malcos Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 Check this link. http://www.macrossnexus.com/index.php?opti...=188&Itemid=399 419340[/snapback] Thank you so much
kensei Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Did it work? Depending on how mu you ply with it, it might start to crawl up slightly.
malcos Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Did it work?Depending on how mu you ply with it, it might start to crawl up slightly. 419677[/snapback] Yeah, it did work - feels damn heavy with the backpack accessories, though.
kensei Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 That only means you got a genuine product and not a bootleg
Murphy Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 (edited) hey guys i got a question about the vf-0s, you know when you transform it into battiod mode you are supposed to snap the back hatch in (like the 1/48 vf-1) how are you suppose to get it un snapped when transforming it back to fighter? because when i ever do it i put alot of strain on the plastic thats holds it together. http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/v...ructions-16.jpg number 14 is what im talking about how do you un snap it? Edited September 23, 2006 by Murphy
kensei Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 I do it one side at a time like my 1/48s. I push one side to the battroid while pulling on the other side. It should let loose eventually. This helps prevent wear on the nubs too.
MrIsamu Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 Hi Guys, I just picked up a VF-0S, and I have a couple of quality questions The first time I took it out of the box, a little silver screw fell out !! I dont know where its from, and I have checked all the holes I could see, but no missing screws The only thing thats really loose is the 3 booster nossles on the backpack, Could it be from in there ? Or is this normal ? The other thing that is anoying me, is the feet nossles that push back into the leg whenever you touch the valk in Battroid or Gerwalk modes. Is this also par for the course ?? As my first 1/60 (1/48) scale size valk, I must say it looks brilliant !!!! Definitely worth the $ 220 (US) I had to fork out Thanx for a great forum guys, and keep up the good work !!!!
jenius Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 Whoa betty, MrIsamu, you need to do some bargain shopping 'cause that's a lot of cash! Beyond that, I am of no help, but do use the search feature if you haven't already. There were a couple threads where people discussed their VF-0S as they got them and many had a variety of issues not unlike yours.
V2 Assault Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 hello guys. i've just successfully transformed my VF-0S to gerwalk mode for the first time (actually, i've got this baby since its release, and the only thing i've been doing with it is drool over the fighter mode). so far im quite impressed with it and i think im not gonna transform it to battroid mode just yet. however, i noticed that the ball joints for the upper arms is somewhat loose - and it cant seem to "carry" the whole weight of the arm (let alone when you equip the gunpod!). so... 1. is this an issue of the 1/60 VF-0S? if i recall the issue was the loose "swivel point" by the elbow area. 2. i noticed that by the upper arms theres this screw that secures the upper arm to the ball joint. if its possible, im considering to dismantle it and apply some crazyglue over the ball joint and socket area to "tighten" it. (to me, its somewhat unforgivable.) so has anyone ever tried this? thanks in advance!
kensei Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 Only use woodglue, I don't think that crazy glue is such a good idea. Woodglue doesn't make a mess, you can always peel it off and start again. There is white armour aroudn the bicep. You have to find the line and split it in half, there's a scrfew that will allow you to access the joint to put glue in.
MrIsamu Posted October 2, 2006 Posted October 2, 2006 Thanx Jenius I live in South Africa, so theres not a lot I can do about import costs etc Thanx for the info, I'll give the search a go !!
V2 Assault Posted October 2, 2006 Posted October 2, 2006 thanks kensei. i'll try to remove them and apply the woodglue treatment. however, here's something i noticed when im transforming the plane back to fighter mode (from gerwalk - since i didnt push through to battroid mode since i really wanna "enjoy" each mode slowly) - i secured the arms unto the intakes of the backpack and i made sure the "braces" are restored unto their position for fighter mode, and placed all tabs to their respective slots. this is where i start to notice that the arms, somehow arent fitted well and secured. i can tell because when i first removed the toy from the box the arms were secured tight unto the underside. it can be remedied however, if i "forcefully" secure the arms and legs to their respective tabs but somehow i think something's wrong. i've also tried pushing the sliding braces of the arms to see if theres still allowance but it seems thats the limit. i'll try to post pics of it soon. thanks.
