F14Tomcat Posted February 22, 2005 Posted February 22, 2005 you know im starting to hate the yamato 1/48's for durability as i just broke the bit that hold the fast packs again its BP4 if anyones wondering
zeo-mare Posted February 22, 2005 Posted February 22, 2005 yikes how many people have broke that part anyhow? is there a total yet???
do not disturb Posted February 22, 2005 Posted February 22, 2005 (edited) you know im starting to hate the yamato 1/48's for durability as i just broke the bit that hold the fast packs again its BP4 if anyones wondering i just sold the backpack assemblies to fulcy and goldenboy forever, try PM'ing them with your request and i'm sure they'd be more than willing to help you get the part you need. Try pushing the BP9 past the tabs like shown below. They lock it into place so the backpack won't flop around. This is a necessity if you want to use the "neck brace" for added strength when adding the Super/Strike boosters. If the tabs won't hold, I'm not sure what you should do. the only solution to the tabs getting worn is to get a new back plate fromt eh chest assembly. i have one just in case cause i know when the those tabs give, i'm gonna be SOFL. Edited February 22, 2005 by haterist
shiyao Posted March 22, 2005 Posted March 22, 2005 sasquatch, that doesn't sound like a common problem. do you have any pics?
Chowser Posted March 23, 2005 Posted March 23, 2005 argh, ok, search didn't help me much, probably phrasing it wrong. ok, how in the heck do I get my gunpod to connect to the TV Hikaru Arm armor on the 1/48s? It's always popping out, i've tried different gunpods with no luck. the gunpod connects fine to the DYRL arm armor. this is for fighter mode. thanks
do not disturb Posted March 23, 2005 Posted March 23, 2005 argh, ok, search didn't help me much, probably phrasing it wrong.ok, how in the heck do I get my gunpod to connect to the TV Hikaru Arm armor on the 1/48s? It's always popping out, i've tried different gunpods with no luck. the gunpod connects fine to the DYRL arm armor. this is for fighter mode. thanks you have to cut a bit of the arm armor off...the little plastic part that touches the gunpod grip. i don't know how to describe it but its pretty self-explanitory. just take a thin knife or exacto blade and shave some of it off. if you need a pic, let me know and i'll post it for you tomorrow.
Chowser Posted March 23, 2005 Posted March 23, 2005 figures i would have to play with something sharp. only sharp things i have are katanas. gonna have to make do with a multi-tool knife. ok, that's got it, it fits great now thanks again man!
promethuem5 Posted March 24, 2005 Posted March 24, 2005 You managed to break BP4? really? That part seems pretty strong to me... I;ve beaten it up pretty bad a few times and nothing;s happened... I'm kinda rough with it...
UN Spacy Posted April 9, 2005 Author Posted April 9, 2005 I have a question for all the 1/100 Yamato Koenig Monster owners. Is there ANY way to tighten the arm joints? It's kept in the display case for most of the time and the joints are already loose.
kensei Posted April 9, 2005 Posted April 9, 2005 10 % Acetone or a very low acetone containing nail polish. Just dismantle the arm and lightly brush some on the peg. Air dry for 10 secs and then reassemble. Lightly is the word here.
promethuem5 Posted April 27, 2005 Posted April 27, 2005 Poop.... I think I deserve a medal for quickest and oddest breakage on a 1/48.... I just got my new 3rd ed Roy in the mail, and after taking it out of the box and moving it for the first time I have a hip problem. Screw O ring sepage, this is worse and by far more impressive and spaztacular... I managed to somehow snap off a fragment of the plastic ring around the ball joint, on part BD3... not enough to impare the hip, just enough to piss me off... it snapped about 45 degrees under the spot where the two halves meet in the front, so a bit of ball joint shows but the hip still works as tight as it should be. I'm probably gonna leave it for now, but if it gets worse, I'll have to replace it I put the Strike armor on it already, so it's a static display piece anyways
Deep Blue Posted May 2, 2005 Posted May 2, 2005 I just got my first 1/60 a vf-1a hikaru, and on the shoulder joint the peg wont stay in the hole, and when it is in gerwalk mode the shoulder kinda hangs limp, is there anything I can do to make it stick better?
do not disturb Posted May 4, 2005 Posted May 4, 2005 I just got my first 1/60 a vf-1a hikaru, and on the shoulder joint the peg wont stay in the hole, and when it is in gerwalk mode the shoulder kinda hangs limp, is there anything I can do to make it stick better? try some clear nailpolish for those pesky loose joints.
mojacko Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 i broke the tab on the chest plate of my VF-1S 1:60 ...now i cant seem to transform it to other modes coz it looks limpy and doesnt lock in place....any idea how to fix it??? help needed please!! thanks
Black Valkyrie Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 I would to know which of the bootlegs scale 1/55 accepts original parts from Bandai and Takatoku.
