What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.

[1994cobra]

Does anyone have an extra BP-9? I need one for my Hik 1-S..

Thanks!! Hopefully someone has one...

Edit:

thanks Haterist.. Sorry I did not reply sooner..

Edited February 2, 2006 by 1994cobra

[Hurin]

Howdy All,

There has been a lot of people mentioning how delicate the "bar" piece is inside the chest-piece of the 1/48 GBP-1S armor set.

Basically, as the two red missile-covers butterfly out, they pull on a bar inside the chest piece that then pushes the two chest missile panels out so that they aren't as recessed. It's not exactly perfect and you sometimes need to wiggles things to get the panels to protrude as much as they should.

Anyways, while pushing the missiles into the two "missile panels" in the chest, the only thing supporting the panels is that platic bar. And, well, those missles can be pretty hard to get into their holes. So, some people (including me) have been getting impatient and pushing too hard, thus snapping that little plastic bar!

The good news is that, unlike the infamous BP8 backpack joint, this is a part that appears to glue pretty well. Once the missiles are actually in the panels, there shouldn't be a need to apply excessive amounts of pressure to the glued piece again. It just gently nudges those hinged missile panels forward.

Here's the chest piece all disassembled (which is very easy to do. Just four screws and it pulls apart). Note that I have removed the missile panel from the left side (valkyrie's left). The missile panel on the rigth is still there (the white dots are the butt end of the missles poking through the panel) and you can see where the bar presses up against it which will cause them to shift forward when the bar is tugged on by the red doors (not visible). The red arrow marks where the bar had broken. There is now just a white fracture line where I glued it.

I just used "super glue" that I ran down and got at the 24-hour pharmacy. It took about ten minutes to repair. And after only five minutes of curing, I was able to open the chest plate doors and the missiles slid forward as they're supposed to do.

All in all, it's a poor design, but not a total show-stopper since it's easily glued and even if it weren't possible to do so, you could always just pull the panel forward by hand.

Best Regards,

H

[wolfx]

Thanks again Hurin for the pictures. Ok guys, i know this has been done over and over again and i read the posts few pages back about the rubber ring on the leg joint.

The day of truth has come for me. My rubber is leaking (that sounds wrong ), but not that noticeable yet. The leg joint has become loose IE: it won't stay in position if i let go of the leg (with FPs) while holding the body with my other hand. Could the looseness be due to the rubber which isn't exactly out yet, but you could see bits of it through the hole?

Ok....i tried nudging the leg abit but it won't budge. I feel VERY VERY VERY afraid of pulling it out of the socket. Guess i need abit more assurances on how to do this. Should i wiggle it out, or try to pull it out in as 90 degrees an angle as possible? *(&!)@!*!@)! pulling the leg out is #@(*)(@#* scary!!

I'll take photos when I finally get it out....when i get back my gonads.

[ghostryder]

Thanks again Hurin for the pictures. Ok guys, i know this has been done over and over again and i read the posts few pages back about the rubber ring on the leg joint.

The day of truth has come for me. My rubber is leaking (that sounds wrong  ), but not that noticeable yet. The leg joint has become loose IE: it won't stay in position if i let go of the leg (with FPs) while holding the body with my other hand. Could the looseness be due to the rubber which isn't exactly out yet, but you could see bits of it through the hole?

Ok....i tried nudging the leg abit but it won't budge. I feel VERY VERY VERY afraid of pulling it out of the socket. Guess i need abit more assurances on how to do this. Should i wiggle it out, or try to pull it out in as 90 degrees an angle as possible? *(&!)@!*!@)! pulling the leg out is #@(*)(@#* scary!!

I'll take photos when I finally get it out....when i get back my gonads. 

368321[/snapback]

Just pull it out at 90 deg. firmly, but cautiously. Take Bruce Lee's 1" punch approach - lots of force over a short distance. You don't want to crack the surrounding plastic by wiggling too much. Just make sure your GF/wife isn't standing nearby when the leg comes free - WACK!

FWIW, my Roy was a b1tch to pull the legs off, but my new Hikkie's legs weren't hard at all.

[Dante74]

Look here Bleedin' rubber thread

As you can see I've had the same problem with my CF.

