Knightdramon Posted April 27, 2010 Posted April 27, 2010 Any word on when the VF-0S and 0A are going to be re-issued? amiami states april for 0S and may for 0A, is that accurate? How about the shoulder pieces? Any word on improving those [or providing the ones that came in later issues of 0S with the fragile 0A]?
GU-11 Posted April 27, 2010 Posted April 27, 2010 Any word on when the VF-0S and 0A are going to be re-issued? amiami states april for 0S and may for 0A, is that accurate? How about the shoulder pieces? Any word on improving those [or providing the ones that came in later issues of 0S with the fragile 0A]? HLJ's earlier June release has turned into a code red "backordered" status. Might be a delay on Yamato's part, or lack of stock. Haven't heard much news about the shoulder hinges, though. Hopefully, we'll know if they got rid of the knurled pins once a review pops up after release. Personally, I won't be pre-ordering any MacZero VF-0's until I'm certain those shoulders aren't going to explode.
m0n5t3r Posted April 28, 2010 Posted April 28, 2010 HLJ's earlier June release has turned into a code red "backordered" status. Might be a delay on Yamato's part, or lack of stock. Haven't heard much news about the shoulder hinges, though. Hopefully, we'll know if they got rid of the knurled pins once a review pops up after release. Personally, I won't be pre-ordering any MacZero VF-0's until I'm certain those shoulders aren't going to explode. it's the upper arm/bicep area that was the problem w/ the VF-0s... AFAIK, it's already been addressed since the last VF-0S Focker release... and some were even able to order fixed replacements when OD was still offering the service. IMHO, the shoulder hinges for the VF-0s and 1/48s are the most sturdy out of all Yamato's valks.
GU-11 Posted April 28, 2010 Posted April 28, 2010 it's the upper arm/bicep area that was the problem w/ the VF-0s... AFAIK, it's already been addressed since the last VF-0S Focker release... and some were even able to order fixed replacements when OD was still offering the service. IMHO, the shoulder hinges for the VF-0s and 1/48s are the most sturdy out of all Yamato's valks. Thanks for the heads-up! Gosh, I feel ignorant.
ff95gj Posted May 5, 2010 Posted May 5, 2010 Hi, OD has ceased their replacement service right? Are there any other channels we may ask for replacements? Thanks!
m0n5t3r Posted May 6, 2010 Posted May 6, 2010 Hi, OD has ceased their replacement service right? Are there any other channels we may ask for replacements? Thanks! +1 me too!... i need me a replacement left vertical stab for my 1/60 VF-1S focker. any chance Graham's alternate source could be the new replacement parts service?
David Hingtgen Posted May 6, 2010 Posted May 6, 2010 Unlikely, sorry. That was pretty much a one-time batch of shoulder hinges and nothing but.
chiryuu Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Can I get some advice on this? My vf-25s armored developed cracks through the hinge where the back folds. This would be the ones at the very 'back' of the shoulders where the back plate hangs off of in battroid - the one with the big metal circles in the joint. So far it's holding steady, but it irks me that such an expensive piece developed damage (note that I said I'm irked, but not really surprised ). It looks pretty secure still, with no stress marks other than the crack. Should I just leave it alone? Or should I try layering it with cement just to join it again? Any tips on this would be much appreciated. I've read that ABS really has to be welded back together instead of applying superglue. This doesn't guarantee that it wouldn't happen again though, hence my apprehension. Could it be due to the weight of the boosters hanging off and stressing it? Improper handling during transformation? I've never transformed it much since I got it (having the armor on pretty much killed that feature), but I have left it on the stand in fighter and battroid modes for some lengths of time.
David Hingtgen Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Inherent design flaw with the DX -25, the armor is just too heavy---it is caused simply by standing there in battroid mode.
VF-18S Hornet Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 After getting a new wing for my VF-1J Hikaru I took off the armor and transformed it back into fighter mode I put on the missiles from my other VF-1J but became apparent to me the they were on too tight which did not happen with the missles that came with it with the exception of the pods and know three of the nubs on the missles broken off and are now stunk in the wings Yamato made the holes in the wing hardpoints a mm small this also happened with my VE-1 with the missile pods Now I thinking of buying another 1J for spare parts and to replace the broken missiles for my other 1J.
