regult Posted July 10, 2009 Posted July 10, 2009 Are the overdrive replacement arms for the VF-1 V2.0 a real solution or only a stop gap that will only crack anyway? In fact, the problem is not so much the arm but the "L" shaped piece of plastic that cannot bear the force of the metal rod in its socket. Focker and Ichijo both blew up, already got a replacement for the latter when the Focker decided it was it's turn...talk about sth. annoying! Would using smaller diameter metal rods really solve the problem or is it the type of plastic they're using? wouldn't the arm become much looser if the metal rod is thinner?
VF-19 Posted July 10, 2009 Posted July 10, 2009 I've got something slightly different wrong with my VF-1a Hikaru 1:60 V2. One of the rotating mounts on the wings snapped right off when I gently pulled out the missle. Luckly, it's a clean break, and some superglue should fix the problem. It's a brand new valk too. Both shoulders are fine, though.
Muzaffar Posted July 19, 2009 Posted July 19, 2009 (edited) My 1/48 VF-1J Miria Arms don't lock into place with the legs when the super parts are attached in plane mode. Any solutions? Edited July 19, 2009 by Muzaffar
David Hingtgen Posted July 19, 2009 Posted July 19, 2009 All 1/48 have that issue. You can glue magnets in to help. (I could swear I saved the thread about it, but can't find it now)
Muzaffar Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) error Edited August 21, 2009 by Muzaffar
ultimateone Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 (edited) So, due to a drop from a desk I've got two broken hip joints on a 1/48 VF-1S. I've got the pieces to glue it back together, but I was wondering what glue I should us. Any recommendations? Edited August 19, 2009 by ultimateone
eugimon Posted August 21, 2009 Posted August 21, 2009 pictures? but in general I'd say a good 2 part epoxy.
ultimateone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 (edited) pictures? but in general I'd say a good 2 part epoxy. Oops, here it is... My buddy has a good 2 stage epoxy. Now, I need to keep the joint moving while letting it settle, right? Is there an easy way to do that? Edited August 22, 2009 by ultimateone
eugimon Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 ouch.. yeah, keep if from moving around for 24 hours, even if it says it's a 15 min epoxy or whatever.
ultimateone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 ouch.. yeah, keep if from moving around for 24 hours, even if it says it's a 15 min epoxy or whatever. I won't freeze the metal to the plastic? (I mean, if I happen to be slightly sloppy and get some on the inside of the ball joint)
ultimateone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 By the way, the "ASS" in the background of the shot was unintentional, but fitting.
anime52k8 Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 So, due to a drop from a desk I've got two broken hip joints on a 1/48 VF-1S. I've got the pieces to glue it back together, but I was wondering what glue I should us. Any recommendations? I had something similar happen to my stealth VF-1J, broke a piece off the hip joint on one leg and lost the piece. does anyone know if there's a way to get a replacement part (through OD or something?)
ultimateone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 I had something similar happen to my stealth VF-1J, broke a piece off the hip joint on one leg and lost the piece. does anyone know if there's a way to get a replacement part (through OD or something?) Found the link in this section, but I think i they only replace due to defect, not accidents... http://www.over-drive-inc.com/macross_parts/
m0n5t3r Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 I won't freeze the metal to the plastic? (I mean, if I happen to be slightly sloppy and get some on the inside of the ball joint) wouldn't it be easier to remove the broken parts first from the hip/thigh before gluing them together? parts BD2 and BD3 on the Parts list pic...
eugimon Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 From the pictures it looked to me like it would be tricky to b able to epoxy the halves separately and then screw the two whole halves back together. But if you can swing it that way, it's probably for the best. Honestly, from looking at how it broke I don't know that epoxy will really do anything other than just let you hold it in place. It will probably break again if you pose it too much. Personally, I'd go through over-drive and see if replacements were possible or start looking for a junker 1/48 to cannibalize.
ultimateone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 From the pictures it looked to me like it would be tricky to b able to epoxy the halves separately and then screw the two whole halves back together. But if you can swing it that way, it's probably for the best. Honestly, from looking at how it broke I don't know that epoxy will really do anything other than just let you hold it in place. It will probably break again if you pose it too much. Personally, I'd go through over-drive and see if replacements were possible or start looking for a junker 1/48 to cannibalize. Sigh, that's what I was afraid of. I feel bad cause the wifey is distraught about the breakage. I told her not to worry, it was an easy fix. Looks like I'm heading to OverDrive, then possibly the wanted ads. Thanks for everyone's help, Made this alot easier!!