gavin123 Posted May 28, 2005 Posted May 28, 2005 Hi! Anyone in this channel can help me? Recently, i bought a "Super Ostrich 1/60 scale" from a shop in Singapore. To much surprise, i found that i was given two "Right boosters". I have wrote to Yamato, but there was no news. I feel frusturated after spending my money and yet get a faulty Valkyrie. Can anyone help me? I need to get a left booster. My Valkyrie looks damn ugly with only one booster on its back.
mojacko Posted May 28, 2005 Posted May 28, 2005 (edited) [/quote=anyone know how to contact Yamato to replace a right VT-1 1/60 Ostrich booster pack for a left one???? UPDATE!!! I GOT A LEFT BOOSTER FROM YAMATO!!!! haha... i emailed them and the guy said officially Yamato Japan can't do anything since they do'nt have license to sell Macross in the US but unofficially... he sent me a left booster!!! it's complete!! i'll post pics later... teeheehee.... (i'm beaming like a sissy) haha Bee /QUOTE] hey gavin...think you got a similar case here....try mailing yamato...might work.... cheers Edited May 28, 2005 by mojacko
gavin123 Posted May 28, 2005 Posted May 28, 2005 hi there! Thanks for your advice. I did contact USA Yamato and they refer me to Yamato in Japan saying that there is nothing they can do as i am not within their areas. Have not heard anything from Yamato Japan. Guess they may not be able to help me too. Therefore, i really don't know what to do. It's frustrating.....................
EXO Posted May 28, 2005 Posted May 28, 2005 shouldn't who ever you bought it from correct that for you?
gavin123 Posted May 29, 2005 Posted May 29, 2005 This is his last piece. So there is nothing much he can do.
Black Valkyrie Posted September 6, 2005 Posted September 6, 2005 (edited) I want to get a 1/60 GBP Armor VF-1J just for the this valky, it the only 1/60 VF-1J in the market and what I really wanna know if the GBP Armor is any good cuz heard I bad complains about. Edited September 6, 2005 by Black Valkyrie
ghostryder Posted September 7, 2005 Posted September 7, 2005 I just got my first Yamato, a 1/60 Focker. In addition to the usual problems I was expecting (loose legs, difficult chest plate slide), one of the damn wings won't close all the way in battroid mode. Looks like the wing lock tab was installed crooked and warped . I'm looking to return it... it does look sweet, though
kanata67 Posted September 8, 2005 Posted September 8, 2005 I would to know which of the bootlegs scale 1/55 accepts original parts from Bandai and Takatoku. 299580[/snapback] why in the world would you want to do that?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? if you mean which bootlegs can you use for parts to repair your original takatoku or bandai [including jetfire, excepting jetfire's nose cone] I can help. I have swapped many a joon's [ie korean bootleg, taiwanese bootleg [80's version], french valk, matsushiro, etc with great success. Re-issue bandias are the preffered parts source though as it's bandai quality and the current bootlegs [excepting the galaxy defender with which I have no experience] suck ass. You can make an arm or tail section work off a three dollar bootleg but while it "works", it still sucks and won't work for long. If your trying to patch a max or milla use a joon's for anything but legs as originals had more metal than joon's. Repairing anything else use a reissue or cheap jetfire as you can refurb to factory original once you know what your doing. That applies to refurbs... customs are a different matter. Only real issue is doing head swaps. 1s heads being swapped with anything else requires the head AND neck plate be swapped as 1s had a specific neck plate. Jetfire nosecones must be swapped with jetfire nosecones or original nosecones completely... as in you can't make a lower jetfire nose cone merge with a taka upper nosecone [ok.. you can but it looks really disturbing ]. so has spoken the 1/55 necromancer... further questions should be pm'ed
Black Valkyrie Posted September 8, 2005 Posted September 8, 2005 I would to know which of the bootlegs scale 1/55 accepts original parts from Bandai and Takatoku. 299580[/snapback] why in the world would you want to do that?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? if you mean which bootlegs can you use for parts to repair your original takatoku or bandai [including jetfire, excepting jetfire's nose cone] I can help. I have swapped many a joon's [ie korean bootleg, taiwanese bootleg [80's version], french valk, matsushiro, etc with great success. Re-issue bandias are the preffered parts source though as it's bandai quality and the current bootlegs [excepting the galaxy defender with which I have no experience] suck ass. You can make an arm or tail section work off a three dollar bootleg but while it "works", it still sucks and won't work for long. If your trying to patch a max or milla use a joon's for anything but legs as originals had more metal than joon's. Repairing anything else use a reissue or cheap jetfire as you can refurb to factory original once you know what your doing. That applies to refurbs... customs are a different matter. Only real issue is doing head swaps. 1s heads being swapped with anything else requires the head AND neck plate be swapped as 1s had a specific neck plate. Jetfire nosecones must be swapped with jetfire nosecones or original nosecones completely... as in you can't make a lower jetfire nose cone merge with a taka upper nosecone [ok.. you can but it looks really disturbing ]. so has spoken the 1/55 necromancer... further questions should be pm'ed 326833[/snapback] Thanks, BTW if you want more 1/55 valkys toy-wave still have`em
