tried to change to battroid mode but the pegs over and on the inner side of the intakes do not want to cooperate, they just don't pop-out from their holes. Any solutions before I destroy them using brute force? You might want to try gently prying with something flat and sturdy (like a thin ruler) at the leg to loosen up the peg, before wiggling it off. In my case, the damn peg just broke off at the slightest pressure. If you ask me, all this broken peg business could be either the result of mishandling at the factory, or the pegs themselves are simply too thick for the die-cast inserts. Or a combination of both. If and when you do manage to get the pegs off (safely, I hope), Shin Densetsu Kai gave me this piece of advice: file/sand off the paint on the "inside" sides of the die-cast insert which the peg goes into. The lack of paint should ease some of the tension. Here are the gaps that I was talking about on my YF-19 DN. Is there any way to fix em? I really hate this "bulk chin" under the fuselage. This is why it's a flawed design. I own a YF-19 DN myself, and as far as I know, there isn't much you can do about the gap there. As for the "bulk chin", yeah, it's kind of unsightly but as far as modern toy engineering goes, this is as good as it gets for now. I got got my DN yesterday and it's nice and tight but the only annoying problem I saw were the gaps around the intake area which connect to the fuselage. Other than that, it's solid. Oh, and to keep it nice and tight I am never gonna transform it. And I totally agree that it's a flawed design. Man, I keep reading post after post about floppy arms even in the reissued original color YF-19's. To think I actually planned to buy one myself this Christmas. I guess I'd better stick with my trusty DN, and save the money for that TV Kakizaki reissue.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 I have two YF-19s, original M+ scheme and a DN and as far as I can tell, the DN is nice and tight and I didn't notice any annoying gaps in it when I first got it and it transforms and holds poses like a dream, I'm thinking of buying the re-issue coming out soon. The thing I like the most about the 19 is the ease of it's transformation unlike the YF-21/VF-22. Hopefully when I get home on Sunday my leg for my VF-1D has arrived.
GU-11 Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 I have two YF-19s, original M+ scheme and a DN and as far as I can tell, the DN is nice and tight and I didn't notice any annoying gaps in it when I first got it and it transforms and holds poses like a dream, I'm thinking of buying the re-issue coming out soon. The thing I like the most about the 19 is the ease of it's transformation unlike the YF-21/VF-22. Hopefully when I get home on Sunday my leg for my VF-1D has arrived. MF, please do tell me how that replacement leg holds up. I emailed HLJ last night regarding the VF-1D's busted leg, and they should probably reply within the next two days. BTW, which leg on your VF-1D was busted? It was the right one on my -1D.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 MF, please do tell me how that replacement leg holds up. I emailed HLJ last night regarding the VF-1D's busted leg, and they should probably reply within the next two days. BTW, which leg on your VF-1D was busted? It was the right one on my -1D. I think it may have arrived already, I'll be back home on Sunday since I'm in Hawaii right now. It was the right leg that was busted on mine. To take it off you pretty much have to take off all of the screws and dismantle it.
GU-11 Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 I think it may have arrived already, I'll be back home on Sunday since I'm in Hawaii right now. It was the right leg that was busted on mine. To take it off you pretty much have to take off all of the screws and dismantle it. Wait--what? I have to unscrew the whole leg to dismantle it? Uh oh. Please tell me there's a tutorial somewhere here I could follow. Hate to leave some spring or metal rod out that might be crucial to the leg when I put it back together.
Froy Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 You might want to try gently prying with something flat and sturdy (like a thin ruler) at the leg to loosen up the peg, before wiggling it off. In my case, the damn peg just broke off at the slightest pressure. If you ask me, all this broken peg business could be either the result of mishandling at the factory, or the pegs themselves are simply too thick for the die-cast inserts. Or a combination of both. If and when you do manage to get the pegs off (safely, I hope), Shin Densetsu Kai gave me this piece of advice: file/sand off the paint on the "inside" sides of the die-cast insert which the peg goes into. The lack of paint should ease some of the tension. Fixed! But to prevent future paint chips, I sanded the pegs to round the corners a little bit. No problems in fighter mode!