The leg came off quite easily in my case.

Good luck with the operation!

[Black Valkyrie]

I just broke my 1/60 CF joint that holds the entire arm to the back, I just wanted to loosen the arm a bit from the shoulder and it broke off (cheap platsic). I tried super glue it didn`t work, also tried to use a metal pin it didn`t work either.

Edited March 6, 2006 by Black Valkyrie

[Ghettohawk]

I just recieved a re-release 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A from HLJ, And the 2 tabs for securing the back hatch are missing.

Has anyone else had problems with the new Yamato releases?

[SkyDancer]

Hey I got three 1/48’s. On the Hikaru there is a slight gap on the left side of the chest plate/air intake, a crack on the cockpit window (very small but it annoys me when I look at it with a magnifying glass) and also my gun pod seems to hang out limply like a flaccid member from the bottom when in fighter mode. On my Mass production one of the plastic bolt looking things just popped out of the right leg I tried to push it back in but it ended up being lop sided with one side out further then the other. My fiancée thought I was performing some kind of odd masturbation ritual as I just kept pushing this bastard thing in for about half an hour (women are so funny). I ended giving up and just left the bastard half hanging out. Haven’t seen any thing wrong with the red one yet, but I made sure it was in a very damage prone place to be on the safe side.

I made sure when setting up my toys that their defects were apparent and clearly visible so as to remind me that there are more frustrating things then finishing uni assignments and that blowing my money on toys is a waste of money.

After a while I realised that a Yamato is like a women. You should spend more time admiring her and welcoming the joy and memories that she brings because she represents something diverse and beautiful, disregard her defects cause that’s what makes her unique and some times you should just leave her alone and reflect on what you’re own defects are before making rash and costly decisions. Understand that she suffers from entropy just like you and will change over time. In the end you shall understand that despite her problems she is well worth the time, money and effort spent.

[bryan_f_davis@yahoo.com]

After a while I realised that a Yamato is like a women. You should spend more time admiring her and welcoming the joy and memories that she brings because she represents something diverse and beautiful, disregard her defects cause that’s what makes her unique and some times you should just leave her alone and reflect on what you’re own defects are before making rash and costly decisions. Understand that she suffers from entropy just like you and will change over time. In the end you shall understand that despite her problems she is well worth the time, money and effort spent.

386817[/snapback]

Damn CF. You just nailed it.

[bryan_f_davis@yahoo.com]

Howdy All,

There has been a lot of people mentioning how delicate the "bar" piece is inside the chest-piece of the 1/48 GBP-1S armor set.

Basically, as the two red missile-covers butterfly out, they pull on a bar inside the chest piece that then pushes the two chest missile panels out so that they aren't as recessed.  It's not exactly perfect and you sometimes need to wiggles things to get the panels to protrude as much as they should.

Anyways, while pushing the missiles into the two "missile panels" in the chest, the only thing supporting the panels is that platic bar.  And, well, those missles can be pretty hard to get into their holes.  So, some people (including me) have been getting impatient and pushing too hard, thus snapping that little plastic bar!

The good news is that, unlike the infamous BP8 backpack joint, this is a part that appears to glue pretty well.  Once the missiles are actually in the panels, there shouldn't be a need to apply excessive amounts of pressure to the glued piece again.  It just gently nudges those hinged missile panels forward.

Here's the chest piece all disassembled (which is very easy to do.  Just four screws and it pulls apart).  Note that I have removed the missile panel from the left side (valkyrie's left).  The missile panel on the rigth is still there (the white dots are the butt end of the missles poking through the panel) and you can see where the bar presses up against it which will cause them to shift forward when the bar is tugged on by the red doors (not visible).  The red arrow marks where the bar had broken.  There is now just a white fracture line where I glued it.

I just used "super glue" that I ran down and got at the 24-hour pharmacy.  It took about ten minutes to repair.  And after only five minutes of curing, I was able to open the chest plate doors and the missiles slid forward as they're supposed to do.

All in all, it's a poor design, but not a total show-stopper since it's easily glued and even if it weren't possible to do so, you could always just pull the panel forward by hand.

