What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.

GobotFool · August 25, 2003

just looked mine also has this problem. My fockers paint is fine though. Maybe its an enviromental reaction to heat humidity? :unsure:

Edited August 25, 2003 by GobotFool

Isamu Atreides 86 · August 25, 2003

how do you keep the 1/48s backpack from breaking?

VF-19 · August 25, 2003

Here's my question.

I recently got my 1:60 max (which I like very much... except he's a tad naked without the fast packs), and due to a tad bit of stupidity on my part, the left shoulder has been partly damaged. I took it apart, and noticed that there is a ball joint that's rivited to the arm plate (or whatever you'd call the part that the arm attaches to. Now I was able to push the rivit and ball joint back into position, but I'm worried...

Is there any thing I could do, like epoxy or superglue the joint (with the arm off)?

Graham · August 25, 2003

how do you keep the 1/48s backpack from breaking?

Yes, be gentle with it and don't push it up past the horizontal position.

In fact I keep the backpack hinges on all my 1/48 toys angled down, not even at horizontal postion and I don't use the upper swing clip as I beleive it puts undue pressue on the hinge.

The backpack hinge on my very first 1/48 broke, but only because I was pretty rough with it and pushed it up into the angled-up position several times to try to get the backpack to sit higher, before Yamato informed us we were not supposed to do this.

Since I have started keeping the hinges in the angle-down position, I have not had a problem with the backpack hinges.

Graham

imode · August 25, 2003

how do you keep the 1/48s backpack from breaking?

I'm actually not sure how people make it break in the first place.

My advice, when you're pushing it down in battroid mode, make sure that little swivel tab that pokes through the hole in the back plate is in the lowered position and NOT poking through its hole. That way the backpack is able to lie flat to the depressed backplate WITH the latch in place without having to apply too much pressure. If you do that and it still breaks, then *shrug*. I dunno.

EXO · August 25, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip... :unsure:

Manji · August 25, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

Ya know I was thinking the same thing (especially after reading Graham's earlier post)...guess we'll just sit back and wait... <_<

Edited August 26, 2003 by Manji

Graham · August 26, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

I guess we just have to wait and see. Only about a week or so now to go.

Yamato have told me it is safe to use the clip, but I don't believe them

Don't forget, the 1/48 FAST packs are going to come with that optional extrawhite plastic part, which attaches behind the back hatch. Yamato say that this is a dual function part. Firstly, it adds a bit of extra detail to that area and secondly, it is supposed to add a bit of reinforcement. However, that part can only be used in Battroid mode and has to be removed for transformation to Fighter or Gerwalk.

Graham

Hoptimus · August 26, 2003

Ok you know what sucks. My first 1/60 Fastpack VF was the Max version. It has many flaws. Mucho scraped paint on the diecast and one of the Fastpack mounts on the back of the legs in damaged where it attaches to the VF. Now I just got the Milia and Focker second hand from Fudrom and they are both perfect. Damn QC where were you for my Max you bastages! <_>

Toonz · August 26, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

I guess we just have to wait and see. Only about a week or so now to go.

Yamato have told me it is safe to use the clip, but I don't believe them

Don't forget, the 1/48 FAST packs are going to come with that optional extrawhite plastic part, which attaches behind the back hatch. Yamato say that this is a dual function part. Firstly, it adds a bit of extra detail to that area and secondly, it is supposed to add a bit of reinforcement. However, that part can only be used in Battroid mode and has to be removed for transformation to Fighter or Gerwalk.

Graham

....s :blink: unds scary.......

Edited August 26, 2003 by Toonz

pfunk · August 26, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

I guess we just have to wait and see. Only about a week or so now to go.

Yamato have told me it is safe to use the clip, but I don't believe them

Don't forget, the 1/48 FAST packs are going to come with that optional extrawhite plastic part, which attaches behind the back hatch. Yamato say that this is a dual function part. Firstly, it adds a bit of extra detail to that area and secondly, it is supposed to add a bit of reinforcement. However, that part can only be used in Battroid mode and has to be removed for transformation to Fighter or Gerwalk.

Graham

....s unds scary.......