Vi-RS Posted May 12, 2010 Posted May 12, 2010 After getting a new wing for my VF-1J Hikaru I took off the armor and transformed it back into fighter mode I put on the missiles from my other VF-1J but became apparent to me the they were on too tight which did not happen with the missles that came with it with the exception of the pods and know three of the nubs on the missles broken off and are now stunk in the wings Yamato made the holes in the wing hardpoints a mm small this also happened with my VE-1 with the missile pods Now I thinking of buying another 1J for spare parts and to replace the broken missiles for my other 1J. You should claim some commas and full stops from yamato too.
VF-18S Hornet Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 You should claim some commas and full stops from yamato too. geez were you proof reading my post, so I, forgot, I, was, tired.
Black Valkyrie Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 My VF-1A (Hikaru)1/60 ver. 02 yesterday I've transformed it, the last time was four months ago, now shoulder cracks appeared, the right hip joint became really loose and the chest plate doesn't really hold in fighter mode. Am I going to repair it ... No.
ajis Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) just got the re-issue VF-0S, still floppy like before but alas, it's great valk btw, does anyone here suffered center breakage for Yamato YF-19 1/60 scale? got mine just now... Edited May 15, 2010 by ajis
m0n5t3r Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) just got the re-issue VF-0S, still floppy like before but alas, it's great valk btw, does anyone here suffered center breakage for Yamato YF-19 1/60 scale? got mine just now... like this - http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=143&view=findpost&p=660781 screw that's on that side only might be turned too tight. Edited May 15, 2010 by m0n5t3r
Macross_Fanboy Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 My 0S is fine, just the right hand seems floppy.
mandol Posted May 25, 2010 Posted May 25, 2010 imagine the utter shock that i got when the right thigh of my sv 51 nora exploded the very few times i transformed it frm fighter mode.it gave an extremely loud bam when i bend the knees to gerwalk form without first extending it out which i forgot.the front thigh piece flew off, along with the lower leg which crashed down to earth in a heap.i gathered up whatever senses that was left and immediately set to super glue(a generous amount in fact) the broken parts back.shock number two came when my dad came to me three days later to ask me whether this small piece of metal rod belongs to one of my toys.this time i went a little CRAZY when i went to unscrew the other leg and found it had a similar piece of metal rod. well what the heck lol.hope every sv 51 owners can learn from this nightmare of mine
Macross_Fanboy Posted May 26, 2010 Posted May 26, 2010 Fortunately my SV-51 didn't suffer like others upon transformation. I left Nora in Battroid since then. DD is in fighter mode still. Anyways, any tips on what adhesive is good for glueing on the small socket for the flap on the 1/60 VF-1 backpack? I stripped off the armor and transforming it back to Fighter mode it broke off after I brought the backpack up and down several times. For some reason on some of my Valks they pop and on others they don't, unfortunately this pop was not a good one by far. At least it's not something critical to the transformation so it still looks nice in fighter mode. And also, once it's glued on, how to get the flap back in without breaking off the repaired piece??
Gunpod71 Posted May 26, 2010 Posted May 26, 2010 Didnt know this thread was still up. Mods you can move that VE-1 QC thread to here. Anyway just got the 1/60 v2 VE-1 a couple weeks ago and I ended up only with two right leg side armor. The left armor wasnt in the box. One of our members macross_fanboy also had the same problem as well.
Chronocidal Posted May 28, 2010 Posted May 28, 2010 Ok, since the VF-0A got re-released (assuming the CF not the Shin) is there any chance of getting a spare set of parts from anywhere? We all know about how the shoulders tended to be made of some type of plastic that likes to disintegrate, but... well, that's only a small part of the problem for me. I noticed the cracking shoulders on mine long ago, and just left it in fighter mode for a long time, but I figured I might take it apart today and see if there's any way to reinforce the thing. Unfortunately.. well.. nothing has outright broken yet.. but after taking it apart, it seems like nearly all of the load bearing joints in this thing are made of the same explodium as the shoulders. On disassembling it, both shoulders, the upper arm twist joints, and both halves of both knees are getting ready to completely shatter. There are cracks running clear across both of the double knee joints (the upper part of the thigh twist joint). On top of this.. the main shoulder hinges are made of this same plastic, and they're showing some nasty stress marks. Over all, the places this plastic is used are numerous: the fast packs, the intake covers, hands, shoulders, main fuselage shoulder plates (including the clips to hold the hip bar in fighter), all three sections of the knee joints, inner section of the backpack, the head mounting plate all use it. Basically any dark grey plastic except the canopy cover seems to be the same brittle plastic. So, I guess I'm wondering two things. 1. Do the re-releases use this same crappy plastic in the same places, or is it higher quality stuff like in the newer v2 VF-1s? 2. What are the odds of being able to get a replacements for both arm and leg assemblies? Because of the way things are glued together and screws are covered, I can't really separate the individual parts that need to be fixed. It basically amounts to replacing the entire arm from the shoulder pivot down, and the entire leg starting at the thigh. My plan was to reinforce things as best I can by taking things apart and super-gluing everything.. but to get where I'd need to put the glue would absolutely destroy the parts.