Best Regards,

H

368044[/snapback]

I own three of these. The first one did this to me, too. I didn't take a chance with the other 2! I took them apart, added the missiles, and put it back together.

Superglue didn't hold with mine. I had to use a Compound Proxy. Worked like a charm. I think its stronger now than when I first got it.

SometimeS, Yamato, don't be afraid to use something called METAL.

Although this didn't happen to me (thank God), my buddy's back pack broke when applying the Strike parts. If you look at that tiny plastic piece that attaches the back to the valk, it's an accident begging to happen. Another instance when metal should have been used.

Ah, well. I love my 1/48's. In all honesty, if you are careful, they should be okay. They are one million times better than the floppy legged, poorly painted, crappy detail, poorly articulated, cheap part, no QC, Piece of Crap Toynami Masterpiece. My god, those are the one of the poorest toys ever made. The Alpha fighters were a better, but a far cry from a Masterpiece.

And I have turned into a negative ball of energy. I am leaving now.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

Maybe they should make the holes bigger, and make the base of the missiles magnetic so you don't have to squeeze them in?

[gian7675]

I got a 1/48 VF-1s from a Macross Fan and something's wrong with the fighter mode.

When I transform it in fighter mode, the left intake won't fit into the slot allotted to it so what happens is that there's a gap between the intake and the upper body part.

From what I can determine, it seems that the little nocth seems to be blocking the entry of the intake to fit into the slot. I know that this notch is important to keep the intake from falling out in Valk mode but in this case, it seems to be preventing the intake from entering the slot.

Shoud I cut the small notch?

[Die, Alien Scum!]

I got a 1/48 VF-1s from a Macross Fan and something's wrong with the fighter mode.

When I transform it in fighter mode, the left intake won't fit into the slot allotted to it so what happens is that there's a gap between the intake and the upper body part.

From what I can determine, it seems that the little nocth seems to be blocking the entry of the intake to fit into the slot. I know that this notch is important to keep the intake from falling out in Valk mode but in this case, it seems to be preventing the intake from entering the slot.

Shoud I cut the small notch?

396884[/snapback]

Can you post a pic? That would probably help us figure out what exactly is going on. I would definitely recommend not cutting anything until we can see the problem.

[ghostryder]

I got a 1/48 VF-1s from a Macross Fan and something's wrong with the fighter mode.

When I transform it in fighter mode, the left intake won't fit into the slot allotted to it so what happens is that there's a gap between the intake and the upper body part.

From what I can determine, it seems that the little nocth seems to be blocking the entry of the intake to fit into the slot. I know that this notch is important to keep the intake from falling out in Valk mode but in this case, it seems to be preventing the intake from entering the slot.

Shoud I cut the small notch?

396884[/snapback]

Try rotating the intake around the hip ball socket a bit until intake is parallel with the upper fuselage - sounds like you may need to rotate the intake piece clockwise a bit (looking from the front of the fighter), so that the notch snaps into place. This is just a guess, and a picture would be most helpful.

Edited May 5, 2006 by ghostryder

[gian7675]

I got a 1/48 VF-1s from a Macross Fan and something's wrong with the fighter mode.

When I transform it in fighter mode, the left intake won't fit into the slot allotted to it so what happens is that there's a gap between the intake and the upper body part.

From what I can determine, it seems that the little nocth seems to be blocking the entry of the intake to fit into the slot. I know that this notch is important to keep the intake from falling out in Valk mode but in this case, it seems to be preventing the intake from entering the slot.

Shoud I cut the small notch?

396884[/snapback]

Try rotating the intake around the hip ball socket a bit until intake is parallel with the upper fuselage - sounds like you may need to rotate the intake piece clockwise a bit (looking from the front of the fighter), so that the notch snaps into place. This is just a guess, and a picture would be most helpful.

396942[/snapback]

Thanks for the tip! I'll try it later but I think it won't work. I tried everything and it still won't slide thru. I'll also post a pic later.

[UN Spacy]

I'm suprised more VF-0 topics aren't showing up. Hehehehe.