onions Posted September 7, 2009 Posted September 7, 2009 Okay, I don't know where else to post this so here goes: I just assembled my 1/48 woodland low camo vf-1a with it's matching gbp armor set. However, the hands that come with the armor set won't fit into the sockets where the vf-1a's hands are plugged in. is there something obvious i'm missing or what? please help, cause I'd like to use the larger hands with the gbp armor as the original hands look way too disproportionate.
ultimateone Posted September 7, 2009 Posted September 7, 2009 Okay, I don't know where else to post this so here goes: I just assembled my 1/48 woodland low camo vf-1a with it's matching gbp armor set. However, the hands that come with the armor set won't fit into the sockets where the vf-1a's hands are plugged in. is there something obvious i'm missing or what? please help, cause I'd like to use the larger hands with the gbp armor as the original hands look way too disproportionate. I've had to take a pice of fine grit sand paper to resin cast hands before, maybe you can try to grind a bit off? Obviously go a little at a time so as not to make it loose. /If you do go to far, there's a putty called quake proof that I've used to keep the hands in place, and guns in hands.
onions Posted September 15, 2009 Posted September 15, 2009 I've had to take a pice of fine grit sand paper to resin cast hands before, maybe you can try to grind a bit off? Obviously go a little at a time so as not to make it loose. /If you do go to far, there's a putty called quake proof that I've used to keep the hands in place, and guns in hands. thank you ultimateone. i actually took an exacto blade and shaved off some of the plastic on the peg and it worked like a charm. it was a little nerve wracking, but after a bit it got on. thanks!
mickyg Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 (edited) Grrr... Just got an SV-51 (Nora type) from Overdrive - AWESOME service and shipping by the way! I got it out of the box, opened up the instruction manual to be safe, started transforming it and the leg fell off! Looks like the screw caused a bit of stress in the female side of the plastic shell, and it just snapped. I also noticed the tire on one of the wheels is pretty misshapen. I think it was pressed with some foreign object in the mold as there's a white part on it and this is where the tire sort of distorts. It's not a huge deal but annoying, nonetheless. I'll contact Overdrive but I don't like my chances for a quick resolution, as their most recent newsletter mentioned something about a 2 month turn around for Yamato parts. Frustrating - This thing was not even 15 minutes old out of the box! Edited September 22, 2009 by mickyg
Fatalist Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 How does one go about disassembling a 1/48 VF-1J head? I have a loose head laser.
Fatalist Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Nevermind. Figured it out. Nothing an exacto knife and some thinner can't fix.
macross_fan99 Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 Grrr... Just got an SV-51 (Nora type) from Overdrive - AWESOME service and shipping by the way! I got it out of the box, opened up the instruction manual to be safe, started transforming it and the leg fell off! Looks like the screw caused a bit of stress in the female side of the plastic shell, and it just snapped. I also noticed the tire on one of the wheels is pretty misshapen. I think it was pressed with some foreign object in the mold as there's a white part on it and this is where the tire sort of distorts. It's not a huge deal but annoying, nonetheless. I'll contact Overdrive but I don't like my chances for a quick resolution, as their most recent newsletter mentioned something about a 2 month turn around for Yamato parts. Frustrating - This thing was not even 15 minutes old out of the box! I was going to post almost the exact same thing as you. I also had the leg break. Anyone know of the best way to fix this? Sending it back is no longer an option for me.
ultimateone Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 Sigh, that's what I was afraid of. I feel bad cause the wifey is distraught about the breakage. I told her not to worry, it was an easy fix. Looks like I'm heading to OverDrive, then possibly the wanted ads. Thanks for everyone's help, Made this alot easier!! So, in case anyone is wondering, I fixed this with a bottle of Loctite 416 Instant Adhesive and gap filler. First I applied the adhesive to both pieces, then set them together and pinched for about 30 seconds. I gave that about an hour to dry, then liberally applied more to the cracks and gaps. After allowing that to dry over night, I cut a few squares of thin styrene and glued them to act as a bonding plate across the 2 pieces. Then I filled any additional gaps under the styrene and any other spots I may have missed. It appears to be pretty damn solid, as I had to put the legs on and remove twice becuase I put them on the wrong sides, twice I've since posed the legs and put it from Gerwalk to Fighter and back...
pondo Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 I just got my first 1/60 last night. vf-1s and yes, the shoulder is cracked.
ultimateone Posted October 10, 2009 Posted October 10, 2009 I just got my first 1/60 last night. vf-1s and yes, the shoulder is cracked. That sucks...
pondo Posted October 10, 2009 Posted October 10, 2009 That sucks... Yeah, it was my first venture into the whole overdrive thing. I' lived in Hong kong last year and totally wasted my time there by only buying a single 1/48. So the thought of ordering one at higher prices has been killing me. I think I just need to go back to hong kong..........
