mickyg Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Super glue is indeed an impressive thing! I'm quite surprised to report, my fix from yesterday appears to be holding up! I've swung the leg out a few times and everything seems to be OK. Here's a shot of where I glued. The little barred area at the end of the green line is where I was careful to stop the glue, so that area just beyond can still flex. This is what's in contact with the detents on the gerwalk hips. It has to flex a bit to allow the joint to click. I expect this won't last forever and I plan to use a machine bolt and nut to hold the shell together. It won't be completely hidden but I think I'm OK with that. The joint is not all that visible in fighter mode, where it'll spend most of its time. We'll see about the other modes... So it can be repaired! It's just not a pretty repair when it breaks the way mine did. If I had it to do over again, I'd have been more careful with that cap over the screw and just drilled a few progressively larger holes until I could get the screw out. The cap won't just pop off, as I was attempting to do at the start. Anyway, I hope someone finds this helpful at some point.
BlueMax Posted October 23, 2009 Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) Not really a 'what's wrong'...but does the upper body of the Bandai DX 1/60 VF-25 'lock' into place or is it just kind of 'there'? It is something wrong as far as I am concerned! See my sig! it is suppossed to stay in place.... locked. However the locking mechanism doesn't seem to do a good job, especially after locking/unlocking a few times, and with the weight of Super packs, it just seem to be too much for it. It seems to be a fairly common problem, but some people don't seem to have it, even though they have seemed to transform it a few times.... For myself, I have not tried nail varnishes. What I have done is take a piece of paper, and used it as some sort as a wedge by putting that piece in between the locking mechanism, so that the damn thing will hold by friction. I know, it ain't the best solution, but if you are just displaying these things in battroid form with little to no playing, it works... at least it does for me. Edited October 23, 2009 by BlueMax
anime52k8 Posted October 24, 2009 Posted October 24, 2009 I just got my VE-1... and the head won't stay attached. has anyone else had this problem? does anyone know how to fix this?
Chronocidal Posted October 24, 2009 Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Assuming the VE-1 has the same friction-type head mount as the other v2 1/60s, I'd check and see if another Valk's head fits it, or if the VE-1 head fits another neck. The hole in the head might be a bit big, or the neck might be too small. Either way though, I think you could fix that just by applying something to the head peg to make it a bit bigger (preferably something you can sand down if it gets too big). I coated a couple pegs on my SV-51s' wings in super glue to enlarge them, and that seemed to work well for that. Depending on how loose the head is though, it may take a few coats of glue before you get it big enough. BTW, I use an extra thick superglue for this, so I can build up a bit of a bulge fairly quickly. I wish I could get into my VF-1J's head to fix the floppy lasers, but the gaps are too small to get to the hinges easily, and I think they're riveted on. Still no ideas on how to get the head apart? Edit: K, I know what's wrong with the head lasers.. the hinge pins that keep them on are press fit, and the surface of the head is not quite perpendicular to the pivot axis.. When I first got it, the head lasers were fine in fighter... after rotating up to battroid the first time (quite a bit of friction here the first time), they're completely limp, except in battroid. If I reach into the head with a pin, and press outward on the hinge pins while pressing the laser mounts down tight, they'll go tight enough to stay level in fighter... but rotate them up for battroid again, and the pins pull loose, making the lasers limp again. I'm wondering now if I just have a head that got molded badly. Has anyone else had this happen? Should I maybe think about ordering a replacement? Edited October 24, 2009 by Chronocidal
Vi-RS Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 I just got my VE-1... and the head won't stay attached. has anyone else had this problem? does anyone know how to fix this? Which part of the head wont stay in place? The ball socket btw head and neck or the peg btw neck and torso? I reckcon the joint, apply nail polisher or glue shall help. Mine stay in place but will come off with little force.
hadiwinata Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 say. i just got my new 1/60 1j max....and for some reason the "attachment" holder for the backpack just would not attach properly, like it was not made for it. when attached the pegs on the twin booster is not in line with the little hole in which it should peg in securely. and then when it's forced in the wing cannot closes... basically it feels like the tray that holds the booster was NOT the right one.....like, it just doesn't fit AT ALL. i notice that this particular valk has different "backpack" thingy than my previous valks which is elintseeker and super ostrich. so yeah.....can't really compare to see what is wrong since they have different backpack. any help is greatly appreciated.