Ignacio Ocamica Posted September 9, 2005 Posted September 9, 2005 I want to get a 1/60 GBP Armor VF-1J just for the this valky, it the only 1/60 VF-1J in the market and what I really wanna know if the GBP Armor is any good cuz heard I bad complains about. 326250[/snapback] The armor is really good!!! I have three and no complaints about them. The armor stays perfectly fine on the valks. The only piece of armor that sometimes falls off (you have to shake the valk) is the crotch piece that covers the nosecone 'cause the pegs are very small. There's two quick solutions: nail lacquer to thicken the pegs or clear tape to hold the two pieces. As you see in the picture I went with the clear tape solution. It takes 5 seconds and you can't notice the tape when you attach the leg. Go ahead and buy the VF-1J with the armor!! You'll also get TV Hikaru pilot since the Super VF-1J came with a DYRL? pilot. The 1/48 VF-1J is going to be released in December so you can buy that one if you just want the valk. I have all the 1/60 releases, and I still love them despite the 1/48. The 1/60 GBP armor is a great addition to the series. I'll buy multiples of the 1/48 too!!!
Black Valkyrie Posted September 10, 2005 Posted September 10, 2005 Thanks Ignacio Ocamica for your comment I`ll get it and the VF-1A CF. I prefer 1/60 over the 1/48, its size is perfect for me, I don`t like huge toys/figures and it contains chogokin parts . I really wish Yamato made a 1/60 Low Viz.
Ignacio Ocamica Posted September 10, 2005 Posted September 10, 2005 You're welcomed The armor looks great on the VF-1A CF!!! And the 1/60 VF-1J is a great toy, I like the head sculpt better than it's 1/48 counterpart.
VF-18S Hornet Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 You wouldn't believe this, after moving back into my sisters home to save on money and cheaper rent I unpacked my Hikaru 1S and after three days and taking pictures with my sisters Digital camera I noticed a crack on outside of the right hip/intake most likely caused when it almost fell because of the loose joints in the legs. if there is anyone out there who have spare parts for the right airintake leg joint in white please PM or e-mail me.
VF-18S Hornet Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 [/quote=anyone know how to contact Yamato to replace a right VT-1 1/60 Ostrich booster pack for a left one???? UPDATE!!! I GOT A LEFT BOOSTER FROM YAMATO!!!! haha... i emailed them and the guy said officially Yamato Japan can't do anything since they do'nt have license to sell Macross in the US but unofficially... he sent me a left booster!!! it's complete!! i'll post pics later... teeheehee.... (i'm beaming like a sissy) haha Bee /QUOTE] hey gavin...think you got a similar case here....try mailing yamato...might work.... cheers 299817[/snapback] Do you have that guys e-mail address.
VF-ZX2 Posted October 16, 2005 Posted October 16, 2005 Could someone show me a diagram of how to put the gray "foot" piece at the bottom of the leg back together. On my Hikaru 1/60 A the piece that connects the foot to the leg broke off so I took the leg and foot apart to glue it back, but when I took the foot piece if you will apart a spring came out. I cannot figure out how to reassemble the foot part now that I have glued the necessary piece back in place. Any help would be much appreciated.
Omni Existence Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 Anyone know what size screws Yamato uses for the VF-11B? After having that beautiful VF-11B of mine in-tact for 4 years, it finally gave in, and broke a hip!!!! I've made some modifications to fix it, but need the size of the screw they are using. Hardware stores here in PI don't seem to have the same sizes in stock. Tried some electronic stores as well, no luck. Any information will definitely help, thanks!
UN Spacy Posted January 13, 2006 Author Posted January 13, 2006 (edited) Got my 48 CF and GBP Armor in the mail. Everything is superb except from a slight imperfection on the head of the CF. The two halves that go over the head sensor are kinda loose. Is super glue the best way to fix this? EDIT: Some of the model sprue was a little chunky on the inside....a little clipping and sanding should work. Edited January 13, 2006 by UN Spacy
nightmareB4macross Posted January 13, 2006 Posted January 13, 2006 Just use regular Elmer's White Glue. The head is not supposed to be glued together on any 1A. Got my 48 CF and GBP Armor in the mail.Everything is superb except from a slight imperfection on the head of the CF. The two halves that go over the head sensor are kinda loose. Is super glue the best way to fix this? EDIT: Some of the model sprue was a little chunky on the inside....a little clipping and sanding should work. 360225[/snapback]
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