Funkenstein Posted October 12, 2009 Posted October 12, 2009 I dunno if this is the right place, but is there any place in North America that sells replacement parts for non-Gundam Bandai kits? I want to repair my VF-25 kit.
ultimateone Posted October 12, 2009 Posted October 12, 2009 I dunno if this is the right place, but is there any place in North America that sells replacement parts for non-Gundam Bandai kits? I want to repair my VF-25 kit. I would fish for an answer everywhere... fugit, one of these guys can fix it. do your best to research, when all else fails, shop around
Chronocidal Posted October 18, 2009 Posted October 18, 2009 Well, same issue as Fatalist, just in a smaller scale. Anyone have tips for tightening a 1/60 v2 VF-1J's head lasers? Both of mine are completely limp when forward, but tighten up when raised to battroid position.
hutch Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 Not really a 'what's wrong'...but does the upper body of the Bandai DX 1/60 VF-25 'lock' into place or is it just kind of 'there'?
mickyg Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 I was going to post almost the exact same thing as you. I also had the leg break. Anyone know of the best way to fix this? Sending it back is no longer an option for me. I thought I did! Some good news (for me) and bad (for anyone else with this sort of breakage). The good news is that Over-drive kindly replaced my broken SV-51, free of charge. Over-dive is in my opinion, THE BEST online Macross retailer I've used so far, and not just because of this little incedent (although it can't hurt). The bad news is that I don't think this can be fixed. I thought this was going to be easy. I was very wrong. The first problem is getting to the screw. The screw cap is most likely glued on, so in the end, I drilled through the cap, in order to loosen the screw. Only my drill bit wasn't big enough to make a proper sized hole so I ended up making a tapered one with the end of my screw driver. That allowed me to extract the broken plastic sleeve so I could glue it back to the opposite half. That went OK with super glue but I thought I would do well to reinforce the screw posts with epoxy. That looked promising. Right up until I realised all the "stuff" that goes into the leg in this area would foul on the epoxy. Luckily the epoxy was only just starting to set up, so I was able to dig it out in areas where the top of the leg fits, and also where the rubber swivel joint gets pressed in. Unfortunately, removing the extra epoxy also removed pretty much all the strengthening I'd added. So when it came time to screw it back together, the internal posts where the screw goes, failed again. No big deal, I though. I'll just super glue the two shell halves together... This won't work either, as there's a great deal of stress placed on the outsides of the shell, due to the ratcheting mechanism in the gerwalk hip joint. So it's now sitting, waiting for the super glue to dry, being held together with electrical tape. I'm sure as soon as I remove the tape and attempt to utilise the ratcheting mechanism, the two halves will pop apart again. So in the end, it was a good excercise, but I'm pretty certain this sort of break on the SV-51 is terminal. Come to think of it, it's probably why Over-drive went back to Yamato for a replacement on my behalf! If anyone's interested in parts, there may be a for sale up soon for this (the broken one).
catcha Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 I attempted to perform "surgery" on my SV-51 Nora the other day as well.. to fix the loose rear flap wing... it actually made things worse as I didn't open the pieces using proper tools (was just using a small screwdriver) causing like marks on the lines... fortunately they are hidden behind the wings most of the time... the good thing is now in battroid mode the wings remain in place instead of dropping down...
Chronocidal Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Assuming you're talking about the folding/rotating tail assembly, my new Nora wasn't bad, but the left tail was a bit limp. I already risked breaking my Alpha fixing its limp tail, so I chose the quick and easy path (and somehow managed to avoid the dark side.. this time). Basically the tail was flopping back a bit easily, so to tighten the joint up, I applied some super glue to a pushpin, and used that to apply a VERY TINY AMOUNT to the shaft the tail rotates on. I rotated the tail around a bit to get the glue spread out, kept rotating it till it dried, and it firmed up that joint nicely. You might be able to do the same for the hinge for the lower fin attached to the tail, if that's what you're trying to fix. Note, the super glue did leave a trace of white residue on the plastic, but it's fairly well hidden.
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