Fatalist Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 OK, I did a search and I even skimmed through this topic and couldnt come up with anything on my small issue. I'm sure its been discussed before, but just want to get some pointers and/or clarification. I have a 1/48 Millia where the Boosters are loose when plugged into the backpack. Is it just a simple coating of clear nail polish to solve this? Also, the intakes when in fighter mode very loosely plug in. So much so that I can pick it up at times and they can easily seperate from the underside of the chest plate. Not completely loose, but its noticeable. Same solution as the backpacks? Thanks for any info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 The intakes in fighter mode...meaning the ones at the tip-top of the legs when in battroid? Or the ones literally connected to what becomes the battroid chest? One of my intakes on the battroid chest on my Stealth 1J has a tendency to come out if I rub her the wrong way - it's not broken and it doesn't fall out or anything without reason - but if you apply small pressure to the area then it does. However, because there is no reason for it to be loose, you can super glue it into place. I don't/won/didn't because it really happened only once or twice and it's not a critical failure problem. If you're talking about the intakes on the tip tops of the legs - that's another issue. All of my 1/48s have super tight intakes and no problems on that front. My YF-19 has one intake which likes to jump out and wander around. But then again, I also have crooked gunpod syndrome. My YF-19 was likely one of the very first ones to come off the assembly lines - I got it literally the same week it came out for the first time. I have to get a second one - hopefully its' gun will be big and straight and its' intake cover won't come off. hmm... that just sounds wrong Mr. Lingerie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatalist Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 The intakes in fighter mode...meaning the ones at the tip-top of the legs when in battroid? Or the ones literally connected to what becomes the battroid chest? One of my intakes on the battroid chest on my Stealth 1J has a tendency to come out if I rub her the wrong way - it's not broken and it doesn't fall out or anything without reason - but if you apply small pressure to the area then it does. However, because there is no reason for it to be loose, you can super glue it into place. I don't/won/didn't because it really happened only once or twice and it's not a critical failure problem. If you're talking about the intakes on the tip tops of the legs - that's another issue. All of my 1/48s have super tight intakes and no problems on that front. My YF-19 has one intake which likes to jump out and wander around. But then again, I also have crooked gunpod syndrome. My YF-19 was likely one of the very first ones to come off the assembly lines - I got it literally the same week it came out for the first time. I have to get a second one - hopefully its' gun will be big and straight and its' intake cover won't come off. hmm... that just sounds wrong Mr. Lingerie Yeah, its the very front piece of the intakes. All my other 1/48s don't have this problem. This one just seems overly loose all around. Not VF-0A loose, but close. I just got my Max 1J in lastweek and he seems perfectly fine. Ah well. I'll go grab some clear nail polish and give that a shot and see if it tightens anything up. I'm more concerned about the boosters than the intakes at this point. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 As for the boosters - it is impossible for me to concieve how they can be loose... Are you sure you're plugging them in all the way? The groove is very very very deep and the die-cast metal latch on the booster which you shove into the groove isn't exactly something that will "come loose." Also - remember that both boosters have to be perfectly and fully inserted into the groove otherwise the Backpack will have undue stress put on it due to excess weight. Any pic of your boosters in the backpack? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 If you're talking about the intakes on the tip tops of the legs - that's another issue. All of my 1/48s have super tight intakes and no problems on that front. My YF-19 has one intake which likes to jump out and wander around. But then again, I also have crooked gunpod syndrome. My YF-19 was likely one of the very first ones to come off the assembly lines - I got it literally the same week it came out for the first time. I have to get a second one - hopefully its' gun will be big and straight and its' intake cover won't come off. hmm... that just sounds wrong Mr. Lingerie The YF-19 has been sort of re-issued, so even the standalone versions have the straight gunpods and fixed landing gear, iirc. If you're looking for a big gunpod though, you're looking in the wrong place. I think that relative to the Battroid lineart, the gunpod looks a little small! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatalist Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 As for the boosters - it is impossible for me to concieve how they can be loose... Are you sure you're plugging them in all the way? The groove is very very very deep and the die-cast metal latch on the booster which you shove into the groove isn't exactly something that will "come loose." Also - remember that both boosters have to be perfectly and fully inserted into the groove otherwise the Backpack will have undue stress put on it due to excess weight. Any pic of your boosters in the backpack? Pete Thanks for the insight. I've had my fair share of just about all Yamato has to offer. Including a ton of 1/48's. I am positive that I'm plugging it in all the way. The Max 1J that I just recently bought actually has a slightly hard time getting the pins etc. into the back packs. My Millia, they just slide right in. So my guess is either the internals were put together incorrectly, or maybe the die cast pins/bars whatever you wanna call them, dont have enough die cast. Basically it just seems like there's too much room, and therefore dont attach snug like all my other 1/48 valks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I've had my fair share of just about all Yamato has to offer. Including a ton of 1/48's. I am positive that I'm plugging it in all the way. The Max 1J that I just recently bought actually has a slightly hard time getting the pins etc. into the back packs. My Millia, they just slide right in. So my guess is either the internals were put together incorrectly, or maybe the die cast pins/bars whatever you wanna call them, dont have enough die cast. Basically it just seems like there's too much room, and therefore dont attach snug like all my other 1/48 valks. Hm... Well, I only have 1 Super/Strike pack (the Stealth one) in the 1/48 scale - as well as the strike "boosters" from the GBP armor - neither have any trouble going into any of my 4 1/48s... anyways - a picture would help. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatalist Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I'm not sure a pic would help, as it would just appear to look normal. Video maybe, which if I can get around to actually making one, I'll upload it to youtube or something. Otherwise, the nailpolish is a good way to "tighten" things up per se? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpchi Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Got myself a new 1/48 Focker VF-1S, but has a cracked front shoulder hinge. Not the one that connects to the arms, but the one that connects to the chest panel. Both shoulders are a bit too loose and need to be fixed. Also got myself a new 1/48 GBP-1S Urban Camo set. While the armor is really cool, the right leg right panel keeps popping off and can't close up completely. Connection is way too loose. Yellow paint on the chest has a bunch of 'dust' mixed into the paint, creating a lot of tiny bumps. Some stress marks in varous inner panels too. While I admire their artistry on making some pretty valks, I have yet to buy a Yamato valk with zero issues... really can't see how many of you guys still sworn by its quality and durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have the same problem with the right leg panel of my 1/48 GBP-1 VF-1J TV Hikaru armor - but it is fixable - that is to say, I managed to get it to stop popping off. You just have to accept that it will not close completely. Maybe one day I'll have a look see at why there is a minor gap - but there it is... it's not that big a deal. As for the 1/48 shoulder being cracked ....to my mind this is the first time in several years that anyone has reported that major a problem with a 1/48. I have only four 1/48s but all of them are solid, perfect and QC free. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpchi Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have the same problem with the right leg panel of my 1/48 GBP-1 VF-1J TV Hikaru armor - but it is fixable - that is to say, I managed to get it to stop popping off. You just have to accept that it will not close completely. Maybe one day I'll have a look see at why there is a minor gap - but there it is... it's not that big a deal. As for the 1/48 shoulder being cracked ....to my mind this is the first time in several years that anyone has reported that major a problem with a 1/48. I have only four 1/48s but all of them are solid, perfect and QC free. Pete Thanks for the info. My original color GBP don't seem to have this issue however on the 1J Hikaru. The original GBP has some loose groin pieces instead. But the legs were fine. Though I managed to use super glue to thicken the round peg of the loose panel on the Urban Camo armor, and now it sits much tighter. But like you said, there is a gap. As of the hinge of the new 1S Focker, I'll leave it for now. Doesn't seem the chest would fall apart because of it. Or I'll superglue it to keep it from worsening later on if necessary. I have a few 1/48 too. But this is the first one to have cracked hinge, while others have other issues. Haha, 'yamatoed' again I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Thanks for the insight. I've had my fair share of just about all Yamato has to offer. Including a ton of 1/48's. I am positive that I'm plugging it in all the way. The Max 1J that I just recently bought actually has a slightly hard time getting the pins etc. into the back packs. My Millia, they just slide right in. So my guess is either the internals were put together incorrectly, or maybe the die cast pins/bars whatever you wanna call them, dont have enough die cast. Basically it just seems like there's too much room, and therefore dont attach snug like all my other 1/48 valks. Well, after 7 kids ya gotta expect she's gonna be kinda loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 On a more serious note, I spoke to Yamato today and they confirm they will be changing to a smaller diameter shoulder pin on the next V2 1/60 VF-1 release after the VF-1D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 On a more serious note, I spoke to Yamato today and they confirm they will be changing to a smaller diameter shoulder pin on the next V2 1/60 VF-1 release after the VF-1D. great news! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 On a more serious note, I spoke to Yamato today and they confirm they will be changing to a smaller diameter shoulder pin on the next V2 1/60 VF-1 release after the VF-1D. "AFTER?" the VF-1D? I just hope that doesn't mean all of my VF-1Ds are going to have their arms fall off to prove the point Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foblander Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 awesome news hopefully we can get our hands on some replacements then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 On a more serious note, I spoke to Yamato today and they confirm they will be changing to a smaller diameter shoulder pin on the next V2 1/60 VF-1 release after the VF-1D. Sweet! Thanks alot Graham, guess I will be waiting for the VF-1D re-issue then. BTW, Any news about the Macross logo colour change for the VF-11B? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cent Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 The VF-11 Thread seems to have confirmed a color change for the logo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuinJester Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Does anyone have any suggestions for or experience with tightening hips on the SV-51? If it's feasible (AKA stuff not glued together) I don't have a problem dismantling my Nora, but ever since I got her she's been really loose in legs (no jokes, please ) and she's gotten much worse since then to the point where she wont stand on a slick surface without trying to do the splits. The main bugaboo seems to be the sliding mechanism that allows the hips to move in and out from the body; there's basically no friction at all there. If that was at least a bit tight I could press the hips into the body and they wouldn't move so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 The main bugaboo seems to be the sliding mechanism that allows the hips to move in and out from the body; there's basically no friction at all there. If that was at least a bit tight I could press the hips into the body and they wouldn't move so much.You could wrap small shreds of paper around the joints and put the hip joints back in. The paper acts as a cusion providing more tension. I don't know if it will work but it did work on tightening up some of the ball joints on my 1/48 1S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Valkyrie Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 There are some missing parts that I require for my two VF-1J 1/60 ver. 01, so what are the best or the suitable parts (other brand) for them : 1- Hands. 