Depthcharge Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 I know it's not a Macross toy but does anyone know if somebody is offering a parts service for the Toynami MPC Alpha Fighters? I've got a Rook Alpha with a broken arm that I'd like to get fixed or sell. Thanks, -DC
RainBot Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) say. i just got my new 1/60 1j max....and for some reason the "attachment" holder for the backpack just would not attach properly, like it was not made for it. when attached the pegs on the twin booster is not in line with the little hole in which it should peg in securely. and then when it's forced in the wing cannot closes... basically it feels like the tray that holds the booster was NOT the right one.....like, it just doesn't fit AT ALL. i notice that this particular valk has different "backpack" thingy than my previous valks which is elintseeker and super ostrich. so yeah.....can't really compare to see what is wrong since they have different backpack. any help is greatly appreciated. I had the same problem. Moreover, the white paint on the back of the shoulder - light thingies for both Max and Miriya is scratched all to heck and back during normal careful transformation from Gerwalk to Battroid mode. I'll check my other backpacks for comparison - I have all but three of the releases so far. More info soon. Edited December 2, 2009 by RainBot
Chronocidal Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 The shoulder tab scratching is going to happen no matter what you do really.. it's a key attachment point for the chestplate. What I did was file down the tabs on the inside of the chest plate some. They were rather jagged, which probably wasn't helping the scratching, and they were big enough that detaching the chest plate was tricky. The way the back boosters mount though... I have a mini-rant I need to post about this system. Yes, it's sturdy, but the way it's mounted scares me. It looks like it's seriously compromising the tail structure, not to mention scratching the tail paint on my Roy. I'll post pictures of this later, but I'm actually afraid the booster system is eventually going to lead to the tails snapping in half. I might be overly concerned.. but those tails should NOT be bending as much as they are.
HoveringCheesecake Posted December 13, 2009 Posted December 13, 2009 (edited) Don't know if anyone else had this problem, but the reflective stuff on my 1st edition 1/60 v2 Roy 1S canopy was chipping and falling off. Quality! The shoulders will probably break whenever I decide to transform it too. Edited December 13, 2009 by meh_cd
Vi-RS Posted December 13, 2009 Posted December 13, 2009 Don't know if anyone else had this problem, but the reflective stuff on my 1st edition 1/60 v2 Roy 1S canopy was chipping and falling off. Quality! The shoulders will probably break whenever I decide to transform it too. I have over 40+ V2 and one of mine has the same problem, and yes it's roy's vf-1s too, this particular unti also has cracked shoulder. This is the only problem that I have with all my V2.
HoveringCheesecake Posted December 13, 2009 Posted December 13, 2009 Ouch! That's worse than mine. Mine just had a little spot, so I started chipping away and just took most of the coating off. Unfortunately the canopy itself has a slight yellow tint so I guess it's going to be in Battroid mode whenever I have the room to display them. You haven't experienced this with your others, you say? That's good news. I was worried about my Cannon Fodder. The first issue Roy must have been the teething phase.
Foblander Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 Sorry I couldn't find an appropriate topic to post under for this specific question. I have noticed between my Focker 1s and Hikaru 1s that the Focker 1s is sturdier than the Hikaru 1s. For example, when in battroid mode Focker's swingbar sits in place without any movement, whereas the Hikaru version has a little give and pushes the nose door back and forth as I try to position it standing. It's really awkward. My Focker is well balanced and the Hikaru is not as a result of the bar moving. Also on my Hikaru the knees are also looser. Enough space to move the shin left and right whereas on my Focker there is barely any movement. Does every valk come out differently or is it just me? Thanks for your input
derex3592 Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 I finally got YAMATOED...... :angry: My Virgin Road has the "cracked" look on the shiny coating on the canopy. The ONE CANOPY OF THEM ALL THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEAR!!! *SIGH* anyone around here actually received and successfully changed out a ver. 2 canopy???
RainBot Posted December 23, 2009 Posted December 23, 2009 I finally got YAMATOED...... :angry: My Virgin Road has the "cracked" look on the shiny coating on the canopy. The ONE CANOPY OF THEM ALL THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEAR!!! *SIGH* anyone around here actually received and successfully changed out a ver. 2 canopy??? I'm emailing HLJ today for that same reason, but on the Kakizaki DYRL version. They've been awesome about that sorta stuff before. Clearly this cockpit problem is a recurring motif.
derex3592 Posted December 23, 2009 Posted December 23, 2009 I'm emailing HLJ today for that same reason, but on the Kakizaki DYRL version. They've been awesome about that sorta stuff before. Clearly this cockpit problem is a recurring motif. awesome, I'll do the same thing. Thanks. Let us know how it turns out on your end!
HoveringCheesecake Posted December 23, 2009 Posted December 23, 2009 If you guys want to put in a group order for some replacement canopies I'm game for a few.
Funkenstein Posted December 26, 2009 Posted December 26, 2009 On my Nora, the hinge that connects the wing to the hinged fuselage part is lose. I discovered that there is only one screw bolting that point together, and when you flex the joint, the two halves start to separate. I used some glue on one,of the sections but it didn't do anything about the looseness of that hinge, and Im having problems gluing the other one. I just bought a small philips head to tighten it, but I suspect that the hinges may have actually been displaced. Anyone have similar problems?