Yeah, I have a low vis on the way and I dont want a $100 P.O.S., Im waiting to see from the other members and how thiers fair

Hurin · August 26, 2003

Those interested in the "nose/fuselage gap fix" can check out my thread on it here.

Thanks!

imode · August 26, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

I guess we just have to wait and see. Only about a week or so now to go.

Yamato have told me it is safe to use the clip, but I don't believe them

Don't forget, the 1/48 FAST packs are going to come with that optional extrawhite plastic part, which attaches behind the back hatch. Yamato say that this is a dual function part. Firstly, it adds a bit of extra detail to that area and secondly, it is supposed to add a bit of reinforcement. However, that part can only be used in Battroid mode and has to be removed for transformation to Fighter or Gerwalk.

Graham

....s unds scary.......

Yeah, I have a low vis on the way and I dont want a $100 P.O.S., Im waiting to see from the other members and how thiers fair

Extra white plastic hatch? So the FP's aren't for the low viz valks?

Does anyone know the answer to this yet?

EXO · August 26, 2003

I think the piece Graham is talking about sits between the chest and back plate of the battroid, so there's a chance you wont be able to see it that well.

kensei · August 27, 2003

How do I prevent cracking of the bottom edge of the air intake? Happened twice now with both my VF-1A/S. What's it due to?

You are talking about the 1/48 right?

Any photos?

Are you using something hard (like a screwdriver) to pry off the intake covers? That could be causing the cracking.

Graham

No no, I don't use anything but my fingernails (when I don't cut them). But I got my 1/48 Max Version yesterday, straight out of the box it had the same problem. I don't have a camera to take a picture, but there was one with the same problem on the old forums.

VF-19 · August 27, 2003

Here's my question.
I recently got my 1:60 max (which I like very much... except he's a tad naked without the fast packs), and due to a tad bit of stupidity on my part, the left shoulder has been partly damaged. I took it apart, and noticed that there is a ball joint that's rivited to the arm plate (or whatever you'd call the part that the arm attaches to. Now I was able to push the rivit and ball joint back into position, but I'm worried...

Is there any thing I could do, like epoxy or superglue the joint (with the arm off)?

I've decided to quote myself just to make this post a wee bit clear.

As you can see in the picture, the arm's off (and yes, I had to saw through a peg to get it off), and the ball joint is exposed. This ball is attached to the shoulder plate via a metal pin. Now the problem is, is that the ball is not staying put, as the pin or glue is not holding the ball in place. I'm thinking a two part epoxy glue. One part would be where the pin attaches to the inside of the shaft, and the other would be where the ball attaches to the outside of the shaft. Is this a good course of action. I don't want to use superglue as it may not hold up to wear and tear. Also, for this I'm planing to use the highest rated strength epoxy so it stays fixed (which may be 30 min epoxy).

Any suggestions would be welcome.

wyaxyz · August 28, 2003

I just got my Miria VF-1J today and I opened the box just a few minutes ago. The hinge that holds the rear wing section the the body of the plane is broken in half. I am in the process of fixing it, but I would prefer a new piece. Before I go any further, does anyone have any tips for me that could help me remove the broken hinge??? The piece that holds it on is glued on so good, that I'm afraid I may break something else.

Please check my other post if anyone here has a replacemet part.

Wanted

nemesis120 · August 28, 2003

Hmm, I actually have a question for this. On my Bandai reissue (the recent one) Super VF-1S, one of the friggin wings doesn't stay in place. I took the thing apart (had some interesting results there) and the wing appeared to be in good condition but the thing still doesn't stay put. Anybody have any ideas?

And I might as well put some useful stuff here since someone will ask sooner or later.

With a wobbly leg in a 1/55, just get a screwdriver and tighten the screws in the leg bar thing. Although don't tighten them too much since you can wind up destroying the leg.

And with a 1/60, just use a friggin hobby knife to get the canopy off. There was an obvious design problem with the valk - it's not that hard to get off with some leverage, but you can't get any (that's what the hobby knife is for). Although hold your hand over the canopy - I spent like 10 minutes looking for one that flew off.

wyaxyz · August 28, 2003

Thanks nemesis120!!! Trying that right now. Now, I hope I can find some glue to fix this piece tonight.

