HoveringCheesecake Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the input. I guess it's not much of a big fuss then. What did you used to chip away at it anyway? I used some really diluted rubbing alcohol, but I think that may have affected the plastic somewhat so if you want to be certain I think water and a Q-tip will work. Takes a little elbow grease, but that way you know you won't damage the plastic. Edited January 13, 2010 by meh_cd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondo Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 just noticed the flaking canopy film on my vf-1s roy yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 Juz tranformed my VF-22S Gamrin to battroid & back to fighter mode. Both legs got problem sitting flushed into the body or fuselage. Getting pretty annoyed with this. Wonder I miss any steps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) Juz tranformed my VF-22S Gamrin to battroid & back to fighter mode. Both legs got problem sitting flushed into the body or fuselage. Getting pretty annoyed with this. Wonder I miss any steps? http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...87&hl=yf-21 http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...26&hl=yf-21 Edited January 27, 2010 by m0n5t3r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 mOn5t3r, thank you very much for the links....seldom come to this thread & this is the 1st time I transform a 22S. Thank again pal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Need some help guys since I damaged my vf os I contacted HLJ to order so some replacement parts they are requesting a parts number.I have the manual open, however I don't see the a parts list should I just give a description. the gray part of the backpack were the back flaps hang broke and the back flap broke. Also a brass colored metal screw that joins the big white colored metal joint thing that keeps the legs and the body together broke. Some thing so small could bring down this giant. I was just wondering as to the wording I need to give them since they want a description. Any help will be great. I was just gonna ask for the white hinge and a back pack to keep it simple since. What do you think. Maybe some on can read me the Japanese in the manual and give me a better description Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vi-RS Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Need some help guys since I damaged my vf os I contacted HLJ to order so some replacement parts they are requesting a parts number.I have the manual open, however I don't see the a parts list should I just give a description. the gray part of the backpack were the back flaps hang broke and the back flap broke. Also a brass colored metal screw that joins the big white colored metal joint thing that keeps the legs and the body together broke. Some thing so small could bring down this giant. I was just wondering as to the wording I need to give them since they want a description. Any help will be great. I was just gonna ask for the white hinge and a back pack to keep it simple since. What do you think. Maybe some on can read me the Japanese in the manual and give me a better description I think you need to learn how to write before you tell them what you need. Picture with description work the best, but of course you should mark the picture properly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I think you need to learn how to write before you tell them what you need. Picture with description work the best, but of course you should mark the picture properly... Sorry I wrote the previous post in a hurry. Hi guys I was hoping I could get some advice regarding my VF0S. I damaged the backpack flap and the white metal hinge that connects the body of the model to the legs. I have already contact HLJ and they requested that I provide them with a part number however, the manual provided does not contain a parts list and as such I can not provide them with one. The manual is in Japanese which makes it difficult to find a description of the part something Yamato would recognize. Any suggestions beyond the taking a photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dio Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 mOn5t3r, thank you very much for the links....seldom come to this thread & this is the 1st time I transform a 22S. Thank again pal! Likewise, thanks to all who posted vids and pictures... I unfortunately put a few small stress marks in my Gamlin VF-22S before throwing my hands in the air and coming here for help, but the two things that helped me most were the "pinhole in the knee" discussion and the video showing the cockpit sliding into Battloid configuration (what I was doing to try and get the Battroid head transformed before seeing that vid, I think several members around here would have me flogged over). Now my Gammy is solid in all modes, and while I am incredibly pleased with it in general I wish the instructions were a little less vague (they get about a 90% in my book, but seem to leave out the little things I had trouble with) and I also wish the valk was a little more... tolerant of noobs? Whenever I get around to buying a VF-11C I hope it's a little more user-friendly and simple... and this is coming from a guy with an advanced engineering degree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 (edited) K, I'm curious about VF-0 releases, and the re-release coming up. I know the first VF-0A was NOT Shin, and the second was. Are they re-releasing both, or just the Shin version? And, if only the Shin version, are there any differences in color between the arms of the two? Recently got a VF-0A CF, and the shoulders are holding out, but just barely, so I might try and order replacements from the re-released A. Edit: After a bit of looking.. ok, I know the shoulders are the big