kanata67 Posted October 30, 2006 Posted October 30, 2006 Thanx Jenius I live in South Africa, so theres not a lot I can do about import costs etc Thanx for the info, I'll give the search a go !! sure there is... find a sucker in the states who misses table mountain and would happily trade for a suitible quantity of "malpetta" seeds
skull001 Posted December 3, 2006 Posted December 3, 2006 Apologies if this is posted before, the left foot of my Max VF-1A doesn't come out smoothly from fighter to standing mode. I think either the groove or the foot is not molded correctly. In Gerwalk/Batt mode the left foot is loose and won't hold up in a straight line to the lower foot. Any ideas to fix this? Or how to disassemble the lower leg to take a look. Cheers!
Chet Posted December 3, 2006 Posted December 3, 2006 (edited) How do I explain this? Well, basically, half of my reissue Yamato 1/48 VF-1A Hikaru's head just popped off! Brand new straight out of the box, too! Upon inspection, it looks like one of the pegs holding it to the central part of the head broke. Not sure if it was an actual peg or if it was just glue that wasn't applied in enough quantities. Actually, the half does pop right back on, and it pretty much stays on if your not too rough with the toy, but it doesn't sit as "flush as I would like. I've decided I can't be bothered to return it, so I'm going to attempt to repair it myself. However, I've never done this before, so I was hoping to get some tips. What kind of glue should I use? Are there any special precautions I'm supposed to take? Edited December 4, 2006 by Chet
Chet Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 scale? brand? Oops! Sorry about that! It's a reissue 1/48 Yamato VF-1A Hikaru. Edited the original post.
RFT Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 best bet to fix is a dab of cyanoacrylate (Super or Crazy) glue, though obvious make sure none gets near the head laser hinge. I got a 1/48 reissue hikaru 1A (my first 1./48) last week and while its head was ok, one of the upper air intakes kept falling out in battroid. teeny spot of glue sorted it.
Fly4victory Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 Use an hobby knife or nail file to reduce the high areas. The knife on the pins and nail file on the flat surfaces. Then dry fit the parts before using the super glue. best bet to fix is a dab of cyanoacrylate (Super or Crazy) glue, though obvious make sure none gets near the head laser hinge. I got a 1/48 reissue hikaru 1A (my first 1./48) last week and while its head was ok, one of the upper air intakes kept falling out in battroid. teeny spot of glue sorted it.
Chet Posted December 6, 2006 Posted December 6, 2006 Thanks. What should I use to apply the glue? Toothpick? Cotton buds? If I sand down the broken part, where exactly should I dab the glue?
Fly4victory Posted December 6, 2006 Posted December 6, 2006 Have not taken apart a 1A head, would apply the glue in the same location the pins. Just sand or cut down enough for the parts to fit secure then glue... I have ruined enough projects with too much sanding and had to back fill. Super glue fumes can leave a white powdery film so do not use too much. I use toothpicks. Thanks. What should I use to apply the glue? Toothpick? Cotton buds? If I sand down the broken part, where exactly should I dab the glue?
Chet Posted December 8, 2006 Posted December 8, 2006 Hmmm. As it is now, that half of the head that popped off doesn't fit flush with the central part anymore. When you pop it on without glue, the rear part is "elevated" slightly. So I sand down until it fits flush with the rest of the head, to the extent that it won't stay on unless glue is applied? (Hope I'm still making sense)
UN Spacy Posted December 12, 2006 Author Posted December 12, 2006 What's the quickest fix for the 1/60 VF-0S' loose shoulders? Is a quick dab of nail polish good enough? It's really bothering me now that it's in Gerwalk mode because the sagging is annoying.
ghostryder Posted December 13, 2006 Posted December 13, 2006 What's the quickest fix for the 1/60 VF-0S' loose shoulders? Is a quick dab of nail polish good enough? It's really bothering me now that it's in Gerwalk mode because the sagging is annoying. You may want to open up the shoulder to check if it's just loose, or cracked. I developed the same looseness problem and found this... (motherfrack!)