Commander McBride · August 28, 2003

Hey, does anyone have a picture of the backpack stress marks? I want to check the 1/48 I have here, but I don't know exactly what to look for.

Bub · August 28, 2003

Are we going to see a slew of broken backpack hinges when the FASTPacks come out? IIRC, the FaSTpacks require us to use the clip...

I guess we just have to wait and see. Only about a week or so now to go.

Yamato have told me it is safe to use the clip, but I don't believe them

Don't forget, the 1/48 FAST packs are going to come with that optional extrawhite plastic part, which attaches behind the back hatch. Yamato say that this is a dual function part. Firstly, it adds a bit of extra detail to that area and secondly, it is supposed to add a bit of reinforcement. However, that part can only be used in Battroid mode and has to be removed for transformation to Fighter or Gerwalk.

Graham

Whooooooooooooooooooooooo Boy.

Yamato Better Do something about reinforcing this "clip" on the upcoming valks Hikaru VF-1J and most especially the Hikaru VF-1S before releasing them.

Graham, Please inform Yamato about reinforcing the hinge clip in the future valks IF we get reports of it breaking when the Fast Packs are installed.

...Still, we'll just have to wait and see. But it's ALWAYS better to tell Yamato VERY EARLY so that they can do something about it ASAP................... Even if the next 1/48 valk is planned for an October Release.

sonic_cd · August 28, 2003

on my yf-21,both the shoulder sliders have broke already....which leaves the hands dangling usellessly ...it was lucky yamato made the sliders on the vf-11 metal,else they might have brokealready...

Nightbat · August 28, 2003

Problem: My 1/48 can't hold it's gunpod, it's always hanging loose in it's hand

Solution: The problem is the triggerfinger, if you place it in the triggerhole it will

push the gunpod forward thereby folding the rest of the fingers outward and losing grip

*proceed at own risk*

heat up the triggerfinger and bend it till it's 90 degrees ( _| instead of _/ )

this way it pushes the gunpod backwards in the palm of the hand

and the rest of the fingers will hold their grip

*saw this problem in the "Improvements-Thread", thought I post my solution here

Edited August 28, 2003 by Nightbat®

Graham · August 29, 2003

Yamato Better Do something about reinforcing this "clip" on the upcoming valks Hikaru VF-1J and most especially the Hikaru VF-1S before releasing them.
Graham, Please inform Yamato about reinforcing the hinge clip in the future valks IF we get reports of it breaking when the Fast Packs are installed.

...Still, we'll just have to wait and see. But it's ALWAYS better to tell Yamato VERY EARLY so that they can do something about it ASAP................... Even if the next 1/48 valk is planned for an October Release.

I've already suggested they reinforce this part months and months ago, in fact when the 1/48 VF-1A Hikaru came out.

However, as so far there are only a handful of reported breakages, less than 10 that I know of out of tens of thousands of toys produced, Yamato doesn't really consider this a problem.

Graham

mechatek · August 29, 2003

However, as so far there are only a handful of reported breakages, less than 10 that I know of out of tens of thousands of toys produced, Yamato doesn't really consider this a problem.
Graham

You just have to watch what you're doing when folding up the backpack. In battroid mode, make sure the "pointy thingie" is in the down position, push in the back hatch, and what I think is the most important is to always move the bottom hinge first (the one inside the backpack) and then the top hinge (the one attached to the back plate). Also, I've always used the clip to hold the backpack in place on all my valks without stress marks. I think the FP boosters will not be a problem, unless they're made out of die-cast.

Isamu Atreides 86 · August 29, 2003

when you say pointy thing, do you mean the tiny piece that comes through the back hatch? what is that for anyways? when in fighter mode, should it be sticking through the back hatch?

VF-19 · August 29, 2003

I'd thought I'd post an update as to the status of my Max 1A, who had suffered a damaged shoulder!

I think I'll let the pic speak for itself!

imode · August 29, 2003

when you say pointy thing, do you mean the tiny piece that comes through the back hatch? what is that for anyways? when in fighter mode, should it be sticking through the back hatch?