[/knockonwood]

[realdeal]

Hey guys! I was wondering if you can help me out. The gunpod on my 1/48 was put together wrong, the back part of the gunpod that retracts was put in upside down. I was thinking I might just try and pull the sucker apart but I can't figure out how its connected so I was afraid I was going to break it. Do you guys know a solution? Thanks for helping!

[David Hingtgen]

Mine has a similar problem--the back end is assembled so poorly there's a large gap and it's misaligned so it's very difficult to extend/collapse---but it's so tightly (glued?) together I can't adjust it at all.

[nightmareB4macross]

Mine has a similar problem--the back end is assembled so poorly there\'s a large gap and it\'s misaligned so it\'s very difficult to extend/collapse---but it\'s so tightly (glued?) together I can\'t adjust it at all.

398142[/snapback]

You actually have to take apart the gunpod and file down the slider inside the gunpod. Or file the slots where the slider resides.

[David Hingtgen]

I can't take it apart--even prying with a screwdriver only succeeded in gouging it. If it was assembled properly, that could be an option. But it's mis-assembled, very strongly.

[nightmareB4macross]

I can\'t take it apart--even prying with a screwdriver only succeeded in gouging it.  If it was assembled properly, that could be an option.  But it\'s mis-assembled, very strongly.

398148[/snapback]

You have to wedge an exacto knife between the two parts of the outer shell of the gunpod and slowly work your away around the entire piece. When the gunpod is completely apart you will have EIGHT pieces in total. You als have to be extremely care full when prying open the barrel, as the gun tip shrouds around both barrel halves and is glued together. I took me almost two days to take one apart just because I was patient enough not to break the parts.

Do this slowly and carefully or you WILL break it.

I actually have recasted this gun in the past and looks awesome. Come to think of it, I think I will make the LV colored gunpod available.

[1 VF-1 2NV]

I can\'t take it apart--even prying with a screwdriver only succeeded in gouging it.  If it was assembled properly, that could be an option.  But it\'s mis-assembled, very strongly.

398148[/snapback]

You have to wedge an exacto knife between the two parts of the outer shell of the gunpod and slowly work your away around the entire piece. When the gunpod is completely apart you will have EIGHT pieces in total. You als have to be extremely care full when prying open the barrel, as the gun tip shrouds around both barrel halves and is glued together. I took me almost two days to take one apart just because I was patient enough not to break the parts.

Do this slowly and carefully or you WILL break it.

I actually have recasted this gun in the past and looks awesome. Come to think of it, I think I will make the LV colored gunpod available.

398151[/snapback]

Hey Alex, can you recast a vf-1s head in stealth colors?

[nightmareB4macross]

I can\\\'t take it apart--even prying with a screwdriver only succeeded in gouging it.  If it was assembled properly, that could be an option.  But it\\\'s mis-assembled, very strongly.

398148[/snapback]

You have to wedge an exacto knife between the two parts of the outer shell of the gunpod and slowly work your away around the entire piece. When the gunpod is completely apart you will have EIGHT pieces in total. You als have to be extremely care full when prying open the barrel, as the gun tip shrouds around both barrel halves and is glued together. I took me almost two days to take one apart just because I was patient enough not to break the parts.

Do this slowly and carefully or you WILL break it.

I actually have recasted this gun in the past and looks awesome. Come to think of it, I think I will make the LV colored gunpod available.

398151[/snapback]

Hey Alex, can you recast a vf-1s head in stealth colors?

398159[/snapback]

I will hopefully be able to have all the VF-1 head variations in all colors, real soon. I am currently working on the molds. I will post an interest thead for these later this week.

Colors Available: Valk White, Max Blue, Milia Red, CF Brown, Stealth, LV, LV2...

Variations: A, S, J

Imagine the possibillities............

[realdeal]

I can\'t take it apart--even prying with a screwdriver only succeeded in gouging it.  If it was assembled properly, that could be an option.  But it\'s mis-assembled, very strongly.

398148[/snapback]

You have to wedge an exacto knife between the two parts of the outer shell of the gunpod and slowly work your away around the entire piece. When the gunpod is completely apart you will have EIGHT pieces in total. You als have to be extremely care full when prying open the barrel, as the gun tip shrouds around both barrel halves and is glued together. I took me almost two days to take one apart just because I was patient enough not to break the parts.