Hikuro Posted June 11, 2010 Posted June 11, 2010 Well after nearly 2 years of owning mine, my VF-1S Roy is close to hitting the crapper. I just noticed while cleaning him up has cracked plastic hinges on both arms at the bottom. However he hasn't bit the big one just yet. I'm currently trying to crazy glue those areas while not touching the rods. Good news is it's just the corners and not the entire hinge holding him together. I gotta check my Hikaru VF-1A but I'm sure the new Max I just bought will be ok.
Chronocidal Posted June 12, 2010 Posted June 12, 2010 If the plastic didn't completely shatter, you could potentially fix him by gluing the hinge and making new pins.
Hikuro Posted June 12, 2010 Posted June 12, 2010 (edited) well the pins are fine, but the bottoms are completely cracked and I've tried crazy glue and it didn't really work. Guess I can just try it again. Ya, I just need to buy a new one. Anyone wanna spot me 160? Edited June 12, 2010 by Hikuro
maximilian_jenius Posted June 13, 2010 Posted June 13, 2010 no one respond in the topic, maybe here I get respond Yesterday I recived my VF-22 Max. I transform the valk to battloid once, the when I was trying to transform to fighter I notice that the little tab that clips the belly plate to the down section of the valk has some stress marks (photo as reference) Then I took my YF-21 and I saw the same problem, not easy to see because the dark navy blue color. Then I remind that the 19 have another Tab in the back of the cockpit that suffer extra stress when we transform the YF. I "think" that in the 21 and 22 is not too critical if the tab broke, but is critical in the 19. What do you thing about this? the plastic is strong to endure the trasnformation?, is critical to the fighter form in the 21 and 22? I have my max 22 in the box right now, becuase I don't want to screw it
Chronocidal Posted June 13, 2010 Posted June 13, 2010 Actually, I don't think I would worry about that tab on the 21/22. In fact, I considered filing those tabs down on my YF-21, because they got in the way.. they're just too big to let the belly plates rotate easily to unfold the legs. With all the pressure on those when trying to pull the belly plates out, I'm not surprised they would get stressed, but I don't think they're absolutely necesary for anything. The plates attach in several other places, and they're held in pretty firmly.
Shaorin Posted June 13, 2010 Posted June 13, 2010 (edited) i have a 1/60v.2 VF-1J Hikaru T.V. with the crotch area problem. is here any way that i may obtain a replacement 1J Hik T.V. cockpit module so that i could retrofit my existing 1J? if not, can someone tell me if the 1/60v.2 VF-1J Hikaru T.V. with super/strike parts has the new crotch mechanism? Edited June 13, 2010 by Shaorin
maximilian_jenius Posted June 13, 2010 Posted June 13, 2010 Actually, I don't think I would worry about that tab on the 21/22. In fact, I considered filing those tabs down on my YF-21, because they got in the way.. they're just too big to let the belly plates rotate easily to unfold the legs. maybe you could wait until they came down by it self. I try to ask for replacements but I Haven't quen piece n° of the belly plat or leg, because neather 21/22 blocket instruction have those details With all the pressure on those when trying to pull the belly plates out, I'm not surprised they would get stressed, but I don't think they're absolutely necesary for anything. The plates attach in several other places, and they're held in pretty firmly. yes, there is another 4 tabs (two in the plate bottom and two more in the side that attach to the forearm) and there is two clips to attach the left plate to the right. But I don't know if the front side came down if I cut the stress tabs Let's suppose that the piece is breaks. do you have another solution? or you thing in the same way like Chronocidal?. I was wondering if I glued the broken piece, it will loose it again so I think, maybe if I bolted a little metal tab?