Yes. I think it's just for detail in fighter mode, and perhaps in gerwalk. Only when youre in battroid do you have to push it down. Otherwise, the backpack won't lie flat to the back and you won't be able to latch the backpack with that hook on the hatch.

Lightning · August 30, 2003

my red landing light popped out on my Low Vis. anyone know a good clear glue that would fix it?

Bub · August 31, 2003

my red landing light popped out on my Low Vis. anyone know a good clear glue that would fix it?

I used Ross super glue.

pfunk · August 31, 2003

Just got my Low Vis yesterday, i do have a few gripes

1) head laser waaayyyy to long (not to mention the head looks small) and i got it caught in the back area when transforming and got a stress mark, so i trimmed it back about 3MM and am going to drill it out and paint it

2) That second little fin on the area that holds the backpack in gerwalk mode is a stupid loose piece and should be molded in

3) Is it me or does the nose of the plane look a little big

4) Takes to long to transform, i wish it was easy as the bandai's, but the sculpt and detail are EXCEPTIONAL

5) Oh, and the hands can be taken off, they should have been screwwed in or positivly attached,

My 50 cents <_<

VF-19 · August 31, 2003

my red landing light popped out on my Low Vis. anyone know a good clear glue that would fix it?

I used Ross super glue.

But, wouldn't that fog up the clear piece?

Your best bet would be a 5 min epoxy. It will never come out again! But, I don't know if it will dry clear. All I know is that Lepage 90 min set epoxy does dry pretty clear (worked wonders for my 1A Max. see pic a few posts back), and it will be super strong.

Lightning · August 31, 2003

4) Takes to long to transform, i wish it was easy as the bandai's, but the sculpt and detail are EXCEPTIONAL

I got my transformation time (either way) down to about 1:45!

Bub · September 1, 2003

my red landing light popped out on my Low Vis. anyone know a good clear glue that would fix it?

I used Ross super glue.

But, wouldn't that fog up the clear piece?

Your best bet would be a 5 min epoxy. It will never come out again! But, I don't know if it will dry clear. All I know is that Lepage 90 min set epoxy does dry pretty clear (worked wonders for my 1A Max. see pic a few posts back), and it will be super strong.

Nah. You just have to put a little glue on the right places.

Graham · September 2, 2003

Just got my Low Vis yesterday, i do have a few gripes
1) head laser waaayyyy to long (not to mention the head looks small) and i got it caught in the back area when transforming and got a stress mark, so i trimmed it back about 3MM and am going to drill it out and paint it

2) That second little fin on the area that holds the backpack in gerwalk mode is a stupid loose piece and should be molded in

3) Is it me or does the nose of the plane look a little big

4) Takes to long to transform, i wish it was easy as the bandai's, but the sculpt and detail are EXCEPTIONAL

5) Oh, and the hands can be taken off, they should have been screwwed in or positivly attached,

My 50 cents <_<

Pfunk, it seems your post is mostly just your opinions of the toy and not legitimate 'what is wrong' complaints.

1) That the head laser is too long is your opinion. It certainly does not qualify as a 'What's wrong with.....' topic. Likewise, getting the head laser caught and stressing it is a user error. The 1/48 VF-1A head laser is actually very easy to clear through the hatch when transforming.

2) The purpose of having the second fin a moving peice is to allow the backpack to sit flatter (lower) in Gerwalk mode. It is a clever design feature, certainly not 'stupid'.

3) The 1/48 is designed to look best in fighter mode, thus the nose is longer than how it appears in the anime in Battroid mode. However, the anime uses anime magic to shrink parts so unless you go the Bandai route and have a short stubby inaccurate nose, it is impossible to have a nose which is lineart accurate in all three modes.

4) Transformation will become quicker with familiarity. What a lot of people don't seem to be able to grasp is that the more points of articulation a toy has, the longer it will take to transform. If the Yamato had the same limited articulation it would be just as quick as the Bandai. What it boils down to is is that everything is a compromise. If you want greater articulation and more features, then you have to suffer slightly slower transformation times. If you want quick easy transformation, but limited articulation, then buy a Bandai.

5) having the hands removable gives the option of adding optional hand sets ala the 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru. Anyway, the 1/48 hands do not fall out easily so what is wrong with this feature?

Graham

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