UN Spacy Posted December 13, 2006 Author Posted December 13, 2006 Alright I just checked both shoulder joints and they're intact. Aside from the nail polish dab I think I'm gonna throw some extra cotton inside for a little more resistance.
UN Spacy Posted December 13, 2006 Author Posted December 13, 2006 EDIT: Son of a batch! The other side has noticable stress marks I didn't notice and it just cracked.
aaajin Posted December 13, 2006 Posted December 13, 2006 man, that sucks. sorry to hear that guys... glad I didnt jump in the 0A bandwagon..Im satisfied with my 0S
ghostryder Posted December 13, 2006 Posted December 13, 2006 (edited) EDIT: Son of a batch! The other side has noticable stress marks I didn't notice and it just cracked. OK, I just used some 2-ton epoxy and I think the crack is fixed (for now). Epoxy is much stronger than Krazy glue, and seems to flex a bit to allow the shoulder socket to expand a bit as you jam the ball back in. I think the off-white kind (which I used) is a bit stronger than the clear kind, so you might want to try that. I can at least pull this off without the left arm falling Edited December 15, 2006 by ghostryder
Magnus Posted December 18, 2006 Posted December 18, 2006 I've just ordered a VF-0A for myself for Xmas, and just read this! What do you guys suggest I do to avoid this cracking from happening once I open my figure?
Valkyrie addict Posted December 22, 2006 Posted December 22, 2006 (edited) I must say, using that white glue for wood is one hell of a fix, I was trying to decide between the nail polish and the white glue, but something about the nail polish just didn't convince me, bought myself the glue, and started fixing my 1/60 and a few loose joint on my VF-0S, worked like a charm... by the way, on that loose shoulder of the VF-0S, were the black rubbery thing tends to fall out and leave the joint loose as a gooser, I just cut a pencils eraser but a bit thicker than the black rubbery thingy and replaced it, better than new... Edited December 22, 2006 by Valkyrie addict
nightmareB4macross Posted December 22, 2006 Posted December 22, 2006 I must say, using that white glue for wood is one hell of a fix, I was trying to decide between the nail polish and the white glue, but something about the nail polish just didn't convince me, bought myself the glue, and started fixing my 1/60 and a few loose joint on my VF-0S, worked like a charm... by the way, on that loose shoulder of the VF-0S, were the black rubbery thing tends to fall out and leave the joint loose as a gooser, I just cut a pencils eraser but a bit thicker than the black rubbery thingy and replaced it, better than new... Nice idea on the repair. You could also try using a rubber vaccum plug. It is found in most auto parts places in the "HELP" section. The plugs come in various sizes and can be cut to your needs. The price is only a buck for a set of 12.
do not disturb Posted December 22, 2006 Posted December 22, 2006 are your joints are too loose? nail polish ain't thick enough? when wood glue just won't do? try this stuff! [attachmentid=39199] its like liquid rubber and can form around any ball/socket joint. just put a thin coat, let it set overnight, and it'll last forever. when you want to remove it, just peel it off. it doesn't harm the plastic whatsoever. this is what i've been using for a while now and it works wonders.
V2Assault Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 seems like this "cracking" hands is an issue with the VF-0S... recently while disassembling my VF-0S to "tighten" the arms, i discovered in shock that the left arm socket has this huge crack... so far managed to seal it back with loctite: anyone here can input some additional advice?
Valkyrie addict Posted December 31, 2006 Posted December 31, 2006 you could try some filler to cover the gap, sand it and repaint it...
myk Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 seems like this "cracking" hands is an issue with the VF-0S... recently while disassembling my VF-0S to "tighten" the arms, i discovered in shock that the left arm socket has this huge crack... So, how many times have you transformed or used that arm/shoulder? What I'd like to know is if these shoulders are broken from the factory or develop that condition under use...
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