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 16, 2010 Posted June 16, 2010 Well, I finally got replacement arms for my CF-0A, took two days after finally making the phone call to them. Good thing I had my wife tell Yamato they exploded upon first transformation because Yamato was going to charge me about 2500 yen per arm, that:s plus shipping. Luckily they realized what the problem was I guess and sent them for free with a postage paid envelope to return to old explodium arms. Great customer service. It kind of felt like I was working on an aircraft and ordering parts for it in that I have to give the old, broken stuff to supply or I level maintenance before I could get a new one.
GU-11 Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 Well, I finally got replacement arms for my CF-0A, took two days after finally making the phone call to them. Good thing I had my wife tell Yamato they exploded upon first transformation because Yamato was going to charge me about 2500 yen per arm, that:s plus shipping. Luckily they realized what the problem was I guess and sent them for free with a postage paid envelope to return to old explodium arms. Great customer service. It kind of felt like I was working on an aircraft and ordering parts for it in that I have to give the old, broken stuff to supply or I level maintenance before I could get a new one. Dude, I hope you were referring to the old 2006 VF-0A CF, because the 2010 reissue I ordered just shipped out yesterday.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 Don't worry, mine was old stock that I took a chance on just this past X-mas, now I got a problem with the VF-1D I got in the mail from HLJ. I was putting it through its paces. When trying to transform it to Battroid mode the legs would not come off at the peg and when I eventually got it the peg came off and separated from one half of the intake as the intake began to split down the middle. I guess is muscle-farted it, but the other leg came loose as it normally would after the other split. Looks like it had to much tension or the mold for the peg was a bit to thick. I'm gonna give Yamato a call to see what they'll do about it.
GU-11 Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 Don't worry, mine was old stock that I took a chance on just this past X-mas, now I got a problem with the VF-1D I got in the mail from HLJ. I was putting it through its paces. When trying to transform it to Battroid mode the legs would not come off at the peg and when I eventually got it the peg came off and separated from one half of the intake as the intake began to split down the middle. I guess is muscle-farted it, but the other leg came loose as it normally would after the other split. Looks like it had to much tension or the mold for the peg was a bit to thick. I'm gonna give Yamato a call to see what they'll do about it. Oh gosh, good news regarding the VF-0A, but potentially worrying news regarding the VF-1D, because I also ordered that one while it was on low stock. While transforming my VF-0S for the first time, I also noticed that the "thigh" part around the intake needed a touch of glue, as it would split apart at the seams whenever I try to ease or twist it free of the body. Sheesh, it's bad enough that these parts are just glued together instead of using screws; can't they at least make sure it's actually GLUED?
boyarque Posted June 18, 2010 Posted June 18, 2010 Hi MF, seems ur problem with the VF-1D is same with what I was facing last nite. I just opened my 1/60 Hikaru's Super VF-1J, and after I attached the leg armor in jet mode, and after installing the leg armor I found it was really hard to unpeg the leg from the main body. After carefull jigling, I managed to bring both leg down for battroid mode. Then I want to transform it to battroid mode, and that's where I'm almost frustrated by how tight the intake peg is! Afraid to break anything, I try to loosen it much like how u loosen your tooth from its socket, left n right, and suddenly with an audible CLACK! , I succeeded...phew! So I agree with ur assumption, might be the peg was too tight fitting...
Chronocidal Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Which attachment point are you talking about in the first part above? If it's the rear joint that you disengage for gerwalk (the one where the fast pack or leg snaps underneath the wing), I've always had a tried and true method for doing that without just pulling. Basically, I pull the wings out, and press the tip of a thumb into the small crevice between the fastpack or leg with my fingernail against the leg, and press down gently with my other fingers near the foot. The finger acts like a wedge to disengage the big tab, and it generally pushes the leg down without much trouble at all.
Macross_Fanboy Posted June 20, 2010 Posted June 20, 2010 I was talking about the intake peg in my post. Yamato's customer service changed times and days of service so now i have to wait till Monday damn it. I hope they can replace it because I don't want to put up with this issue since it's the one VF-1 I've been wanting for a while.
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