Do this slowly and carefully or you WILL break it.

I actually have recasted this gun in the past and looks awesome. Come to think of it, I think I will make the LV colored gunpod available.

398151[/snapback]

Thanks for the response. I'll give it a try

[David Hingtgen]

I think the edges of the pieces would be heavily gouged and look horrible if I tried that, even if I did it without breaking it. More likely, I'd break more xacto blades than I already have trying to get it apart.

[nightmareB4macross]

I think the edges of the pieces would be heavily gouged and look horrible if I tried that, even if I did it without breaking it.  More likely, I'd break more xacto blades than I already have trying to get it apart.

398239[/snapback]

If I can do so can you. It just takes time and patience. Just go along the parting line of both halves and you're done. The glue just requires a bit of prying before it lets go and always you to split the gun pod.

Edited May 10, 2006 by nightmareB4macross

[David Hingtgen]

Are there pins/tabs somewhere? Or is it just one big internal lip? I only need to split the rear part, the majority of the gunpod is fine.

[David Hingtgen]

Well I was encouraged and so tried again, and was successful. Used a screwdriver at what actually seemed to be the "least likely to work" location and it popped apart pretty easily. Now I just have to decide if I'm going to paint the feet metallic...

[realdeal]

Well I was encouraged and so tried again, and was successful.  Used a screwdriver at what actually seemed to be the "least likely to work" location and it popped apart pretty easily.  Now I just have to decide if I'm going to paint the feet metallic...

398435[/snapback]

Glad to hear you were successful. I won't try until the weekend so wish me luck!

[one_klump]

Just picked up a Yamato VF-0S and I love it.

However, there is a catch that stops e from displaying it in Battroid or Gerwalk mode.

The Shoulder joint on the right arm is so lose, it can't support its own weight, much less the weight of a gunpod.

Any ideas on potential fixes?

[GrimlockCW]

Just picked up a Yamato VF-0S and I love it.

However, there is a catch that stops e from displaying it in Battroid or Gerwalk mode.

The Shoulder joint on the right arm is so lose, it can't support its own weight, much less the weight of a gunpod.

Any ideas on potential fixes?

418459[/snapback]

the shoulder itself or the twisting joint between the shoulder/elbow?

mines loose at that one, EXTREMELY loose, but i read it was a production flaw in this version :/

lest ya mean the shoulder joint that swivels out for the arms switching from fighter to gerwalk/battoid, mines loose there to, and i kinda wished it had a catch like the 1/48 VF1's till i realized it allows for more posing options, though it looks odd from top down or side views :/

mine also came with the hole in the gunpods handle to small to fit onto the pegs of the arms

simple file trick there...

but the handles also a bit loose when locked up..

i could nitpick all day, but i still love this thing and think its abseloutly AWSOME

Edited July 23, 2006 by GrimlockCW

[one_klump]

The loose joint is the actual ball and socket joint that holds the arm onto the shoulder.

Everything else is fine though. Besides the amazing exploding hips feature in the VF-11, this is my first issue with a Yamato.

[kensei]

I actually used superglue, I took the shoulder apart and there were some pieces (2) enveloping the shoulder joint, I glued the outside then let it dry. When i put the shoulder back together there was more tension. Plently enough to hold a gunpod.

I recommend the safest way recommended by Dannychoo and can also be used on things like GFF or MSiA Gundam figures, take apart the shoulder and apply a blob of PVC (Wood Glue) to the joint directly. It's starts of white, but dries to clear and you can peel it off whenever you want and it won't harm the plastic.

[malcos]

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I bought a 1/48 Yamato VF-1S and the Super/Strike parts to go with it, and I've been experiencing a problem, mostly with the Backpack support clip. It doesn't seem to want to attach to both the main body and the backpack part at the same time, and this prevents me from attaching the Super/Strike parts in Battroid mode, as i'm terrified it'll be too heavy and fall over (breaking a £150 toy = ). So I was wondering if anyone else experienced a similar problem and what possible solutions I could apply.

Thanks in advance,

Malcos.

[kensei]

Check this link. http://www.macrossnexus.com/index.php?opti...=188&Itemid=399