problem on the VF-0, but has anyone ever had their upper knee joint just... well, shatter? It looks like the secondary knee joint (the upper portion that pulls out of the thigh) is made of the same explodium as the shoulders. I pulled the knee down into gerwalk, and noticed a huge crack running across the piece. Taking it apart completely, it looks like the piece is about to completely shatter, from the stress marks criss-crossing the inside. Has anyone ever had this particular thing happen? It's a joint that's not used as often as the shoulders, so I could see it being missed. Better yet, does anyone know if Yamato changed the material for that piece when they fixed the shoulders? Edited February 14, 2010 by Chronocidal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcpaz Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hi everyone, it's been a while since I don't get into the forums, and it looks like overdrive service has been shut down. Yesterday I notice my 1/60 YF-19 has a partially broken shoulder. Has anyone had the same problem? Is there any way to get a replacement? Thanks in advance, Manu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twich Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Hello, I recently got a Yamato 1/60 SV-51a Mass Production model toy. I just transformed it for the first time from fighter to battroid mode, and noticed that the legs and arms and the stabilizers are really loose and floppy. Is there anyway, short of disassembly to correct the problem? Thanks! Twich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondo Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 well, I finally tried to transform my 1/60 vf-1s fokker. I had been holding off doing so because of the shoulder crack. I added crazy glue and gave it a go. This thing was a nightmare to transform! I never could get the crotch to actually fit in to the nose cone, the neck wouldn't fully sit down and the shoulders just flopped around like a mess. Honestly, I don't know why these are held up so highly. Unless yamato figures this all out, I'm going back to 1/48. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcpaz Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hello, I recently got a Yamato 1/60 SV-51a Mass Production model toy. I just transformed it for the first time from fighter to battroid mode, and noticed that the legs and arms and the stabilizers are really loose and floppy. Is there anyway, short of disassembly to correct the problem? Thanks! Twich Hi, when I first got Nora's SV-51 on hands, I felt very dissapointed with its floppiness. But there's an easy fix: a couple of screws that need to be tightened. A year and a half later, I didn't need to touch any single screw on this magnificent toy, and I'm still able to play with it! Guess the mass production suffers the same illness. You know, a screwdriver can be a yamato's best friend! Manu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twich Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Thanks for the screw-tightening suggestion! Will give it a whirl Twich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuinJester Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Thanks for the screw-tightening suggestion! Will give it a whirl Twich Be very careful if you do, though. There's a number of people in this thread who have had the thighs on their SV-51's BREAK because of over-tightened screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macross_Fanboy Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I'm gonna have to try tightening the screws too, I got my SV-51 Ivanov in the mail today and I've had the Nora version for a few months and haven't touched it since transforming it to Battroid mode. I was thinking a remedy for the floppiness would be a little bit of clear nail polish as some people have tried with the YF-19. I haven't tried it with my YF-19's arms, they're not that floppy, but I can get the pose I want with it. I have similar thoughts on the VF-0 re-release, I ordered the 0S and hope I can transform it without fear of breaking it, my CF-0A has cracks in the shoulders when I tried Gerwalk and I quickly put it back into Fighter mode. I also wonder if the re-release is Shin's 0 or the CF-0 I bought thinking it was Shin's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaorin Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 i don't get it. what's the deal? i've had my 1/60 1J Hikaru for well over a year now, with countless transformations and absolutely ZERO signs of damage in the shoulders... in fact, this model has long since proven itself to be head and shoulders above any other VF-1 scale replica i've ever had, and i've had them all, save for the 1/72 HCM. despite their repeated engineering gaffes in the past, YAMATO has been nothing short a total divine blessing for MACROSS fans. i fully intend to be adding the 1S Fokker to my collection, with the VF-11B, YF-19 and YF-21 thereafter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macross_Fanboy Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Same here, all 14 of my VF-1s are fine too, even if I don't transform somme more than others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GU-11 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 (edited) Just wanted to post a heads-up in case anyone here encounters a similar problem with the one I had with my VF-22S Gamlin. Remember that post I wrote about the Gamlin's cockpit area refusing to budge during transformation (yeah, the thread that got locked because it wasn't posted here)? Well, I attempted a DIY fix, and I finally found the real problem. Using this pic from Scorched Earth as a reference (sorry, my digital camera's still with my sister, and my camera phone is out of memory): Notice how the cockpit slides up and over the nose? Well, mine refused to