Foblander Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 (edited) Hmm both my V2 VF-1S Roy's shoulder hinges finally broke. Very sad now I haven't been on here a long time but is yamato or anyone offering updated hinges for sale so I can swap them out? Also how are the updated VF-1S V2's with the updated hinge. Any breakages reported yet? Thanks any help would be appreciated! Edited June 25, 2010 by Foblander
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 Wait--what? I have to unscrew the whole leg to dismantle it? Uh oh. Please tell me there's a tutorial somewhere here I could follow. Hate to leave some spring or metal rod out that might be crucial to the leg when I put it back together. It's actually a lot simpler on the inside than you would think. Don't worry.
GU-11 Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Fixed! But to prevent future paint chips, I sanded the pegs to round the corners a little bit. No problems in fighter mode! Glad to hear it! I'll have to get around to doing the same after the -1D's replacement leg arrives. It's actually a lot simpler on the inside than you would think. Don't worry. Thanks for the heads-up, man. I was getting kind of worried about dismantling the whole leg. Sorry for being "thick", but when you said to unscrew everything, does that include the lower leg, or just the thigh part from the knee up?
Old Man Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Well, the upright intake peg on the right leg of my VF-1D just broke when I tried to angle it out (surprise, surprise). Does anyone know if Yamato has an English speaking customer service line? I'm not sure if the place I got it from is gonna be able to get a replacement for me.
GU-11 Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 It's official: we've got a possible "VF-1D-exclusive" leg version of explodium arms here. Great, first arms, then legs. What next? Nose cones? Oops, better not jinx it.... Graham, if you're reading this: please kindly inform Yamato that they've got another QC disaster on their hands.
GU-11 Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Well, the upright intake peg on the right leg of my VF-1D just broke when I tried to angle it out (surprise, surprise). Does anyone know if Yamato has an English speaking customer service line? I'm not sure if the place I got it from is gonna be able to get a replacement for me. Sorry to hear about your VF-1D, man. I'm starting to think that those damn legs just weren't designed to be transformed like that. Even after I get my -1D's right leg replaced, I'll be filing the peg to round out the corners and try prying it loose with a ruler or something before wiggling it out.
kitsunemx Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Hi guys! sorry it's been a while since i posted something on MW forums (i was a member back on the old forums), anyways, my name is Carlos AKA kitsunemx, im from Mexico and yada yada yada ill try to post my bio somewhere else to not bore you with that here So i've noticed you've helped plenty of people with their yammie's and Bandais, so i hope you can help me with this: I own a couple of Banprestos perfect transformation, (and before you start all the Banpresto Valk Hate, those where the only Valks i could afford when i was in school, Yamatos Valks are REALLY expensive here, plus, i've learned to love those little bastards ) and as you know they're very fragile, i had a mishap with one and one of the pieces that connected the front body with the back broke Left shoulder part broke on me The Valk is still usable and transforms ok (right part is ok, so it stays together fine), but it's less sturdy without that part, unfornately, the joint/plastic part that connected the plastic square, shown here is stuck inside that part, no way of taking it out, trust me, i tried so, any ideas of how to repair it? i would really apreciate it, i know there are guys here that are very resourceful in this area. Also, if anyone has a spare Banpresto skull (roy's) heat shield let me know, i lost mine decluttering my room years ago haha. Thanks guys, sorry to make this my first post! promise i'll try to cooperate with the community Edited June 26, 2010 by kitsunemx
Foblander Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Hey Graham I noticed in your signature that you were able to get the updated shoulder hinges for the V2. Is it possible to add me to the list for two sets? I tried pming you but it says you've disabled that feature. Please let me know if you can it will be greatly appreciated!