BeyondTheGrave Posted January 1, 2010 Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Just got the Sv-51 Nora type and it has the floppy wing issue. not too bad at the moment . But is there a fix for it? I probably wont be putting the attachments on due to the fact they require so much force it scares me some. while i'm at it is there an easier way to put the boosters on? Edited January 1, 2010 by BeyondTheGrave
Funkenstein Posted January 3, 2010 Posted January 3, 2010 Im not sure how much easier they could be. You take the panels off the wings and then slot the boosters into them. Are you having problems with keeping them on the wings?
hutch Posted January 3, 2010 Posted January 3, 2010 Just got a VF-0S with Ghost Booster. Shoulders seem fine but I have stress marks on the main hinge. Not really a stress bearing part is this a common problem?
BeyondTheGrave Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Im not sure how much easier they could be. You take the panels off the wings and then slot the boosters into them. Are you having problems with keeping them on the wings? I haven't put them on the wings. The panels are in quite securely. I'm trying to find and object to use to remove them that won't scratch the paint.
m0n5t3r Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 I haven't put them on the wings. The panels are in quite securely. I'm trying to find and object to use to remove them that won't scratch the paint. poke the tabs out from under the wing/s...
mickyg Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 TIP: Insert the booster from the bottom - the holes go all the way through and that'll push the plug out.
mickyg Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 poke the tabs out from under the wing/s... DOH! Beat me to it!
BeyondTheGrave Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 I'll give it a try soon. I have to take it back out the box. On a positive note... so far no noticeable cracks or breaks.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Just got a 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru and the left hip was very very loose at the ball joint. Took both hips apart, found that both rubber caps are shaped differently. One too tight, the other too loose. Any tips on making the loose one more tighter?
nightmareB4macross Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Just got a 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru and the left hip was very very loose at the ball joint. Took both hips apart, found that both rubber caps are shaped differently. One too tight, the other too loose. Any tips on making the loose one more tighter? Replace the rubber caps with new ones, by using a single-hole punch and an old sink mat. Works like a charm.
kamadoma Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield).
Ignacio Ocamica Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield). I don't think the peeling of the reflective film from the canopies is a widespread problem. I have 10 v2 VF's and none has this issue. And yes, the canopies are completely hidden by the heatshield in battroid mode.
HoveringCheesecake Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield). I had to chip away at it, but if I had let it sit there for a few more months so that more bubbled off it probably would have been easier. It doesn't look perfect now, but unless I mentioned to someone that I had chipped the coating off they wouldn't even notice.
kamadoma Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks for the input. I guess it's not much of a big fuss then. What did you used to chip away at it anyway?
typhoon Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Hello - I posted the content below as a new thread and was directed to this thread.... Anyone had a similair issue with the lower intake on their 1/48??.................. As the title suggests I received a broken 1/48 Yamato Hikki VF-1S just before Christmas. I have checked over the other topics in relation to damaged Yamato's and I couldn't find this specific issue so I apologize if I missed it. I bought the 1/48 from Angolz (my first purchase with them). I thought the price was good and the shipping was reasonable so I took the jump.... This is where the story comes unstuck. As I slowly unwrapped my new prize I noticed hairline cracks on the lower portion of the intake. Thats below the hip joint and the pivot point when in Gerwalk mode. At first I thought I was seeing things, so I gently slid the legs out as if to transform into Gerwalk and the cracks started to open up (or flex) under the pressure. Thats when I noticed the other leg had the same crack but on the inside of the leg!! I have to say that this is my tenth 1/48 and I have over 20 of the V2 1/60's so I know some of the issues taht have been popping up but I haven't seen or heard of this problem before. Just to be clear its the lower portion of the intake and the crack runs from the laser pod to about 1mm from the edge of this part. The other leg with inside crack runs just above the seem of the intake and right around to the top of where the two parts of the intake meet. These cracks are NOT on the intake part that joins to the hips or the front of the intake which has the intake covers. Angolz have been really good about the whole thing, I sent a polite but concerned email and I had a response within hours. I had to get some pictures and so forth but as soon as Angolz received the pictures they offered to replace the 1/48. The only catch was that I had to pay the shipping to return the Valk. So far it has been about 7 days and I'm hoping my damaged Valk arrives Ok - as they wont ship the replacement until my damaged one arrives. Fingers crossed that all goes to plan and I recieve my replacement next week.....
Vi-RS Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 I don't think the peeling of the reflective film from the canopies is a widespread problem. I have 10 v2 VF's and none has this issue. And yes, the canopies are completely hidden by the heatshield in battroid mode. I don't think it's a major problem. I have over 40 V2 and only one with the problem, and this particular one happen to have stressed shoulder, so the shoulder is a bit loose. The rest of mine V2 are all intact.
Recommended Posts