budge. I removed the head section of the Gamlin to get a better view from above, and started prying at what would be the Battroid's "collarbones" if it were human, hoping to separate the parts I thought were glued together, or at least get a better look of what was inside. To my surprise, the whole cockpit area started to move, and I was able to force it into place. It turns out, there's a mechanism under the cockpit that's responsible for sliding the cockpit, and it's hinged by a screw on each side. The screws were turned in WAY too tight, which made it nearly impossible to move. I had to loosen the screws by almost three rotations before the cockpit will slide smoothly. Well, at least it got fixed. Edited April 14, 2010 by GU-11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutch Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I got a YF-19 Double Nuts today. Love it for the most part, however one question. Is there any way the upper body will lock? Mine is completely loose and floppy. The tab that's supposed to 'lock' the nose does no such thing. Help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macross_Fanboy Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I got a YF-19 Double Nuts today. Love it for the most part, however one question. Is there any way the upper body will lock? Mine is completely loose and floppy. The tab that's supposed to 'lock' the nose does no such thing. Help? I think some of the guys used clear nail polish, I haven't tried it for my self, I got the regular YF-19. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Adding clear polish to that tab will only increase the "locking ability" of the torso by like 2%. It will only hold it together against "breathing nearby", whereas a MISB version will come apart if you "look at it funny". Still worth doing IMHO, as anything's better than the UTTER floppiness that they have stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GU-11 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I got a YF-19 Double Nuts today. Love it for the most part, however one question. Is there any way the upper body will lock? Mine is completely loose and floppy. The tab that's supposed to 'lock' the nose does no such thing. Help? I own a YF-19 Double Nuts, myself. Despite all appearances, the tab does nothing to lock the body in place. I'm not sure if mine's just an isolated case, but the flap behind the battroid's neck that's supposed to slide down and cover the neck parts in jet mode is extremely tight, and refuses come down. Anyone else with this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutch Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I'm such a maroon. I was converting Vermillion squad to fighter mode tonight and I broke that little tab on the inside of the left hip/intake of my VF-1J. I don't think it does that much to hold the hip where it needs to be but it just ticks me off. My own fault of ham handed handling. BAH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moofie Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I have been a good noob and searched the forum, but haven't found an answer. I just picked up the first generation 1/60 Yamato VE-1 Elintseeker. I'm having some trouble with the battroid mode heat shield. I'm having trouble sliding the breastplate down over the back-seater's head. If I remove the heat shield, the breastplate slides down nicely, but the pilots are exposed to enemy fire, and that's bad. With the heat shield in place, I'm scared to force the breastplate to flex upwards in order to slide into position so the locking latch fits into the little notch on the heat shield. I've got another 1/60 (with the GBP-1 armor) and I don't have this problem. It looks like the sculpt is different due to the two-seat cockpit. Any suggestions how I can transform this guy without breaking anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 The neck flap is extremely hard to pull out of the head in all releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GU-11 Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 The neck flap is extremely hard to pull out of the head in all releases. Make that near impossible. Damn near tore my nail off, trying to get the thing out...and it's still in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robopimp Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Just got back from my vacation to the Philippines on April 15th & was lucky enough to come across 4 different valks which happen to be on the top of my never ending "WANTED" list. I have transformed all of them several times & have had no problems whatsoever with the exception of my favorite one, The 1/60 VF-1D v2. I was still on the islands when the damage occured. The shoulder hinge cracked & broke off when I attempted to transform the toy for the first time After realizing that I reversed the transformation process & just put it back in the box. I figured I'd deal with it later when I got back to the states. Is it just me or is the v2 VF-1D made with cheaper plastic? It seems a bit more delicate compared to the other two I bought. A good friend of mine recommended me to try using Loctite super glue for all plastics. He said it was strong enough to repair his turn signal on his motorcycle. I had my doubts but I was ready to try something & this seemed like the way to go. Unfortunately the repair didn't hold up (E) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncing boy77 Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Just got back from my vacation to the Philippines on April 15th & was lucky enough to come across 4 different valks which happen to be on the top of my never ending "WANTED" list. I have transformed all of them several times & have had no problems whatsoever with the exception of my favorite one, The 1/60 VF-1D v2. I was still on the islands when