2- Canopy windshield. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Valkyrie Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Any I found these two manipulators, IMO I think they fit : http://www.hlj.com/product/BCL2760 http://www.hlj.com/product/BCL2761 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angel Leader Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) I broke my 1/48 DYRL Hikaru Ichijyo back in 2004 and I was never able to get a hold of a new BP-8 piece. Can direct me someone who is selling recasts of it? Much appreciated. Edited April 28, 2009 by Angel Leader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eriku Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I'm not sure if anyone is currently doing recasts of that part, but you can get the actual part from Yamato through OverDrive: http://www.over-drive-inc.com/macross_parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Focker Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Okay I might be getting my first VF-1 1/60 v2 next month. I've been hearing about this broken shoulder problem. Is there any specific models more prone to this that I should avoid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) avoid the Roy Focker, Roy Focker. but seriously, just get anything after the 1D, they all have the new smaller diameter pin for the shoulder hinge. although the 1D seems to be fine, no reported breakages yet. Edited April 30, 2009 by m0n5t3r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Okay I might be getting my first VF-1 1/60 v2 next month. I've been hearing about this broken shoulder problem. Is there any specific models more prone to this that I should avoid?Just to be safe, avoid everything that was released before the Max valks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Focker Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 That sorta sucks I was thinking about Hikaru's VF-1J or VF-1D. Going to at least be $100 with shipping. I'm fine with an occasional stress mark appearing after a lot of use. I don't want to encounter these serious cracks in seeing in some pics. I'll wait for the 50% sales before I buy one these prefixed model. I'll get one of the fixed models and a destroid instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpchi Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 ARRRRRG! YAMATOED!!! The right elbow swivel disc of my 1/48 VF-1A Max TV just shattered! Just like my VF-1S Hikaru a few months ago. And this one is brand new too, not a 5 year-old figure. The disc shattered from the stem its on into 3 chunks, dismembering the lower right arm at the elbow. Can believe the plastic is so 'tofu-like' that occasional posing on the gun arm for a few weeks can cause it to break. I've only transform the thing like 3 times. This is getting real stupid... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eriku Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 ARRRRRG! YAMATOED!!! The right elbow swivel disc of my 1/48 VF-1A Max TV just shattered! Just like my VF-1S Hikaru a few months ago. And this one is brand new too, not a 5 year-old figure. The disc shattered from the stem its on into 3 chunks, dismembering the lower right arm at the elbow. Can believe the plastic is so 'tofu-like' that occasional posing on the gun arm for a few weeks can cause it to break. I've only transform the thing like 3 times. This is getting real stupid... Ooooh...ouch. Considering that is a limited edition version, I wonder if you'll be able to get a replacement arm through Over-Drive? Or does Yamato make spare parts as needed? In any case, that really sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maximilian_jenius Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 hi I have a question about the YF-21 1/60 Yamato. when I transform the YF into fighter mode I can't make that knees don't touch them, so I can't make the chest plate place good. could any one guide me with some photos to know how to place the legs and knees in the right form? thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Sigh, major crack in right thigh of YF-21, very near metal hip-joint. Just like someone else had, but I can't find the pic of theirs. YF-21 plastic seems to respond well to Plastruct, will see how it holds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Sigh, major crack in right thigh of YF-21, very near metal hip-joint. Just like someone else had, but I can't find the pic of theirs. YF-21 plastic seems to respond well to Plastruct, will see how it holds. like this: not mine, btw... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 No, the pic I'm thinking of looks just like mine IIRC, and is worse. We're talking a gap, not just stress/hairline fracture. It's around the bottom edge of the hip joint, very near the black stripe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 That sorta sucks I was thinking about Hikaru's VF-1J or VF-1D Then get them. I have two Hikaru 1Js and two 1Ds and both of them are fine. Although I did snap off the little widget/plug thingy on the back side of the exhaust port/upper leg that fits into the little slot thingy when in fighter mode on one of the 1Ds - but that was absolutely my fault for applying to much pressure, and besides, even without the little thing, the figure looks and transforms and holds together just fine. I also have two Roy Fockers, Roy Focker -and one of them is perfect and the other has a hair-line fracture in the shoulder that is epoxied and has bee perfectly fine for about half a year now. When buying Yamato Valkyrie, think of it like going on a date with a beautiful woman. Sometimes, you spend tons of money and go home alone at night. Sometimes, you spend tons of money and go home with the girl at night You never know which scenario is going to play out - but if the girl is pretty enough, you must make the attempt! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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