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Glad to hear it! I'll have to get around to doing the same after the -1D's replacement leg arrives. Thanks for the heads-up, man. I was getting kind of worried about dismantling the whole leg. Sorry for being "thick", but when you said to unscrew everything, does that include the lower leg, or just the thigh part from the knee up? I did everything because it seems there was some sort of light adhesive applied to both halves, no flaking though. It's either adhesive or the managed to put a helluva lotta torque on the legs. The trickiest thing would be the landing gear bay assembly, I made sure I didn't separate it too much or else the bay, doors and everything that holds it in place will fall out. You can try just removing the thigh screws but I found it very tight.
GU-11 Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 I did everything because it seems there was some sort of light adhesive applied to both halves, no flaking though. It's either adhesive or the managed to put a helluva lotta torque on the legs. The trickiest thing would be the landing gear bay assembly, I made sure I didn't separate it too much or else the bay, doors and everything that holds it in place will fall out. You can try just removing the thigh screws but I found it very tight. Thanks for the info, man. I'm pretty concerned about the landing gears; like you said, it's gonna be a hell of a mess it it falls apart. BTW, did Yamato send you just the thigh part or a whole leg? I'm guessing they just sent you the thigh.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 Thanks for the info, man. I'm pretty concerned about the landing gears; like you said, it's gonna be a hell of a mess it it falls apart. BTW, did Yamato send you just the thigh part or a whole leg? I'm guessing they just sent you the thigh. My earlier post said whole leg. The thing about Yamato is that they have to check if they have spare parts so I was worried on both occasions(VF-0A and VF-1D) about the availability of the parts I needed.
GU-11 Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 My earlier post said whole leg. The thing about Yamato is that they have to check if they have spare parts so I was worried on both occasions(VF-0A and VF-1D) about the availability of the parts I needed. Whoa, you mean there's no guarantee that they'll send you the parts? I mean, it IS their fault that the leg was busted. So what happens if they don't have spare parts? Great, and I just emailed HLJ asking for a VF-1D "cockpit capsule" to replace the one I've got that had the yellowed canopy. What are the odds of them sending me a replacement VF-1D leg AND a cockpit capsule, I wonder?
Old Man Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 So, the upright peg on the intake is completely broken off on my VF-1D, but the intake still won't release from the die-cast main body. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Vi-RS Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 So, the upright peg on the intake is completely broken off on my VF-1D, but the intake still won't release from the die-cast main body. Does anybody have any suggestions? I guess you must have strong hand, you have to bend the intake inwards to release the bigger tab, then push outwards again to release the smaller tab.
Old Man Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 I guess you must have strong hand, you have to bend the intake inwards to release the bigger tab, then push outwards again to release the smaller tab. Yeah, the only reason it's bending inwards at all is because the intake is splitting down the middle. It's as if Yamato glued the intake to the main body. The thing just won't budge.
GU-11 Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 Yeah, the only reason it's bending inwards at all is because the intake is splitting down the middle. It's as if Yamato glued the intake to the main body. The thing just won't budge. Although I can't personally recommend it, it seems the only apparent option here is to gently pry the sideways tab away from the torso. I'm not sure where to buy it, but Bandai sells one of those "guitar-pick things" that are specifically designed to remove assembled halves of a snap-fit kit without damaging it. Failing that, you could try wrapping thin cloth over a screwdriver or tweezers, and gently pry. Sorry if this isn't much help.
Vi-RS Posted June 27, 2010 Posted June 27, 2010 Yeah, the only reason it's bending inwards at all is because the intake is splitting down the middle. It's as if Yamato glued the intake to the main body. The thing just won't budge. Although I can't personally recommend it, it seems the only apparent option here is to gently pry the sideways tab away from the torso. I'm not sure where to buy it, but Bandai sells one of those "guitar-pick things" that are specifically designed to remove assembled halves of a snap-fit kit without damaging it. Failing that, you could try wrapping thin cloth over a screwdriver or tweezers, and gently pry. Sorry if this isn't much help. I have 2 copies of every Yamato V2, and have no problem disloging the intake out (touch wood) without using any tools. You just need to be very careful and angle the intake in and out to pop it off. Once you learn the trick, it works like charm.
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