the damage occured. The shoulder hinge cracked & broke off when I attempted to transform the toy for the first time After realizing that I reversed the transformation process & just put it back in the box. I figured I'd deal with it later when I got back to the states. Is it just me or is the v2 VF-1D made with cheaper plastic? It seems a bit more delicate compared to the other two I bought. A good friend of mine recommended me to try using Loctite super glue for all plastics. He said it was strong enough to repair his turn signal on his motorcycle. I had my doubts but I was ready to try something & this seemed like the way to go. Unfortunately the repair didn't hold up (E) hey, a kababayan! its because of the knurled pins on the shoulder pins used. sadly, the 1D is one of the valks manufactured with this defect. you can find more info about it here: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=32126 hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macross_Fanboy Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I own a YF-19 Double Nuts, myself. Despite all appearances, the tab does nothing to lock the body in place. I'm not sure if mine's just an isolated case, but the flap behind the battroid's neck that's supposed to slide down and cover the neck parts in jet mode is extremely tight, and refuses come down. Anyone else with this problem? I got a YF-19 DN yesterday before coming home from a stay in the city and it transformed easily, I might just be yours. I like this version of the YF-19, looks a lot better than the original with the FPs. Diggin the tight arms and shoulders, not VF-11 status, but better the original 19. All that's left is the Bird of Prey version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GU-11 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I got a YF-19 DN yesterday before coming home from a stay in the city and it transformed easily, I might just be yours. I like this version of the YF-19, looks a lot better than the original with the FPs. Diggin the tight arms and shoulders, not VF-11 status, but better the original 19. All that's left is the Bird of Prey version. I don't think it's just mine, bro. Check out David_Hingtgen's post. As for the DN, yeah, I also prefer its blue-white-black color scheme a lot more than the original's beige. In terms of quality, it's supposed to be better than the early releases in original colors (recent re-releases are reported to be on par with the DN and BoP, and the "angled gunpod" problem is also fixed). That said, I'm still waiting for the eventual day when HLJ would place the original colored YF-19 re-release on clearance sale, for completion's sake, if nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macross_Fanboy Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I don't think it's just mine, bro. Check out David_Hingtgen's post. As for the DN, yeah, I also prefer its blue-white-black color scheme a lot more than the original's beige. In terms of quality, it's supposed to be better than the early releases in original colors (recent re-releases are reported to be on par with the DN and BoP, and the "angled gunpod" problem is also fixed). That said, I'm still waiting for the eventual day when HLJ would place the original colored YF-19 re-release on clearance sale, for completion's sake, if nothing else. Well, his is weird too. I got the re-release version and the left arm is quite floppy as well as the fighter mode, I found that flying the DN around was much better than the original. I wanna fix the problems, but all those how-tos get buried with a bunch of other posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Well.. one problem with the YF-19 in general is that they used a ton of glue to hold it together. Short of prying the entire shoulder assemblies apart, there's nothing you can really do to tighten them up. Mine are too floppy to hold their own weight up, let alone a gunpod. Frankly... I've kinda come to terms with the YF-19... or maybe just given up. I didn't pay nearly full price for it, so I don't mind too much. But I can't see myself spending any more money on that mold. Compared with Yamato's more recent work, it's just an incredibly flawed design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GU-11 Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Well, his is weird too. I got the re-release version and the left arm is quite floppy as well as the fighter mode, I found that flying the DN around was much better than the original. I wanna fix the problems, but all those how-tos get buried with a bunch of other posts. Just great. I guess I can forget about buying the re-release, then...unless it goes on 40% discount like the Nora. At full price, it's just not worth taking the risk of owning a fig with floppy limbs. CHRONOCIDAL: Well.. one problem with the YF-19 in general is that they used a ton of glue to hold it together. Short of prying the entire shoulder assemblies apart, there's nothing you can really do to tighten them up. Mine are too floppy to hold their own weight up, let alone a gunpod. Frankly... I've kinda come to terms with the YF-19... or maybe just given up. I didn't pay nearly full price for it, so I don't mind too much. But I can't see myself spending any more money on that mold. Compared with Yamato's more recent work, it's just an incredibly flawed design. Gosh, it makes me wonder if they even HAVE a QC department in those factories. Incidentally, it seems Takara's moved its factories from China to Vietnam, supposedly to cut costs due to rising labor expenses in China. You can find the post in TF2005.com . It would be interesting to see if Vietnam makes better quality figs than China. If so, Yamato would do well to follow in Takara's footsteps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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